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Greenhouse  Management. 

A  Manual  for  Florists  and  Flower  Lovers 

ON   THE 

Forcing  of  Flowers,  Vegetables  and  Fruits 

IN 

GREENHOUSES, 

AND  THE 

Propagation  and  Care  of  House  Plants. 

BY 

L.  R.  TAFT 

professor  of  fforiicidture  and  Landscape  Gardening,  Michigan  Agricultural 
College,  and  author  of  "Greenhouse  Construction." 


ILLUSTRATED 


NEW  YORK 

ORANGE  JUDD  COMPANY 

1904 


Copyright.  1898, 
By  orange  JUDD  COMPANY 


PREFACE 


The  florist  finds  that  in  his  profession  changes  are 
continually  taking  place,  and  if  he  would  succeed  he 
must  keep  up  with  the  procession.  Not  only  are  new 
and  improved  methods  continually  being  brought  into 
use,  but  the  plants  that  he  grows  change  from  year  to 
year.  A  few  years  ago  camellias,  tuberoses  and  bouvar- 
dias  were  among  tlie  plants  that  were  most  grown,  but 
now,  if  grown  at  all,  they  have  but  a  small  place.  Not 
only  does  Fashion  change  the  classes  of  plants  that  are 
grown,  but  from  year  to  year  the  varieties  change,  and 
the  methods  of  culture  improve. 

To  inform  himself  as  to  the  methods  that  have 
been  found  valuable  by  his  competitors,  one  can,  to  be 
sure,  look  to  the  horticultural  periodicals,  which  con- 
tain much  valuable  information,  but  the  books  to  which 
he  can  go  for  advice  are  few  and  most  of  them  are  out 
of  date.  To  supply  a  source  from  which  information  as 
to  the  methods  used  by  the  more  successful  florists  can 
be  drawn,  this  book  has  been  prepared.  As  originally 
written  it  consisted  of  about  ten  chapters,  which  were 
intended  as  a  sort  of  appendix  to  Greenhouse  Construc- 
tion, but  the  subject  of  Greenhouse  Management  was 
deemed  worthy  of  a  separate  volume,  and  accordingly 
the  copy  was  withdrawn  from  the  printer  and  consid- 
erably added  to. 

An  attempt  has  been  made  in  this  booK  to  give  to 
florists  an  insight  into  the  methods  that  are  to-day  being 
used  by  their  intelligent  and  successful  brethren.  In 
pearly  every  case  they  have  been  tried  by  the  author,  or 


iv  GKEEXnOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

he  has  seen  the  results  of  then-  use  in  numerous  in- 
stances, so  that  they  can  be  used  without  liesitation.  It 
is  hoped  that  the  information  as  to  the  best  methods  of 
forcing  yegetables  will  be  of  especial  value,  as  but  little 
attention  has  been  given  that  industry,  which  is  one 
that  is  rapidly  increasing  in  importance.  •  Although 
this  subject  has  perhaps  received  less  space  than  it  really 
deserves,  we  have  endeavored  to  present  it  in  a  clear  and 
concise  form  tliat  can  be  followed  and  understood  by 
anyone. 

In  treating  the  standard  crops  of  the  commercial 
florist,  such  as  the  rose,  carnation,  violet  and  chrysan- 
themum, we  have  touched  upon  the  time  and  method  of 
cultivation  and  the  general  care  recpiired  in  growing 
them,  but  have  not  deemed  it  worth  while  to  go  into 
lengtliy  descriptions  of  varieties,  as  they  change  from 
year  to  year ;  the  lists  given,  however,  are  those  that  arc 
to-day  deemed  most  valuable. 

Florists  are  more  and  more,  each  year,  troubled  ])y 
injurious  insects  and  fungi.  For  many  of  them  wc  liave 
pointed  out  the  treatment,  and  have  added  a  list  of  rem- 
edies which  includes  those  that  are  considered  most 
reliable.  In  the  chapters  devoted  to  the  care  of  house 
plants,  we  have  indicated  the  methods  of  growing  and 
caring  for  the  plants  that  are  commonly  grown  in  the 
house. 

Many  of  the  illustrations  arc  from  drawings  and 
photographs  made  under  the  direction  of  the  author, 
and  for  the  others  we  are  indebted  to  the  kindness  of 
friends.  Several  were  furnished  by  the  publishers  of 
the  American  Agriculturist,  while  most  of  the  half 
tones  of  the  specimen  pots,  and  of  specimen  blooms,  as 
well  as  Figs.  47,  91  and  92,  were  supplied  by  the  pub- 
lishers of  TJte  Plorisfs  Exchavqe  and  American  Gar- 
dening. We  are  also  indebted  to  Gardening  and  The 
American  Florist,     Many  of  the  cuts  illustrating  the 


PREFACE.  7 

interiors  of  greenhouses  used  for  various  crops,  as  well 
as  the  cultural  methods  used,  were  supplied  by  various 
specialists.  Thus,  Mr.  Alex.  Montgomery  of  the  Waban 
conservatories,  Natick,  Mass.,  furnished  cuts  of  their 
rose  houses;  Fred  Dorner  &  Son,  Lafayette,  Inch,  and 
The  Cottage  Gardens,  Queens,  L.  I.,  carnations;  Pitcher 
&  Manda,  Short  Hills,  N.  J.,  and  E.  D.  Smith,  Adrian, 
Mich.,  chrysanthemums;  Fred  Boulon,  Sea  Cliff,  L.  I., 
Hitchiugs  &  Co.,  New  York,  and  Profs.  Galloway  and 
Dorsett,  Garrett  Park,  Md. ,  violets ;  J.  C.  Vaughan, 
Chicago,  111.,  J.  M.  Gasser,  Cleveland,  Ohio,  and  Gush- 
man  Gladiolus  Co.,  Euclid,  0.,  bulbs;  W.  H.  Elliott, 
Brighton,  Mass.,  asparagus  house;  and  Julius  Eoehrs, 
Carlton  Hill,  N.  J.,  miscellaneous  plants.  Acknowl- 
edgments are  also  due  for  the  use  of  cuts  and  for  help- 
ful suggestions  to  the  following  officers  of  experiment 
stations:  Prof.  L.  H.  Bailey,  Ithaca,  N.  Y.,  Prof.  S.  T. 
Maynard,  Amherst,  Mass.,  Prof.  W.  M.  Munson,  Orono, 
Me.,  Prof.  L.  F.  Kinney,  Kingston,  E.  I.,  Prof.  C.  S. 
Plumb,  Lafayette,  Ind.,  and  Prof.  E.  L.  "Watts,  Knox- 
ville,  Tenn.,  as  well  as  Prof.  B.  D.  Halsted  of  New  Jer- 
sey, for  the  article  on  Violet  Diseases,  and  Prof.  W.  J. 
Green,  "Wooster,  Ohio,  who  supplied  the  article  on 
Sub-irrigation. 

L.  E.  TAFT. 
Ageicxjltueal  CJollege,  Mich. 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


Page 
CHAPTER  L 
The  Forcing  of  Roses,       .         .         .      ■  ,         ,         .         .         1 

CHAPTER  n. 
The  Carnation, 26 

CHAPTER  in. 
The  Chrysanthemum,  ....•••        64 

CHAPTER  IV. 
The  Violet,  .........  77 

CHAPTER  V. 
Bulbs  and  their  Culture,         ......        88 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Tuberous  Begonias,       .......  103 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Orchid  Culture, .      116 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Azaleas, 131 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Calceolarias,  Cinerarias  and  Primulas,  ....      143 

CHAPTER  X. 

Ferns,  Smilax  and  Asparagus,       •         .         .         .         ,  163 

CHAPTER  XI. 
Palms,  Pandanus  and  Araucaria,       .....      162 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Drac^nas  and  Cordylines,    ......  168 

CHAPTER  Xm. 
Lettuce  Forcing,      ........      183 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
Cucumbers,  Tomatoes  and  Melons,         ....  198 

CHAPTER  XV. 
Mushroom  culture,  .         . 211 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
Asparagus  and  Rhubarb,       ......  226 

CHAPTER  XVIL 
Radishes,  Carrots,  Beets  and  Beans,         ....      230 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Grape  Growing  Under  Glass, 234 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Strawberry  Growing  under  glass 248 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Fruit  Trees  under  Glass, 263 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Management  of  House  Plants, 258 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS.  Vll 

P»ge 
CHAPTER  XXn. 
The  Growing  of  Bedding  plants 274 

CHAPTER   XXIII. 

Propagation  of  Plants  by  Seeds  and  Cuttings,         .         .      287 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Propagation  by  Layering,  Grafting  and  Budding,        .  300 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Insects  of  the  Greenhouse,      ......      308 

chapter  xxvi. 
Diseases  of  Greenhouse  Plants,  .....  324 

CHAPTER  XXVU. 

Insecticides  and  their  Preparation,        ....      351 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 
Fungicides,  their  Preparation  and  Use,       ...  356 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Soil,  Manures  and  watering, 360 

CHAPTER  XXX. 
FVEIr-COAL,  On.  ASD  GAB,         .  ...  .  •  •  37* 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Fig. 

1.  Pres.  Carnot  rose,  .... 

2.  House  of  Bridesmaid  roses, 

3.  AViie  trellis  for  roses,     .... 

4.  Hybrid  roses  pruned  and  tied  down,     . 

5.  Betl  of  hybrid  roses  in  bud,     .  .  . 

6.  Types  of  carnation  cuttings, 

7.  Carnation  bouse,  sliori  span  to  south, 

8.  Carnation  supports,  '.  .  .  . 

9.  Carnations  supported  by  eliicken  netting, 

10.  Carnations  supported  by  niesbes  of  cotton  twine, 

11.  Carnations  supported  by  wire  lathing, 

12.  Daybreak  carnation, 

13.  Mrs.  Geo.  M.  Bradt  carnation, 

14.  Chrysanthemums  trained  to  stakes,      .  . 

15.  Chrysanthemums  sujjpoi  ted  by  wire  and  twine, 

16.  Chrysanthemum  crown  bud, 

17.  Chrysanthemum  terminal  bud, 

18.  Chrysanthemum,  Eugene  Dailledouze, 

19.  Chrysantliemum,  iMayHower,  . 

20.  Chrysanthemum,  Mrs.  I'errin,       .  . 

21.  Chrysanthemum,  lora,   .... 

22.  Narrow  violet  house, 

23.  Hitchings  violet  house,  .... 

24.  Narrow  violet  house,  improved,  . 

25.  Single  violet.  Princess  de  Galles,      .  . 
20.  Box  of  Roman  liyaelnths,    .           .           . 

27.  Double  Dutch  hy.acinihs,  ... 

28.  Imi)roved  hyacinth  glass,   .  .  . 

29.  Single  early  tulips,  .... 

30.  Freesia  refracta  alba,  .  ,  . 

31.  LiliumHarrisii, 

.32.  Forcing  lily  of  the  valley,  .  . 

3.3.  Cyclamen  plant,    ..... 

34.  GhadiolusMay,  .... 

35.  House  of  tuberous  begonias,    .  .  . 
3G.  Single  tuberous  begonia,      .           .           . 

37.  Double  tuberous  begonia,        ... 

38.  Gloxinia, 

39.  House  of  gloxinias,  .... 

40.  Fancy  caladium,         .... 

viii 


Page 
13 

15 
20 
23 
25 
28 
33 
41 
43 
45 
47 
60 
52 
69 
CI 
64 
65 

73 
74 
75 
78 
79 
81 
87 
89 
91 
91 
92 
94 
90 
97 
1(10 
102 
104 
105 
106 
110 
111 
U4 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTKATIONS. 


IX 


FJg. 

41. 

42. 
43. 
44. 

45. 
4G. 
47. 
48. 
49. 
50. 
51. 
52. 
53. 
54. 
55. 
56. 
57. 


Orchids  in  bloom,  .  .  < 

Cypripedium  Spicerianum,  . 

Cattleya  triaiise,    ...  .  . 

Oi-chid  baskets,  .  ,  . 

Aeiides  Savageanum,     .  .  , 

Phalaenopsis  grandiflora,     .  . 

Potting  and  cribbing  orcliids, 
Azalea  in  compact  form,      .  . 

Azalea  with  open  head, . 
Hydrangea  Otaksa,    .  .  . 

Cytisus,         ..... 
Bench  of  lilacs,  .  .  . 

Kahnia  latifolia,    .  .  . 

Specimen  calceolaria,  .  . 

Cineraria  hybrida, 
Single  Chinese  primrose,     . 
Maehet  mignonette,        .  . 

Adiantum  Farleyense, 
Boston  fern,  •  .  . 

Asparagus  Sprengeri, 
Asparagus  house, . 

Fan  palm,  .... 

Dwarf  rattan  palm. 
Variegated  aspidistra. 

Group  of  aiithuriums  and  alocasiaS; 
Alocasia  metallica,     . 

Aglaonema  pictum,         .  . 

Even-span  lettuce  house,     . 

Lean-to  lettuce  house,    . 

Lettuce  pot  plant, 

Pol  plant  ready  for  market,    . 

Interior  of  lean-to  lettuce  house,. 

Lettuce  packed  for  local  market, 

Cucumber  house,  interior,  . 

English  forcing  cucumbers. 

Interior  of  tomato  forcing  house. 

Growing  mushrooms  on  greenhouse  benches. 

Crop  of  mushrooms  under  a  bench, 

Brick  spawn, 

French  nmshroom  spawn,  .  . 

New  musliroom  in  a  cold  frame, 

Black  Hamburg  grape,         .  . 

Grape  house  in  fruit. 

Eye  cutting  of  grape. 

Short  cutting  of  grape,   . 

Bench  of  strawberry  plants,  . 

The  crop  gathered,  .  . 

Fruiting  strawberry  plants,  . 

Pear  tree  in  pot,    .  .  . 

Plum  tree  in  fruit,       .  .  . 

A  window  garden,  ,  . 

A  well  arranged  window  box,      . 


LIST    OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Flgr. 

93.  Eplphyllum  tnincatum, 

94.  A  collection  of  cacti  and  aloes, 

95.  A  house  of  pedijiiee  violets,    • 

96.  Showing  condition  of  stem  for  cuttings, 

97.  Soft  cutting  of  c-oleus,    . 

98.  Geranium  cutting, 

99.  Cutting  of  Arbor  Vitse,   . 

100.  Long  cutting  of  grape, 

101.  Tongue  or  whip  grafting, 

102.  Cleft  grafting,  . 

103.  Side  grafting, 

104.  Budding,. 

105.  Wingless  female  aphis, 

106.  Winged  male  aphis,    . 

107.  Fuller's  rose  beetle, 

108.  Red  spider, 

109.  Thrips, 

110.  Mealy  bug, 

111.  Fumigation  of  a  violet  house, 

112.  Rose  spot, 

113.  Spores  of  black  spot, 

114.  Carnation  rust, 

115.  Spores  of  carnation  rust, 

116.  Spot  disease  of  carnations, 

117.  Effect  of  spot  on  carnations, 

118.  Anthracnose  of  carnations, 

119.  Fairy  ring  spot  of  carnation, 

120.  Spores  of  fairy  ring  spot 

121.  Carnation  leaf  mold, 

122.  Botrytis  or  rot  of  carnations, 

123.  Bacteriosis  of  carnations, 

124.  Violet  leaf  spot, 

125.  Bermuda  lily  disease,     . 

126.  Leaf  blight  of  mignonette, 

127.  The  Kinney  pump, 

128.  Crude  oil  burner,        . 


Page 

285 
286 
292 
293 
294 
296 
298 
299 
302 
303 
304 


311 
312 
313 
314 
322 
324 
325 


333 
334 


343 

346 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  FORCING  OF  ROSES. 

While  other  departments  of  floriculture  have  made 
wonderful  progress  during  the  past  ten  years,  in  none  of 
them  has  it  been  as  great  as  in  the  winter  forcing  of 
roses,  and  to-day  hundreds  of  large  establishments  are 
almost  entirely  devoted  to  this  work,  while  every  small 
florist  has  his  rose  house,  and  the  sale  of  cut  blooms 
generally  equals  the  amount  received  from  all  other 
flowers  combined. 

Although  it  is  true  that  roses,  to  be  successfully 
grown,  require  careful  attention,  it  is  not  true  that 
there  is  any  wonderful  secret  that  one  must  acquire  in 
order  to  grow  them,  and,  while  the  inexperienced  rose 
grower  cannot  expect  the  highest  success,  it  is  hoped 
that  if  the  directions  here  given  are  carefully  followed 
many  mistakes  may  be  prevented.  The  work  of  the 
rose  grower  generally  begins  with  the  propagation  and 
growing  of  the  plants,  and  therefore  we  will  commence 
with  that  operation  and  follow  along  with  the  various 
steps  as  the  season  advances. 

PROPAGATING   THE   PLANTS. 

Eose  plants  for  forcing  purposes  are  generally  grown 
from  cuttings  of  the  new  wood  made  any  time  from 
November  to  February,  but  for  most  purposes  the  earlier 

1 


fHQPERTT  UBRART 


2  GREENnOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

date  is  preferable.  The  rule  generally  given  for  learn- 
ing if  the  plants  are  in  proper  condition  to  be  used  for 
cuttings,  i.  e.,  when  in  bending  a  branch  the  wood 
snaps,  does  not  hold  for  roses,  as  cuttings  should  not  be 
made  until  the  buds  in  tlie  axils  of  tlie  leaves  have  be- 
come firm  and  hard.  Some  consider  that  the  lower 
buds  on  a  stem  are  in  good  condition  when  the  flower 
buds  are  ready  to  be  cut,  while  others  believe  that  the 
best  time  for  making  the  cuttings  is  when  the  buds 
begin  to  show  color.  At  any  rate,  the  cuttings  should 
be  made  before  the  leaf  buds  begin  to  swell.  The  cut- 
tings made  as  soon  as  the  buds  have  formed  and  the 
wood  has  lost  its  succulent  nature,  will  root  quicker,  and 
a  much  larger  per  cent  of  them  will  form  roots,  or 
'* strike,"  as  it  is  called.  If  the  variety  is  a  new  and 
choice  one,  the  ))lind  shoots,  or  those  that  have  not 
formed  flower  buds,  are  often  used  for  making  cut- 
tings. While  it  may  be  done  occasionally  without 
marked  injury,  if  persisted  in  the  tendency  will  be 
to  develop  plants  that  form  few  flowering  stems, 
and  the  results  will  not  be  satisfactory,  so  that  the  con- 
tinued use  of  the  blind  shoots  for  cuttings  is  not  to  be 
recommended. 

"When  the  stems  have  long  internodes,  and  particu- 
larly if  it  is  a  new  sort,  a  cutting  should  be  obtained 
from  every  good  bud,  but  those  at  the  lower  part  of  the 
stem,  and  all  at  the  upper  portion  that  are  to  any  ex- 
tent soft  and  succulent,  should  be  rejected.  The  cut- 
tings of  American  Beauty,  and  other  varieties  with  short 
joints,  should  contain  two  or  more  buds.  Cuttings 
should  be  from  one  and  one-half  to  three  inches  long, 
with  one  bud  near  the  top,  at  any  rate,  and  with  the 
lower  end  cut  ofE  smoothly  at  right  angles,  with  a  sharp 
knife.  If  the  uj^per  leaf  is  large,  about  one-half  of  it 
should  be  cut  away,  and  the  other  leaves,  if  any,  should 
be  rubbed  off. 


THE   FORCING    OF    KOSES.  3 

The  cuttings  should  be  drojiped  into  water  to  pre- 
vent their  drying  out,  and  as  soon  as  possible  should  be 
placed  in  the  propagating  bed.  This  should  contain 
about  four  inches  of  clean,  sharp  sand  of  medium  fine- 
ness, and  should  have  heating  pipes  beneath,  to  give  bot- 
tom heat.  Set  the  cuttings  in  rows,  about  two  inches 
apart  and  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in  the  row,  and  press 
the  sand  firmly  about  them.  At  once  wet  them  down 
thorouglily,  and  if  the  weaither  is  clear  and  bright  the 
beds  should  be  shaded  during  the  middle  of  the  day  for 
the  first  week.  The  propagating  house  should  be  kept 
at  a  temperature,  at  night,  of  fifty-eight  or  sixty  degrees, 
with  about  ten  degrees  more  of  bottom  heat.  During  the 
day,  it  should  be  well  ventilated  to  keep  up  the  bottom 
heat  and  thus  promote  root  development,  and  to  admit 
fresh  air,  but  a  temperature  ten  degrees  higher  than  at 
night  is  desirable. 

In  about  three  or  four  weeks,  with  proper  care, 
every  cutting  should  be  rooted.  The  requirements  for 
success,  as  noted  above,  are,  good  cuttings,  clean,  sharp 
sand,  a  proper  temperature,  shadiiig  when  necessary, 
and  an  occasional  wetting  down  of  the  bed,  in  order 
that  the  cuttings  may  not  at  any  time  become  dry.  If 
the  house  is  inclined  to  dry  out,  or  if  the  weather  is 
bright,  the  cuttings  as  well  as  the  walks  should  be  sjjrin- 
kled  occasionally,  and  the  ventilation  should  have  care- 
ful attention.  It  is  best  to  use  fresh  sand  for  each  batch 
of  cuttings. 

POTTIXG  AND   CARE   OF  THE   PLANTS. 

When  the  roots  are  three-fourths  of  an  inch  long, 
the  cuttings  should  be  potted  off  into  two  or  two  and 
one-half  inch  pots,  pressing  the  soil  firmly.  The  best 
soil  for  the  potting  of  rose  cuttings  is  made  of  equal 
parts  of  leaf  mold,  or  decayed  pasture  sods,  and  garden 
loam,  with  a  little  cow  manure  and  bone  meal,  and  sand 


4  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

in  proportion  to  tlic  heaviness  of  the  soil.  After  being 
potted  the  cuttings  should  be  placed  in  a  house  with  a 
night  temperature  of  a  little  less  than  sixty  degrees. 
They  require  the  same  care  as  other  plants,  careful 
watering,  with  an  occasional  syringing  to  keep  down  the 
red  spider,  proper  ventilation,  and  an  avoidance  of  drafts 
and  direct  sunliglit  for  a  few  days,  being  the  main 
things  desired. 

Unless  tobacco  stems  are  strewn  on  the  beds,  it  will 
be  necessary,  once  or  twice  a  week,  to  burn  tobacco 
stems  in  the  house,  or  syringe  them  with  tobacco  water. 
From  the  time  the  cuttings  are  potted  off  until  they 
have  finished  flowering  and  are  ready  to  be  thrown  out, 
or  rested,  they  should  be  kept  growing,  every  precaution 
being  taken  to  avoid  a  check,  if  the  best  results  are  de- 
sired. Some,  however,  prefer  to  grow  the  plants  rapidly 
until  they  are  in  four-inch  pots,  and  then  give  them  a 
short  rest.  As  soon  as  the  roots  have  filled  the  pots, 
and  before  the  plants  become  pot-bound,  shift  to  three 
or  three  and  one-half  inch  pots.  By  the  last  of  April, 
if  they  have  had  good  care,  the  first  batch  will  have 
filled  four-inch  pots  and  will  be  strong  enough  to  plant 
in  the  beds  for  early  flowering,  while  the  others,  as  they 
come  on,  can  be  repotted,  and  will  soon  be  large  enough 
to  be  transferred  to  the  beds.  Only  strong,  well-grown 
plants  should  be  used,  and  if  possible  all  should  be 
planted  out  by  the  first  of  July.  By  this  early  planting 
not  only  can  a  largo  crop  of  blooms  be  secured  during  the 
summer,  when  there  is  a  good  demand  at  a  fair  price,  but 
the  plants  will  be  so  strong  that  they  will  be  able  to  give 
large  crops  during  the  fall  and  early  winter,  when  they 
are  most  needed.  Planting  some  of  the  beds  by  the  first 
of  April,  for  summer  use,  will  often  be  desirable. 

SOIL   FOR   ROSES. 

While  the  different  varieties  will  not  always  thrive 
^th  th§  Bame  kind  of  soil,  it  is  generally  ^cliftitt§4  tha^ 


THE    FORCING  OF   ROSES.  5 

at  all  events,  a  soil  for  roses  should  contain  decomposed 
pasture  sods  and  cow  manure.  The  sod  should  be  ob- 
tained during  the  previous  summer  from  some  old  pas- 
ture with  a  thick,  fibrous  sod,  if  possible,  and  should  be 
piled  up  with  alternate  layers  of  cow  manure,  using  one 
part  of  the  manure  to  from  four  to  six  of  the  sods,  ac- 
cording to  the  character  of  each.  The  sods  should  be 
cut  just  thick  enough  to  remove  the  thick,  fibrous  por- 
tion, and  if  from  an  average  loam  soil,  neither  very 
heavy  nor  light,  but  with  a  good  admixture  of  clay,  the 
compost  prepared  as  above  will  be  of  a  suitable  charac- 
ter for  the  rose  benches,  but  if  the  sods  come  from  a 
sandy  loam  soil  the  addition  of  one  part  of  clay  to  five 
or  six  of  the  mixture  will  be  desirable.  On  the  other 
hand,  if  the  soil  is  inclined  to  be  heavy,  an  equal  quan- 
tity of  sand  should  certainly  be  added.  While  consider- 
able clay  is  desirable  in  soil  for  roses,  there  is  danger  of 
its  being  too  heavy,  as,  even  in  shallow  benches,  if  the 
soil  at  any  time  becomes  too  wet,  particularly  in  the  fall 
before  the  fires  are  started,  or  during  a  cloudy  period  in 
the  winter,  it  will  not  only  be  longer  in  drying  out  than 
a  lighter  soil,  but  *' black  spot"  and  other  diseases  will 
be  much  more  likely  to  follow. 

Early  in  the  spring  the  compost  pile  should  be 
worked  over  and  the  coarser  sods  broken  up.  After 
lying  in  the  pile  for  two  or  three  weeks  more  it  will  be 
ready  to  place  on  the  benches.  When  the  houses  are 
long,  it  will  be  convenient  to  have  openings  in  the  side 
walls,  through  which  the  soil  can  be  thrown  upon  the 
benches,  and  if  there  are  side  ventilators  this  can  be 
readily  done.  If  it  is  not  feasible  to  have  openings  in 
the  sides  of  the  houses,  it  will  be  a  great  convenience  if 
a  small  car  can  be  run  along  the  edges  of  the  benches. 
As  an  entire  chapter  was  devoted  to  "Eose  Houses"  in 
the  companion  volume,  ''Greenhouse  Construction,"  in 
which  the  form  and  wi(ith  of  housQ  best  adapted  to  the 


6  GEEENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

crop  was  discussed  at  length,  it  is  not  thought  necessary 
to  devote  sj^ace  to  it  hero.  By  reference  to  tlie  other 
book,  full  information  regarding  tliese  points,  and  upon 
such  important  matters  as  the  pitch  for  the  roof,  ar- 
rangement of  tlie  ventilators,  the  method  of  estimating 
the  amount  of  heating  pipe  required  and  the  best  way  of 
arranging  it,  will  be  obtained. 

SOLID    BEDS   VEKSUS   RAISED   BENCHES. 

For  many  years  solid  beds  were  almost  universally 
used  for  growing  roses  and  similar  plants.  They  admit 
of  sujiplying  a  full  amount  of  plant  food,  but  while  they 
lessen  the  danger  of  injury  from  neglect  in  watering, 
they  frequently  do  great  harm  if  the  jilants  are  over- 
watered,  particularly  if  the  sun  does  not  show  itself  for 
a  number  of  days,  as  they  are  a  long  time  in  drying  out. 
For  this  reason  they  fell  into  disrepute,  and  were 
replaced,  in  most  establishments,  by  shallow  raised 
benches,  as  it  was  found  that  roses  grown  upon  them,  in 
four  or  five  inches  of  soil,  were  less  likely  to  receive  a 
check  during  the  dull  days  of  early  winter,  when  they 
are  most  in  demand  and  bring  the  best  prices.  Upon 
solid  beds,  however,  with  good  drainage,  large  crops  are 
secured  as  the  bright,  sunny  days  of  spring  come  on, 
and,  what  is  of  much  importance,  the  plants  can  be 
grown  for  two  or  more  years  before  they  are  thrown  out, 
while  upon  shallow  benches  it  is  generally  advisable  to 
renew  the  plants  each  year. 

A.  method  has  now  come  into  use  that  provides  both 
for  the  thorough  drainage  and  the  aeration  of  the  soil, 
as  well  as  warming  it  up  and  drying  it  out.  The  solid 
beds  are  generally  about  seven  feet  v^ide,  with  two  beds 
and  three  walks  in  a  house  twenty  feet  in  width.  The 
drainage  is  provided,  in  some  cases,  by  means  of  com- 
mon drain  tile  laid  across  the  beds  at  intervals  of  from 
one  to  three  feet,  while  in  others  a  foot  or  more  in  depth 


THE    FORCTIfG    OF    ROSES.  7 

of  stones,  or  broken  brick,  is  placed  in  the  bottom  and 
covered  with  eight  inches  of  soil.  A  few  of  our  most 
successful  growers  secure  bottom  heat  by  running  one 
or  more  steam  pipes  lengthwise  of  the  beds  at  about  the 
center  of  the  layer  of  stones ;  the  heat  distributes  itself 
through  the  bed,  and  is  of  marked  advantage  in  wet, 
dull  weather,  in  drying  out  the  surplus  water  and  warm- 
ing up  the  soil.  Another  favorite  arrangement  is  to 
have  three  beds,  each  five  feet  wide,  and  four  walks,  in  a 
house  twenty-two  feet  wide.  These  beds  have  all  of  the 
advantages  of  the  old  solid  bed,  with  none  of  the  disad- 
vantages, and  are  equally  well  adapted  to  carnations, 
violets,  lettuce  and  other  crops.  The  watering  of  the 
plants  by  what  is  known  as  sub-irrigation  has  many  ad- 
vantages, and  is  treated  in  another  chapter. 

PLANTING    THE    HOUSES. 

Before  the  beds  are  filled  with  soil,  ample  drainage 
facilities  should  be  provided,  and  if  raised,  wooden 
benches  are  used  there  should  be  cracks  of  nearly  one 
inch  between  the  bottom  boards,  which  should  prefer- 
ably not  be  more  than  six  inclies  wide.  When  tile  bot- 
toms are  used  the  cracks  can  be  somewhat  smaller.  To 
prevent  the  soil  from  falling  through  the  cracks,  or 
from  filling  up  the  openings  between  the  stones  in  the 
solid  beds,  it  is  well  to  first  put  down  a  layer  of  sods 
with  the  grass  «ide  down,  and  upon  these  four  or  five 
inches  of  the  prepared  soil  for  a  raised  bench,  or  seven 
or  eight  for  a  solid  bed,  should  be  placed.  This  should 
be  leveled  off  and  firmly  packed  down. 

The  beds  are  now  ready  for  planting,  and  this 
should  not  be  long  delayed,  as  the  thin  layer  of  soil  will 
soon  dry  out  and  will  be  in  an  undesirable  condition  for 
setting  out  the  plants.  The  rows  are  generally  twelve 
inches  apart  lengthwise  of  the  house,  so  that  a  bed  will 
hold  as  many  rows  as  it  is  feet  wide,  and  the  plants  are 


8  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

set  twelve  to  sixteen  inclies  apart  in  the  rows,  according 
to  the  strengtli  of  the  variety  and  whether  designed  for 
one  or  two  years'  growing.  Assort  the  plants,  and  use 
the  smaller  ones  next  the  walk*  Dig  holes  for  the 
l)laiits  with  a  trowel,  and  set  the  jilants  about  as  deep  as 
they  grew  in  the  pots,  taking  care  not  to  break  the 
"balls,"  unless  the  plants  have  become  pot-bound,  when 
it  is  well  to  loosen  the  roots.  While  it  is  always  desir- 
able to  work  the  soil  carefully  into  place  and  to  press  it 
firmly  al)Out  the  roots,  the  soil  between  the  plants  should 
be  smoothed  off  and  the  surface  left  light.  Upon  slop- 
ing benches,  in  particular,  it  is  an  excellent  plan  to 
have  depressions  about  the  plants  to  hold  water  and 
cause  it  to  sink  down  to  the  roots,  for  the  first  few  water- 
ings, until  the  plants  become  established.  If  weeds 
scart,  as  they  probably  will  in  a  week  or  ten  days,  the 
soil  should  be  stirred  as  soon  as  they  appear,  and  this 
should  be  repeated  whenever  necessary  to  keep  the  beds 
clean,  until  tlie  roots  fill  the  soil,  when  it  should  be  dis- 
continued, as  it  is  likely  to  check  the  growth  of  the 
plants  by  breaking  the  roots. 

WATERING    AND   VENTILATING. 

From  planting  time,  every  detail  of  watering  and 
ventilating  should  be  carefully  performed,  as  any  check 
now  would  seriously  injure  the  prospect  of  a  paying 
crop  of  flowers.  As  soon  as  planted,  and  every  bright 
morning  thereafter  until  established,  the  plants,  and 
also  the  walks,  should  be  thoroughly  syringed,  and  the 
beds  should  be  watered  whenever  they  show  signs  of 
drying  out,  but  while  they  should  not  suffer  from  lack 
of  water,  even  greater  pains  should  be  observed  that  they 
are  not  saturated.  This  will  also  aid  in  keeping  down 
the  red  spider,  which  only  flourishes  in  a  dry  atmosphere. 
No  plant  requires  more  care  than  the  rose,  about  ventila- 
tion,   Prafts  of  Qold  air  upon  the  foliage  shoijld  always 


THE    FORCING    OF    EOSES.  9 

be  avoided,  and  it  is  generally  a  good  thing,  in  a  rose 
house,  to  have  the  ventilators  arranged  with  this  idea. 
If  there  is  but  a  single  row,  they  should  be  on  the  side 
from  which  the  prevailing  winds  come,  if  hinged  at  the 
bottom,  and  on  the  opposite  side  if  hinged  at  the  top. 

While  either  extreme  of  temperature  should  be 
guarded  against,  it  is  quite  as  desirable  to  give  the  plants 
fresh  air,  at  least  for  a  short  time,  each  day.  In  hot 
weather  give  all  of  the  air  possible,  and  leave  on  some 
even  at  night,  at  the  ridge.  Exposing  the  plants  to 
great  extremes  of  temperature  is  especially  likely  to 
bring  on  an  attack  of  the  mildew,  and  if  it  should  ap- 
pear, as  it  often  does,  without  apparent  cause,  the  house 
should  be  kept  somewhat  closer  than  usual  for  a  few 
days,  and  after  syringing  them  the  plants  should  be 
dusted  over  with  sulphur.  As  the  weather  becomes  cool 
in  September,  it  is  well  to  furnish  a  little  artificial  heut, 
to  keep  the  temperature  of  the  house  above  fifty-five 
degrees.  One  or  two  steam  pipes,  or  a  low  fire  in  the 
hot  water  heater,  will  secure  this  and  often  prevent  a 
serious  check  of  the  plants.  With  this  care,  firm,  short- 
jointed  wood  should  be  secured,  which  will  give  an 
abundance  of  bloom.  While  fifty-eight  degrees  is  given 
as  desirable  for  a  rose  house,  in  order  to  secure' the  best 
results,  with  the  various  sorts  some  little  deviation  is 
advisable.  The  Meteor,  among  other  kinds,  needs  a 
few  degrees  higher  than  that,  while  the  Perle,  Bride 
and  Mermet,  and  others  of  the  old  varieties,  should 
have  a  temperature  a  little  lower  than  fifty-eight  degrees, 
if  the  plants  have  been  properly  grown. 

It  will  generally  be  found  best  to  do  the  watering 
early  in  the  morning,  and,  on  the  warm,  bright  days 
when  syringing  is  necessary,  it  should  be  done  early 
enough  so  that  the  plants  will  dry  off  before  night.  In 
ventilating,  care  should  be  taken  to  avoid  extremes,  and 
it  is  best  to  ^ive  a  little  air  as  §oou  3,3  the  sun  begins  to 


10  GEEENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

warm  the  houses,  and  the  amount  should  he  gradually 
increased,  so  tliat  during  the  warmest  and  brightest  part 
of  the  day  it  will  be  ten  or  fifteen  degrees  higher  than 
at  night.  AVhen  the  temperature  is  allowed  to  run  up 
ten  or  fifteen  degrees  before  the  air  is  let  on,  and  then 
the  ventilators  are  opened  wide,  it  will  be  almost  sure  to 
bring  on  mildew.  Plants  grown  with  a  judiciously  reg- 
ulated supply  of  air  will  be  in  a  much  healthier  condi- 
tion than  those  grown  where  extremes  prevail. 

LIQUID   MANUEES   AND   FERTILIZERS. 

After  the  roses  have  started  into  growth,  it  will  be 
•well  to  give  them  an  apjilication  of  liquid  manure  once 
in  two  weeks.  It  will  generally  be  advisable  to  pinch 
off  the  first  flower  buds  that  form,  that  the  plants  may 
throw  all  of  their  vigor  into  the  development  of  stems 
and  leaves. 

From  the  first  benches  planted,  cutting  can  begin 
in  July,  and  as  soon  as  the  crop  is  off  the  bed  should 
receive  an  application  of  ground  bone,  at  the  rate  of  one 
pound  to  twenty-five  square  feet.  This  should  be 
slightly  worked  into  the  soil,  and  the  bed  covered  with 
manure.  A  half  inch  of  sheep  manure  will  be  prefera- 
ble, but  if  this  cannot  be  obtained  three-fourths  of  an 
inch  of  cow  manure  will  answer.  Unless  mineral  ma- 
nures are  relied  upon,  the  application  should  be  repeated 
once  in  two  months.  During  the  dull  weather  from 
November  to  January,  the  mulching  should  be  thin,  but 
by  February  the  amount  used  may  be  slightly  increased. 

It  is  believed  by  many  growers  that  the  diseases 
like  ''black  spot,"  and  mildew,  and  the  other  troubles, 
such  as  blind  shoots,  and  imperfect  flowers,  may  be  at- 
tributed, at  least  in  part,  to  the  stimulating  effects  of 
stable  manure.  AVhile  they  are  not  caused  directly  by 
its  use,  there  can  be  no  doubt  but  that  the  large  quan- 
tity of  sheep  and  cow  manure  used   by  many  florist^ 


THE   FORCING    OF    ROSES.  11 

promotes  a  soft,  watery  growth  that  is  particularly  sus- 
ceptible to  disease,  and,  what  is  more  to  be  dreaded, 
that  a  slight  neglect,  such  as  an  improper  temperature, 
or  the  application  of  too  much  water,  will  give  the 
plants  a  check  that  will  result  seriously  to  them.  The 
use  of  mineral  fertilizers,  on  the  other  hand,  tends  to 
develop  earlier,  larger  and  better  flowers,  and  the  plants 
will  be  stronger,  and  with  firmer  stems  and  foliage,  that 
will  be  less  likely  to  be  injured  by  neglect  and  disease. 
For  these  reasons  it  is  a  growing  practice  with  many 
of  our  most  successful  rose  growers  to  rely  largely  upon 
mineral  manures,  beginning  as  early  as  November  upon 
old  plants,  although  January  will  be  safer  for  young 
ones.  These  fertilizers  can  be  broadcasted  either  in  a 
dry  state  or  in  water.  For  roses,  a  good  mixture  will 
consist  of  one  part  of  nitrate  of  soda,  two  parts  of  sul- 
phate of  potash,  and  ten  parts  of  ground  bone.  These 
should  be  thoroughly  mixed  and  applied  broadcast  at 
the  rate  of  one  pound  to  twenty-tive  square  feet  of  bench, 
or  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  up  to  four  pounds,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  plants,  in  fifty  gallons  of  water. 
When  roses  are  growing  rapidly  the  broadcast  applica- 
tion can  be  repeated  once  a  month,  but  a  less  frequent 
application  will  be  better  for  small  plants,  or  if  there  is 
but  little  growth.  The  liquid  applications  can  be  made 
much  more  frequently,  but  care  should  be  taken  not  to 
use  too  large  a  quantity  of  nitrate  of  soda,  or  sulphate 
of  potash,  as,  if  applied  in  excessive  quantities,  they  will 
check  the  growth  and  even  kill  the  plants.  When  the 
ground  bone  has  been  scattered  upon  the  surface  and 
mixed  with  the  soil,  an  excellent  liquid  fertilizer  is 
made  by  placing  one  pound  each  of  the  nitrate  of  soda 
and  of  sulphate  of  potash  in  two  hundred  gallons  of 
water,  for  young  plants,  which  amount  may  be  decreased 
to  one  hundred  gallons  of  water  when  the  plants  become 
full  grown,  applying  at  intervals  of  from  two  to  four 


12  GREENHOUSE    MANAGEMENT.  ' 

weeks.  The  best  time  to  apply  liquid  manure  is  in  the 
morning,  when  the  beds  are  a  little  dry,  as  it  will  then 
be  more  evanly  distributed  tlirough  the  soil.  When 
nitrate  of  soda  and  sulphate  of  potash  are  used  as  a  top- 
dressing,  one  pound  of  each  to  two  hundred  square  feet 
of  bed  will  be  ample. 

Unleached  wood  ashes  afford  a  desirable  source  for 
jiotash  and  pliosphoric  acid,  and  may  be  used  at  the 
rate  of  a  bushel  to  two  or  three  hundred  square  feet  of 
bed.  The  potash  will  promote  the  development  of  firm, 
short-jointed  wood,  and,  combined  with  the  phosphoric 
acid,  will  favor  the  production  of  flowers.  Many  flo- 
rists still  cling  to  the  use  of  liquid  fertilizers  made  from 
animal  manures,  and  one  of  the  best  mixtures  is  com- 
posed of  a  peck  of  lien  manure  and  a  half  bushel  of 
sheep  manure  in  one  hundred  gallons  of  water.  The 
food  contained  in  the  few  inches  of  soil  in  which  roses 
are  grown  is  soon  exhausted,  and  it  must  be  replaced  in 
some  way,  .  The  top-dressing  of  sheep  or  cow  manure 
answers  fairly  well  for  this  purpose,  as  well  as  for  a 
mulch  to  keep  the  weeds  down  after  the  roots  of  the 
roses  have  filled  the  soil  so  that  stirring  the  surface  will 
injure  them,  but  it  is  unsightly,  and  keeps  the  surface 
wet  and  sour  and  prevents  the  ready  access  of  the  air  to 
the  roots,  so  that,  although  it  is  of  much  benefit  during 
the  summer  months,  it  is  a  positive  drawback  during 
the  winter. 

All  fallen  and  diseased  leaves  should  be  removed 
and  burned,  and  the  surface  of  the  bed  should  have  an 
occasional  stirring,  to  admit  the  ?ir  and  to  prevent  the 
baking  of  the  soil,  but  care  should  be  taken  not  to  dis- 
turb the  roots.  In  addition  to  the  other  work  men- 
tioned, it  is  desirable  to  be  prepared  at  all  times  to  fight 
insects  and  diseases.  A  description  of  the  most  trouble- 
some forms,  and  the  treatment  for  them,  will  be  found  in 
another  chapter. 


THE  FORCING   OF  ROSES. 


13 


VARIETIES    FOR  FORCING. 


The  varieties  of  roses  that  will  be  most  profitable 
will  depend,  to  a  large  extent,  upon  the  character  of 
the  market,  as  well  as  upon  the  character  of  the  soil 
available  for  growing  them  in.  To  be  profitable,  a  vari- 
ety should  have  a  good  constitution ;  it  should  be  a  vigor- 


FIG.  1.     PRESIDENT   CAENOT. 


ous  grower,  with  strong,  upright  stems ;  the  foliage 
should  be  of  rich  color  and  good  substance,  and  free 
from  any  tendency  to  disease ;  the  flowers  should  be 
large  and  single  on  the  stems,  of  a  clear  color,  and  in 


14  GUEEXIIOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

the  case  of  the  red  sorts  without  any  tendency  to  turn 
purple.  They  sliould  be  double  enough  not  to  show  the 
center,  and  the  plants  should  have  a  long  and  steady 
season  of  flowering. 

Among  the  varieties  that  are  most  commonly  grown 
are  Bride.,  Perle  (des  Jardins),  Catlierine  Mermet  and 
American  Beauty.  To  these  should  be  added  Mad.  Car- 
oline Testout,  Kaiserin  Augusta  Victoria^  Bridesmaid, 
Mrs.  AV.  C.  Whitney,  Pres.  Carnot  (Fig.  1)  and  Meteor, 
of  more  recent  introduction,  which  are  fast  coming  into 
favor. 

American  Beauty  has  no  rival  in  its  class,  and  its 
flowers  are  always  in  demand  at  good  prices.  Its  flowers 
are  rather  small  in  summer  and  the  petals  soon  take  on 
a  purple  color,  but  when  well  grown  it  is  a  grand  rose. 
Many  growers  who  are  successful  with  most  sorts  fail 
with  this  variety,  which  will  only  succeed  with  the  very 
best  of  care.  It  needs  a  strong,  stiff  soil,  and  a  temper- 
ature at  as  near  sixty  degrees  as  can  be  secured. 

Bride  is  the  favorite  white  vai-iety.  It  also  needs  a 
rather  heavy  soil,  and  shuuld  be  started  early.  The 
temperature  for  this  sort  is  fifty-six  degrees,  or  a  little 
below.  "With  close  attention  to  ventilation,  this  is  a 
very  desirable  sort. 

Mermet  was  for  many  years  the  best  pink  variety,  but 
the  fact  that  it  is  of  a  very  light  color  during  the  dark 
days  of  winter,  and,  like  the  Bride,  which  is  a  sport  from 
it,  quite  subject  to  mildew,  has  lessened  its  popuhirity. 
It  requires  the  same  care  as  Bride,  and  if  given  a  low 
temperature  at  night,  careful  ventilation  during  the 
day,  and  if  sheltered  from  cold  drafts  of  air,  it  is  still  a 
desirable  sort.  Bridesmaid  (Fig.  2),  a  recent  candidate 
for  a  place  in  the  list  of  commercial  varieties,  is  a  little 
deeper  pink  than  JMermet,  and  has  the  marked  advantages 
of  holding  its  color  and  being  comparatively  free  fiom  the 
attack  of  mildew.     Whurever  it  has  been  planted  it  is 


THE  PORCIJSTG  OP  KOSES. 


15 


^ 


.-i*..- 


IG  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

tlie  most  jDopular  pink  sort,  and  it  is  rapidly  supplanting 
Mermet.     It  thrives  at  a  medium  temperature. 

Testout  is  another  variety  with  large  flowers  of  a 
pure  pink  color.  It  is  rather  particular  as  to  soil  and 
care,  and  although  a  fair  variety  for  winter  when  well 
grown,  it  is  too  single  for  summer  use.  Valuable  for 
the  amateur.  It  should  have  not  less  than  sixty  degrees 
and  it  likes  a  yellow  loam  soil. 

Meteor  is  one  of  the  best  red,  everblooming  roses, 
but  to  be  successfully  grown  it  should  have  a  house 
where  a  temperature  of  at  least  sixty-three  degrees  ean 
be  given,  while  it  will  luxuriate  at  sixty-five  to  sixty- 
eight.  It  is  naturally  quite  likely  to  be  attacked  by 
mildew  and  red  spider,  unless  great  care  is  taken  with 
the  ventilation  and  syringing. 

Kaiserin  is  a  good  summer  variety  and  has  a  long 
season  of  flowering,  but  is  generally  considered  a  failure 
as  a  variety  for  winter  flowering,  as  it  is  likely  to  take 
on  a  greenish-white  color. 

Mrs.  W.  C.  Whitney  is  an  early  and  a  free  flowering 
variety.  It  has  an  excellent  foliage,  is  a  vigorous 
grower  and  has  long  stems.  Its  flowers  are  large  and 
full  and  of  a  pure,  deep  pink. 

American  Belle  is  a  sport  from  American  Beauty, 
and  where  a  sufficiently  high  price  can  be  obtained  it  is 
a  favorite  variety.  The  flowers  are  very  full  and  have  a 
deep  pink  color  with  a  carmine  shade. 

The  new  rose.  Souvenir  de  Pres.  Carnot,  is  making 
a  very  good  impression.  It  is  a  very  strong  grower, 
with  long,  stiff  stems.  The  flower  is  of  a  distinct  shade 
of  pink ;  it  is  of  a  large  size  and  has  a  sweet  odor.  It  is 
claimed  to  flower  freely,  both  indoors  and  out,  and  to 
be  particularly  valuable  on  account  of  its  excellent 
keeping  qualities. 

Of  the  other  recent  sorts  that  are  being  largely 
planted  are  Belle  Siebrecht  and  Mrs.  Pierpont  Morgan. 


THE  FORCING    OF   KOSES.  17 

Although  it  is  claimed  by  some  that  the  former  is  sub- 
ject to  black  spot  in  the  summer  and  fall,  with  us  it  has 
very  handsome,  clean  foliage,  and  the  flowers  are  large, 
full,  very  fragrant,  and  of  a  rich,  deep  pink  color.  Its 
petals  are  rather  thick,  and  it  is  a  good  keeper.  With 
some  groAvers  the  stems  are  inclined  to  be  short  and  weak. 

Mrs,  P.  Morgan  is  a  promising  sport  from  Mad. 
Cusin.  It  is  a  stronger  grower,  a  freer  bloomer,  and 
the  flowers  are  larger  and  darker.  They  are  inclined  to 
be  irregular  in  shape  and  variable  in  color.  Both  of 
these  roses  will  do  well  at  about  fifty-eight  degrees. 
The  latter  is  injured  if  the  house  is  damp,  and  if  dull 
weather  comes  when  the  house  is  wet  from  recent  syr- 
inging, the  results  to  the  flowers  may  be  serious  unless 
the  air  can  be  dried.  For  this  reason  a  steam  heated 
house  is  desirable. 

For  growing  at  low  temperatures,  among  the  best  of 
the  old  kinds  are  Wootton  for  rcd^  Perle  as  yellow, 
Bridesmaid  as  a  large  pink,  and  Mad.  Cusin  for  small, 
with  Bride,  or  Niphetos  for  white. 

Perle  is  perhaps  more  extensively  grown  than  any 
other  variety,  and  has  no  rival  as  a  yellow  sort.  It 
requires  a  moderately  light  soil,  not  too  rich  in  unde- 
composed  manure,  and  an  abundance  of  sunlight,  with 
a  temperature  of  about  sixty  degrees.  If  the  soil  is 
heavy,  the  houses  should  be  at  least  two  or  three  degrees 
warmer  than  this.  If  any  or  all  of  these  conditions  are 
not  given,  this  variety  is  very  apt  to  furnish  what 
are  known  as  "bullheads,"  and  on  this  account  many 
growers  have  become  dissatisfied  with  it,  but  can  find  no 
other  variety  to  compare  with  it.  Care  in  securing  a 
soil  that  is  not  t(?o  rich,  and  in  keeping  up  a  tempera- 
ture a  little  higher  than  is  required  by  most  of  the  other 
sorts,  will  generally  give  satisfactory  results. 

Niphetos  is  an  old  white  sort,  but,  excepting  Bride, 
it  has  no  equal,  as  it  tlirives  and  gives  large  numbers  of 


18  GKEENHOUSE  MANAGEMEKT. 

flowers  under  conditions  tliat  would  be  far  from  suitable 
to  most  of  the  new  sorts.  It  is  a  rather  weak  grower, 
and  is  well  adapted  for  planting  on  the  side  benches. 
While  it  does  well  at  quite  a  range  of  temperature,  the 
largest  and  best  flowers  are  obtained  at  rather  less  than 
fifty-eight,  although  the  number  will  be  increased  at 
sixty  to  sixty- five  degrees. 

La  France  was  formerly  a  favorite,  disputing  with 
Mermet  the  right  to  first  place  as  a  pink  sort,  but  both 
have,  in  most  establishments,  had  to  give  way  to  Brides- 
maid. It  is  quite  subject  to  black  spot,  but  with  care- 
ful handling  can  be  grown  Avith  success. 

Among  the  older  sorts  that  are  still  much  grown, 
where  the  market  does  not  call  for  high  priced  flowers, 
are  Bon  Silene  and  Papa  Gontier,  carmine;  Sunset,  a 
strong-growing  buff  variety,  and  Duchess  of  Albany. 

Where  the  prices  will  not  warrant  the  growing  of 
Beauty,  Papa  Gontier  may  be  used  instead.  It  does 
best  on  shallow,  raised  benches,  with  fifty-five  degrees  or 
less  at  night,  and  with  plenty  of  air  on  mild  days. 
Larger  buds  are  obtained  on  solid  beds,  but  the  number 
will  be  much  less.  After  flowering,  apply  water  spar- 
ingly, as  otherwise  the  plants  may  drop  their  leaves. 

Souvenir  de  Wootton  is  also  highly  regarded  by 
many  who  do  not  succeed  with  American  Beauty. 

Of  the  other  sorts,  Madam  Cusin  and  Madam  de 
Watteville  and  Madam  Hoste  are  still  favorites  in  many 
establishments. 

In  nearly  all  cases  where  raised  beds  are  used,  it  is 
customary  to  throw  out  the  plants  after  cropping  them 
for  one  season,  but  if  they  have  been  planted  late  and 
have  not  been  forced,  some  of  the  smaller  sorts  may  be 
dried  off  afld  rested,  and  after  a  few  weeks  taken  up, 
placed  in  small  pots  and  kept  in  a  shaded  place  until 
the  roots  have  filled  the  pots,  when  they  may  be  re- 
potted, or  at  once  planted  out  in  fresh  soil  upon  the 


THE    FORCING    OF    ROSES.  19 

beds.  As  a  rule,  it  will  be  better  to  replant  with  well- 
grown,  young  plants. 

When  grown  in  solid  beds,  the  same  result  is  se- 
cured without  taking  them  from  the  bed.  The  plants 
are  dried  off  in  May,  so  that  they  will  rest,  but  not 
enough  so  that  they  will  shrivel,  and  kept  in  this  condi- 
tion for  six  weeks  or  two  months.  The  small  wood 
should  then  be  cut  out,  and  the  remaining  branches 
headed  back.  A  little  of  the  surface  soil  can  then  be 
removed,  if  it  can  be  done  without  disturbing  the  roots, 
and  a  rich  mulch  applied  to  the  bed.  Water  should 
then  be  applied,  but  rather  sparingly  at  first,  so  as  to 
avoid  saturating  the  soil  before  the  growth  has  started. 
If  properly  handled,  a  heavy  cut  should  be  secured  dur- 
ing the  fall,  and  the  results  for  the  season  will  often- 
times be  as  great  as  could  be  obtained  from  new  plants, 
while  there  will  be  quite  a  saving  in  the  expense  for  the 
plants  and  for  renewing  the  soil.  Some  of  the  most 
successful  growers  make  a  practice  of  carrying  over 
about  one-half  of  the  plants  each  year.  ' 

If  they  are  to  be  replaced,  as  soon  as  they  are  past 
the  period  of  profitable  flowering,  or  when  the  beds  are 
needed  for  replanting,  the  plants  should  be  removed 
and  burned  and  the  soil  taken  from  the  table.  The 
benches  should  at  once  be  repaired  and  made  ready  for 
new  plants.  It  is  well  to  paint  all  the  woodwork  of  the 
benches  and  walls  each  year  with  a  hot  wash  composed 
of  equal  parts  of  lime  and  cement,  to  which  a  small 
quantity  of  salt  has  been  added.  This  can  be  applied 
rapidly  with  a  whitewash  brush,  and  will  help  to  pre- 
serve the  lumber  and  destroy  insects,  besides  improving 
the  appearance  of  the  interior  of  the  house.  If  the 
plants  have  been  troubled  with  fungi  and  insects,  it  will 
be  well  to  burn  a  small  quantity  of  sulphur,  but  it 
should  not  be  done  while  there  are  plants  in  the  adjoin- 
ing houses,  as  it  will  prove  fatal  to  them  as  well  as  to 


20 


GREENUOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


the  insects  and  the  germs  of  the  diseases.  Xearly  as 
good  results  can  be  obtained,  liowever,  witliout  injury 
to  the  plants,  if  the  sulphur  is  slowly  evaporated  over 
an  oil  stove. 

•     STAKING   AND   TRELLISING. 

When  the  jilants  have  been  in  the  beds  for  six  weeks 
or  two  months,  the  growth  will  generally  be  sufficient 
to  re^iuire  staking.  Most  growers  still  tie  with  raffia  to 
stakes  of  wood  or  bamboo,  and  by  an  occasional  re-tying 
keep  the  shoots  in  jjlace.     The  use  of  wire  is,  however. 


FIG.  3.     WIRE  TRELLIS    FOR  ROSES. 

becoming  quite  common,  and  rose  growers  have  devised 
a  variety  of  trellises  for  the  purpose.  One  of  the  sim- 
plest of  these  consists  of  a  No.  12  wire  stretched  about 
three  feet  above  the  bed  over  each  row  of  j^lants  (Fig.  2), 
to  support  stakes  of  No.  6  or  No.  8  wire,  to  which  the 
plants  can  be  tied.  Sometimes  another  wire  is  run 
lengthwise  of  the  house  along  each  row  of  plants,  near 
the  soil,  and  a  smaller  wire,  fastened  to  this  at  the  bot- 
tom and  to  the  other  wire  at  the  top,  can  be  used  as  a 
support  for  each  plant.     Still  a  third  method  is  to  ruij 


THE   FORCING    OF    ROSES.  21 

about  three  wires  (No.  12  galvanized)  lengthwise  of 
eacli  row  and  one  above  the  other  at  intervals  of  about 
one  foot,  the  lower  wire  being  about  the  same  distance 
from  the  soil.  The  wires  will  need  to  be  stretched  and 
fastened  at  each  end  to  a  gas-pipe  framework  (Fig.  3),  and 
supported  at  intervals  of  twenty-five  feet  with  a  lighter 
framework. 

Although  there  is  considerable  expense  at  first  for 
the  wires,  it  will  be  found  very  satisfactory,  and  in  the 
end  perhaps  less  expensive  than  any  of  the  old  methods. 
If  desired,  it  will  be  a  simple  matter  to  so  arrange  the 
long  wires  that,  when  refilling  the  beds,  they  can  be 
drawn  up  out  of  the  way. 

FORCING   HYBRID   PERPETUAL   ROSES. 

When  they  can  be  brought  into  flower  by  Christmas 
or  New  Year's,  the  large  flowers  of  tins  class  of  roses 
bring  a  large  price,  and  they  are  then  quite  profitable. 
The  care  required  is  different  than  for  teas  and  for  most 
hybrid  teas,  as  the  plants  must  make  their  growth  and 
have  a  period  of  rest  before  flowering.  They  are  gener- 
ally grown  in  solid  beds,  but  sometimes  boxes  or  pots 
are  used.  When  grown  in  beds  they  should  have  thor- 
ough drainage  with  tiles,  stones,  or  broken  brick,  ar- 
rauged  in  the  same  way  as  described  for  tea  roses,  and 
provided  with  eight  or  nine  inches  of  rich  compost. 
Although  cuttings  are  often  used,  the  largest  blooms 
can  be  obtained  when  they  are  either  budded,  or  grafted, 
upon  Manetti  stocks. 

The  plants  should  be  set  early  enough  so  that  they 
will  complete  their  growth  by  the  middle  of  July. 
They  should  be  ripened  off  by  gradually  withholding 
water,  and  only  giving  them  enough  to  keep  the  plants 
from  wilting  and  shrivelling.  By  syringing  morning 
and  evening,  the  plants  can  often  be  kept  from  wilting 
witljot|t  wetting  tlie  soil,     During  rains  the  beds  should 


»5J  GKEEXHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

be  kept  dry,  as,  if  the  soil  becomes  saturated,  rest  will 
be  prevented  and  the  crop  will  be  a  failure.  If  in  pots 
or  boxes,  they  should  be  turned  upon  their  sides  during 
rains.  From  four  to  six  weeks  will  generally  be  rest 
enough,  and  when  growth  has  stopped,  and  the  shoots 
have  taken  on  a  lighter  color,  they  should  be  pruned, 
removing  the  weak  shoots  and  cutting  the  strong  ones 
back  to  sound  wood  and  plump  buds.  After  a  few  days, 
scraj)e  off  the  top  soil  and  replace  with  a  fresh  compost 
of  equal  parts  of  rotten  sods  and  cow  manure.  Water 
thoroughly,  and  repeat  when  the  soil  becomes  dry. 
Syringe  every  pleasant  morning  and  give  thorough  ven- 
tilation, keeping  the  house  at  forty-seven  to  fifty  degrees 
at  night  until  the  buds  start.  The  temperature  can 
then  be  raised  at  the  rate  of  one  or  two  degrees  a  week, 
with  less  ventilation  after  the  leaves  show.  By  the  time 
the  flower  buds  appear  it  should  have  reached  fifty-four 
degrees,  and  should  then  be  raised  to  fifty-five  or  fifty- 
six  degrees,  at  which  temjierature  the  house  should  be 
kept  until  the  plants  are  through  flowering.  Ventilate 
at  sixty-two  to  sixty-five  in  the  morning,  but  let  the 
temperature  run  up  to  seventy-five  degrees  at  noon. 
After  the  buds  appear,  the  beds  should  be  given  a 
watering  with  liquid  manure  once  or  twice  a  week. 
If  started  l)y  the  first  of  October,  they  will  flower  for 
Christmas  and  New  Year's.  The  later  sorts  can  best 
be  grown  in  pots  or  boxes,  as  they  can  then  be  left 
outside  until  the  weather  becomes  severe,  when  they 
should  be  placed  in  a  cool  greenhouse  and  brought  into 
heat  as  desired. 

Beds  of  hybrids  are  generally  carried  for  several 
years,  and  require  about  the  same  care  as  the  first  year, 
except  that  the  shoots  are  left  somewhat  longer  and  are 
bent  over  to  promote  the  starting  of  side  branches  (Fig.  4). 
They  can  be  held  in  place  by  stretcliing  No.  14  galva- 
nized wire  over  each  row  at  the  bight  of  from  one  or  two 


TEE   FOKCrXG    OF   EOSES. 


23 


24  GKEENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

feet,  according  to  tlie  size  of  the  plants,  and  tying  the 
shoots  to  it. 

For  the  successful  growing  of  hybrid  roses  in  solid 
beds,  the  houses  should  be  so  arranged  that  the  glass 
upon  at  least  one  side  of  the  roof  can  be  taken  off. 
This  should  be  done  by  the  first  of  July,  to  assist  them 
in  ripening  off,  and  if  rain  comes  the  roof  should  at  once 
be  replaced.  As  soon  as  the  plants  are  pruned  the  glass 
should  be  replaced  and  a  regular  temi^erature  maintained, 
if  the  plants  are  to  flower  at  Christmas. 

ROSES   IN    POTS    AND   BOXES. 

If  only  a  few  plants  are  us.^d  for  forcing,  they  may 
be  grown  in  nine-inch  pots,  or  in  long  boxes  six  inches 
wide,  and  about  the  same  depth.  This  method  is  par- 
ticularly desirable  for  hybrid  perpetnals.  The  small 
plants  should  be  grown  the  same  as  for  the  beds,  and 
should  receive  their  final  shift  not  later  than  the  first  of 
July.  The  tea  roses  will  do  best  if  kept  growing  in  the 
house,  although  some  florists  think  it  well  to  harden 
them  by  placing  them  out  of  doors  when  they  are  in 
eight-  or  nine-inch  pots  and  plunging  them  to  their 
rims  in  sand  or  coal  ashes,  tlie  same  as  should  be  done 
with  the  hybrids.  They  will  need  frequent  syringing, 
but  care  should  be  taken  not  to  give  enough  water  to 
the  soil  to  admit  of  their  becoming  water-soaked.  By 
the  middle  of  August,  the  pots  will  be  filled  with  roots, 
and  the  teas  should  be  removed  to  a  cold  frame,  or  a 
cool  house. 

The  hybrids  should  be  dried  off,  and  will  need  the 
same  attention  as  those  in  solid  benches,  until  the  wood 
becomes  hard,  when  they  should  be  pruned,  and  after 
being  first  placed  in  a  cold  frame,  should  be  gradually 
brought  in  to  heat.  With  the  same  care  in  watering, 
syringing  and  ventilating  as  is  given  the  roses  in  the 
beds,  they  will  bloom  l)y  Christmas.  A  house  of  hybrid 
teas  in  bud  is  shown  in  Fig.  5. 

moKimr  UUUR7 


THE  FOECING   OF  EOSES. 


25 


2G  GREENHOUSE    MANAGEMEJfT. 

For  early  bloom  in  <^,  the  best  sorts  are  the  well- 
known  Gen.  Jacqueminot,  Anna  de  Diesbach,  Mrs.  John 
Laing  and  Magna  Charta.  For  late  sorts,  in  addition 
to  tlie  above,  Gloire  do  Margottin,  Ulrich  Brnnner  and 
Baroness  Rothschild  can  be  used,  and  with  good  care 
will  ffive  satisfaction. 


CHAPTER   II. 

THE   CAR]SrATION. 

Although  the  old  garden  pink  and  the  carnation,  or 
gillyflower,  as  it  was  called,  have  long  been  grown,  there 
being  over  three  hundred  variefies  as  far  back  as  1070, 
the  florist's  carnation  of  to-day  is  comparatively  a  mod- 
ern creation.  The  first  real  step  in  its  development  Avas 
made  by  Dalmais,  of  Lyons,  France,  some  fifty  years 
since,  and  they  were  further  improved  by  Alegatiere, 
who,  in  1800,  developed  varieties  with  stiff  stems. 

The  origination  of  new  varieties  has  been  taken  up 
by  quite  a  number  of  American  florists,  and  they  have 
met  with  remarkable  success.  Tlie  method  pursued  is 
by  careful  and  systematic  cross-fertilization.  When 
skilfully  performed,  perhaps  fifty  per  cent  of  the  seed- 
lings will  give  double  flowers,  and  five  per  cent  may 
have  enough  promise  to  warrant  their  further  trial. 
The  improvement  is  along  the  lines  of  size,  shape,  fra- 
grance and  color  of  the  flowers,  the  vigor  and  frecdoin 
of  bloom  in  the  plant,  the  length  and  stifl'ness  of  stCm, 
and  the  perfection  of  the  calyx  ;  and  although  much  has 
been  achieved,  there  is  promise  of  great  progress  in  the 
future. 

"Within  the  past  ten  years  the  demand  for  carnation 
flowers  has  greatly  increased,  and  this  has  led  to  the 


THE   CAKNATIOIS".  27 

erection  of  many  large  establishments  devoted  almost 
entirely  to  growing  them.  We  also  find  a  considerable 
number  of  florists  whose  priiiciiial  business  is  the  grow- 
ing of  hnndreds  of  tliousands  of  rooted  cuttings  and 
plants,  for  sale  to  other  florists.  The  reason  for  the 
demand  need  not  long  be  sought  for,  as  it  is  very  evident 
that  the  carnation,  as  a  flower  available  the  year  round, 
has  few,  if  any,  equals.  It  is  showy  and  attractive,  its 
colors  are  well  adapted  for  use  in  decoration  and  for 
personal  adornment,  it  has  a  pleasing  fragrance,  and  the 
flowers  are  far  more  lasting  than  those  of  the  rose  and 
most  other  plants,  and  these  points  in  its  favor,  together 
with  the  fact  that  they  are  sold  at  a  comparatively  low 
price,  have  made  it  the  ])eople's  flower,  and  led  to  the 
great  growth  in  carnation  culture. 

PEOPAGATION. 

For  ordinary  greenhouse  cultivation,  the  plants  are 
generally  started  from  cuttings  as  early  as  November  or 
Dece:aber,  although  with  a  favorable  summer  for  their 
growth,  strong  plants  can  be  o])tained  by  the  last  of 
August  from  cuttings  struck  as  late  as  March.  If  de- 
sired for  summer  blooming,  they  should  be  struck  as 
early  even  as  October,  and  if  flowers  are  desired  in  the 
early  fall,  the  making  of  the  cuttings  should  not  be  de- 
layed after  November.  Another  reason  for  making  the 
cuttings  so  early  is  that  at  that  time  the  plants  are 
strong  and  vigorous,  Avhile  later  on  they  will  be  weak- 
ened by  flower  production,  and  by  the  forcing  process  to 
v/hicli  they  are  subjected  during  the  winter. 

As  often  propagated,  it  is  not  stiange  that  varieties 
run  out,  but  with  proper  cnre  much  can  be  done  to  pre- 
vent it,  if  the  cuttings  are  rightly  selected.  Above  all, 
they  should  not  be  made  from  plants  that  are  in  any 
way  diseased  or  that  have  been  flowering  freely  for  a 
long  period.      The  best  cuttings   are  made  from  side 


28 


GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


shoots  of  flowering  stems,  and  it  is  a  good  plan  not  to 
pull  them  until  the  flowers  have  opened,  as  one  can  then 
tell  what  the  flowers  of  the  cuttings  are  likely  to  be. 

The  portions  used  for  cuttings  should  be  firm  rather 
than  soft  and  watery,  but  should  not  be  the  weak,  pui,y 
stems  that  weak  plants  often  send  out.  While  the  best 
results  can  be  secured  from  the  suckers  that  form  around 
the  base  of  the  plants,  the  strong  pips  along  the  sides  of 
the  stems  may  be  used  and  will  make  good  plants. 
These  shoots  may  be  pulled  from  the  plants,  and  by  re- 
moving some  of  the  lower  leaves  the  cuttings  may  be 


FIG.  6.     TWO  TYPES  OF  CARNATION  CUTTINGS. 

prepared  without  the  use  of  .a  knife.      The  terminal 
leaves,  if  very  long,  may  be  cut  back  (Fig.  6). 

Cuttings  may  be  rooted  either  in  propagating  beds 
or  in  boxes  of  sand.  The  bottom  of  the  bed  should  bo 
covered  with  a  thin  layer  of  cinders,  or  gravel,  and 
about  three  inches  of  clean,  sharp  sand  should  then  be 
put  on.  While  it  is  not  desirable  to  use  sand  that  is 
very  coarse  or  very  fine,  the  character  of  the  sand  makes 
comparatively  little  difference,  provided  it  is  not  of  a 
quicksand  nature  and  is  free  from  organic  matter.  The 
sand  should  be  compacted  and  thoroughly  wet  down, 


THE  CARNA.TION-.  29 

and  the  cuttings  set  in  rows  about  two  inches  apart  and 
three-quarters  of  an  inch  between  the  plants  in  the  rows. 
After  a  row  is  in  place,  the  soil  should  be  firmly  pressed 
about  them,  and  a  narrow  groove  made  for  another  row. 
The  cutting  bed  should  be  in  a  temperature  of  fifty 
to  fifty-five  degrees  at  night,  while  five  to  ten  degrees  of 
bottom  heat  are  desirable  but  not  necessary ;  during  the 
day  the  house  should  be  thoroughly  ventilated  and  the 
temperature  kept  as  near  sixty  degrees  as  possible. 
Unless  the  cutting  bed  is  in  a  north-side  house,  into 
which  no  direct  rays  can  enter,  the  cuttings  will  require 
shading  from  nine  until  three  o'clock  on  sunny  days, 
and  should  be  kept  rather  close  for  at  least  the  first 
week.  The  cuttings  should  not  be  allowed  to  get  dry, 
as,  if  the  lower  ends  of  the  cuttings  become  parched, 
they  may  as  well  be  thrown  out.  The  beds  should  be 
sprinkled  on  bright  mornings,  and  under  favorable  condi- 
tions roots  will  form  in  three  or  four  weeks. 

POTTING    OFF. 

As  soon  as  the  roots  have  developed,  the  plants 
should  be  placed  in  flats  of  good  soil,  or  in  beds,  at 
intervals  of  two  inches  each  way.  Some  growers  find 
that  it  pays  them  to  pot  off  the  cuttings,  using  two-inch 
rose  pots,  while  others  greatly  reduce  the  labor  by  keep- 
ing them  in  the  cutting  box  until  they  are  planted  in 
tlie  field.  Very  good  results  can  be  obtained  by  this 
method  with  late-struck  cuttings,  provided  an  inch  of 
rich  soil  is  placed  in  the  bottom  of  the  box,  and  covered 
with  two  inches  of  sand.  After  the  roots  have  been 
formed  in  the  sand,  they  will  find  their  way  into  the 
soil  below,  and  thus  obtain  nourishment  until  they  are 
planted  out.  After  being  boxed  or  potted  off,  the  young 
plants  should  be  kept  at  a  temperature  of  fifty  degrees 
until  they  have  become  well  established.  If,  during 
this  time,  any  of  the  plants  start  to  throw  up  a  flower 


30  GREENHOUSE  JUaKAGEMENT. 

stalk,  the  center  bud  should  be  pulled  out,  or  the  plant 
pinched  back,  and  all  future  attemjits  at  flowering 
should  be  checked  by  pulliug  out  the  terminal  leaves 
from  any  plaut  that  shows  the  least  tendency  towards  it. 
As  soon  as  the  plants  begin  to  thicken  up,  it  is  well 
to  remove  them  to  a  cool  house,  or  cold  pit,  where  the 
temjDerature  will  be  thirty-five  to  forty  degrees.  In  the 
case  of  the  December-struck  cuttings,  this  will  give 
them  an  opportunity  to  rest,  and  the  plant  will  be  less 
subject  to  disease  than  if  kept  growing  continuously 
throughout  the  winter.  At  any  rate,  it  is  desirable  that 
the  young  plants  be  established  in  the  boxes  by  the  first 
of  March,  that  they  may  be  removed  to  the  cold  frame 
early  in  April  and  become  sufficiently  hardened  to  be 
planted  out  between  the  20tli  of  April  and  the  first  of 
May.  The  planting  time  should  be  as  early  as  the 
ground  can  be  worked,  and  danger  of  severe  frost  is 
over.  If  taken  at  once  from  a  greenhouse,  they  would 
be  injured  by  the  least  frost,  but  if  gradually  hardened 
in  a  cold  frame,  a  slight  frost  will  not  injure  them. 

SOIL  FOR   CARNATION'S. 

Although  in  selecting  a  soil  for  planting  out  caraa- 
tions,  very  light  sand,  heavy  clay,  or  muck,  should  be 
avoided,  almost  any  average  loam  soil  adapted  to  the 
growing  of  vegetables  will  be  suitable  for  the  purpose. 
Given  a  congenial  climate,  and  a  medium  heavy  loam 
soil,  with  a  proj)er  supply  of  plant  food,  and  an  abun- 
dance of  moisture,  but  with  good  drainage,  there  will  be 
little  trouble  in  growing  carnations.  The  land  should 
be  well  enriched  with  decomposed  manure,  and  deeply 
plowed  the  previous  fall,  and  in  the  spring  plowed  and 
dragged  smooth.  If  manure  cannot  be  readily  obtained, 
one  thousand  pounds  per  acre  of  ground  bone,  or  dis- 
solved bone  black,  will  help  out.  The  rows  may  be  as 
narrow  as  one  foot,  or  as  wide  as  two  and  a  half,  or  two 


THE   CARJSTATION.  3] 

feet  and  ten  iuclies.  If  the  smaller  distance  is  nsed, 
every  ninth  row  should  not  be  planted,  and  the  soil 
worked  with  a  hand  cultivator,  while  the  larger  spaces 
between  the  rows  will  admit  of  cultivation  with  a  horse, 
which  will  greatly  lessen  the  amount  of  hand  labor  re- 
quired, and  where  land  is  not  high  priced,  this  practice 
should  be  employed  whenever  possible. 

PLANTING   OUT  AND   CULTIVATION. 

Having  marked  out  the  rows  at  the  distance  fixed 
upon,  the  ground  should  be  cross-marked  at  intervals  of 
from  ten  to  twelve  inches,  for  the  plants.  In  planting  the 
carnations,  they  should  be  set  deep  enough  so  that  they 
are  held  firmly  in  place.  If  this  is  neglected,  the  plants 
may  be  blown  about  and  i^erhaps  ruined,  but  care  should 
be  taken  that  they  are  not  too  deep,  as,  particularly  if  on 
wet,  heavy  soil,  and  in  a  wet  season,  they  will  be  apt  to  rot 
at  the  collar.  ■  Among  the  other  causes  that  may  produce 
stem  rot  is  injury  in  the  cutting  bed,  and  if  at  planting 
out  time  any  of  the  cuttings  appear  injured,  as  often  hap- 
pens from  too  much  water  with  too  high  a  temperature 
and  too  little  air,  they  should  not  be  planted. 

During  the  summer  the  plants  should  be  frequently 
cultivated,  thus  both  keeping  the  weeds  down  and,  by 
breaking  the  crust,  forming  a  mulch  conserving  the 
moisture.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  stir  the  soil  as  soon  as  it 
is  dry  after  every  rain,  and  even  if  no  rain  has  fallen 
and  no  weeds  are  in  sight,  a  shallow  cultivation  once  in 
four  or  five  days  during  the  summer  will  be  of  benefit 
to  the  plants.  If  the  soil  is  poor,  an  occasional  applica- 
tion of  liquid  manure,  or  bone  meal  is  often  desirable. 

The  only  additional  care  that  they  require  is  the 
pinching  out  of  all  flower  stalks  that  start,  as  soon  as 
four  or  five  offshoots  form  at  the  base  of  the  stem ;  this 
should  be  discontinued  by  the  middle  of  July  on  plants 
designed  for  early  blooming,  but  on  others  may  be  kept 
up  until  the  middle  of  August. 


32  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

On  light  soils  and  in  diy  seasons  irrigation  will  be 
of  great  value,  but  the  mere  wetting  of  the  surface  soil 
will  often  do  more  harm  than  good.  If  irrigation  is 
used  at  all,  it  should  be  sufficient  to  wet  the  soil  to  a 
depth  of  four  or  five  inches,  and  the  land  should  receive 
a  shallow  cultivation  before  the  surface  has  had  time  to 
bake. 

CAKNATION    HOUSES. 

Although  the  character  of  the  house  in  which  car- 
nations are  grown  has  less  to  do  with  the  success  ob- 
tained than  with  the  rose  and  some  of  the  other  croj^s, 
it  will  always  be  well  to  have  the  houses  planned  in 
such  a  way  as  to  secure  for  the  plants  the  most  favorable 
conditions.  While  almost  any  shape  of  house  will  an- 
swer, it  will  be  found  of  advantage  to  consider  the  con- 
ditions under  wiiicli  the  plants  are  to  be  grown  before 
making  a  selection.  The  principal  demand  and  the 
highest  price  for  the  flowers  is  during  the  dark,  dull 
weather  of  winter,  and  to  secure  blooms  at  that  time  it 
is  desirable  that  the  house  be  constructed  with  a  light 
framework  and  large  glass,  and  with  such  a  pitch  of  the 
roof  as  will  secure  the  most  light  and  heat  from  the  sun. 
This  will  generally  be  secured  in  a  three-quarter  span 
house  running  east  and  west,  and  good  results  can  be 
obtained  either  with  a  long  slope,  or  with  the  short 
slope  of  the  roof  to  the  south  (Fig.  7).  Where  a  suit- 
able location  can  be  secured,  a  form  of  house  that  was 
first  designed  for  growing  vegetables,  with  a  lean-to  roof 
and  a  width  of  from  thirty-five  to  fifty  feet,  will  be 
found  well  adapted  to  the  carnation.  If  a  slope  to  the 
south  of  about  fifteen  degrees  can  be  secured,  the  roof 
can  be  given  a  slone  of  about  twenty  degrees,  and  the 
north  wall  will  not  ne  unduly  hiirh  at  the  least  width 
mentioned,  but  for  greater  widths  the  house  can  be  built 
of  a  two-thirds  span,  or  less,  with  from  one-fourth  to 
one-eighth  of  its  roof  sloping  to  the  north.      If  the 


THE  CAliKATION. 


33 


34  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

three-quarter  span,  with  about  one-third  of  the  roof 
upon  one  side  of  the  ridge,  and  the  remainder  on  the 
other,  is  used,  it  will  seldom  be  desirable  to  have  the 
house  much  less  than  twenty  feet  wide. 

When  the  flowers  are  desired  during  the  fall  and 
early  winter,  it  becomes  necessary  to  plant  the  house 
early  in  the  summer;  and  to  grow  them  successfully 
during  the  hot  weather  it  is  desirable  that  provision  be 
made  for  the  removal  of  part  or  all  of  the  glass.  Some 
houses  for  this  purpose  have  the  roof  formed  of  hotbed 
sash,  that  can  be  quickly  taken  off  and  replaced,  while 
others  have  permanent  sash  bars,  with  butted  glass  held 
in  place  with  wooden  caps,  that  permit  a  part  of  the 
glass  to  be  removed  during  the  summer.  Other  growers 
find  it  well  to  provide  for  a  supply  of  blooms  during  the 
spring  and  early  summer,  and  unless  the  jilants  are 
flowered  in  the  beds  from  which  chrysanthemums  have 
been  removed,  as  mentioned  in  another  chapter,  special 
houses  will  be  needed.  It  will  generally  be  well  to  get 
them  well  established  in  the  fall,  and  to  carry  then- 
through  the  winter  in  a  state  of  rest,  at  a  low  tempera- 
ture. For  this  purpose,  a  north  and  south  even-span 
house  is  desirable,  and  if  one  has  an  old  style  house  with 
small  glass  and  heavy  framework,  it  can  be  put  to  no 
better  use. 

If  one  is  to  build  a  house  for  carnations,  it  will  be 
best  to  construct  it  after  some  of  the  forms  first  de- 
scribed, as,  if  at  any  time  it  is  no  longer  desired  for  car- 
nations, it  will  be  well  adapted  to  a  number  of  other 
crops.  As  the  crop  requires  thorough  ventilation,  it 
will  be  w'ell  to  have  a  continuous  row  of  ventihitojs  in 
the  south  wall,  and  at  least  one  row  at  the  ridge. 

GROWING   THE    PLANTS   IN    THE    HOUSES. 

Some  of  the  growers  have  adopted,  Avith  good  suc- 
cess, the  plan  of  growing  the  plants  during  the  summer 


THE  CAK^TATION.  35 

in  the  houses  in  jDermaiient  beds,  thus  saving  the  trouble 
of  transplanting,  and  they  chiim  that,  as  seems  quite 
probable,  the  plants  being  saved  from  any  check,  they 
are  less  likely  to  be  attacked  by  the  various  diseases  to 
which  this  ^jJant  is  subject.  As  the  plants  are  more 
closely  under  the  eyes  of  the  florist,  they  are  less  likely 
to  be  neglected  and  a  better  growth  can  be  secured,  pro- 
vided the  air  can  be  kept  suflBciently  cool  during  the  hot 
weather  of  summer. 

For  growing  plants  in  this  way,  it  is  desirable  that 
the  houses  should  be  large  and  airy,  and  unless  the  sash 
can  be  removed  from  at  least  one  side  of  the  roof  during 
the  summer,  abundant  side  ventilation  should  be  pro- 
vided. The  short-span-to-the-south  houses  seem  well 
adapted  for  this  purpose,  Avhile  the  even  span  is  prefer- 
able to  the  ordinary  three-quarter  span  form.  It  is 
almost  necessary  that  tlie  benches  be  deep  and  solid. 
For  a  house  twenty  feet  wide,  no  better  arrangement 
can  be  made  than  that  shown  in  Fig.  7,  with  two 
benches,  each  about  seven  feet  wide,  with  walks  at  the 
center  and  at  each  side  of  the  house.  Sub-irrigation  is 
especially  desirable  for  the  house-grown  plants,  and  this 
can  be  readily  arranged,  according  to  the  methods  ex- 
plained elsewhere  in  these  images. 

It  is  even  more  desirable  that  proper  soil  should  be 
provided  than  when  they  are  first  grown  in  the  field. 
It  should  be  not  less  than  eight  inches  thick,  and  should 
consist  of  from  one-half  to  two-thirds  rotten  sods,  the 
balance  being  decomposed  manure  and  sand,  in  propor- 
tion according  to  the  character  of  the  sods.  The  plants 
may,  if  desired,  be  given  one  shift  before  they  are 
planted  out,  but  it  is  desirable  that  they  be  placed  in 
the  beds  by  the  first  of  June.  Wlien  there  is  a  demand 
for  flowers  in  the  fall  it  is  a  good  plan  to  plant  in  the 
open  ground  some  of  the  early  varieties,  so  that  they 
can  be  covered  with  a  frame  when  cold  weather  comes 


36  GKEEKHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

in  the  fall.     They  will  bloom  freely  for  several  months 
and  the  slight  expense  will  be  well  repaid. 

BEDS    AND    BENCHES. 

The  plants  can  be  grown  either  in  raised  benches  or 
in  solid  beds,  which  in  either  case  will  be  about  the 
same  as  described  for  the  rose.  If  the  latter  are  used, 
care  should  be  taken  to  secure  thorougli  drainage,  but 
even  then,  unless  great  care  is  taken  in  watering,  the 
crop  will  not  be  as  early  as  on  raised  benches,  although 
the  flowers  will  be  larger  and  have  better  stems,  and  the 
plants  will  give  more  blooms  during  the  spring  and 
summer.  The  bed  can  have  its  sides  formed  of  plank, 
but  it  will  be  neater  and  cheaper  in  the  end  if  cement  or 
brick  is  used.  Being  near  the  level  of  the  walks,  it 
will  be  easier  to  get  the  soil  upon  them  than  on  the 
benches,  as  the  Avheelbarrow  can  be  run  upon  ther.i. 
The  bed  also  has  the  advantage  of  permitting  the  hold- 
ing of  the  flowers  for  several  days ;  the  shallow  bench, 
on  the  other  hand,  renders  possible  the  forcing  of  the 
flowers  for  a  certain  occasion. 

Unless  there  is  some  reason  for  wisliing  early  flow- 
ers, the  solid  bed  will  be  generally  preferable,  although 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  a  solid  bed  in  the  center  of  the 
house,  with  raised  side  benches.  Fur  the  solid  beds, 
about  eight  inches  of  soil  will  be  required,  while  four  or 
five  inches  will  answer  for  the  raised  benches.  The  soil 
may  vary,  according  to  circumstances,  but  a  good  mix- 
ture is  prepared  from  six  parts  of  good  garden  loam  and 
one  part  of  decomposed  manure.  To  this,  if  the  soil  is 
inclined  to  be  heavy,  may  be  added  one  part  of  shar]i 
sand.  For  the  shallow  benches  a  larger  proportion  of 
manure  is  desirable.  Another  method  of  prc])aring  ihe. 
soil  for  the  benches  is  to  top-dress  a  piece  of  land  early 
in  the  summer  and  turn  It  under,  sowing  upon  it,  in 
July,  crimson  clover  at  the  rate  of  ten  quarts  to  the  acre. 


THE    CARNATIO:^-.  37 

In  severe  climates  rye  may  be  used  instead.  They 
should  be  turned  under  early  in  the  spring,  before  they 
have  formed  their  heads,  and  will  supply  the  needed 
fiber  to  the  soil.  The  land  should  be  worked  during 
the  summer,  and  will  be  ready  for  filling  the  beds.  A 
similar  preparation  of  the  soil,  where  the  plants  are  to 
be  set  in  the  field,  is  a  good  practice. 

Our  experiments  with  greenhouse  sub-irrigation 
show  that  it  has  many  advantages,  which  are  explained 
under  that  heading.  If  early  flowers  are  desired,  they 
should  be  benched  from  the  middle  of  July  to  the  mid- 
dle of  August,  but  to  be  successful  the  house  should 
have  ample  ventilation.  The  first  of  September  is  as 
late  as  the  benching  of  any  of  the  plants  intended  for 
early  winter  use  should  be  delayed,  but  good  results 
may  be  secured  from  late  flowering  kinds  if  they  are 
boxed  off  before  severe  frosts  come,  and  are  kept  in  deep 
cold  frames  until  tlie  chrysanthemums  are  out  of  the 
way,  when  they  may  be  set  in  the  beds,  or  if  the  boxes 
are  deep  the  plants  can  be  left  in  them.  This  is  an 
excellent  way  of  handling  Hinze's  White. 

It  is  desirable  to  have  the  planting  ground  near  the 
houses,  so  that  the  plants  maybe  placed  in  hand-barrows 
and  carried  to  the  houses,  but  ii  the  soil  near  by  is  not 
suitable  it  is  better  to  go  to  some  distance,  as  the  plants 
can  then  be  readily  handled  if  placed  in  boxes,  loaded 
on  a  wagon  and  drawn  to  the  houses.  If  the  soil  will 
fall  from  the  roots  without  breaking  tliem,  no  attempt 
should  be  made  to  retain  it,  but  if  it  clings  to  theni  it  will 
be  better  to  take  up  a  ball  of  earth  and  place  it  in  the  bed, 
provided  it  is  not  unsuitable  for  use  in  the  house.  If  the 
plants  are  growing  in  soil  that  has  become  baked,  unless 
the  land  can  be  irrigated  it  will  be  necessary  to  delay 
planting  until  a    rain  comes  to  soften  it. 

PLANTING    THE   HOUSES. 

Having  filled  the  beds  with  soil,  when  the  proper 
time  comes  for  plantirr  '*;  :'£:  well,  if  one  has  but  a  few 


38  GRESNHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

plants,  to  select  a  dull  clay  for  the  planting,  or,  if  it 
does  not  come,  the  plants  may  be  dug  in  the  early  morn- 
ing and  placed  away  in  the  flats  in  some  cool  place  nntil 
towards  evening.  With  large  numbers  of  plants  this 
will  not  be  possible. 

The  distance  required  by  the  plants  in  the  houses 
will  depend  upon  the  variety,  the  size  tliey  have  attained 
in  the  field,  and  on  whether  a  large  number  of  com- 
paratively small  flowers  is  preferred  to  a  smaller  num- 
ber of  large  ones.  For  the  former,  plant  so  that 
they  will  touch,  or  eight  or  nine  inches  each  way, 
while  for  large  flowers  have  them  at  least  a  foot 
apart.  Many  growers  prefer  to  have  the  long  rows 
eight  to  ten  inches  aj)art,  and  those  across  the  beds 
from  ten  to  twelve  or  more,  thus  giving  a  better  chance 
to  w^ork  the  soil. 

Dig  a  good-sized  hole  with  the  hand  or  trowel,  and 
set  the  jDlants  about  as  deep  as  in  the  field,  carefully 
spreading  out  the  roots  and  pressing  the  soil  firmly 
about  them.  As  soon  as  planted  they  should  be  thor- 
oughly watered,  and  in  bright  weather  shaded  for  sev- 
eral days,  but  as  soon  as  the  ^jlants  have  become  estab- 
lished some  or  all  of  the  shading  should  be  i-emoved, 
using  a  stream  of  water  and  a  scrub  brush  if  whitewash 
has  been  used.  As  a  temporary  shading,  nothing  is 
better  than  to  spray  over  the  roof  a  thin  mixture  of 
water  and  clay,  which  can  be  readily  removed.  During 
hot  weather  it  is  well  to  leave  every  other  row  of  the 
shading  upon  the  roof. 

The  houses  will  need  thorough  ventilation,  although, 
upon  the  newly  set  plants,  drafts  of  hot,  dry  air  should 
be  prevented.  Even  in  severe  winter  weather,  unless 
the  houses  are  very  open,  a  little  air  should  be  given  for 
a  short  time  each  day.  It  is  possible  that  one  reason 
why  such  fine  flowers  are  often  grown  in  old,  tumble- 
down houses,  is  that  the  cracks  admit  fresh  air  and  let 


THE  CARNATIOlir.  39 

out  the  heat  when  the  houses  are  neglected  and  are 
not  opened. 

WATERING  AND  VENTILATING. 

Most  carnations  thrive  best  in  a  temperature  at 
night  of  about  fifty  degrees,  and  although  they  will  give 
quicker  results  at  sixty  degrees,  the  blooms  will  be  small 
and  the  plants  will  be  quickly  exhausted,  so  that  in  the 
course  of  the  season  the  number  of  the  flowers  will  not 
be  half  as  great  as  in  the  cooler  house.  On  the  other 
hand,  when  kept  at  forty  or  forty-five  degrees  the  plants 
will  flower  later,  but  as  few  will  be  produced  during  the 
winter,  they  will  be  able  to  give  quite  a  crop  as  the 
warm  weather  of  spring  comes  on,  at  which  time,  how- 
ever, there  is  less  call  for  them  and  the  prices  rule  much 
lower  than  during  the  winter.  During  the  day  the  tem- 
perature will  be  determined  largely  by  that  of  the  air 
outside  and  the  amount  of  sunshine,  but  in  a  clear  day 
it  can  run  up  to  sixty-five  or  seventy-five  degrees  with 
advantage,  provided  the  air  is  on  the  houses.  It  will 
probably  be  well  to  hold  down  to  those  temperatures,  if 
it  can  be  done  by  ventilating  the  houses  and  not  secure 
too  much  of  a  draft  of  cold  air.  Air  should  be  given  at 
fifty-five  or  sixty  degrees,  and  this  is  high  enough  for 
the  day  temi^erature  in  dull  weather. 

Until  the  plants  have  become  established,  they  will 
take  but  little  water  from  the  soil,  and,  after  the  firut 
wetting  down  of  the  bed,  care  should  be  taken  not  to 
add  more  until  examination  shows  that  it  has  become 
slightly  dry,  when  another  watering  should  be  given, 
sufiicient  to  wet  down  through  the  soil.  This  will  be  a 
good  rule  to  follow  throughout  the  year.  After  the 
plants  are  established,  during  the  hot  weather  of  Sep- 
tember and  October,  and  during  the  spring,  careful 
watching  is  often  necessary  to  prevent  the  suffering  of 
tJie  plants  from  lack  of  water,  as,  particularly  wheo 


40  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

the  heating  pipes  are  under  the  benches,  the  roots  may 
be  in  soil  as  dry  as  ashes,  although  the  top  soil  may  be 
quite  wet.  On  the  other  hand,  serious  injury  may  occur 
when  too  much  water  is  used,  pai'ticularly  on  solid  beds 
during  the  dark  days  of  winter,  but  if  the  above  rule  is 
observed,  the  danger  of  injury  will  be  greatly  reduced. 
The  use  of  too  much  water,  especially  if  accompanied 
by  a  high  temperature,  without  ventilation,  is  likely  to 
cause  the  development  of  galls  upon  the  roots,  and  if 
numerous,  the  entire  crop  may  be  ruined,  and  it  will 
often  result  in  the  rotting  of  the  stems  and  lower  leaves, 
even  though  the  galls  do  not  appear. 

On  the  other  hand,  water  should  be  used  freely  in 
syringing  tlie  plants,  wetting  the  soil  as  little  as  possible, 
for  the  fii'st  few  days  after  planting,  repeating  whenever 
the  foliage  becomes  dry,  and  upon  warm,  bright  days 
throughout  the  season,  but  it  should  only  be  done  early 
in  the  day,  in  order  that  the  foliage  may  dry  off,  as,  if 
it  remains  moist  over  night,  it  will  invite  the  presence  of 
the  rust  and  other  fungi.  During  dull  weather  the 
plants  should  not  be  syringed,  and  care  should  be  taken, 
when  it  becomes  necessary  to  apply  water  to  the  soil, 
that  it  does  not  wet  the  foliage.  If  there  is  clanger  of 
the  air  becoming  so  dry  as  to  invite  the  appearance  of 
the  red  spider,  water  can  be  used  freely  on  the  walks 
and  about  the  house,  and  in  this  way  the  needed  mois- 
ture will  be  provided. 

STAKING   AND   TEELLISING. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  have  become  established,  ar- 
rangements should  be  made  for  supporting  them.  For- 
merly wooden  or  cane  stakes  were  used  for  the  purpose, 
but  they  were  not  firm  enough  in  the  soil  of  shallow 
beds,  and  the  ends  quickly  rotted  off.  In  tying  the 
stems  to  the  stakes,  they  are  generally  so  drawn  together 
that  growth  is  hindered,  and  when  it  comes  to  cutting 


THE   CARNATION". 


41 


the  flowers  it  often  becomes  necessary  to  cut  tlie  ties,  in 
order  to  get  the  stems  out  unbroken.  The  same  objec- 
tions, except  the  decay  of  the  stakes,  apply  to  the  use  of 


THE    EOBAN    StJPPOBT. 


FIG  8.     CARNATION  SUPPORTS. 

rods  of  galvanized  wire,  but  with  the  rods  firmness  can 
be  secured  by  fastening  them  at  the  upper  end  to  wires 
stretched  above  the  bed,  while  the  plants  can  be  tied 


42  GREENnOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

more  loosely  if  two  stakes  are  used  to  eacli  plant,  or, 
better  yet,  by  bending  No.  9  galvanized  wire  into  the 
shape  of  a  hairpin,  a  sujiport  will  be  formed  that  answers 
fairly  well.  There  are  also  a  number  of  individual  sup- 
ports that  have  been  brought  out,  and  in  several  in- 
stances patented,  during  the  last  two  years.  Their 
appearance  is  slioAvn  in  Fig.  8.  Several  of  tliem  are  of 
simple  construction  and  are  sold  quite  cheaply,  so  that 
in  time  they  will  be  no  more  expensive  than  the  perish- 
able wooden  stakes.  In  most  cases  they  are  designed  to 
keep  the  lower  leaves  off  the  soil,  and  also  to  support 
the  flower  stalks.  Nearly  all  of  them  are  preferable  to 
the  single  stakes,  but  most  of  them  confine  the  stems 
rather  more  closely  than  is  desirable. 

The  Lonsdale  stake,  with  a  single  ring,  is  only 
adapted  to  small-growing,  slender  varieties,  but  this 
stake  with  two  rings,  or  some  of  the  other  kinds  with 
two  or  more,  answers  fairly  well  except  for  the  strong- 
growing  sorts,  where  some  method  that  Avill  support 
them  without  confining  them  so  closely  will  be  better. 
The  Horan  support  shown  in  Fig.  8  has  the  disadvan- 
tage of  being  expensive  and  of  being  easily  disarranged, 
but  it  serves  its  jjurpose  well.  A  home-made  form,  de- 
signed by  a  Detroit  florist,  has  heavy  galvanized  wire 
for  the  bows  at  the  ends,  and  to  these  smaller  cross 
wires  are  fastened.  Between  them  common  twine  is 
woven  to  support  the  leaves  and  stems,  so  that  in  a  gen- 
eral way  it  is  mach  like  the  Horan  support. 

Among  the  first  to  experiment  with  carnation  sup- 
potts  was  Fred  Dornor,  of  Lafayette,  Ind.,  who  finally 
designed  a  support  that  has  been  extensively  used  by 
florists  all  over  the  country,  and  with  slight  modifica- 
tions has  been  found  adapted  to  houses  of  strong-grow- 
ing varieties.  He  used,  to  support  the  lower  leaves, 
galvanized  wire  chicken  netting  with  a  fine  mesh  (Fisr. 
9),  cut  into  strips  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  in  vidtlj. 


THE  CARNATION. 


43 


44  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

These  are  bent  into  an  inverted  Y  shape,  well  rounded 
over  the  top,  and  pre  placed  between  the  rows  of  plants 
crosswise  of  the  bod.  To  support  the  floAver  stems,  he 
stretches  No.  12  galvanized  wire  lengthwise  of  the  beds 
about  a  foot  apart,  and  npon  these  weaves  a  diamond- 
shaped  mesh  with  cotton  twine,  as  is  shown  in  the  illus- 
tration (Fig.  10).  Two  men  on  opposite  sides  of  the 
bed  can  pass  the  twine  back  and  forth  quite  rapidly,  at 
the  same  time  giving  it  a  twist  about  each  of  the  wires. 

The  principal  objection  to  the  wire  netting  is  that 
the  meshes  are  so  large  that  the  stems  often  become 
tangled  in  them  and  are  much  crowded,  and  that  it  is 
somewhat  lacking  in  stiffness  to  stand  up  well.  To  cor- 
rect these  failings,  several  have  tried  galvanized  wire 
lathing,  which  has  a  half-inch  square  mesh  (Fig.  11), 
and  find  that  it  answers  much  better  in  both  respects. 
Another  modification  is  in  the  weaving  to  support  the 
stems,  where,  instead  of  the  diamond-shaped  mesh  with 
wires  a  foot  or  so  apart,  there  is  a  No.  18  wire  stretched 
lengthwise  of  the  beds  each  side  of  every  row  of  plants, 
and  to  hold  the  stems  in  place  the  other  way,  across  the 
beds  other  wires  or  twine  are  placed,  so  as  to  form  meshes 
from  four  to  six  inches  square,  through  which  the  stems 
will  grow.  If  this  is  placed  six  or  eight  inches  above 
the  top  of  the  A-shaped  lathing,  it  will  hold  the  stems  so 
loosely  that  it  will  be  little  hindrance  in  gathering  flow- 
ers or  cuttings.  One  of  the  advantages  of  the  A-shaped 
lathing  is  that  it  keeps  the  leaves  from  resting  on  the 
damp  soil,  and  as  the  hose,  when  watering,  can  be  held 
beneath  it,  there  is  little  need  of  wetting  the  leaves,  and 
thus  the  danger  for  disease  is  greatly  reduced.  By  lift- 
ing the  leaves  from  the  bed  it  also  permits  the  air  to  cir- 
culate and  aids  in  the  drying  out  of  the  soil. 

Whether  the  individual  rings  or  the  wire  lathing 
are  used,  the  best  rci-nlts  can  only  be  secured  when  they 
are  in  place  before  the  Cower  buds  form,  as  then  it  will 


THE  CAENATION. 


45 


46  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

be  but  little  trouble  to  induce  them  to  enter  the  rings 
or  meshes  as  desired,  while  if  they  have  fallen  over  and 
sprawled  out  over  the  bed  before  the  supports  are  in 
place,  it  will  be  more  difficult  to  secure  stout  stems  and 
the  desired  straight  upwaid  growth.  If  they  are  early 
in  place,  little  time  will  be  required  in  training  the 
stems,  and  the  houses  will  present  a  very  neat  appear- 
ance. Before  one  decides  what  method  of  training  to 
adopt,  it  will  be  well  to  visit  houses  in  which  the  differ- 
ent forms  are  in  use,  or  to  experiment  upon  a  small 
scale  before  investing  largely  in  any  of  them.  The  best 
support  is  the  one  that  offers  least  obstruction  to  han- 
dling the  plants,  cutting  the  flowers  and  working  the 
soil.  Their  cheapness,  durability  and  simi)licity  should, 
also  be  considered.  As  stated  above,  the  slender,  up- 
right-growing varieties  will  be  best  supported  by  some 
of  the  methods  first  described,  while  the  strong,  rank- 
growing  varieties  will  do  better  with  the  lathing  and 
overhead  mesh.  If  desired,  the  A-shaped  netting  can 
be  used  with  the  individual  wire  supports. 

DISBUDDING. 

While  it  will  not  pay  for  all  localities  and  with  all 
varieties,  disbudding  is  almost  essential  for  large  mar- 
kets where  there  is  strong  competition  and  a  demand  at 
a  good  price  for  large,  single  flowers,  on  long  and  strong 
stems.  Disbudding  consists  in  the  removal  of  all  the 
flower  buds  upon  a  stem  except  the  strongest  one  at  the 
tip,  or,  as  carnations  are  now  used,  a  spray  of  three  or 
four  slightly  smaller  flowers  is  also  desirable,  and  we  can 
aid  in  its  formation  by  pinching  out  the  terminal  bud 
and  thus  favoring  the  development  of  the  side  buds. 
If  disbudding  is  to  be  practiced,  the  plants  shonld  be 
looked  over  once  in  t\vo  weeks  at  most,  and  at  the  same 
time  all  needed  tying  and  training  of  the  shoots  should 
be  done.     As  a  rule,  growers  who  market  their  crops 


THE  CARNATION. 


47 


48  GKEENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

near  home  can  grow  tlieir  plants  under  high  culture 
and  secure  large  flowers  and  long,  stout  stems,  but  if  to 
be  shipped  long  distances  they  will  need  to  be  grown 
with  a  firmer  texture,  that  they  may  withstand  hard 
usage. 

TOP-DRESSING   AND   LIQUID   MANURING. 

The  requirements  of  the  crop  will  depend  upon  the 
character  of  the  soil  used  for  the  beds.  If  composed  of 
loam,  stable  manure  and  ground  bone,  the  plants  will  be 
able  to  obtain  food  for  several  months,  but  by  the  first 
of  November  it  will  generally  be  well  to  apply  ground 
bone  to  the  surface  of  the  bed,  and  from  that  time  on 
to  give  the  plants  an  application  of  liquid  manure  once 
in  two  weeks.  The  application  of  a  peck  of  wood  ashes 
to  each  hundred  square  feet  of  bed  once  in  six  or  eight 
weeks  will  be  especially  desirable  in  giving  strength  to 
the  stems.  For  the  further  discussion  of  the  use  of 
manures  and  fertilizers  -for  carnations  and  other  crops, 
the  reader  is  referred  to  the  chapter  on  that  subject. 

GENERAL  CARE  OF  THE  HOUSES. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  have  become  established,  the 
surface  of  the  beds  should  be  stirred,  to  keep  down  the 
weeds  and  to  loosen  it,  that  the  growth  of  the  roots  may 
be  stimulated  and  the  food  supply  increased.  This 
sliould  be  kept  up  during  the  season,  but  it  should  not 
be  deep  enough  to  injure  the  roots.  All  dead  and  dis- 
eased leaves  should  be  picked  off,  and  all  litter  removed 
from  the  beds. 

The  carnation  is  less  troubled  by  insects  than  most 
flowers.  The  green  fly  is  about  the  only  one  that  will 
require  especial  treatment,  and  for  this  the  usual  rem- 
edies can  be  used.  The  danger  of  the  appearance  of 
insects  and  fungous  diseases  will  be  greatly  reduced,  pro- 
vided the  conditions  under  which  the  plants  are  grown 
are  suited  to  them;  and  if  tliey  are  so  handled  tiiat  they 


THE   CARNATION".  49 

receive  no  dieck,  the  need  of  making  use  of  insecticides 
and  fungicides  will  be  greatly  lessened. 

The  soil  upon  the  shallow  beds  should  be  replaced 
each  year,  but  upon  deep,  solid  beds  only  the  surface 
need  be  removed,  as,  unless  it  has  become  wet  and  sour, 
it  will  only  require  the  addition  of  manure  and  a  little 
fresh  soil  to  grow  another  crop.  If  soil  is  hard  to  obtain 
for  the  beds,  the  old  soil  may  be  used  again,  if  it  is 
spread  out  thin  and  seeded  with  rye  in  August.  By 
turning  this  under,  and  adding  a  good  dressing  of 
manure  in  the  spring,  it  will  be  sweetened  and  supplied 
with  the  needed  fiber  and  plant  food. 

Among  the  trials  of  the  carnation  grower  are  the 
troubles  known  as  the  "bursting  of  the  calyx,"  and  the 
"sleep  of  the  carnation."  The  former  is  most  common 
when  the  plants  have  been  stimulated  by  high  feeding, 
or  grown  at  a  high  temperature  and  in  a  moist  air.  It 
is  particularly  likely  to  occur  if  the  plants  have  pre- 
viously been  kejDt  quite  cool.  What  is  commonly  known 
as  "sleep"  in  carnations  may  also  be  due  to  a  variety  of 
causes.  Among  them  are  sudden  and  extreme  changes 
of  temperature,  too  close,  too  hot,  or  too  dry  an  atmos- 
phere, too  much  smoke,  gas,  lack  of  water,  some  injury 
to  the  roots,  too  much  fertilizer,  and  anything  else  that 
can  disturb  the  nutrition  of  the  plant. 

VARIETIES. 

With  the  large  number  of  seedlings  that  are  brought 
out  each  year  it  is  not  probable  that  any  list  can  be  given 
that  will  be  of  permanent  value,  although  in  the  points 
that  go  to  make  up  a  good  carnation  the  following  vari- 
eties stand  quite  high,  and  will  probably  be  found  valu- 
able for  several  years.  The  commercial  grower  will  do 
best  to  confine  himself,  for  the  most  part,  to  a  few  stand- 
ard sorts  that  he  has  tested,  and  which  do  well  with  his 
soil  and  care,  but  in  order  that  he  may  keep  up  with  the 
4 


50 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


times  and  be  ready  to  compete  successfully,  he  sliould, 
each  year,  test  a  few  of  the  more  promising  new  vari- 
eties, to  learn  if  they  will  be  better  for  him  than  his  old 
kinds. 

Of  the  older  sorts,  those  most  grown  are  the  Lizzie 
McGowan  and  Silver  Spray,  white  ;  Daybreak  and  Wm. 


FIG  12.  DAYBREAK  CARNATIONS. 


Scott,  pink ;  Portia  and  Stuart,  red;  and  Goldfinch  and 
Bouton  d'Or,  yellow.     Formerly,  the  white  sorts  were 


THE  CARIfATION".  51 

grown  in  larger  numbers  than  all  other  colors  put 
together,  but  the  increased  use  of  the  carnation,  for  pur- 
poses of  decoration,  has  caused  a  very  large  demand  for 
the  varieties  of  the  various  shades  of  pink,  and,  as  a 
result,  the  varieties  of  that  color  are  now  grown  very 
extensively.  Lizzie  McGowan  is  the  standard  sort  of  its 
color;  it  likes  a  light  house,  but  does  well  on  either 
beds  or  benches.  The  temperature  should  not  be  much 
below  fifty  degrees  at  night.  As  the  plant  is  a  slow 
grower,  it  should  be  planted  early.  It  is  a  rather  slen- 
der, upright  grower,  with  large,  regular,  pure  white 
flowers.  Silver  Spray  is  a  desirable,  early  flowering, 
white  sort,  coming  in  before  the  chrysanthemums.  It 
sometimes  produces  defective  flowers,  but,  as  a  rule,  they 
are  quite  perfect,  upon  long,  stout  stems.  The  plants 
bear  freely,  and  the  flowers  keep  well. 

Among  the  new  sorts,  the  Ivory  is  particularly 
promising.  The  plant  seems  to  be  vigorous,  productive 
and  quite  free  from  disease ;  the  flowers  are  a  clear, 
ivory  white,  regular,  and  of  a  delicate  fragrance;  the 
petals  are  large,  well-fringed,  and  supported  by  a  strong 
calyx  and  a  stout,  long  stem.  Among  the  other  new 
sorts  are  Storm  King  and  Alaska. 

Of  the  pink  varieties,  none  have  been  more  success- 
ful than  Daybreak  (Fig.  12).  It  is  quite  healthy,  flow- 
ers freely,  and  the  plants  are  strong  and  vigorous.  It 
does  best  on  a  rather  heavy  soil  and  in  solid  beds,  as  it 
is  less  likely  to  burst  its  calyx  and  form  side  buds  than 
when  in  shallow  beds.  The  flowers  are  large,  well- 
formed,  of  good  color,  and  genei-ally  sell  at  the  highest 
price.  Wm.  Scott  is  a  good  companion  for  .the  last 
variety.  It  has  strong  and  healthy  plants,  and  the  flow- 
ers are  large,  regular,  and  even  in  color,  and  are  borne 
on  long,  stout  stems.  The  flowers  are  produced  freely 
tod  have  good  keeping  qualities.  Of  the  other  sorts, 
Ma(3.  Piaz  Albertini  is  one  of  the  best,     Th.e  flowery 


53  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

are  larger  tlian  Daybreak,  very  double,  and  with  less 
tendency  to  fade.  The  growth  is  strong,  close,  and 
healthy,  the  stems  are  strong,  the  calyx  seldom  bursts 
and  the  flowers  are  very  sweet  scented,  but  in  the  hands 
of  many  growers  it  has  the  serious  drawback  of  being  a 
shy  bearer.     Of  the  other  pink  sorts,  Grace  Darling  and 


FIG.  13.      MRS.   GEO.   M.   BRADT    CARNATION.       INTRODUCED    BT    FRED 
CORNER  &  SON. 

Annie   Pixley  may  be  spoken   of   as   having  desirable 
features. 

Of  the  red  or  scarlet  varieties,  few  stand  better  with 
most  growers  than  Portia,  which  has  a  very  strong  and 
vigorous  plant,  and  the  flowers  are  of  a  good  color  and 
substance,  on  stout  stems.  While  Stuart  is  perhaps  not 
as  productive  as  Portia,  the  plants  are  very  vigorous  and 
healthy,  and  the  increased  size  of  the  flowers  adds  con- 


THE   CARNATION".  53 

siderably  to  its  market  value.  Emily  Pierson  is  a  prom- 
ising late  scarlefc  sort,  and  as  the  flowers,  when  well 
grown,  are  very  large,  they  bring  a  high  price. 

Of  the  yellow  sorts.  Goldfinch  has  a  splendid  plant, 
and  has  generally  superseded  Bouton  d'Or  and  the  older 
kinds.      Mayor   Pingree   is  a  promising   new   variety, 

Helen  Keller  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  variegatei 
varieties,  but  it  frequently  is  nearly  a  failure,  and  at 
best  is  not  much  in  demand.  Among  the  variegated 
kinds  recently  introduced,  Mrs.  Geo.  M.  Bradt  (Fig.  13) 
is  particularly  worthy  of  trial. 

In  addition  to  a  long  list  of  comparatively  untested 
varieties,  there  are  several  sorts  that  are  being  largely 
planted,  and  which  thus  fur  seem  very  promising. 
Among  them  are  Eose  Queen,  Bridesmaid,  Meteor  and 
Lizzie  Gilbert.  Uncle  John,  although  very  successfully 
grown  by  its  originator  and  many  others,  has  not  been 
generally  successful,  and  its  culture  is  even  now  given 
up  by  many  growers.  Morello  is  a  new  dark  red  or 
maroon  variety,  with  large,  firm  flowers  on  long,  stout 
stems.  It  has  a  rich  odor,  and  the  plants  seem  healthy 
and  prolific.  Of  the  older  varieties.  Tidal  Wave,  Gar- 
field, Mrs.  Fisher  and  Hinze's  White  are  still  grown 
extensively. 


CHAPTER  III. 

THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

For  hundreds,  if  not  thousands,  of  years,  this  plant 
has  been  held  in  high  esteem  by  the  inhabitants  of  China 
and  Japan.  In  the  latter  country,  a  festival  is  held  in 
honor  of  this,  the  national  flower,  and  the  nobles,  as 
well  as  the  peasants,  enter  into  the  festivities.  The 
highest  of  all  Japanese  decorations  is  the  Imperial  Order 
of  the  Chrysanthemum,  which  is  only  conferred  upon 
persons  of  royal  birth,  or,  in  rare  instances,  upon  the 
nobility,  and  is  regarded  as  a  high  distinction,  even  by 
foreigners. 

The  chrysanthemum  was  introduced  into  Europe 
about  two  hundred  years  ago,  but  was  not  generally 
esteemed  until  the  first  part  of  the  present  century. 
The  first  European  seedlings  were  grown  in  1827,  and 
the  interest  excited  at  that  time  has  been  kept  up,  by 
the  curiosity  and  admiration  over  the  develoiiments  that 
have  from  time  to  time  been  made.  The  present  cen- 
tury probably  covers  the  history  of  the  chrysanthemum 
in  America,  and  it  is  said  that  the  first  American  seed- 
lings of  any  vahie  were  raised  as  recently  as  1879,  by  Dr. 
Walcott,  of  Cambridge,  Mass.  Since  that  time  the 
interest  has  rapidly  increased,  until  it  is  now  the  favorite 
flower  of  its  season.  The  attention  given  to  developing 
new  varieties  from  seed  has  given  us  hundreds  of  kinds, 
many  of  which  excel  in  size,  color,  and  form  the  best 
that  have  been  imported.  Among  those  who  have  done 
most  to  popularize  the  chrysanthemum  by  importation 
of  the  best  Oriental  and  European  seedlings,  or  by  grow^- 
64 


THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM.  55 

ing  seedlings  themselves,  are  Dr.  H.  P.  Walcott  of  Mas- 
sachusetts, H.  Waterer,  Wm.  K.  Harris  and  Kobert  Craig 
of  Pennsylvania,  T.  H.  Spaulding,  John  N.  May  and 
Pitcher  &  Manda  of  New  Jersey,  John  Thorpe  and  V. 
H.  Hallock  &  Son  of  New  York,  Fewkes  &  Sons,  and 
Wood  Bros.,  of  Massachusetts,  E.  G.  Hill  &  Co.,  F. 
Dorner  and  H.  W.  Eieman  of  Indiana,  and  Nathan 
Smith  &  Sons  of  Michigan. 

PROPAGATION"   BY  SEEDS. 

New  varieties  are  obtained  by  planting  the  seeds  of 
the  most  promising  sorts,  and  if  the  flowers  have  beer 
cross-fertilized  with  pollen  from  plants  of  other  desira- 
ble varieties,  it  is  probable  that  some  of  the  seedlings 
will  show  characteristics  that  will  make  them  equal,  or 
superior,  to  the  parents.  The  per  cent  of  plants  that 
will  show  any  value  will  be  quite  small,  however,  and 
perhaps  nine-tenths  of  them  will  be  discarded  after  one 
year's  trial.  The  j)lants  designed  to  be  used  as  parents 
should  be  grown  in  small  pots,  and  when  the  flowers 
develop,  they  should  be  placed  in  a  dry  room,  where 
there  will  be  an  abundance  of  sunlight  and  air.  The 
largest  and  most  perfect  flowers  should  be  selected,  and 
all  others  removed  as  they  develop.  When  the  flowers 
are  fully  open,  the  rays  should  be  cut  with  a  pair  of 
shears,  just  above  the  stamens  and  pistils.  As  soon  as 
the  pollen  has  ripened,  it  should  be  conveyed  upon  a 
camel's-hair  brush,  or  a  toothpick,  to  the  stigm.is  of 
another  plant.  To  secure  the  best  results,  this  should 
be  repeated  for  several  days.  It  is  thought  by  some  that 
the  flowers  farthest  from  the  center  are  most  likiBly  to 
produce  good  flowers. 

In  selecting  the  parents,  the  objects  to  be  attained 
should  be  kept  in  mind,  and  the  choice  should  be  care- 
fully made.  If  it  is  desired  to  know  the  exact  parent- 
age, it  is  well  to  cover  the  flowers  with  paper  or  muslin 


56  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

sacks,  for  a  few  days  before  and  after  pollinating. 
While  the  seed  is  ripening,  the  plants  should  be  kept 
quite  dry,  and  if  proper  surroundings  cannot  be  given  to 
the  plants,  the  stems  may  be  cut  off  and  placed  where 
they  will  not  be  in  moist  air.  The  seedlings  are  grown 
much  the  same  as  tliose  of  other  plants,  and  require, 
after  being  potted  off,  about  the  same  care  as  those 
grown  from  cuttings. 

PROPAGATIOX   BY    CUTTINGS. 

The  usual  method  of  propagating  chrysanthemums 
is  by  means  of  cuttings.  If  large  plants  are  desired, 
they  are  started  in  January  or  February,  but  wlien  large 
blooms  are  wanted  for  exhibition  purposes,  the  cuttings 
are  often  started  as  late  as  May  or  June,  and  the  plants 
are  grown  to  single  stems  and  allowed  to  develop  but  one 
flower. 

In  order  to  grow  healthy  plants  that  will  give  large 
and  fine  flowers,  strong  and  vigorous  cuttings  will  be  nec- 
essary, and  they  will  be  best  if  they  ai-e  taken  from 
plants  that  have  not  been  forced.  It  is  a  good  plan  to 
select  strong  ^^lants  in  the  spring  and  plant  them  out  of 
doors  as  early  as  it  is  safe.  PYom  these  stock  plants, 
cuttings  can  be  taken  that  will  give  good  plants  for  sin- 
gle flowers.  In  the  fall,  take  up  the  old  plants,  place  in 
boxes,  and  keep  until  midwinter  in  a  cold  frame  where 
they  will  not  freeze.  Then  take  into  the  house,  and  a 
large  crop  of  excellent  cuttings  can  be  obtained.  Tiie 
earlier  ones  will  be  just  the  thing  for  pot  plants  and  for 
planting  out  as  stock  plants. 

In  April,  another  crop  of  cuttings  should  be  taken. 
These  will  answer  for  six-inch  pot  plants,  and  for  either 
single  stems  or  ''sprays,"  to  bo  planted  in  the  houses  for 
cut  flowers.  Another  crop  of  cuttings  can  be  taken  in 
June,  but  it  will  be  better  to  take  them  from  plants  set 
in  the  open  ground,  as  recommended  above.     While  most 


THE    CHRYSANTHEMUM.  57 

of  the  cuttings  for  late  blooms  should  be  struck  about 
the  first  of  June,  the  first  or  even  the  fifteenth  of  July 
Avill  not  be  too  late  to  secure  good  results,  if  they  are 
properly  handled. 

CARE   OF   THE  PLANTS. 

Chrysanthemums  are  grown  by  florists,  either  in 
beds  or  benches,  when  the  flowers  alone  are  desired,  but 
are  to  some  extent  grown  in  large  pots,  both  as  standard 
and  bush  plants,  for  purposes  of  decoration  and  for 
specimens,  and  in  small  pots  for  sale.  The  treatment 
required  for  each  kind  of  plant  is  somewhat  difi'erent. 
The  bench  and  the  bed  both  have  their  advocates  for 
growing  the  flowers,  but  while  some  varieties  seem  to  do 
better  in  one  than  in  the  other,  it  may,  perhaps,  be  truly 
claimed  that  the  plants  in  the  benches  are  least  likely  to 
suffer  from  over- watering,  while  they  will  need  greater 
care  if  they  are  to  escape  iniuiy  from  neglect  to  water 
often  enough,  and  good  blooms  can  be  obtained  in  either 
bench  or  bed. 

Unless  top-dressing  and  liquid  manuring  are  de- 
pended on  to  supply  most  of  the  plant  food,  the  soil 
should  be  composed  of  about  one  part  half-rotted  cow 
manure  and  three  parts  thick  sods,  prepared  as  recom- 
mended for  roses.  If  the  soil  is  at  all  stiff,  a  small 
amount  of  sand  should  be  added.  At  the  bottom  of  the 
solid  beds  it  is  customary  with  many  growers  to  place  a 
layer  of  sods,  with  the  grass  side  down,  and  cover  them 
with  about  eight  inches  of  the  compost,  while  the  bot- 
tom of  the  benches  often  has  an  inch  of  rotten  cow 
manure  upon  it,  with  from  four  to  six  inches  of  the  pre- 
pared soil.  The  same  objections  hold  with  this  crop  as 
with  the  rose,  as  to  the  excessive  use  of  stable  manure,  and 
several  growers  are  even  now  dispensing  with  the  ma- 
nure and  relying  upon  commercial  fertilizers,  prepared 
after  special  formulas,  for  the  plant  food  needed  by  the 


58  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

crop.  Their  success  lias  induced  a  very  great  interest  in 
the  matter. 

During  the  early  part  of  the  season,  the  flowers  are 
grown  either  singly  on  the  plants  or  as  *'sprays,"  but 
later  on  the  plants  are  trained  to  a  single  stem  with  one 
flower  at  the  top.  The  cuttings  for  early  flowers  should 
be  struck  as  soon  as  the  first  of  April,  and  other  batches 
should  follow  at  intervals  up  to  the  first  of  July,  when 
the  cuttings  for  the  single  stem  plants  can  be  struck. 
The  best  cuttings  are  obtained  from  shoots  that  are  firm 
and  that  have  short  internodes.  Slender  and  wiry  shoots, 
and  also  the  weak  and  watery  ones,  should  be  avoided. 
The  cuttings  should  not  be  over  three  and  a  half  inches 
long,  with  the  leaves  on  the  lower  half  removed  and  the 
others  reduced  one-half  in  size.  They  may  be  rooted  in 
small  pots,  pans  or  boxes,  although  if  many  are  grown  a 
cutting  bed  is  desirable.  The  cuttings  are  inserted  about 
half  their  length,  in  rows  two  inches  aj^art,  and  about 
one  inch  in  the  rows.  While  bottom  heat  will  hasten 
their  rooting,  it  is  not  necessary,  and  good  results  will 
be  obtained  if  placed  near  the  glass,  at  a  temperature  of 
fifty  degrees,  even  without  bottom  heat.  If  particularly 
fine  plants  with  large  blooms  are  desired  for  exhibition 
purposes,  the  cuttings  should  be  placed  singly  in  small 
pots  containing  a  mixture  of  sand  and  compost  at  the 
bottom,  and  sand  at  the  toji. 

When  the  roots  are  half  an  inch  long  they  should 
be  potted,  as  they  will  be  less  likely  to  wilt  than  if  the 
roots  have  become  longer  and  are  broken  in  potting. 
Place  in  two  and  one-half-inch  pots,  using  a  compost  of 
rotten  sods,  loam  and  sand.  Keep  at  fifty  to  fifty-five 
degrees,  and  from  this  time  never  allow  the  plants  to 
suffer  for  lack  of  water,  food,  air,  or  room.  When  the 
roots  show  through  the  soil,  repot  into  the  three  and  one- 
half-mch  size,  using  a  little  richer  compost,  and  when 
the  roots  have  filled  the  pots,  have  the  beds  or  benches 


THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM. 


69 


60  GREENHOUSE  MAKAGEMENT. 

ready  and  plant  out  at  once,  which,  for  the  first  batch, 
should  be  the  last  of  May  or  the  first  of  June.  Have  the 
soil  firmly  pressed  down  upon  the  beds  and  just  moist 
enough  to  work  well.  The  distance  for  planting  will 
depend  something  upon  the  number  of  flowers  to  be 
grown  upon  a  plant.  If  more  than  one  variety  is  grown 
in  a  bed,  place  the  taller  ones  at  the  north  end  in  a 
north  and  south  house,  so  that  they  will  not  shade  the 
others.  As  a  rule,  the  rows  across  the  beds  are  ten  or 
twelve  inches,  and  the  plants  eight  inches  in  the  rows 
when  three  or  more  flowers  are  grown  to  a  plant,  or  six 
inches  each  way  if  the  plants  are  to  be  grown  to  single 
stems. 

Water  the  plants  thoroughly,  and  until  they  become 
established  syringe  them  often,  and  shade  the  roof,  using 
whitewash,  or  better,  white  lead  and  naphtha,  mixed  so 
as  to  make  a  thin  wash.  Until  the  roots  have  taken 
hold,  care  will  be  necessary  to  keep  the  soil  from  becom- 
ing saturated.  In  about  a  week,  give  the  surface  a  good 
stirring  and  if  more  than  one  flower  is  desired  from  a 
plant,  pinch  out  the  tip  buds  to  make  them  branch.  As 
the  side  buds  push  out,  rub  them  off  at  once,  unless  sev- 
eral flowers  are  desired,  when  we  should  allow  three  or 
four  to  grow  and  rub  off  the  others.  If  more  than  tin's 
number  of  buds  is  desired  to  a  plant,  pinch  out  the  end 
buds  in  the  side  shoots  when  they  have  made  a  growth 
of  two  or  three  inches,  and  allow  two  shoots  to  start  from 
each,  rubbing  off  all  others. 

TRAINING  AND  TRELLISING. 

Arrangements  should  now  be  made  for  supporting 
the  stems.  This  can  be  done  in  various  ways  (the  train- 
ing to  stakes  is  seen  in  Fig.  14),  but  the  best  method  is 
to  run  a  wire  (No.  18)  above  each  of  the  rows  and  tie 
the  stems  to  wire  rods  (No.  9,  galvanized),  the  upper 
ends  of  which  are  fastened  to  the  wire.     Another  method 


THE    CHEYSA2fIHEMUM. 


61 


63  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

is  to  run  three  wires  lengthwise  of  the  bed,  about  a  foot 
apart,  the  lowest  one  being  one  foot  above  the  soil,  and 
tie  the  stems  to  them.  A  third  way  is  to  run  a  No.  18 
wire  along  the  surface  of  the  bed  and  another  three  or 
four  feet  above  it,  and  between  these  stretch  jute  or 
binder  twine,  to  which  the  plants  can  be  tied  (Fig.  lo). 

The  plants  for  the  late  crop  can  be  planted  at  any 
time  from  the  first  to  the  middle  of  July,  or  even  as  late 
as  the  first  of  August,  and  will  require  the  same  care  and 
will  be  grown  in  the  same  way,  except  that  they  do  not 
need  more  than  five  or  six  inches  each  way,  and  the  tip 
bud  is  not  removed,  but  is  allowed  to  grow  and  form  a 
long,  single  stem,  from  which  all  side  buds  are  removed 
as  they  start.  The  stems  are  supported  as  recommended 
above  and  the  same  attention  in  watering  and  syringing 
will  be  required.  The  surface  of  the  soil  should  be 
stirred  occasionally,  taking  pains  not  to  dig  deep  enough 
to  injure  the  roots ;  and  the  suckers  that  start  about  the 
base  of  the  plants  should  be  twisted  off  with  the  fingers, 
or  carefully  cut  off  below  the  surface  of  the  soil  with  a 
knife. 

The  growth  of  the  plants  should  be  carefully 
watched  and  if,  at  any  time,  it  seems  to  slacken,  or  if 
the  plants  take  on  a  yellowish  color  and  the  wood 
hardens,  it  generally  indicates  that  the  plant  food  in  the 
original  soil  is  about  exhausted  and  that  a  new  supply  is 
needed.  Some  growers  apply  it  in  a  mulch  of  sheep  or 
cow  manure,  which  both  supplies  food  and  jirevents  the 
evaporation  of  moisture  from  the  surface.  Provided  it 
is  not  due  to  the  use  of  an  excess  of  water,  the  yellow 
color  is  often  an  evidence  that  the  plants  are  suifering 
from  a  lack  of  potash.  At  any  rate,  the  use  of  a  peck 
of  unleached  wood  ashes  to  each  hundred  square  feet  of 
the  bench  will  be  a  good  thing.  Others  apply  soot, 
either  broadcast  upon  the  surface,  or  in  water.  The 
use  of  ground  bone  upon  the  surface  of  the  bed  in 


THE   CHRYSANTHEMtJM.  63 

August,  and  again  about  tlie  first  of  October,  will  be 
advisable.  Liquid  manures  can  also  be  used  to  advan- 
tage whenever  the  plants  show  the  need  of  food,  and  it 
will  always  be  well  to  use  them  freely  once  or  twice  a 
week,  from  the  time  the  first  flower  buds  show  until 
they  open  enough  to  show  the  color  of  tbe  flowers,  when 
their  use  should  be  discontinued. 

On  the  other  hand,  there  is  danger  from  securing 
too  soft  and  watery  a  growth,  from  the  use  of  too  much 
nitrogen  in  the  manure,  combined  with  an  excessive 
amount  of  water.  This  should  be  checked  at  once  by 
slightly  withholding  the  water,  and  by  decreasing  the 
amount  of  nitrogen  supplied  in  the  manure  water. 
Aside  from  the  thick  and  watery  growth  of  the  stems, 
the  plants  also  show  that  they  are  growing  too  rapidly, 
by  tlie  appearance  of  their  leaves,  which  are,  in  addition 
to  being  very  large,  thick  and  succulent,  likely  to  become 
wrinkled  and  twisted.  Until  the  growth  has  been 
checked  and  become  hardened,  the  plant  will  not  develop 
first-class  flowers.  Not  only  should  the  general  appear- 
ance of  the  flowers  be  noted,  but  the  needs  of  each  plant 
should  be  considered,  and  it  should  be  given  more  or  less, 
or,  perhaps,  none  at  ail,  of  the  manure  water. 

''takixg"  the  buds  and  disbudding. 

As  soon  as  the  flower  buds  show,  the  plants  should 
be  looked  over  every  day  or  two,  in  order  that  the  flower 
buds  may  be  "taken"  at  the  proper  time.  This  word  is 
given  to  the  choosing  or  the  selection  of  the  bud  or  buds 
upon  a  plant  that  is  to  flower,  after  whicli  the  others 
are  removed.  The  buds  may  be  either  of  two  kinds,  which 
have  received  the  names  of  "crown"  and  "terminal." 
The  name  "crown"  is  applied  to  a  single  bud  at  the  end 
of  a  shoot,  upon  which  all  of  the  other  buds  are  leaf 
buds,  as  seen  in  Fig.  IG.  Just  below  tlie  flower  bud  are 
several  leaf  buds  that  will  be  likely  to  grow  up  and,  as 


Gi  GREENHOUSE  MAKAGEMENT. 

it  were,  smother  the  crown  bud  unless  they  are  removed. 
As  a  rule,  crown  buds  appear  quite  early  in  the  season, 
and  if  they  are  taken  then,  they  will  not  make  good 
flowers,  and  even  though  it  is  thought  best  to  use  a 
crown  bud  (if  one  is  formed  before  August  15),  it  will  bo 
better  to  remove  tlie  crown  bud  and  all  but  one  of  the 
leaf   buds  below  it.     A  shoot  will  be  developed  from 


FIG.  16.     CROWN  BUD. 

this,  which  can  be  trained  up  and  a  *'late  crown"  bud 
that  it  may  form  can  be  taken.  Later  in  the  season  it 
will  be  likely  to  produce  a  terminal  bud.  As  a  rule,  it 
will  be  better  not  to  take  any  buds  until  towards  the 
last  of  August  for  tlie  early  sorts,  and  from  that  time 
until  the  middle  to  the  hist  of  September  for  the  late 
kinds.     The  crown  buds  are  preferred  by  English  grow- 


THE   CHRYSANTHEMUM. 


65 


ers,  but  except  in  special  cases  are  not  mncli  used  in 
America,  as  they  are  seldom  found  on  plants  grown 
from  late  struck  cuttings,  and  because,  especially  in  the 
case  of  varieties  that  have  very  full  flowers,  they  are 
likely  to  be  imperfect,  owing  to  the  increased  number  of 
petals  that  they  form.  Another  point  against  flowers 
from  crown  buds  is  that  the  leaves  below  the  flower  are 


FIG.  17.     TERMINAL  BXTD. 

small  and  scattering.  In  many  cases  the  flowers  from 
crown  buds  are  larger  and  the  stems  are  stouter.  It  can 
then  be  seen  that  they  may  be  preferable  in  the  case  of 
varieties  with  weak  stems,  or  thin  flowers. 

The  other  buds  that  may  be  taken  are  known  as 
"terminals,"  because  they  form  at  the  ends  of  the  stems. 
They  can  be  distinguished  from  the  crown  buds  by  hav- 


66  GREENHOUSE  MAN"AGEMENT. 

ing  three  or  more  fimoer  buds  below  tliem  on  the 
stems,  as  seen  in  Fig.  17.  As  soon  as  these  otlier  buds 
have  become  large  enough  to  admit  of  its  being  done 
readily,  they  shonld  be  removed.  This  can  be  easily 
done  with  the  fingers,  or,  as  some  prefer,  with  a  pen- 
knife, forceps,  or  pointed  scissors.  If  in  any  way  the 
bud  becomes  injured,  the  next  best  upon  the  stem  should 
be  taken  and  the  others  removed.  It  will  be  Avell  tc 
begin  the  disbudding  at  the  end  of  the  stem,  so  that  if 
a  bud  is  injured  there  will  be  one  lower  down  that  can 
be  left  to  form  a  flower.  The  flowers  from  terminal 
buds  will  not  require  more  than  two-thirds  as  long  a 
time  to  develop  as  crowns,  but  as  crown  buds  often  form 
from  four  to  six  weeks  earlier  than  the  terminals,  upon 
some  varieties  it  may  sometimes  be  necessary  to  take  an 
early  crown  bud,  if  needed  for  exhibition  purposes  ear- 
lier than  they  can  be  obtained  from  terminals ;  and  early 
crown  buds  are  sometimes  taken  in  the  case  of  early 
varieties  from  which  early  flowers  are  desired,  but  except 
for  these  reasons,  and  for  those  above  given,  the  termi- 
nal buds  are  generally  taken.  Terminal  buds  seldom 
are  ready  to  be  taken  until  the  middle  of  September, 
but  whenever  they  ajipear  the  remaining  buds  should  be 
removed. 

Flowers  for  exhibitions  need  about  the  same  care  as 
those  for  sale,  except  that  it  will  pay  to  start  them  a  lit- 
tle earlier  and  to  give  them  a  more  liberal  sj)ace  in  the 
beds. 

SINGLE  STEM  PLANTS  IN  POTS. 

A  convenient  size,  whether  for  exhibition,  decoration, 
or  for  sale,  is  a  single  stem  plant,  either  in  a  four-inch 
pot  or  a  five-inch  pan.  These  can  be  taken  from  the 
last  batch  of  cuttings,  and  it  is  a  common  practice  to 
pot  off  for  this  purpose  any  plants  that  have  not  been 
planted  or  sold.  They  will  need  exactly  the  same  care 
as  the  single  stem  plants  in  the  beds.     Another  method 


THE  CHETSANTHEMUM.  67 

of  growing  single  stem  plants  in  pots  is  to  place  from 
three  to  six  in  pots  or  pans  of  larger  sizes. 

These  plants  being  in  pots  will  require  greater  care 
than  those  planted  in  the  beds,  to  prevent  their  drying 
out,  and  during  the  hot  weather  they  should  be  watered 
at  least  twice  daily,  and  should  be  syringed  in  the  morn- 
ing and  again  in  the  afternoon  of  bright  days.  The 
pots  can  be  kept  in  well-ventilated  and  partially  shaded 
houses,  or  out  of  doors  where  they  will  not  be  likely  to 
be  neglected.  Plunging  them  in  coal  ashes  will  lessen 
the  danger  of  injury  from  the  drying  out  of  the  soil,  but 
at  the  same  time  it  will  increase  the  chance  of  harm 
coming  to  them  from  careless  or  excessive  watering. 
Especial  care  should  be  taken  to  have  the  plants  free 
from  aphides  at  this  time,  and  to  secure  it  the  houses 
should  be  given  two  or  three  thorough  fumigations  just 
before  the  buds  open.  While  a  light  fumigation,  if  nec- 
essary, will  not  hurt  the  flowers,  it  will  be  better  no-t  to 
be  obliged  to  use  tobacco,  either  as  smoke  or  as  a  spray, 
after  this  time. 

Particularly  for  the  late  flowers,  the  ventilators 
should  be  kept  wide  open  during  the  day,  but  should 
be  closed  at  night  when  the  outside  temperature  drops 
below  forty.  If  the  house  is  damp,  so  that  there  is  dan- 
ger of  the  moisture  condensing  on  the  flowers  after  they 
have  opened,  it  will  be  well  to  have  a  little  heat  on  the 
houses,  and  if  necessary  leave  the  upper  ventilators  a 
little  open.  Syringing  should  be  done  early  enough  to 
give  the  flowers  time  to  dry  off  before  night. 

SPECIMEN"   POT   PLANTS. 

Chrysanthemums  are  often  grown  in  large  pots  for 
exhibition  or  decorative  purposes.  The  cuttings  are 
started  about  the  first  of  March,  and  require  the  same 
care  as  those  grown  for  planting  in  beds,  instead  of  do- 
ing which,  however,  they  are  shifted  until  they  are  in 


68  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT, 

ten-  or  twelve-incli  pots,  as  may  be  desired.  Witli  each 
shift  the  amount  of  manure  in  the  soil  can  be  increased, 
until  finally  it  is  the  same  as  nsed  for  the  beds.  When 
the  plants  are  eight  or  ten  inches  high,  according  to  the 
distance  between  the  buds,  the  tip  should  be  pinched 
out.  This  will  cause  the  side  shoots  to  develop,  of 
■which  eight  or  ten  should  be  allowed  to  grow.  These 
should  be  evenly  distributed  around  and  along  the  cen- 
ter stem.  When  these  are  four  or  five  inches  long  they 
should,  in  turn,  be  pinched  back,  and  from  two  to  four 
shoots  allowed  to  form  on  each.  While  more  shoots  can 
be  left  if  desired,  a  handsome  plant  will  be  formed  from 
this  number  of  shoots,  and  the  flowers  will  be  larger 
and  finer  than  with  a  larger  number.  The  pinching 
should  be  done  not  later  than  tlie  first  of  August,  in 
order  to  give  the  plants  time  to  develop  their  flower 
shoots  and  buds.  If  large  flowers  are  desired,  only  one 
flower  should  be  allowed  to  form  on  each  shoot,  all  other 
buds  being  rubbed  off  as  soon  as  they  form.  Wlien  the 
plants  are  disbudded,  all  injured  and  diseased  leaves 
should  be  taken  off,  and  a  number  of  short  stakes  of 
galvanized  wire  should  be  set  around  the  plant,  to  which 
the  flower  stems  should  be  tied.  In  this  way  they  can 
be  trained  to  form  a  symmetrical  plant. 

Plants  in  six-  or  eight-inch  pots  are  also  very  useful, 
either  for  decoration  or  for  sale.  They  will  require 
about  the  care  outlined  above,  except  that  thoy  need  not 
be  started  until  April  1st.  In  order  to  form  compact, 
shapely  plants,  the  leader  should  be  pinched  lower,  and 
not  more  than  five  to  eight  branches  allowed  to  start. 

STANDARDS. 

As  show  plants  and  for  exhibition,  a  few  standards 
and  half  standards  are  grown.  The  former  have  bushy, 
or  umbrella-shaped,  tops  at  a  bight  of  five  or  six  feet 
upon  a  smooth,  bare  stem,  while  the  stems  of  the  latter 


THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM.  69 

are  three  or  four  feet  high.  These  plants  are  grown 
from  cuttings,  generally  suckers,  started  in  December 
or  January,  and  receive  about  the  same  care  as  the  sm- 
gle  stemmed  plants.  They  are  not  stopped  until  the 
desired  hight  is  reached,  and  the  head  then  formed  is 
trained  as  desired.  While  the  greatest  pains  is  taken  to 
prevent  the  development  of  side  shoots  on  the  yonhg 
plants,  the  foliage  should  be  preserved,  and  not  removed 
until  the  head  is  formed. 

FIELD    CULTURE. 

When  the  plants  are  grown  in  the  field,  as  is  still 
sometimes  practiced  by  amateurs,  the  soil  should  be 
thorouglily  prepared,  and  enriched  either  with  stable 
manure  or  commercial  fertilizers.  If  well  hardened  in 
a  cold  frame,  the  plants  may  be  put  out  as  soon  as  dan- 
ger of  severe  frost  is  over,  which  will  be  by  the  middle 
of  May  in  most  localities.  The  plants,  to  be  well  grown, 
will  require  about  tlie  same  care  in  pinching  and  train- 
ing as  was  described  for  the  pot-grown  plants.  If  side 
stakes  are  desired,  they  should  be  inserted  near  the  stem 
of  the  plant,  and  incline  outward.  In  this  way  they 
can  be  taken  up  with  the  ball  of  earth,  and  potted,  with- 
out being  disturbed. 

In  dry  seasons,  it  will  be  well  to  scatter  a  mulch 
along  the  rows,  to  keep  the  soil  from  drying  out  and, 
when  water  is  used,  to  prevent  baking.  Whenever  the 
soil  seems  dry,  water  should  be  given  the  plants,  even- 
ing being  the  best  time  to  apply  it.  If  the  soil  has  been 
properly  enriched,  no  liquid  manure  need  be  given  these 
plants  while  in  the  ground,  but  if  they  fail  to  make  a 
satisfactory  growth  from  a  lack  of  plant  food,  a  forkful 
of  decomposed  manure  can  be  used  to  advantage  around 
each  plant.  When  water  is  applied,  it  will  be  washed 
out  and  carried  down  to  the  roots,  where  it  will  be  taken 
up  and  used  by  the  plants.     The  plants  should  be  taken 


70  GREEXHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

up  and  potted  by  the  first  of  August,  and  will  need 
about  the  same  attention  as  the  plants  that  have  not 
been  planted  out. 

STAKING  THE   POT  PLANTS. 

All  pot  plants  should  be  provided  with  a  center 
stake,  or  wire  rod,  to  which  the  main  stem  should  be 
tied,  and  bush  plants  will  need  from  three  to  seven,  in 
order  to  keep  the  side  shoots  in  place,  and  prevent  them 
from  breaking  down.  AVhen  perfect  phmts  are  desired 
for  exhibition  j^urposes,  considerable  attention  is  given 
to  the  training  of  the  plants.  Commencing  at  the  time 
of  the  second  pinching,  the  side  shoots  should  be  drawn 
into  place  and  held  there  with  loops  of  raffia.  When 
pinched  the  next  time,  hoops  or  rings  of  wire  can  be 
fastened  to  the  stakes,  and  the  laterals  can  be  tied  to 
them.  With  large  plants,  a  second,  and  even  a  third, 
ring  will  be  found  useful. 

LIQUID    MANURE. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  have  become  established  in 
the  beds,  tliey  should  receive  applications  of  liquid 
manure  once  a  week  until  the  flowers  open,  and  the  pot- 
grown  plants  will  need  this  treatment,  commencing  the 
first  of  July.  It  is  also  well,  as  soon  as  the  weather 
becomes  hot  and  dry,  to  mulch  the  plants  in  the  beds 
with  an  inch  or  so  of  cow  or  sheep  manure,  which  will 
both  hold  the  moisture  and  supply  food  for  the  growth 
of  the  plants.  As  the  flower  buds  develop,  there  is  par- 
ticular need  of  liquid  manure,  and  if  furnished  freely  it 
will  increat-'e  the  size  and  perfection  of  the  flowers. 
When  the  buds  open,  and  during  the  period  of  flower- 
ing, no  manure  should  be  given  them,  and  great  care 
should  be  taken  in  watering  the  plants. 

VARIETIES   AND    THEIR   CLASSIFICATION. 

The  work  of  crossing  the  varieties  has  been  carried 
80  far  that  it  is  hard  to  tell  where  one  class  ends  and 


THE   CHRTSAKTHEMUM.  71 

another  begins.  The  nsual  classification  takes  into 
account  the  shape  of  the  florets  and  the  appearance  of 
the  blooms,  and  divides  the  chrysanthemums  into  In- 
curved, Reflexed,  Japanese,  Anemone,  Japanese  Anemone, 
Pompon  and  Pompon  Anemone. 

The  incurved  class  is  made  up  largely  of  Chinese 
varieties,  which  have  broad,  strap-shaped  florets  that  are 
curved  inward,  and  give  the  bloom  a  spherical  or  globu- 
lar form.  As  a  rule,  the  florets  are  regularly  arranged, 
and  make  a  symmetrical  bloom.  The  reflex  class  differs 
from  the  above  in  that  the  florets  curve  outward,  and 
thus  show  only  their  inner  face.  A  perfect  flower  of 
this  group  should  have  broad  florets,  a  full  center,  and 
an  even,  symmetrical  arrangement.  As  a  rule,  the  florets 
overlap  so  closely  that  the  blooms  are  quite  flat.  Oul- 
lingfordii  may  be  taken  as  an  example  of  this  class. 

In  the  Japanese,  the  short  tubular  florets  found  in 
the  incurved  group  are  replaced  by  others  that  may  be 
of  almost  any  shape,  length  or  size,  flat,  quilled,  or 
fluted,  short  or  long,  straight  or  twisted,  thread-like  or 
ribbon-like.  The  group  includes  such  sorts  as  Major 
Bonnaffon  and  Kioto,  classed  as  Japanese  incurved,  and 
Viviand  Morel  as  Japanese  reflexed. 

The  Anemone  flowered  class  have  in  their  disc  or 
center,  short  quill-like  florets,  surrounded  by  rows  of 
broad,  flat  florets  forming  a  horizontal  border.  A  Jap- 
anese section  of  this  class  has  about  the  same  variation 
in  the  character  of  the  ray  flowers  as  is  found  in  tlie 
Japanese  class  itself.  The  Pompon  group  contains 
plants  with  small  and  regular,  but  quite  close,  blooms, 
that  flower  profusely.  The  florets  are  all  the  same,  and 
form  a  globular  bloom  from  one  to  two  inches  in  diam- 
eter. They  are  quite  hardy,  and  are  among  the  best  for 
the  amateur.  The  Anemone  Pompon  class  differs  in 
having  disc  flowers  that  are  quilled  like  those  of  the 
Anemone  group. 


72  GREEmrousE  maitagemeni; 

SELECTIOir  OF  VARIETIES. 

Among  the  things  to  be  considered  in  a  variety  are 
the  habit  and  strength  of  the  jilants,  the  character  of 
the  foliage  and  the  color,  size,  shape  and  substance  of 
the  flowers.  -Very  few  of  the  kinds  of  five  years  ago  are 
now  grown  to  any  extent,  so  great  has  been  the  iinprove- 


FIG.  18.     CHRYSAXTHEJimM    EUGENE   DAILLEDOUZE. 

ment  with  this  flower.  For  the  production  of  cut  flow- 
ers it  is  particularly  desirable  that  such  kinds  be  selected 
as  will  afford  a  succession  throughout  the  season. 
Although  they  are  often  in  the  market  before  the  mid- 
dle of  September,  there  is  but  little  call  before  the  first 


THE  CHRYSAlfTHEMUlI.  73 

of  October,  but  from  that  time  Tintil  tlie  close  of  the 
season  one  should  be  able  to  show  plants  in  flower. 

Among  the  best  of  the  very  early  kinds  is  Lady 
Fitzwigram,  white  ;  following  a  few  days  later  are  Mar- 
quis de  Montmort,  a  large  early  joink  sort;  Mrs.  E.  G. 
Hill,   a  veiy  handsome,  large,  pink  variety,  also  Lady 


FIG.  19.     CHRYSANTHEMUM  MAYFLOWER. 

Plairfair,  another  desirable  pink  variety.  Among  the 
early  yellow  sorts  are  Marion  Henderson,  with  a  hand- 
some flower  of  good  size  and  color ;  Miss  M.  M.  John- 
son, with  a  full  incurved  golden  yellow  flower ;  Yellow 
Queen,  Golden  Wedding  and  H.  L.  Sunderbruch,  Glori- 
9§um  and  Mrs,  J,  G.  Whilldin  are  still  valuable  early 


74 


GKEENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


yellow  kinds.  Of  the  new  yellow  varieties  none  is 
more  promising  than  Modesto.  It  is  of  a  pleasing  shade 
of  light  yellow,  and  in  form,  size  and  "petallage"  is 
quite  satisfactory. 

Among  the  later  yellow  varieties  are  W.  H.  Lincoln, 
H.  W.  Rieman,  Eugene  Dailledouze  (Fig.   18),  Major 


FIG.  20.     CHKVSANTHEMUM  MRS.  PKHIUN. 

Bonnaffon  and  Mrs.  F.  L.  Ames.  Of  the  other  white 
sorts,  coming  after  Lady  Fitzwigram,  Autumn  Bride  is 
a  very  promising  pure  white  variety,  as  are  Mayflower 
(Fig.  19)  and  Mme.  F.  Bergman  and  Mrs.  H.  Robinson. 
Among  the  other  well-known  white  sorts  are  Niveus, 


THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM. 


75 


FIG.  21.     CHKYSAKTHEMTTM  lOKA,  GROWN  BY  NATHAN  SMITH  &  SON, 
ADKIAN,  MICH. 


76  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

which  has  an  excellent  stem  and  foliage  and  very  large 
flowers,  and  Queen,  a  splendid  sort  Avith  perfect  foliage 
and  handsome  flowers  that  kee])  remarkably  well.  Ivory, 
early,  Minnie  Wannamaker,  medium,  and  Mrs.  Jerome 
Jones,  late,  of  the  older  kinds,  are  still  valuable.  Of  the 
pink  kinds,  Mrs.  Perrin  (Fig.  20)  is  a  promising  new 
variety,  while  lora  (Fig,  21)  has  made  an  excellent  im- 
pression as  an  exhibition  variety.  Viviand  Morel  holds 
a  high  place  as  an  early  variety,  and  Harry  Balsley, 
although  not  good  in  plant,  has  a  good  color.  V.  II.  Hal- 
lock,  Eda  Prass  and  Mrs.  Bayard  Cutting  are  also  good. 

Among  other  sorts  worthy  of  a  place  in  a  collection 
are  Clinton  Chalfant,  Jos.  H.  White,  Pres.  W.  R.  Smith, 
Inter-Ocean,  Georgienne  Bramhall,  Eldorado  and  Mutual 
Friend.  Cullingfordii  still  deserves  a  place  as  a  dark 
red,  as  does  Hicks  Arnold  as  a  bronze.  John  Shrimp- 
ton  has  been  well  received  as  a  maroon  variety.  The 
flower  is  of  good  size,  color  and  form,  and  the  stem  is 
stiff  and  well  clothed.  The  principal  call  is  for  white, 
pink  and  yellow  flowers  and  of  course  the  largest  num- 
ber of  plants  should  be  of  those  colors. 

Some  five  or  six  years  ago,  Mrs.  Alpueus  Hardy,  a 
white  variety  with  its  ray  flowers  studded  with  short 
hairy  growths,  and  a  year  later  Louis  Boehmer,  which 
differed  in  being  of  a  dirty  pink  color,  were  introduced, 
but  have  found  little  favor,  except  as  oddities,  with  flo- 
rists. In  addition  to  the  above,  the  class  is  now  repre- 
sented by  Miss  Annie  Manda,  white,  Wm.  Faboner, 
pink,  and  W.  A.  Manda  and  Patrick  Barry,  yellow, 
which  are  improvements  over  the  original  varieties. 
Golden  Hair  and  R.  M.  Gray  are  still  later  and  better 
varieties. 

INSECTS  AND  DISEASES. 

In  addition  to  the  green  aphis,  chrysanthemums  are 
frequently  infested  with  a  black   form.      These  can  be 


THE  VIOLET.  'J"? 

destroyed  by  the  same  remedies  as  are  used  for  the 
others,  but  they  are  harder  to  keep  in  check.  Fre- 
quently, when  plants  are  grown  in  pots,  the  lower  leaves 
are  lost.  This  may  be  due  to  a  variety  of  causes,  such 
as  crowding  and  lack  of  air,  too  much  water,  lack  of 
frequent  syringing,  exposure  to  drying  winds,  etc. ;  and 
a  remedy  can  be  found  by  avoiding  each  and  all  of  these 
things.  We  also  find  that  the  foliage  often  takes  on  an 
unhealthy  color,  which  may  be  due  from  the  plant  being 
in  too  small  a  pot,  lack  of  food,  too  much  or  too  little 
water,  crowding,  or  exposvire  to  the  wind.  Having 
found  the  cause,  the  remedy  will  be  apparent. 

Whatever  metliod  of  growing  the  plants  is  prac- 
ticed, the  best  results  can  only  be  obtained  when  strong 
cuttings  are  used,  and  when  the  plants  are  kept  growing 
without  a  check  from  the  time  they  are  potted  till  they 
are  through  blooming.  For  the  "Leaf  Spot"  and  other 
fungous  diseases,  the  plants  should  be  sprayed  with  cop- 
per sulphate  solution. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THE  VIOLET. 

Few  of  our  greenhouse  plants  have  so  steadily 
maintained  their  hold  upon  public  favor  as  has  the  mod- 
est violet.  It  is  easily  grown  and  is  so  generally  useful 
that  no  florist  can  do  without  it.  For  the  winter  flow- 
ering of  this  plant,  a  greenhouse  in  which  the  night 
temperature  will  not  be  above  forty-five  degrees  is  desir- 
able, but  they  are  often  wintered  in  cold  frames,  and 
give  an  abundance  of  blooms  as  tlie  warm  weather  of 
spring  comes  on.  If  a  greenhouse  is  not  at  one's  dis- 
posal, the  plants  may  be  covered  with  a  narrow  frame, 


78 


GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


around  which  a  wider  and  deeper  one  is  placed.  If  the 
space  between  the  frames  is  packed  with  horse  manure, 
and  the  outer  frame  banked  up  witli  the  same  material, 
double  sash,  mats  and  shutters  will  keep  out  frost, 
except  in  very  severe  weather,  and  a  fair  crop  can  in 
his  way  be  obtained. 

VIOLET  HOUSES. 

While  for  the  successful  growing  of  violets  certain 
requirements  must  be  observed,  the  form  of  the  house 
seems  to  be  of  less  importance  than  with  many  other 


FIG.  22.     NARROW  VIOLET  HOUSE. 


plants.  Good  results  can  be  obtained  in  lean-to,  even- 
span  or  three-quarter  sp;in  houses,  but,  as  a  rule,  if  a 
house  is  to  be  constructed  especially  for  this  crop,  an 
even-span  house  will  generally  be  preferred.  The  prin- 
cipal objection  to  the  three-quarter  span  house  is  the 
amount  of  strong  sunlight  that  the  plants  are  subjected 
to,  owing  to  the  exposure  to  the  soutli.  This  can  to  some 
extent  be  corrected  by  good  ventilation,  and  tlie  form  of 
house  has  the  further  advantage  of  being  more  generally 
adapted  to  other  crops,  in  case  the  culture  of  the  violet 
should  at  any  time  be  given  up. 


THE  VIOLET. 


•HQ 


80  GKEENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

In  the  past,  narrow  houses  from  ten  to  twelve  feet 
in  width  (Fig.  22)  have  been  most  used,  but  those  of 
recent  construction  are  twenty  feet  and  even  wider. 
Among  the  requirements  for  a  violet  house  are  (1)  ven- 
tihiting  arrangements  that  will  furnish  an  abundance  of 
fresh  air.  On  this  account,  ventilators  are  necessary  in 
each  of  the  side  walls  of  the  house,  as  well  as  a  row  at 
the  ridge.  It  will  be  desirable  to  have  the  houses  stand 
a  little  apart  to  secure  this,  as  well  as  to  prevent  the 
lodging  of  the  snow  between  the  houses.  (2)  The 
houses  should  be  so  glazed  as  to  avoid  drip.  For  this 
reason  a  rather  steep  roof  is  desirable;  the  sash  bars 
should  be  provided  with  drip  grooves  and  the  glazing 
should  be  carefully  done.  Use  14x14  or  16xlG  inch 
glass,  butted  without  putty,  and  held  in  place  with  a 
wooden  cap.  Take  pains  to  lay  the  panes  with  the  curve 
up  and  with  the  thick  edge  at  the  bottom.  If  carefully 
laid  there  will  be  little  drij?,  although  there  will  be 
rather  more  than  when  the  glass  is  lapped  and  laid  in 
putty.  (3)  Use  wide,  solid  beds  and  have  a  walk  along 
each  wall  where  it  will  occupy  room  of  little  value  to 
the  crop.  Thus  for  a  house  twenty-two  feet  wide  (Fig. 
23)  we  should  have  two  beds  each  seven  feet  wide,  and 
three  walks,  the  center  one  being  two  feet  and  six  inches, 
and  the  outer  ones  one  foot  and  nine  inches  wide.  If 
they  are  given  proper  attention  in  a  house  of  this  kind, 
the  plants  will  do  much  better,  and  will  be  far  less 
likely  to  be  attacked  by  disease,  than  when  grown  in 
dugouts  and  other  houses  with  heavy  rafters,  and  covered 
with  hotbed  sashes  that  cause  a  large  amount  of  drip. 

Most  of  the  narrow  (ten  or  twelve  foot)  houses  that 
have  been  used  for  the  violet  have  had  two  side  beds  and 
a  center  walk,  but  rather  better  results  will  be  obtained 
with  a  bed  in  the  center  of  the  house  seven  or  seven  and 
one-half  feet  wide,  and  a  walk  along  either  wall  of  the 
house  (Fig.  24). 


THE  VIOLET. 


81 


Some  have  found  less  trouble  from  spot  and  other 
diseases  when  the  phmts  are  placed  in  the  houses  early 
in  the  summer,  without  being  planted  in  the  open 
ground.  If  this  is  done,  it  Avill  be  well  to  take  out 
every  third  or  fourth  row  of  glass.  Although  sash 
houses  are  not  desirable  on  account  of  the  drip,  they 
have  the  advantage  of  permitting  tlie  removal  of  the 
roof,  and  are  very  commonly  used  when  the  plants  are 


FIG.  24.     NARROW  VIOLET  HOUSE,  IJirROVED. 

placed  at  once  in  the  house  without  being  planted  out  of 
doors. 

The  use  of  hot  water  for  heating  the  house  will  be 
I)referable,  unless  it  is  a  part  of  a  large  range,  when 
steam  may  be  used.  The  piping  should  be  sufficient  to 
secure  a  temjicrature  of  forty  degrees  during  the  coldest 
weatheri  "While  a  few  degrees  less  than  this  would  do 
no  harm,  it  will  be  undesirable  to  have  it  go  much 
higher,  forty-five  degrees  being  as  high  as  the  tempera- 
ture should  be  raised  at  night  by  fire  heat.  If  it  is 
likely  to  go  above  that  degree,  air  should  be  given, 
6 


82  GREENHOUSE  MAKAGEMENT. 

While  it  will  always  be  best  to  buy  wrouglit  iron  pipe, 
if  one  has  four-inch  cast  iron  pipe  on  hand,  a  yiolet 
house  will  be  a  better  jilace  for  it  than  one  requiring  a 
high  temperature. 

PROPAGATTOI^. 

Violets  are  generally  propagated  from  cuttings  of 
the  young  shoots,  although  the  old  plants  are  some- 
times divided.  Care  should  be  taken  to  select  the  cut- 
tings from  healthy  plants,  and  if  only  those  from  sti'ong, 
Tigorous  plants,  that  have  given  large  numbers  of  large, 
perfect  flowers,  are  used,  the  tendency  will  be  to  develop 
an  improved  strain  of  the  variety.  On  the  other  hand, 
if  they  are  chosen  at  random,  from  plants  that  have 
been  grown  at  a  high  temperature  during  an  entire  win- 
ter, it  will  not  be  strange  if  weak  plants,  that  will 
quickly  succumb  to  disease,  are  obtained. 

Cuttings  may  be  made  either  in  September  or 
October,  or  in  the  spring.  If  made  in  the  spring  from 
plants  that  have  been  forced,  they  will  have  a  weaker 
constitution  than  if  taken  from  strong  and  vigorous 
plants.  If  made  in  September,  the  runners  are  cut  off 
four  or  five  inches  long,  and  set  in  a  bed  of  light,  sandy 
soil.  By  carefully  watering  and  shading  them  for  a  few 
days,  they  will  soon  take  root.  Tliese  plants,  if  covered 
with  a  cold  frame  and  mulched  with  leaves,  will  be  in 
excellent  condition  for  planting  out  in  the  spring.  In 
case  old  plants  have  been  wintered  in  a  cold  frame,  good 
cuttings  can  be  obtained  in  the  spring  from  them,  but, 
lacking  these,  the  plants  in  the  greenhouse  can  be  used 
as  stock  plants.  The  cuttings  may  be  made  the  last  of 
March  or  the  first  of  April  and  placed  in  a  cutting  bed  ; 
after  rooting,  they  should  be  boxed  or  potted  off  in  sandy 
soil,  or,  if  the  ground  is  moist,  or  so  situated  that  it  can 
be  watered,  they  may  be  planted  out  without  previous 
treatment.    As  a  check  at  the  time  they  are  trans- 


THE  TIOLET.  Hd 

planted  Aom  the  field  to  the  house  has  much  to  do  with 
inviting  the  development  of  the  violet  disease,  it  is  by 
many  thought  best  to  set  the  young  plants  at  once  in 
the  greenhouse  beds  where  they  are  to  flower,  and  thus 
avoid  the  check  that  is  likely  to  be  incurred  when  they 
are  grown  in  the  field  and  then  transplanted. 

SOIL  AND  PLANTING   OUT. 

While  violets  will  give  good  results  upon  almost  any 
good  soil,  they  will  succeed  best  upon  one  that  is  moist, 
but  well  drained,  and  while  heavy  is  not  so  stiff  as  to 
bake  or  crack.  If  the  soil  is  naturally  rich,  the  use  of 
from  five  to  ten  pounds  of  ground  bone  to  the  square 
rod  will  give  stronger  and  healthier  jDlauts  than  if  they 
are  grown  with  stable  manure. 

The  plants,  when  grown  out  of  doors  during  the 
summer,  should  be  set  about  nine  or  ten  inches  apart 
in  the  rows,  which  should  be  at  intervals  of  twelve  or 
fifteen  inches,  unless  large  numbers  are  grown,  when 
they  are  better  if  placed  thirty  inches,  so  that  they  can 
be  worked  with  the  horse.  The  care  required  by  them 
is  simple,  but  they  should  not  be  neglected.  The  run- 
ners that  start  should  be  cut  off,  to  cause  the  plants  to 
thicken  np,  and  if  the  summer  is  a  dry  one  they  should 
be  mulched  and,  as  a  last  resort,  watered,  a  treatment 
that  should  suffice  to  keep  down  the  red  spider,  which 
might  otherwise  trouble  them;  at  any  rate,  frequent 
shallow  cultivation  should  not  be  neglected. 

As  fall  approaches,  the  plants  should  be  taken  up 
and  placed  either  in  a  cold  frame  or  upon  beds  in  the 
greenhouse.  While  some  growers  use  six-  or  seven-inch 
pots,  nearly  all  violet  growers  place  them  in  beds,  in 
which  the  soil  is  from  five  to  eight  inches  deep,  and 
composed  of  four  parts  of  rotted  sods  to  one  part  of  cow 
manure.  The  beds,  whether  shallow  or  solid,  should  be 
raised  above  the  level  of  the  floor,  so  as  to  bring  the 


84  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

plants  near  tlie  glass,  that  they  may  have  all  of  the  light 
possible.  The  distance  at  Avhich  the  plants  should  be 
placed  in  the  beds  varies  from  eight  to  ten  incnes, 
according  to  the  strength  of  the  plants. 

In  case  t!ie  soil  in  which  the  plants  have  been  grown 
is  light  or  exhausted,  the  ball  may  be  broken  and  most 
of  the  soil  shaken  off,  but  if  it  is  still  worth  using,  the 
nnbroken  balls  should  be  set  in  the  bed,  wnth  tlie  least 
possible  disturbance.  For  a  few  days,  the  plants  should 
be  shaded  and  syringed  frequently,  with  thorough  ven- 
tilation, in  order  that  the  check  from  transplanting  may 
be  reduced  as  much  as  possible.  All  yellow  and  dis- 
eased leaves  should  be  picked  off  as  soon  as  the  plants 
have  become  established.  Great  care  should  be  taken 
that  the  temperature  of  the  house  does  not  get  above 
forty-five  degrees  at  night,  although  ten  degrees  more 
during  the  day  will  be  desirable.  Especially  if  some  or 
all  of  the  pipes  are  under  the  benches,  great  care  should 
be  taken  in  watering,  as  the  soil  at  the  bottom  of  the 
bed  is  likely  to  become  dry,  unless  this  is  properly 
attended  to.  When  surface  watering  is  given,  the  water 
should  be  applied  until  the  bed  drips,  and  it  should  then 
be  withheld  until  the  bed  begins  to  diy.  Particular 
attention  should  also  be  given  to  prevent  any  drip  upon 
the  plants  or  the  bed  itself.  With  good  care,  a  liouse  of 
violets  should  average  twenty  to  thirty  flowers  i)er  jilant, 
and  there  are  records  of  much  lai'ger  crops. 

GROWING    THE    PLANTS   IN  THE   HOUSE. 

If  the  plants  are  to  be  grown  in  the  beds  in  the 
house  they  should  be  in  place  by  the  middle  of  May,  if 
not  before.  The  soil  for  this  2iur])ose  should  be  even 
richer  than  is  recjuired  for  field-grown  plants  when  they 
are  set  in  the  house,  and  in  addition  to  the  rich  compost 
a  liberal  quantity  of  ground  bone  can  be  used  to  advan- 
tage.    If  an  old  solid  bed  is  to  be  used_.  the  surface 


THE  VIOLET.  ^5 

should  be  taken  off  and  three  or  four  inches  of  compost, 
composed  of  three  parts  of  rotten  sods  and  one  part  of 
decomposed  cow  manure,  added. 

While  one  strong  plant  in  a  place  will  generally 
make  a  good  clump,  some  growers  use  two  or  three. 
About  once  a  week  or  ten  days  the  surface  of  the  bed 
should  be  loosened  and  all  runners  should  be  pinched 
off.  In  four  or  five  months  after  the  plants  were  set, 
strong  plants  will  be  formed  and  flowers  will  show.  As 
the  weather  gets  colder,  and  before  severe  frosts  come, 
the  sash  should  be  placed  on  the  house,  but  the  arrange- 
ments for  thorough  ventilation  should  be  ample,  and  it 
should  at  no  time  be  neglected. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  regulate  the  time  of  water- 
ing, to  permit  the  plants  to  dry  off  before  night.  If 
they  are  syringed,  it  should  be  only  early  in  the  morn- 
ing of  briglit  days,  and,  so  far  as  possible,  the  water 
should  not  be  allowed  to  fall  upon  the  leaves  when  it  is 
applied  to  the  soil.  As  sub-irrigation  not  only  admits  of 
applying  the  water  without  wetting  the  surface  soil,  but 
aids  in  'keeping  the  foliage  dry,  it  is  especially  desirable 
for  this  crop. 

For  several  years  many  growers  have  experienced 
considerable  loss  from  what  is  known  as  the  "violet  dis- 
ease." Eeally,  there  are  a  half  dozen  diseases  that 
attack  the  violet,  any  one  of  which  may  practically  ruin 
the  crop.  The  "eel-worms"  {Nematodes)  also  work 
havoc,  particularly  in  poorly  drained  soil,  by  causing 
galls  upon  the  roots. 

Tlie  violet  diseases  are,  undoubtedly,  one  and  all, 
invited  by  unfavorable  conditions  of  growth  or  sur- 
roundings. A  superabundance  of  fresh  stable  manure 
might  cause  a  soft  watery  growth  ;  a  high  temperature 
and  long  continued  forcing  would  also  weaken  their 
vitality  and  render  them  easy  victims.  The  real  cause 
is  that  the  spores  ^seeds)  of  the  different  diseases  find 


86  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

conditions  favorable  to  their  propagation  and  growth. 
Much  can  be  done  to  hold  them  in  check  if  the 
decayed  leaves  are  frequently  removed,  and  the  germs 
destroyed. 

With  healthy  plants  to  start  with,  and  with  proj^er 
care  in  watering  and  ventilating,  the  danger  of  the 
api^earance  of  tlie  various  violet  diseases  will  be  greatly 
reduced,  but  if  any  of  the  plants  show  traces  of  any 
disease,  the  injured  leaves  should  be  pulled  off  and 
burned.  The  surface  of  the  soil  should  also  be  occa- 
sionally stirred  and  all  litter  removed. 

The  violet  is  troubled  by  few  insects,  the  most  trou- 
blesome being  the  aphis  and  red  spider ;  frequent  fumiga- 
tion for  the  former,  and  syringing  for  the  latter,  should 
hold  them  in  check. 

VAKIETIES. 

Until  recently  the  Marie  Louise  was  more  largely 
grown  than  all  other  varieties  put  together.  It  is  of  a 
rich,  dark  blue,  with  a  v/hitish  center.  The  flowers  are 
large,  firm,  and  quite  fragrant.  \Yhen  healthy,  it 
is  vigorous  and  quite  floriferous,  but  for  several  years 
many  florists  have  been  unable  to  grow  it  successfully, 
owing  to  its  liability  to  the  attack  of  some  of  the  various 
diseases  of  the  violet. 

Lady  Hume  Campbell  has  wdtli  many  growers  suj)er- 
seded  the  above  kind.  The  plants  are  strong,  compact, 
and  quite  free  from  disease.  The  flowers  are  large, 
double,  extremely  fragrant,  with  long  stems  and  of  a 
light  blue  color. 

The  Farquhar  is  a  new  sort  that  has  been  less  thor- 
oughly tested,  but  the  very  highest  claims  are  made  for 
it  so  far  as  health,  vigor  and  freedom  of  bloom,  and  the 
form,  color  and  fragrance  of  the  flowers  are  concerned. 

Swanley  White  is  still  the  best  of  its  color,  but  is 
little  grown. 


THE  VIOLET. 


87 


Recently  there  has  been  considerable  interest  in  sin- 
gle varieties,  as  tliej  are  generally  less  subject  to  disease 
and  are  freer  in  flowering-thuu  the  double  sorts.  They 
have  little  substance  and  are  less  called  fur  than  the 
double  flowers.  In  Paris,  however,  they  are  all  the  rage 
and  they  may  soon  become  the  fashion  in  this  country. 

California  is  among  those  most  largely  grown.  It 
has  large,  rich  green  leaves  that  stand  u})  well  from  the 


KIG.  25.      SINGLE   VIOLET,  PRINCESS    DE  GALLES. 

Giowii  by  Fred.  Boulon,  Sea  Cliff,  N.  Y. 

ground.  The  flowers  are  large,  of  a  rich,  bluish  purple 
color,  and  very  fragrant.  Flower  stems  long  and  stout. 
Thought  by  some  to  be  identical  with  Mad.  E.  Arene. 

Luxonne  has  petals  about  the  same  size  as  those  of 
the  California,  but  they  aj^pear  larger,  as  they  open  out 


88  GREEXnOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

flat.  A  freer  bloomer,  flowering  from  September  ^^ntil 
April. 

Princess  of  Wales  (de  Galles)  (Fig.  25),  is  rather 
smaller  than  Luxonne,  quite  free  from  disease  and  of  a 
handsome  violet  color. 

Admiral  Avellan  has  diirk  green  leaves,  and  large 
reddish-purple  flowers  that  are  very  fragrant  and  lasting. 


CHAPTER  V. 

BULBS   AND  THEIR   CULTURE. 

During  the  last  ten  years  tliis  class  of  plants  has 
come  to  the  front  for  winter  forcing,  and  bulbs  now 
stand  next  to  the  rose  and  carnation  in  the  attention 
that  is  paid  to  them  for  this  purpose.  The  kinds  that 
are  most  commonly  used  are  Roman  Hyacinths,  Lilies 
{Lilium  Harrisii  and  candidum),  Narcissus  of  vai-ions 
kinds,  Freesias,  Tulips,  Lily  of  the  Valley  and  Callas. 
Although  a  few  callas  and  tulips  are  grown  in  this 
country,  most  of  the  bulbs  are  imported  during  the 
summer  and  fall  from  Holhmd. 

As  a  rule,  we  may  say  that  bulbs  require  a  rich  loam 
soil,  to  which  about  one-fourth  its  bulk  of  sand  has 
been  added.  The  bulbs  are  imported  as  they  ripen,  and 
will  be  received  at  intervals  from  August  to  November. 
They  should  be  at  once  potted  off.  Some  growers  pot 
about  one-half  of  the  bulbs  as  soon  as  they  are  received, 
and  the  others  are  kept  from  four  to  eight  weeks,  that 
they  may  be  later  in  coming  into  flower,  and  thus  give  a 
succession. 

HYACINTHS,    TULIPS   AND   NARCISSUS. 

The  Roman  hyacinths,  tulips,  narcissus  and  similar 
bulbs,  when  grown  for  cut  flowers,  are  placed  in  shal- 


BULBS   AND   THEIR  CULTUKE. 


89 


90  GREENHOUSE  MAlfAGEMEIfT. 

low  boxes  (Fig.  20),  that  are  of  a  convenient  size  for 
handling,  at  a  distance  apart  eqnal  to  about  twice  their 
diameter,  and  so  that  they  will  just  show  above  the  sur- 
face. If  desired  for  decoration,  rather  than  for  cutting, 
they  can  be  i)laced  in  pots  or  deep  pans,  of  from  four  to 
six  inches  diameter,  with  smaller  intervals  between 
them.  As  soon  as  potted,  the  soil  should  be  moistened, 
and  they  should  then  be  placed  where  they  can  be  kept 
cool,  in  order  to  give  the  roots  an  opportunity  to 
develop.  If  one  has  a  cold  pit  they  can  be  placed  in 
that,  but  any  well-drained  spot  out  of  doors,  where  they 
will  be  somewhat  sheltered  from  the  sun,  will  answer. 
The  boxes  and  pots  should  be  so  placed  that  they  can  be 
readily  covered  with  from  three  to  four  inches  of  coal 
ashes  or  sand.  This  will  hold  the  moisture  and  keep 
them  from  drying  out,  but  an  inch  or  so  of  hay  over  the 
ashes  will  aid  both  in  holding  the  moisture  and  in  keep- 
ing them  cool.  If  one  does  not  have  a  cold  pit,  an 
empty  cold  frame  can  be  used  to  store  the  bulbs  in,  and 
if  this  is  not  available,  the  boxes  and  pots  should  be  so 
arranged  that  a  frame  can  be  placed  about  them  as  win- 
ter comes  on.  By  covering  them  with  sash,  mats  and 
shutters,  the  frost  can  be  kept  cut.  Hay  or  straw  could 
be  used  for  the  same  purpose,  and  is  desirable  for  the 
early  sorts,  as  it  hastens  their  development,  but  they  fre- 
quently attract  mice  and  the  bulbs  may;  as  a  conse- 
quence, be  destroyed,  so  that  it  is  not  safe  to  use  them 
for  the  late  bulbs.  As  soon  as  the  roots  have  filled  the 
pots,  the  plants  may  be  taken  out.  It  is  best  to  start 
only  a  part  of  them  at  a  time,  and  these  should  be  placed 
in  a  cool  greenhouse  near  the  glass,  at  first,  and  then 
removed  to  one  where  the  temperature  is  at  least  sixty 
degrees. 

The  Roman  hyacinths  should  be  kept  in  a  frame  for 
fully  two  months,  but  as  a  rule  six  weeks  will  suffice  for 
narcissus.     If  either,  however,  is  placed  in  the  forcing 


BULBS   AND   THEIR   CULTURE. 


91 


house  before  tlio  roots  have  made  their  growth,  the 
flower  stalk  will  be  weak,  and  nothing  will  be  gained, 
even  in  carliness.  As  a  rale,  the  Eom:in  hyacinths,  and 
Early  Roman  and  Paper  White  narcissus  will  be  in 
bloom  by  the  15th  to  the  20th  of 
December,  and  by  bringing  them  in 
at  intervals  of  ten  days  or  two  weeks, 
they  can  be  had  in  bloom  until  the 
first  of  March,  and  even  later,  if  de- 
sired. Tnlips  can  be  brought  in  be- 
foi'e  Christmaf,  and 
by  proper  care  in  se- 
lection of  varieties 
and  in  handling  can 
be  had  in  bloom  all 
winter.  Daffodils 
do  not  flower,  as  a 

FIG.  27.     DOUBLE  DUTCH  j.^^jp        b  6  f  O  r  6      Fcb- 
HYACINTHS. 

ruary. 

Dutch  hyacinths  (Fig.  27),  which 
are  so  commonly  grown  for  bedding  pur- 
poses and  for  decoration,  are  not  forced 
to  any  extent  for  their  flowers.  If  de- 
sired for  sale  or  to  brighten  up  the 
houses,  they  should  be  grown  exactly 
the  same  as  the  Eoman  hyacinth  and 
tulips.  The  Roman  hyacinth  is  still  the 
favorite,  ar.d  although  the  red  and  blue 
varieties  are  sometimes  grown,  the  num-  vlli; 
ber  of  white  ones  used  exceeds  both  of  fig.  28.  improved 
the  others  a  hundred  fold.  hyacinth  glass. 

If  go;-)d  results  are  desired  with  Dutch  hyacinths,  it 
will  pay  to  buy  good  bulbs  of  named  sorts,  and  they  will 
be  found  profitable  if  grown  for  retailing.  The  bulbs 
can  be  placed  singly  in  five-inch  pots,  but  they  will  be 
rather  more  attractive  if  from  three  to  five  are  placed  in 
a  pan  six  or  seven  inches  in  diameter. 


92 


GREEKUOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


"When  nsed  as  house  plants,  hyacinths  may  he  flovr- 
ered  in  glasses  made  for  tlie  purpose.  These  consist  of 
a  flask  to  hold  water,  with  an  enlargement  at  the  top, 
in  which  the  bulb  is  placed  so  that  it  will  barely  touch 


FIG.  29.      SINCI.K  KAUI.Y  TUl.ir.S. 

tlie  water.  Eoots  will  soon  form  and  grow  downward 
into  the  water.  The  glasses  should  be  kept  rather  cool 
and  out  of  the  direct  sunshine  until  the  roots  have 
formed.     An  improved  form  of  hyacinth  glass  is  shown 


BtJLBS   AND   THEIR   CtlLTUEE,  93 

in  Fig.  38.  This  lias  an  inner  tube  in  which  the  roots 
are  confined. 

Of  narcissus,  the  Paper  White  is  the  favorite  with 
the  florists.  It  is  very  easily  forced  and  comes  at  a  time 
when  there  is  a  scarcity  of  Avhite  flowers.  The  Early 
Eoman  and  Von  Sion,  Incomparable  and  Trumpet  Mtijor 
daffodils  are  most  largely  grown  of  the  other  kinds. 

The  tulips  (Fig.  29)  are  highly  esteemed  for  their 
bright  colors.  They  range  in  color  from  white  and  yel- 
low to  rose,  scarlet  and  crimson.  The  single  sorts  are 
generally  used  for  forcing ;  the  Due  Van  Thol,  being  one 
of  the  best  early  sorts,  is  about  the  only  one  that 
can  be  brought  into  flower  by  Christmas.  By  the  first 
to  the  middle  of  January  such  kinds  as  La  Eeine  and 
White  Pottebakker,  wliite ;  La  Belle  Alliance,  scarlet; 
Brilliant,  vermilion  ;  Yellow  Prince  and  Chrysolora,  yel- 
low; Eose  Grisdelin  and  Cottage  M^aid,  pink;  Keizer- 
kroon  and  Joost  van  Vondel,  striped,  can  be  brought 
into  flower.  Among  the  later  sorts,  Murillo,  double 
pink,  and  Tournesol,  red  and  yellow,  will  be  found 
desirable  varieties  for  forcing.  As  a  rule,  the  solid  col- 
ors in  tulips  will  be  found  preferable  to  the  striiDed 
varieties.  By  bringing  in  the  Due  Van  Thol  about  the 
last  of  November  and  giving  it  seventy  degrees,  it  will 
flower  by  Christmas.  With  this  and  other  varieties 
that  show  a  tendency  to  have  short  stems,  marked  ben- 
efits can  be  obtained  if  they  are  shaded  with  cheese 
cloth  or  some  similar  covering.  These  varieties  are 
most  esteemed  for  early  winter  and  to  follow  them 
there  is  a  long  list  of  named  sorts  in  solid  colors  or  vari- 
egated. For  other  varieties  of  tulips  and  narcissus,  the 
reader  is  referred  to  any  of  the  bulb  catalogues,  that  are 
issued  each  year. 

The  crocus  is  also  largely  gi-own  for  purposes  of  sale 
or  decoration.  It  requires  the  same  care  as  the  tulip, 
but  is  generally  used  to  fill  pans,  or  to  border  pans  of 


u 


GREENHOUSE   MAXAGEME:NT. 


no.  30.    FliEESIA  KEFiiACIA  ALBA. 


BULBS  AND    THEIR  CULTURE.  95 

bulbs  of  other  kinds.     The  colors  are  white,  yellow  or 
purjile,  solid  or  striped. 

Freesias  (Fig.  30)  are  generally  placed  in  boxes  at 
intervals  during  the  autumn  and  kept  upon  a  bench  in 
a  cool  greenhouse,  or  in  a  pit,  for  five  or  six  weeks, 
after  which  they  are  gradually  brought  into  heat. 

LILIES  {Harrmi  and  candidum) 

The  lilies  require  about  the  same  care  as  the  above 
mentioned  bulbs.  They  are  frequently  placed  in  six- 
inch  pots,  or  in  boxes  about  five  inches  deep.  The 
Lilium  Harrisii  or  Easter  Lily  (Fig.  31)  is  sometimes 
received  from  Bermuda,  where  it  is  extensively  grown, 
by  the  middle  of  July,  but  the  bulbs  are  immature,  and 
far  better  and  about  as  early  flowers  will  be  obtained  if 
they  are  given  another  month  in  which  to  develop. 

Even  after  the  pots  have  become  filled  with  roots, 
several  months  must  pass  before  the  flowers  will  develop. 
As  soon  as  .the  flower  stalks  start,  the  lilies  should  be 
placed  in  a  cool  house  for  a  week  or  so,  before  being 
placed  in  the  room  where  they  are  to  be  forced.  A  very 
high  temperature  is  required  to  bring  them  in  by  Christ- 
mas, but  from  the  middle  of  January  until  April,  flow- 
ers can  be  had  in  abundance,  if  j)roper  steps  were  taken 
to  secure  a  succession.  Those  for  Easter  should  be 
brought  into  the  house  from  the  10th  to  the  15th  of 
November. 

Lilium  candidum  and  L.  longifiorum  require  ex- 
actly the  same  care  as  the  Bermuda  lily,  but  they  are 
stronger  growers  and  do  iiot  force  as  readily.  The 
bulbs  of  all  the  lilies  are  graded  according  to  their  diam- 
eter, the  size  ranging  from  twelve  to  eighteen  centime- 
ters (5-7  inches)  to  thirty  or  thirty-five  centimeters,  or 
about  twelve  to  fourteen  inches  in  diameter.  The  sec- 
ond size,  eight  to  ten  inches,  is  generally  used  for 
forcing. 


96 


GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


LILY   OF   THE   VALLEY. 

Lily  of  the  valley  pips  are  generally  imiDortcd  from 
Hamburg,    Germany,   about    the    middle   of    October. 


^.^ 


2^#^ 


FIG.  31.     LILIUM  HARKISII. 

When  received,  they  should  be  packed  away  in  the  orig- 
inal bundles,  in  boxes  of  soil,  and  placed  in  some  cool 


BULBS  AlsTD    TitEIR  CULTURE. 


97 


place  to  complete  their  period  of  rest  until  about  a 
month  before  tliey  are  to  be  flowered,  when  they  should 
be  placed  about  an  inch  apart  in  boxes  of  sand  or  sandy 
loam,  with  the  pips  about  half  their  length  in  the  soil. 
'■  hey  should  be  placed  in  partial  shade  (Fig.  32),  where 


L  c 

CO    IS 


?  3 


they  can  have  a  strong,  bottom  heat  of  nearly  one  hun- 
dred degrees.  If  the  pips  can  be  kept  in  a  cool  pit, 
where  the  temperature  is  about  tliirty-five  degrees,  until 
ready  for  forcing,  flowers  can  be  obtained  in  three  weeks, 
7 


98  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

or  even  less.  When  placed  in  a  cold  storage  house,  they 
can  be  kept  for  a  year.  Unlike  other  bulbs  that  are 
forced,  they  do  not  require  to  form  roots  before  being 
brought  into  heat. 

THE  TUBEROSE. 

The  tuberose,  some  ten  years  ago,  was  extensively 
forced,  but  it  receives  little  attention  to-day  for  winter 
blooming.  For  spring  flowering,  the  first  lot  may  be 
placed  in  four-inch  pots  soon  after  Christmas,  and 
plunged  in  damp  sphagnum  or  sand,  in  a  forcing  house, 
where  they  will  have  a  bottom  heat  of  eighty  degrees. 
A  succession  can  be  secured  by  starting  others  at  inter- 
vals of  three  weeks.  If  designed  for  flowering  in  the 
fall,  the  bulbs  should  be  kept  in  a  cool  place,  where 
they  will  be  moist  enough  not  to  dry  out,  until  August, 
when  the  first  batch  can  be  started,  and  with  a  second 
a  few  weeks  later,  flowers  can  be  obtained  from  Novem- 
ber until  January. 

CALLA. 

The  calla  is  one  of  the  easiest  flowers  to  force,  and 
it  can  generally  be  used  to  good  advantage.  The  bulbs 
should  be  potted  in  August,  having  first  rubbed  ofl  all 
suckers,  and  after  receiving  a  good  watering  should  be 
kept  for  a  month  in  some  cool  place,  where  they  will  not 
be  allowed  to  dry  out.  It  requires  a  richer  soil  than 
most  bulbs  and  delights  in  an  abundance  of  water.  A 
seven-inch  pot  will  answer  for  a  large  bulb,  and  if  a 
larger  pot  or  tub  is  used,  there  should  be  several  bulbs 
placed  in  it.  As  soon  as  the  season  of  growth  is  over, 
the  pots  shouVd  be  placed  on  their  sides,  and  kept  in  a 
cool,  airy  place,  without  water,  for  several  months. 
Unlike  the  hyacinths  and  narcissus,  the  calla  can  be 
grown  for  several  years  without  renewing  the  stock, 
although  many  florists  prefer  to  purchase  each  year 


BULBS   ^.:SD    TUEIR   CULTURE.  99 

bulbs  grown  in  California.     The  Little  Gem  is  a  minia- 
ture calla  that  has  many  uses. 

Of  the  otlier  bulbs,  the  lilies  are  the  only  ones  that 
can  be  forced  for  a  second  year,  after  having  had  good  culti- 
vation in  the  open  ground  for  two  years.  While  the  others 
are  worthless  for  forcing,  or  even  for  bedding,  if  good 
results  are  expected,  the  tulips,  in  jiarticular,  can  be 
used  to  good  advantage  by  planting  them  about  the 
shrubbery,  and  under  the  edges  of  evergreens. 


Although  not  a  florists'  bulb  exactly,  the  oxalis 
should  be  more  commonly  grown.  The  Boweii,  red; 
Lutea,  yellow;  and  Versicolor,  red  and  white,  are  among 
the  most  desirable  sorts  as  pot  plants,  or  for  hanging 
baskets,  vases,  etc.  They  have  a  decorative  effect  and 
find  a  ready  sale.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted  in  a 
rich,  sandy  compost  in  October,  in  small  pots,  and  will 
require  no  care,  except  an  occasional  watering,  until 
they  have  filled  the  pots,  ^\hen  they  should  be  shifted 
into  the  four-inch  size. 

The  oxalis  is  well  adapted  for  use  in  hanging  baskets, 
window  boxes  and  as  a  border  for  beds,  as  well  as  for  use 
as  a  pot  plant.  The  bulbs  should  be  started  at  inter- 
vals during  the  fall,  if  a  succession  of  bloom  is  desired. 
They  may  be  planted  where  they  are  to  flower,  or  the 
bulbs  may  be  placed  in  three-inch  pots  and  shifted  to 
the  beds  or  pots.  A  good  bulb  will  fill  a  five-inch  pot, 
or  several  may  be  placed  in  a  large  pot  or  pan.  The 
oxalis  does  well  at  quite  a  range  of  temperature,  but 
about  sixty  degrees  will  give  the  best  results.  When 
through  flowering,  and  the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yelloAV, 
water  should  be  gradually  withheld.  During  the  resting 
period  the  bulbs  may  be  left  in  the  pots,  which  should 
be  turned  on  their  sides  in  some  place  where  they  cannot 
become  wet,  or  they  maybe  taken  out  and  kept  in  boxes. 


100 


GREENHOUSE    MA.N-AGEMENT. 


CYCLAMEN". 

The  cyclamen  (Fig.  33)  was  formerly  sown  in  the 
spring,  but  better  results  are  obtained  if  the  seed  is 
planted  in  September.  The  plants  are  kept  in  two-inch 
pots  until  March,  Avhen  they  should  be  placed  in  fonr- 
inch.     About  the  middle  of   May,   they  should  be  re- 


FIG.  33.     CYCLAMEN. 

moved  to  a  frame  and,  if  well  cared  for,  will  be  large 
enough  for  six-inch  pots  by  July.  They  should  be  cov- 
ered with  cloth  sash  during  the  summer,  but  it  should 
be  raised  to  give  thorough  ventilation. 

During  the  summer  the  plants  should  be  syringed 


BULBS   AND   THEIR   CULTURE.  101 

if  the  -weather  is  hot  and  diy,  and  they  should  have 
plenty  of  fresh  air.  Liquid  manure  should  be  given 
when  the  roots  have  filled  the  flowering  potSo  As  cooler 
weather  approaches  keep  a  little  closer  and  if  the  plants 
have  been  kept  in  a  cold  frame  remove  to  a  house  where 
they  can  have  some  heat,  if  necessary  to  secure  a  warm, 
dry  atmosphere.  During  the  winter  they  should  be 
kept  at  55  or  GO  degrees  until  through  flowering.  When 
the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow  induce  rest  by  moving 
the  plants  to  a  cooler  house  and  gradually  withholding 
water.  They  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  dust  dry 
so  that  the  bulbs  will  shrivel.  After  a  short  rest  the 
new  leaf-stalks  will  begin  to  start  and  the  bulbs  should 
be  repotted  into  four-  or  five-inch  pots,  using  a  light  and 
open  but  rich  compost,  and  giving  thorough  drainage. 
Eepot  when  necessary  up  to  six- or  seven-inch  pots  and 
give  the  same  care  as  the  first  year. 

FORCIlSrG   THE   GLADIOLUS. 

The  gladiolus  is  coming  into  favor  as  a  bulb  for 
spring  forcing.  It  can  be  grown  with  but  little  care, 
and  the  flowers  will  be  even  finer  than  those  grown  out 
of  doors.  The  bulbs  need  to  complete  their  period  of 
rest  before  they  are  started  into  growth,  and  nothing 
will  be  gained  by  planting  them  before  the  last  of 
December,  unless  bulbs  are  used  that  have  been  forced 
the  previous  year.  They  can  be  grown  either  in  beds, 
boxes  or  pots,  but  one  of  the  latter  will  generally  be 
found  preferable,  as  it  admits  of  keeping  them  in  a  cool 
place  until  the  roots  have  formed,  which  is  desirable. 
They  also  do  well  planted  out  in  the  beds  with  carna- 
nations  and  even  in  rose  houses,  but  it  Avill  be  best  to 
start  them  in  pots  and  transplant  them  to  the  beds  after 
the  pots  have  become  filled  with  the  roots. 

They  can  be  grown  in  the  boxes  about  the  same  as 
Holland  bulbs,  using  rather  heavier  and  richer  soil. 


102 


GREEXIIOUSE  JTA^TAGEMENT. 


The  bulb  should  be  barely  covered  with  the  soil,  and  as 
there  is  clanger  of  the  damping  off  of  the  shoots  if  over- 
watered,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  the  surface  half-inch 


of    sand.      Water    thoroughly    and    place    under    the 
benches,  where   the   temperature  will   be  fifty  degrees, 


BULBS  AN"D   THEIR   CULTURE.  103 

until  the  roots  have  filled  the  soil  and  the  leaves  have 
started.  Gradually  increase  the  heat  to  sixty  and  to  seventy- 
five  degrees.  When  the  buds  begin  to  form,  give  liquid 
manure  once  a  week.  If  properly  handled,  the  flowers 
will  be  ready  to  cut  by  Easter. 

Among  the  best  varieties  for  forcing  are  May  (Fig. 
34),  Buchanan  and  Shakespeare. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

TUBEROUS  BEGONIAS. 

During  the  past  ten  years,  few  plants  have  increased 
in  public  favor  more  than  the  tuberous  begonia  (Fig. 
35).  The  plants  are  rapidly  propagated  from  seed,  and 
can  be  grown  as  readily  as  geraniums,  while  for  six 
months  of  the  year  they  are  resting  and  require  no  care. 
For  pot  or  out-of-door  culture  they  have  few  superiors. 
The  "tubers"  can  be  purchased  at  reasonable  rates,  or  they 
can  be  grown  from  seed. 

PROPAGATION. 

The  seeds  should  be  planted  about  February  1,  in 
shallow  flats  or  seed  pans.  The  boxes  or  pans  should  be 
half  filled  witli  broken  crocks  or  other  drainage,  upon 
which  there  should  be  about  an  inch  of  fine  compost, 
composed  of  rotten  sods,  leaf  mold  and  sharp  sand. 
Moisten  the  soil  and  scatter  the  seeds  quite  thickly, 
cover  with  a  thin  layer  of  sifted  sphagnum  and  fine 
sand,  using  just  enough  to  hold  the  seeds  in  place. 

To  prevent  the  soil  from  drying  cut,  cover  the  box 
with  glass,  paper,  or,  better  yet,  long  fibers  of  sphag- 
num. Place  out  of  the  direct  sunlight,  in  a  moderate 
bottom  heat,  with  ?j  night  temperature  of  sixty  degrees. 
Jf  glass  is  used^  it  Is  well  to  cover  it  with  paper  and  to 


104 


GREEiq'HOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


TUBEROUS    BEGONTAS.  105 

keep  it  slightly  raised,  to  afford  ventilation.  When  the 
seeds  have  germinated,  the  sphagnum  and  paper  shonld 
be  removed,  and  a  close  and  warm  atmosphere  should 
be  avoided.     As  soon  as  the  second  leaves  appear,   they 


FIG.  36.     SINGLE  TUBEKOUS  BEGONIA. 

should  be  pricked  out  in  flats  or  pans,  and  from  this 
time  on  they  should  never  be  alloAved  to  stop  in  their 
growth* 


106 


GTIEENIIOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


A  good  potting  soil  for  the  begonias  is  made  of  well- 
rotted  iibrous  sods,  to  which  the  same  amount  of  a  mix- 
ture of  well-decomposed  leaf  mold,  cow  manure  and 
sharp  sand  in  equal  parts  is  added.     A  little  ground 


FTC.  .37.     DOUP.LE  TUr.EUOUS   BEGONIA. 

bone  will  also  be  of  value.  As  soon  as  the  plants  begin 
to  crowd,  they  should  be  placed  in  pots,  and  should  be 
repotted  whenever  the  pots  arc  filled  Avith  roots.  If 
desired,  they  may  be  grown  in  flats  or  in  a  cold  framp 


TUBEROUS   BEGONIAS.  107 

during  the  summer.  For  the  first  few  weeks,  they 
should  be  kept  in  a  narrow,  low  house,  where  they  can 
be  near  the  glass  and  with  a  temperature  of  sixty  to 
sixty-five  degrees.  They  should  be  shaded  from  the  sun, 
and  will  be  benefited  by  frequent  applications  of  liquid 
manure.  As  the  season  for  rest  aj^proaches,  they  should 
be  gradually  dried  off,  and  stored  where  they  will  be 
dry,  in  a  temperature  of  forty-five  to  fifty  degreeso 
They  can  be  kept  in  any  frost-proof  cellar.  If  the  air 
is  very  dry,  they  should  be  placed  in  a  box  and  covered 
with  dry  soil  or  sphagnum,  to  prevent  shriveling.  The 
tubers  should  be  started  into  growth  in  March  or  April. 
They  may  be  placed  in  small  pots  at  once,  or  they  may 
be  started  in  shallow  boxes  filled  with  sphagnum.  The 
first  pots  should  be  but  little  larger  than  the  tubers,  but 
the  i^lants  should  be  shifted  as  soon  as  the  roots  show 
the  necessity.  Good  results  can  be  obtained  when  the 
final  shift  is  into  seven-inch  jjots,  but  the  best  plants 
and  largest  blooms  cannot  be  secured  in  less  than  ten- 
inch  pots,  and  some  go  still  larger.  As  a  rule,  it  may 
be  said  that,  for  specimen  j^lants  (Figs.  36  and  37),  the 
repotting  should  be  kept  up  as  often  and  as  long  as-the 
roots  fill  the  pots  fairly  well,  and  the  larger  the  pots 
that  can  be  filled  with  roots,  the  better  the  results. 

Throughout  the  season,  frequent  applications  of 
liquid  cow  manure  should  be  made,  and  if  it  is  desired 
to  grow  them  in  small  pots,  they  should  be  top-dressed 
with  cow  manure  as  soon  as  the  roots  fill  the  pot  after 
the  last  shift.  During  the  summer,  when  grown  in  a 
greenhouse,  they  require  an  abundance  of  light  and  air, 
but  the  best  success  cannot  be  obtained  unless  draughts 
of  air  and  direct  sunshine  are  avoided.  The  optimum 
temperature  for  growth  is  about  sixty-five  degrees,  and 
during  the  summer  the  air  should  be  cooled  and  kept 
moist,  by  frequently  wetting  down  the  walks. 

For  out-of-door  culture,  the  plants  should  be  hard- 


108  GREENHOUSE  MAXAGEXENT. 

ened  in  a  cold  frame,  and  should  be  planted  out,  eiiliei 
from  flats  or  t'our-incli  pots,  as  soon  as  clanger  from 
frost  is  over.  They  are  particularly  valuable  for  bed- 
ding, as  they  have  no  insect  enemies,  and  are  not  injured 
by  heavy  rains.  AVhcn  they  begin  to  ripen  off,  they 
should  be  taken  up,  dried  so  that  the  soil  will  shake  ofE^ 
and  stored  in  a  dry  cellar. 

Of  the  named  varieties,  the  following  are  recom- 
mended for  growing  in  pots,  by  F.  J.  Meech  &  Sons, 
the  well-known  tuberous  begonia  specialists  of  Charle- 
voix, Mich.  "Double:  Glow,  bright  scarlet;  Incendie, 
flaming  scarlet;  Triomphe  de  Nancy,  creamy  yellow; 
Mrs.  Windsor,  shell  pink ;  Marquis  of  Stafford,  crim- 
son ;  Mrs.  Hall,  white ;  G.  Bryceson,  deej)  salmon ; 
Lafayette,  cinnebar  scarlet  (the  only  one  of  its  color) ; 
Mrs.  Cornwallis  West,  very  free,  yellow ;  A.  F.  Barron, 
deep  pink ;  Terre  de  Feu,  deep  rose,  flowers  very  large 
and  heavy;  Blanche  Duval,  creamy  white,  tipped  blush." 
As  the  best  single  named  sorts  for  bedding,  Mr.  Meech 
names:  "Prince  of  Wales,  crimson  scarlet;  Norma,  red- 
dish magenta;  Queen  Victoria,  rose;  and  Mrs.  F.  A. 
Willard,  cream  center,  blush  outside."  There  are  very 
few  sorts  that  succeed  better  as  bedders  than  selected 
seedlings  of  good  strains. 

THE  CANNA. 

Although  most  used  for  out-of-door  bedding  pur- 
poses, the  canna  is  quite  largely  grown  by  florists  in  the 
greenhouse  for  purposes  of  propagation,  and  as  a  decora- 
tive plant.  For  the  former,  the  plants  may  be  started 
in  midwinter,  after  they  have  had  a  short  rest,  first 
dividing  them  so  that  there  will  be  a  strong  bud  upon 
each  piece,  by  placing  them  in  shallow  beds  of  very  rich, 
sandy  compost,  where  thov  can  be  given  sixty-five  to 
seventy  degrees  with  a  go*     jottom  heab.     After  the  first 


THE  GLOXINIA.  109 

thorough  watering,  they  will  require  little  more  until 
they  have  begun  to  grow,  after  which  it  should  be 
applied  liberally.  As  soon  as  the  new  shoots  that  form 
have  developed  roots,  they  should  be  carefully  taken  off, 
and  either  placed  in  other  beds  to  still  further  multiply, 
or  they  may  be  potted  off.  The  same  thing  may  be  done 
with  growing  plants  at  any  time,  but  the  most  common 
method'  is  to  plant  in  the  open  ground  in  the  spring, 
and  continue  to  divide  the  plants,  as  above,  until  the  last 
of  August,  when  those  desired  for  winter  propagation 
are  taken  up  and  planted  in  the  greenhouse  beds.  This 
method  of  propagation  is,  of  course,  used  only  with  new 
and  high-priced  kinds.  Ordinarily  the  "roots"  are  stored 
on  racks,  or  in  trays,  in  some  place  where  it  is  neither 
very  moist  nor  so  dry  that  they  will  shrivel,  and  where  a 
moderate  temperature  can  be  maintained.  If  well  dried 
when  stored  for  the  winter,  a  warm  potting  shed,  warm 
and  dry  cellar,  or  the  space  under  the  benches  of  a  warm 
greenhouse,  if  ^ut  of  the  drip,  will  answer  for  them. 

For  flowering  in  the  greenhouse,  dormant  plants,  or 
those  at  almost  any  period  of  growth,  provided  they 
have  not  been  long  in  flower,  may  be  placed  in  pots, 
tubs,  or  beds,  and  after  forming  roots  will  soon  develop 
a  number  of  strong  shoots  and  sujiply  an  abundance  of 
bloom.  Among  the  best  varieties  for  this  purpose  are 
the  vvell-known  Madame  Crozy,  Florence  Vaughan, 
Chas.  Henderson,  Explorateur  Crampbel,  Alphonse 
Bouvier,  Egandale,  and  Queen  Charlotte,  as  well  as  the 
newer  Italia,  Austria  and  Burbank. 

THE  GLOXINIA.     {Siuningia  sjjeciosa.) 

Gloxinias  are  in  nearly  all  colors,  from  light  rose  to 
dark  purple,  and  in  the  better  strains  many  of  them  are 
beautifully  shaded  and  striped.  As  a  house  plant  for  sum- 
mer blooming  (Fig.  38),  !.r  for  greenhouse  decoration 
(Fig.  39),  the  gloxinias  have  fcAv  if  any  superiors.  They 
require  little  care,  except  in  watering,  and  during  the 


110  GREEKHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

winter  they  are  dried  off  and  packed  away.  Tliey  are 
readily  grown  from  seed  or  by  means  of  leaf  cuttings, 
but  wlien  only  a  few  plants  are  required,  it  Avill  be  as 
well,  even  for  the  florist,  to  buy  one-year  *'dried  roots." 
These  should  be  potted  in  February  or  March,  in  three- 
or  fonr-inch  pots,  according  to 
their  size,  the  top  of  the  bulb  being 
just  level  with  the  surface,  and 
])Iaced  near  the  glass  in  a  tem- 
perature of  sixty  degrees,  where 
they  will  have  a  little  bottom 
heat.  Until  the  leaves  start, 
very  little  water  will  be  required, 
but  from  that  time  it  should  be 
gradually  increased,  giving  the 
plants  all  they  can  use,  as,  if  at 
any  time  they  are  allowed  to  wilt, 
the   floAvcrs    will    be   much    in- 

riG.  38.     GLOXINIA.  .  ,  r>T         •     •  J  11      • 

jurcd.  Gloxinias  do  well  m  a 
compost  of  two  parts  of  rotten  pasture  sod  and  one  part 
of  well-rotted  cow  manure,  to  which  enough  sand  is 
added  to  open  up  the  soil.  Instead  of  the  rotten  sods, 
equal  parts  of  garden  loam  and  leaf  mold  may  be  used. 

Thorough  drainage  should  be  given  by  filling  the 
pots  two-thirds  full  of  charcoal,  or  broken  crocks,  cov- 
ered with  a  layer  of  sphagnum.  As  soon  as  the  leaves 
extend  beyond  the  edges  of  the  pots,  the  plants  should 
be  shifted  to  the  five-  or  six-inch  size,  in  which  they  can 
be  flowered,  or  sold  as  house  plants.  If  designed  for  use 
as  cut  flowers,  they  can  be  planted  out  from  the  small 
pots,  or  the  boxes,  in  which  they  may  be  started,  either 
on  benches  in  the  greenhouse  or  in  frames  outside, 
where  much  less  care  will  be  required.  When  thus 
grown,  they  should  be  mulched  with  sphagnum. 

During  the  season  of  growth,  every  precaution 
should   be  taken   that  they  do  ?iot  receive  a  check. 


IHE  GLOXINIA. 


Ill 


11^  GREEXnOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

While  tlie  atmosphere  should  be  kept  moist  by  syringing 
the  walks  and  beiiclies,  overhead  watering  or  syringing 
of  the  plants  should  be  avoided,  as,  if  drops  of  water 
remain  on  the  leaves  they  will  be  spotted,  and  their 
beauty  will  be  marred,  if  they  are  not  entirely  destroyed. 
On  warm,  bright  mornings  a  fine  spray  upon  the  leaves 
will  soon  evaporate,  and,  while  being  beneficial  to  the 
plants,  will  do  no  harm.  They  should,  at  all  times,  be 
shaded  from  the  direct  sunlight,  and  during  the  hottest 
part  of  the  summer,  in  addition  to  the  wash  upon  the 
glass,  a  lath  screen,  or  cloth  shade  will  be  desirable. 
Ventilation  should  be  given  in  good  weather,  but  strong 
draughts  of  air  should  be  avoided. 

When  kept  near  the  glass,  and  with  proper  atten- 
tion to  watering  and  ventilating,  the  gloxinia  has  few 
insect  enemies,  but  if  neglected,  the  thrip  and  spider 
will  be  troublesome.  The  use  of  tobacco  stems  about 
the  plants,  and  frequent  light  fumigations,  will  destroy 
the  thrips,  while  the  spiders  can  best  be  fought  by  reg- 
ulating the  moisture  of  the  air.  If  only  a  few  plants 
are  grown,  the  infested  leaves  can  be  sponged.  Should 
"rust"  appear  upon  the  leaves,  the  diseased  portions 
must  be  cut  off  and  burned.  In  case  it  shows  on  the 
same  plants  a  second  year,  it  will  be  best  to  throw  them 
away. 

Plants  started  in  February  should  be  in  bloom  from 
June  or  July  until  August  and  September,  and  a  suc- 
cession of  plants  will  give  flowers  until  the  chrysanthe- 
mums come  in  November.  Ai^er  the  flowers  appear, 
their  season  can  be  prolonged  if  kept  in  a  slightly  lower 
temperature.  As  soon  as  the  flowering  period  is  over, 
watering  should  be  gradually  lessened  until  the  leaves 
turn  yellow,  when  it  should  be  discontinued.  The 
leaves  should  then  be  cut  off,  and  the  plants  in  the  pots 
laid  on  their  sides  under  the  benches  in  a  warm 
room,   or  they  may  be  shaken  out  and  placed  close 


FAXCY  CALADIUMS.  113 

together  in  single  layers  in  boxes,  or  on  shelves,  where 
they  should  be  barely  covered  with  sand,  and  kept  in  a 
cellar,  or  room,  where  the  temperature  will  be  about 
fifty-five  or  sixty  degrees.  In  case  anyone  desires  to 
raise  the  "bulbs"  from  seed,  the  following  brief  directions 
may  be  of  value  :  Sow  the  seeds  in  February  in  pans  or 
in  pots  drained  as  above ;  the  soil  should  be  the  same  as 
for  the  bulbs,  except  that  no  manure  should  be  used ; 
cover  lightly,  and  after  syringing,  shade  and  place  in  a 
room  with  a  temperature  of  sixty-five  or  seventy  degrees. 
The  seeds  will  germinate  in  about  two  weeks,  and  the 
plants  will  then  need  careful  attention  to  prevent  damp- 
ing off.  When  large  enough,  they  should  be  pricked 
out  in  flats,  placed  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat,  and  later  on 
transferred  to  pots.  Re-pot  finally  to  the  three-inch 
size,  and  give  the  same  care  as  large  plants ;  by  the  end 
of  July  they  should  come  into  flower.  When  growth  is 
over,  they  should  be  dried  off  and  stored  for  winter. 

From  a  good  strain  of  seed,  one  should  be  able  to 
obtain  a  good  collection  of  plants,  but  if  it  is  desirable 
to  propagate  any  particular  variety,  cuttings  of  the 
leaves  should  be  taken  soon  after  the  plants  finish  flow- 
ering. If  the  petiole  of  a  leaf,  with  the  lower  half  of 
the  blade  attached,  is  set  in  the  sand  where  it  will  have 
bottom  heat,  a  bud  will  soon  develop  from  which  a  bulb 
will  form. 

FANCY   CALADIUMS. 

The  so-called  fancy  caladiums  (Fig.  40),  occupy  about 
the  same  place  among  the  summer  foliage  plants  as  the 
gloxinias  do  among  the  flowering  ones,  and  much  the 
same  reasons  can  be  given  for  their  popularity.  Most  of 
the  varieties  in  cultivation  are  from  Caladium  Mcolor,  a 
native  of  Brazil,  and  they  naturally  require  a  high  tem- 
perature for  their  perfect  development. 

They  are  readily  propagated,  by  removing  the 
8 


114 


GEEENHOUSE   MANAGEMEKT. 


suckers  that  start  out  from  the  old  tubers  soon  after 
they  are  brought  into  growth,  or  by  cutting  the  tubers 
into  pieces,  on  each  of  which  there  is,  at  least,  one  bud. 
The  cuttings  can  be  left  on  until  they  have  formed 
roots,  but  will  start  most  readily  if  placed,  with  the  cut- 
tings made  from  the  old  tubers,  in  sand  in  a  proi)agat- 


FXG.  40.      FANCY  CALAUIUM 

ing  case,  until  roots  have  formed,  wlicn  they  can  be 
potted  off. 

W]ien  the  period  of  growth  begins,  which  is  about 
the  first  of  Marcli,  the  old  bulbs  can  be  potted  off,  using 
equal  parts  of  rotten  sods,  leaf  mold  or  peat,  sand  and 
cow  manure.  There  will  be  less  risk,  how^ever,  if,  before 
they  are  potted,  the  bulbs  are  placed  in  sand,  with  hot- 


FANCY  CALADIUMS.  115 

torn  heat,  until  the  roots  have  started.  After  the  bulbs 
are  potted,  they  should  be  kept  at  a  temperature  of  six- 
ty-five degrees,  with  a  little  bottom  heat.  At  first,  lit- 
tle more  tban  frequent  syringing  will  be  necessary,  but 
after  the  leaves  start  the  amount  of  water  required  will 
rapidly  increase. 

They  need  partial  shade,  but  if  it  is  too  dense,  the 
color  of  the  foliage  will  not  come  out  well.  Throughout 
the  entire  period  of  growth,  they  should  not  be  allowed 
to  suffer  for  lack  of  water,  and  the  air  should  be  kept 
moist  by  syringing.  If  given  a  mild  bottom  heat, 
growth  will  be  hastened,  and  they  will  soon  be  ready  for 
a  shift.  As  a  rule,  a  five-  or  six-inch  pot  will  carry 
them  through  the  season  of  growth,  if  free  use  is  made 
of  liquid  manure,  but  some  of  the  stronger  bulbs  may  be 
grown  to  large  specimens  by  potting  them  up  to  six-  or 
seven-inch  pots.  If  an  early  effect  is  desired,  five  or  six 
of  the  bulbs  may  be  placed  in  one  large  pot. 

Caladiums  need  ventilation  and  plenty  of  room.  If 
properly  hardened,  they  can  be  used  in  the  conservatory 
or  the  sitting  room,  but  they  will  not  thrive  with  the 
temperature  below  fifty-five  degrees.  As  the  tempera- 
ture drops  and  autumn  comes  on,  and  the  leaves  begin 
to  droop  and  die,  the  water  should  be  gradually  les- 
sened, until  they  are  ready  to  be  packed  away  for  winter. 
This  should  be  in  some  place  where  the  temperature  will 
not  fall  below  fifty-five  degrees.  Even  during  the  win- 
ter the  water  should  not  be  entirely  withheld,  as,  if 
kept  too  dry,  rot  at  the  center  may  ensue.  Among  the 
twelve  best  varieties  are,  Candidum,  Cliantinii,  Clio, 
Leplay,  Mad.  A.  Bleu,  Mad.  Marjolin  Scheffer,  Meyer- 
beer, Mons.  A.  Hardy,  Princess  of  Teck,  Eeine  Marie  de 
Portugal,  Eeine  Victoria  and  Triomphe  de  1'  Exposition. 
Owing  to  the  fact  that  new  forms  are  being  constantly 
brought  from  Brazil  and  others  obtained  by  crossing, 
any  list  is,  at  best,  a  temporary  one, 


CHAPTER  VIT. 


OKCHID    CULTURE. 


As  the  requirements  for  the  successful  growing  of 
orchids  become  better  understood,  the  extent  to  Avhich 
they  are  grown  will  rajiidly  increase ;  even  now,  they 
form  a  part  of  all  large  collections,  and  have  quite  an 
extensive  sale  as  cut  flowers. 

The  orchids  may  be  divided  into  two  classes,  the 
terrestrial  and  the  epiphytal.  To  the  first  section 
belong  such  species  as  live  upon,  and  draw  their  nour- 
ishment from,  the  ground.  Others  grow  upon  the 
trunks  and  branches  of  trees,  or  upon  rocks.  They 
thrive  under  varied  conditions,  some  being  on  the 
branches  of  trees  overhanging  streams  or  pools  of  water, 
where  the  atmosphere  is  quite  damp,  while  others  cling 
to  rocks  on  the  mountain  side.  Many  kinds  are  found 
only  in  the  tops  of  lofty  trees,  and  some  are  generally  on 
the  trunks  near  the  ground.  Orchids  have  also  been 
found  at  altitudes  as  high  as  14,000  feet,  but  the  jungle 
seems  preferred  by  tliem,  although  many  forms  grow  at 
an  altitude  of  2000  to  8000  feet.  They  are  widely  dis- 
tributed through  the  tropics,  being  found  in  great  quan- 
tities upon  both  hemispheres,  and  many  handsome 
forms  are  found  in  the  temperate  zones. 

The  tropical  orchids  abound  in  Venezuela,  New 
Grenada,  Peru,  Central  America  and  as  far  north  as 
Mexico.  In  the  Eastern  Hemisphere,  they  are  found  in 
the  East  Indies,  Australia,  Ceylon  and  India,  and  they 
are  grouped  according  to  habitat  into  East  Indian 
forms,  which  flourish  in  a  night  tempert^tiu'e  of  seveut^ 

ii. 


ORCHID  CULTURE  117 

to  seventy-five  degrees  in  summer,  and  sixty  to  sixty-fi\e 
degrees  in  winter,  with  about  ten  degrees  higher  during 
the  day;  Brazilian  and  Mexican  forms,  with  a  night 
temperature  of  sixty-five  to  seventy  degrees  in  summer, 
and  sixty  in  winter,  and  tlie  Peruvian  orchids,  that  do 
not  need  over  fifty-five  to  sixty  degrees  at  night  in  sum- 
mer, and  forty-five  to  fifty  degrees  in  winter;  in  eacli 
case  they  may  be  ten  degrees  warmer  during  sunny  days. 

In  our  treatment  of  orchids,  we  should  endeavor  to 
provide  them  with  surroundings  similar  to  those  that 
they  are  accustomed  to,  in  a  wild  state.  Many  of  the 
East  Indian  orchids  are  supplied  with  an  abundance  of 
moisture  for  a  part  of  the  year,  during  which  they  make 
their  growth,  and  rest  during  the  dry  season.  As  they 
grow  upon  tree  tops  and  on  the  sides  of  mountains,  they 
ave  fully  exposed  to  all  movements  of  the  air,  and  from 
this  their  need  of  an  abundance  of  fresh  air  can  be 
readily  seen.  The  Peruvian  orchids,  on  the  other  hand, 
are  found  at  high  altitudes,  where  the  climate  is  cool 
and  moist,  and  the  supply  of  water  throughout  the  year  is 
abundant.  For  such  species,  it  will  bo  seen,  it  would  be  im- 
proper to  provide  any  extended  period  of  drouth.  While 
some  of  these  plants  grow  in  the  full  sunlight,  others  are 
found  in  the  dense  jungles,  and  will  not  stand  the  full 
sunshine,  even  of  our  climate.  The  conditions  under  glass 
are,  moreover,  quite  different  from  those  in  the  open  air 
Just  above,  and  for  most  plants,  it  is  desirable  to  pro- 
vide some  way  of  shading  them,  during  the  summer 
months.  For  this  purpose,  permanent  shading,  using 
some  wash  for  the  glass,  rolling  blinds,  canvas  or  net- 
ting, may  be  used. 

Orchids  are  collected  and  shipped  to  this  country 
and  Europe  in  large  quantities,  and  can  be  purchased, 
while  yet  dormant,  at  comparatively  low  prices.  Most 
of  the  importers  are  large  growers  of  orchids,  and,  if 
desired,  can  furnish  estublish^d  plants,  at  prices  rang- 


118 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


ORCHID  CULTUBE.  119 

ing  from  less  than  one  dollar  for  small  plants  of  com- 
mon varieties,  to  hundreds  of  dollars  for  rare  ones. 

If  dormant  plants  are  obtained,  the  dead  and  decay- 
ing portions  should  be  cut  off,  and  the  healthy  growths 
sponged  with  some  insecticidal  solution,  to  destroy  the 
scale  and  other  insects  that  may  be  upon  them.  They 
may  then  either  be  placed  npon  sphagnum  in  a  shaded 
portion  of  the  house,  where  they  should  be  kept  com- 
paratively dry  until  signs  of  growth  appear,  or  in  pots 
or  baskets  nearly  filled  with  broken  crocks,  charcoal  and 
other  drainage.  By  the  latter  method,  they  can  be 
watered  more  freely,  and  stronger  growths  can  be  ob- 
tained. As  soon  as  the  roots  appear,  the  drainage 
should  be  covered  with  a  mixture  of  fibrous  peat,  sphag- 
num, and  finely -broken  crocks  and  charcoal. 

With  many  orchids,  the  plan  of  hanging  them  m 
the  house  with  the  roots  up,  for  two  or  three  weeks,  is 
an  excellent  one,  particularly  with  Phalaenopsis.  Vanda, 
Aerides  and  similar  genera,  as  it  lessens  the  chance 
from  decay,  on  account  of  water  collecting  between  the 
leaves.  Nearly  all  orchids  should  be  kept  in  the  shade 
until  they  have  become  established. 

ORCHIDS   FOR   BEGINNERS. 

In  making  a  selection  of  orchids,  care  should  be 
taken  to  choose  species  that  are  easy  of  culture,  that  are 
quite  sure  to  flower,  and  that  are  ornamental.  If  kinds 
can  be  selected  that  are  low  priced,  all  the  better.  The 
appended  list  contains  sorts  that  fulfill  these  require- 
ments. 

STOVE  ORCHIDS 

Night,  summer  75°,  winter  65°.  Day,  summer  85°,winter  75°. 
Calanthe  Veitchii.  Cypripedium  villosum. 

Cypripedium  Boxallii.  Dendrobium  nobile. 

"  caudatum.  "  Wardianum. 

•'  Harrisianum.  Oncidiiim  papilio. 

"  Lawrencianum.       Phaiaenoiisis  amabilis. 

"         Spicerianum.  (Fig.  42.)  Stanhopea  insignia 


130 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMEJST. 


.;^^\   'y 


FIG.     42.       fVPHlPKDIUM    SPICKltlANUM. 

(Grown  by  Pitcher  &  Maiitia,  Sliort  Hills,  N.  J.) 


ORCHID   CULTURE.  181 

INTERMEDIATE  ORCHIDS. 

Night,  summer  65°  to  70°,  winter  55°  to  60°.     Day,  summer  75* 

to  80°,  -winter  65°  to  70\ 
A'e'rides  odoratum.  Laelia  anceps. 

Cattleya  Gaskelliana.  "     purpurata. 

"       Mossiae.  Lycaste  Skinneri. 

"       Percivaliana.  Pliaius  grandifolius. 

"       Trianae.  (Fig.  43.)         Tricliopilia  suavis. 
Coelogyne  ocellata. 

COOL  HOUSE  ORCHIDS. 

Night,  summer  55°  to  60°,  winter  50°.      Day,  summer  65°  to  70% 

winter  55°  to  60°. 
Cypripedium  insigne.  Odontoglossum  Rossii  majus. 

Epidendrum  vitellinum  majus.  Oncidium  tigrinum. 
MasdevalliaLindeni(Harryana).        "        unguiculatum. 
Odontoglossum  grande.  Zygopetalum  Mackayi. 

"  Pescatorei. 

While  a  room  is  desirable  for  eacli  group  of  orchids, 
it  is  not  necessary,  and  good  results  can  be  obtained 
with  all  in  one  I'oom,  if  the  East  Indian  and  other  stove 
forms  are  placed  at  one  end,  which  is  kejit  quite  warm, 
while  the  Mexican  and  Peruvian  forms  are  grown  at  the 
other.  Moreover,  the  classification  is  at  best  a  provi- 
sional one,  as  some  of  the  stove  plants  would  thrive  in  an 
intermediate  house,  as  would  several  of  the  cool  house 
orchids. 

THE   POTTIX-G    OF   ORCHIDS. 

Orchids  may  be  grown,  according  to  their  nature, 
upon  pieces  of  bark  or  cork,  or  in  baskets,  pans  or  pots. 
The  baskets  are  generally  made  of  cypress  or  cherry,  in 
a  square  or  octagonal  form,  or  as  cylinders,  boats,  or 
rafts,  as  shown  in  Fig.  44.  The  material  is  cut  into 
strips  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  square  and  from 
four  inches  to  a  foot  or  more  in  length,  according  to  the 
size  of  the  plants.  Holes  are  bored  about  half  an  inch  from 
the  end  of  each  stick,  and  galvanized  or  copper  No.  18 


122 


GREENHOUSE    MANAGEMENT. 


■wire  is  run  tlirougli  tliem,  binding  tliem  firmly  together. 
Loops  are  made  at  the  upper  end  of  these  wires,  to  which 
the  liandles  are  fastened. 

For  growing  in  pots,  Cypripediums  (Fig.  42),  Cat- 


^^^t^ 

m 

1 
b 

.  sSHnHI.'  '.  ■         ': '  :  jttKKtk 

%^ 

^P'"'     "4^"  T 

m  ■        ''^' 

1 

m-        i  ^ 

i 

E*«A.k.  Ajlm^.- 

^ 

W-^ 

w- 

FIG.  43.     CATTLEYA  TRIAN>^7,. 


tleyas  (Fig.  41),  Acrides  (Fig.  45),  Lycaste,  Oncidiums, 
Masdevallias,  Epidendrums,  L^lias,  Pliala3no])sis,  Van- 
das,  Calantlies,  Dendrobiums  (Fig.  41),  Tri- 
chopilias,     Odontoglossums,     Phaius,     Ccelogynes    and 


ORCHID  CULTUEE. 


123 


Zygopetalnms,  may  be  selected.  Many  of  them  do  fully 
as  well,  however,  iu  orchid  pans,  and, with  the  exception 
of  Cypripediums,  Phaius,  Lycaste,  Ccelogynes,  Calan- 
thes,  Masdevallias  and  Zygopetalnms,  which  are  terres- 
trial orchids,  baskets  will  generally  be  fonnd  better  for 
them.  Stanhopeas  need  an  open  pan  or  basket,  while 
Cattleyas,  Lselias,  Phalsenopsis  (Fig.  46),  Vandas,  Den- 


FIG.  44.     ORCHID  BASKETS. 

drobiums,  Odontoglossoms,  Epidendrums,  and  a  few 
others  may  be  grown  in  sphagnum,  on  rafts,  or  upon 
blocks  of  wood  or  cork,  but  they  will  require  more  atten- 
tion than  if  grown  in  baskets.  The  terrestrial  forms, 
as  enumerated  above,  should  be  grown  in  pots  about  one- 
third  filled  with  broken  crocks,  over  which  a  layer  of 
sphagnum  is  spread;  upon  this  the  plants  ai'e  placed  in 


124  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  good  loam,  fibrous  peat, 
chopped  sphagnum,  broken  crocks  and  charcoal.  Lycaste 
and  Coelogyne  are  benefited  by  an  admixture  of  sand, 
and  Calanthe  by  chopped,  sandy  loam  sods,  while  a  lit- 
tle decomposed  manure  will  be  desirable  for  the  others. 


FIG.  45.     AERIDES  SAVAGEANUM. 

The  top  of  the  soil  should  be  a  little  below  the. edge  of 
the  pot  to  aid  in  watering  (Fig.  47,  E). 

When  epiphytal  orchids,  such  as  Laelias,  Cattleyas, 
Phalaenopsis,  Vandas,  Dcndrobiums,  Odontoglossums 
and  Aerides,  are  grown  in  pots,  tliey  should  be  nearly 
filled  with  potsherds  and  covered  with  a  layer  of  peat 
and  sphagnum  ;  the  plants  placed  upon  this,  with  their 
roots  covered  with  coarse  peat  and  chopped  sphagnum, 
should  be  held  in  place  by  pegs  and  stakes.     If  a  small 


ORCHID   CULTURE.  125 

pot  is  inverted  in  the  bottom  of  the  large  one,  before  the 
potsherds  are  put  in,  the  drainage  will  be  improved  and 
will  be  less  likely  to  become  sour. 

For  Vaudas,  Phalsenopsis  and  other  true  epiphytes, 
peat  is  not  necessary.  It  will  generally  be  advisable  to 
raise  the  plant  two  or  three  inches  above  the  top  of  the 
pot  (Fig.  47,  A,  B  and  D),  but  in  covering  the  roots, 
care  should  be  taken  not  to  raise  the  sphagnum  much 
above  the  base  of  the  pseudo-bulbs,  as  it  might  both 
cause  decay  and  prevent  development  of  the  flower 
scapes.  When  orchids  have  been  freshly  potted,  great 
care  is  necessary  in  watering  until  roots  have  been  devel-' 
oped.  AYhen  orchids  need  repotting,  as  much  of  the 
old  material  as  possible  should  be  shaken  oflf,  without 
breaking  the  roots,  and  the  plants  then  placed  in  pots  as 
before. 

If  plants  are  to  be  grown  in  baskets,  the  size  selected 
should  be  as  small  as  can  well  be  used,  and  the  basket- 
ing should  be  done  in  the  same  way  as  the  potting, 
using  coarse  potsherds  and  sphagnum  at  the  bottom, 
and  filling  up  with  fine  potsherds  and  chopped  sphagnum. 
The  plants  should  be  placed  upon  this  and  the  roots 
covered  with  sjihagnum.  For  Cattleyas,  Laelias,  Den- 
drobiums  and  Odontoglossums,  coarse  chopped  peat 
should  be  added  to  the  compost,  while  for  Aerides, 
Phalasnopsis  and  Vandas  it  is  not  used. 

Many  of  the  true  epiphytal  orchids,  such  as  Vandas, 
Aerides  and  Phalsenopsis,  as  well  as  Cattleyas,  Laslias, 
Dendrobiums,  Odontoglossums  and  Epidendrums,  may 
also  be  grown  upon  blocks  of  wood,  rafts,  cylinders  and 
pieces  of  cork  and  bark,  upon  which  they  are  bound 
with  copper  wire,  the  roots  being  covered  with  sphag- 
num, with  which  peat  is  mixed  for  the  last  five  named. 

While  there  is  much  less  danger  from  over-water- 
ing when  these  plants  are  upon  blocks  than  when  in 
baskets,  it  is  also  true  that  watering  becomes  necessary 


126 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


mucli  more  frequently,  in  order  to  i^revent  their  drying 
out.  For  this  reason,  unless  careful  oversight  is  given 
the  plants,  the  basket  will  be  better  than  blocks  and 
rafts,  except,  perhaps,  for  certain  species  of  Epiden- 
Irum,  Odontoglossum  and  Dendrobiuui. 


M^ 

>W^ 

R 

^  JJMBy      T  ^BL-^  ■  Jl 

^ 

' 

ri 

.a 

¥1 

FIG.  4G.      I'lIAL.ENOrsrS  GRANDIFLORA. 

The  repotting  of  orchids  is  generally  done  just 
before  growth  commences.  It  should  be  performed 
annually  in  the  case  of  Calanthe  and  Phaius,  but  a  toi> 
dressing  will  be  all  tliat  most  species  require,  until  they 
outgrow  their  basket  or  pot. 


ORCHID    CULTURE. 


127 


"WATERIXG    ORCHIDS. 

'  When  the  plants  are  starting  into  growth,  if  the 
moss  is  kept  saturated  with  frequent  waterings,  the  new 
growths  are  liable  to  rot  off,  hence  the  moss  should  be 


FIG.  47.    POTTING  AND  CRIBBING  ORCHIDS  (After  R.  M.  Grey) 
The  dotted  Uiie  upon  the  pots  sUowji  the  aiuouiit  of  drainage  used  in  eacii  case. 

kept  only  barely  moist.  As  the  growths  develop,  more 
water  can  be  given,  and  towards  the  last  of  the  season 
there  need  be  no  limit,  provided  the  pots  and  baskets  are 


1:^8  GREENUOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

properly  drained.  If  tlie  planes  are  upon  rafts  or  blocks, 
they  should  be  syringed  two  or  three  times  a  day  during 
the  summx?r,  and  should  be  occasionally  soaked  by  being 
dipped  in  water.  Plants  in  baskets  should  receive  sim- 
ilar treatment,  and  whenever  they  are  dry  in  the  morn- 
ing they  should  be  dipped.  It  is  an  excellent  plan, 
during  the  bright  days  of  summer,  to  close  the  house  by 
the  middle  of  the  afternoon  and  syringe  the  plants  with 
a  fine  rose.  By  wetting  down  the  walks  once  or  twice 
a  day,  in  hot  weather,  a  moist  atmosphere  can  be 
obtained,  which  will  be  favorable  to  the  growth  of  the 
l^lants. 

Hard  water  should  not  be  used  for  orchids,  and  a 
cistern  in  which  rain  water  can  be  caught  is  quite 
desirable.  For  use  in  winter,  it  is  well  to  have  a  tank 
inside  the  house,  so  that  the  water  will  be  of  the  same 
temperature  as  the  plants. 

CARE   DURING    GROWTH. 

As  a  rule,  orchids  make  their  growth  during  the 
summer,  and  rest  during  tlie  winter.  When  the  season 
for  growth  approaches,  the  temperature  should  be  raised 
ten  degrees,  and  the  air  kept  moist.  Since  the  epiphy- 
tal orchids  obtain  most  of  their  food  from  the  air, 
through  their  roots,  an  abundant  supply  of  moisture 
should  be  maintained  in  the  air  so  long  as  growth  is 
made.  During  the  middle  of  the  day,  it  is  well  to  dry 
out  the  atmosphere  and  admit  fresh  air  by  ventilation, 
when  it  can  be  done  without  unduly  lowering  the  tem- 
perature. 

TREATMENT   DURING  RESTING    STAGE. 

As  winter  approaches,  the  growths  will  harden,  and 
the  plants  enter  on  tlieir  period  of  rest,  during  which 
time  the  temperature  should  be  lowered  about  ten  de- 
grees, and  maintained  at  the  following  temperature  for 
winter;     Stove  orchids,  night,  G5°;  day,  75°  to  80°.    In- 


ORCHID   CULTURE.  129 

termediate  house  orchids,  night,  55°  to  60° j  day,  G5° 
to  70°.     Cool  house  orchids  teu  degrees  lower. 

During  the  resting  stage,  the  Cattleyas,  Laelias, 
Dendrobinms  and  similar  forms,  should  be  kept  as  dry 
as  possible  and  not  shrivel.  On  the  other  hand,  several 
genera,  such  as  Aerides,  Vanda,  Phalsenopsis  and  Zygo- 
petalum,  keep  up  more  or  less  growth  during  the  winter, 
and  should  be  given  more  water  than  the  others  and 
never  allowed  to  become  dry  at  the  roots. 

The  Dendrobiums  and  Calanthes  of  some  species 
drop  their  leaves  as  soon  as  growth  is  over,  and,  in  order 
to  ripen  the  growth,  should  be  placed  near  the  glass, 
and  kept  quite  dry.  Although  the  moisture  should  be 
withheld,  during  the  winter,  the  atmosphere  should  not 
be  allowed  to  become  hot  and  dry,  and  on  bright  days 
the  walks  and  tables  should  be  wet  down. 

MAISTAGEMENT  DURING  BLOOM. 

There  is  quite  a  variety  in  the  habit  of  bloom  in 
orchids,  as  some  forms  like  Lmlia  anceps,  Cattleya  Tri- 
anm,  Calanthe,  Ccelogyne,  Phaius  and  Cypri'pedium 
insigne  bloom  in  December,  during  the  resting  period, 
while  many  bloom  during  tiie  summer.  When  the  blos- 
soms open,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  remove  the  plants  to  a 
cooler  house,  as,  in  an  atmosphere  that  is  cool  and  dry, 
they  will  last  much  longer  than  in  one  that  is  hot  and 
moist.  If  the  drop  is  not  more  than  ten  degrees,  no 
harm  will  be  done  to  the  plants,  especially  if  the  change 
is  made  gradually.  If  the  blossoms  are  wet,  in  syring- 
ing, they  soon  become  spotted  and  fade,  hence  no  water 
should  be  allowed  to  fall  on  the  flowers. 

From  the  fact  that  most  orchids  can  be  grown  in 
baskets,  and  hang  from  the  sash  bars,  where  they  take 
but  little  room,  many  florists  are  taking  up  orchid  grow- 
ing for  the  sale  of  cut  flowers,  and  find  it  very  remuner- 
ative. 


130  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

DISEASES,    INSECTS  AND    OTHER   ENEMIES. 

The  *'rot"  and  "spot"  are  among  the  -worst  diseases 
of  the  orchid.  The  former  is  caused  by  a  superabundance 
of  water  at  tlie  roots,  and  the  method  of  prevention  is 
plain.  If  rot  ap^^ears,  the  diseased  portion  should  be 
cut  away.  Spot  is  most  troublesome  when  rotting  ma- 
nure, or  similar  material,  is  placed  at  the  roots, 
although  a  sour  compost,  or  overwatering,  brings  it  on, 
especially  if  the  house  is  kept  closed. 

Slugs  are  among  the  worst  enemies  that  the  orcliid 
grower  has  to  contend  with,  as  they  sometimes  eat  ofE 
the  soft  flower  stalks,  and  destroy  the  points  of  the  new 
roots.  They  can  be  trapped  by  placing  sliced  potatoes 
on  the  benches,  and  the  same  thing  will  attract  snails, 
wood  lice,  and  roaches,  although  molasses  and  some  form 
of  poison  is  used  for  the  last  two.  It  is  always  safe  to 
place  a  little  cotton  batting  around  the  base  of  the  flower 
stalk,  to  protect  it  from  its  enemies. 

Various  scale  insects  are  also  frequently  trouble- 
some, and  for  these,  as  well  as  for  mealy  bugs,  thrips, 
red  spiders  and  similar  insects,  some  insecticidal  wash, 
as  whale-oil  soap,  should  be  used.  Strong  tobacco  water 
will  also  be  quite  effectual,  as  will  fir  tree  oil.  Kero- 
sene emulsion  will  also  destroy  the  insects,  and,  if  prop- 
erly prepared,  will  not  injure  the  plants,  although  after 
a  few  hours  it  is  well  to  wash  it  off.  The  other  insects 
that  attack  orchids  are  the  same  as  are  troublesome  to  a 
great  variety  of  plants,  and  similar  remedies  should  be 
used. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

AZALEAS.     {Azalea  Indica.) 

As  a  rule,  the  azaleas  used  by  the  florist  are  im- 
ported from  Europe.  They  are  obtained  in  the  fall,  and 
should  be  potted  at  once  and  placed  in  a  cool  room, 
where  they  can  be  shaded  for  the  first  few  days.  While 
they  should  be  watered  sparingly  at  first,  the  frequent 
syringing  of  the  plants  should  not  be  neglected.  Dur- 
ing the  winter  the  plants  should  be  kept  in  a  cool  house, 
and  will  need  careful  attention  in  watering,  ventilating 
and  fumigating.  The  amount  of  heat  they  will  require 
will  depend  upon  their  condition,  and  the  time  the 
flowers  are  needed;  as  a  rule,  40  to  45  degrees  at  night, 
and  ten  degrees  higher  during  the  day,  will  be  satisfac- 
tory. As  the  principal  call  for  these  plants  is  at  Easter, 
most  of  them  should  be  brought  into  flower  at  that  time, 
but  by  taking  a  little  pains  to  accelerate  some  plants  and 
retard  others,  their  development  will  be  so  distributed 
that  they  can  be  had  in  bloom  for  several  months. 
While  in  flower,  if  in  a  cool  house  they  will  last  longer. 
After  flowering,  they  should  not  be  neglected,  as,  if  they 
are  not  given  proper  attention  at  this  time,  they  will  not 
make  a  satisfactory  growth,  and  flower  buds  will  not  be 
formed.  They  should  be  kept  in  a  partially  shaded 
house  until  the  middle  oY  last  of  May,  when,,  if  settled 
weather  has  come,  they  should  be  plunged  in  some  par- 
tially protected,  but  unshaded,  place  in  light,  well- 
drained  soil.  Marsh  hay,  or  some  similar  material,  will 
be  desirable  as  a  mulch  to  keep  the  roots  cool  and, 
unless  they  have  been  repotted,  a  thin  covering  of  rotted 
131 


132 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


manure  will  be  of  advantage.  Frequent  Avatering  and 
syringing  will  be  necessary,  but  v/hile  they  should  not  be 
allowed  to  get  dry  at  the  roots,  care  should  be  taken  not 
to  give  them  an  excess  of  water,  since,  plunged  as  they 
are,  it  might  be  fatal  to  them.  Good  results  can  also 
be  obtained  in  a  well-ventilated  and  partially  shaded 
greenhouse. 

For  the  use  of  the  florist,  at  least  one-half  of  the 
plants  should  be  Avhite  and  the  others  mostly  pink  or 


FIG.  48.     AZALEA  IN  COMPACT  FORM. 

salmon,  although  a  few  scarlet  and  variegated  ones  will 
be  valuable  in  the  collection.  Deutsche  Perle  is  one  of 
tiie  best  early  whites,  and  Bernhard  Andrea  alba  will 
also  be  satisfactory.  Vervasneana,  Imporatrice  des  Indes 
and  Simon  Mardner  are  among  the  best  pink  and  rose 
sorts,  while  Cocarde  Orange,  scarlet,  and  Mme.  Camille 
Van  Langhenhove,  variegated,  have  shown  up  well.  Aza- 


HYDRANGEAS.  133 

leas  succeed  well  in  a  soil  composed  of  one  part  each  of 
fibrous  peat,  rotten  peat  and  garden  loam,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  sand  in  proportion  to  the  character  of  the  soil. 
In  Fig.  48  is  shown  a  well-grown  azalea,  with  a  compact 
head,  while  Fig.  49  shows  a  more  open  form,  which 
would  be  preferred  by  many.  The  principal  enemies  of 
the  azalea  are  the  red  spider  and  thrip,  for  which  reme- 
dies are  given  elsewhere,  together  with  descriptions  of 
the  insects  themselves. 

HYDRANGEAS. 

As  a  house  plant,  or  for  the  florist,  to  be  used  for 
purposes  of  decoration,  the  hydrangea  is  always  desir- 
able. Coming  as  it  does  at  Easter,  it  can  be  used  to 
good  advantage  for  decoration,  or  in  baskets  or  designs 
of  cut  flowers,  and  tlie  sale  of  plants  in  five-,  six-,  or 
seven-inch  pots  is  generally  large,  and  at  remunerative 
prices.  As  a  rule,  there  will  be  a  demand  for  the  plants 
as  late  as  May  or  June,  which  will  enable  the  florist  to 
clean  out  the  plants  that  were  late  in  coming  into  bloom. 
It  is  well  to  have  the  plants  out  of  the  way  as  early  as 
possible,  in  order  to  make  room  for  other  plants. 

.Hydrangeas  are  readily  propagated  from  half-hard 
cuttings,  struck  at  any  time  from  February  to  June  ;  for 
Easter  sales  they  should  be  in  the  cutting  bed  as  early  as 
March.  After  being  potted  off  they  can  be  handled  in 
various  ways,  that  requiring  least  care  being  to  plant 
them  out  as  soon  as  the  weather  permits,  in  the  open 
ground,  where  they  should  be  mulched  and  watered  if 
the  season  is  dry.  To  secure  bushy  plants,  they  should 
be  headed  back,  and  the  branches  pinched  once ;  late 
pinching  will  destroy  the  flower  buds  which  should 
form  the  first  season.  As  autumn  approaches,  they 
ihould  be  taken  up  and  potted,  using  pots  of  generous 
size.  To  ripen  the  wood,  they  should  be  ])laced  in  cold 
frames,  where  they  should  have  abundant  ventilation. 


134 


GREENHOUSE   MAXAGEMEXT. 


the  glass    oeing  removed   on  l)riglit   days.      Thorough 
ripening  is  necessary,  if  the  best  results  are  desired. 

When  the  weather  gets  cold,  tliey  should  be  phiced 
in  a  cool  greenhouse,  or  should  be  packed  away  in  a  cool 
pit,  where  they  should  be  kept  in  a  dormant  condition 
until  January.  About  twelve  weeks  will  be  required  to 
bring  them  into  flower,  and  the  time  of  starting  them 
will  depend  upon  the  date  at  which  Easter,  or  any  othei 


FIG.  49.     AZALEA  WITH  AN  OPKX  HKAU. 

occasion  for  which  they  are  desired,  comes.  At  first, 
they  should  be  given  50  to  55  degrees  at  night;  this  may 
soon  be  raised  to  60  or  65  degrees,  and  even  70  degrees 
may  be  given,  if  necessary,  in  order  to  bring  them  into 
bloom  in  time.  After  they  are  thoroughly  started,  the 
plants  will  nse  a  large  amount  of  water  and  should  not 
be  stinted.  When  they  have  filled  the  pots  with  roots, 
they  should  receive  li({uid  manure  two  or  three  times  a 
week  and  a  top-dressing  of  half  an  inch  of  well-rotted 


HYDRANGEAS. 


135 


manure  will  be  of  advantage  to  the  plants.  At  no  time 
during  their  growth  should  they  be  crowded  as,  for  the 
best  development,  they  need  an  abundance  of  room. 
In  order  to  form  a  symmetrical  plant,  the  branches 
should  be  staked,  and  if  the  shoots  are  too  thick  the 
weaker  ones  should  be  removed.  In  order  to  harden 
the  plants,  as  soon  as  the  flowers  have  expanded,  they 


PIG.  50.     HYDRANGEA  OTAKSA. 

should  be  given  a  lower  temperature  and  an  abundance 
of  air. 

Another  method  is  to  grow  the  plants  in  pots, 
plunged  in  the  ground  out  of  doors.  Here  they  will 
require  the  same  care  as  when  planted  in  the  ground, 
except  that  more  attention  to  watering  them  should  be 
given.  By  July  they  should  be  large  enough  to  be  shifted 


I3G  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

to  six-inch  pots,  and  should  then  he  headed  hack,  their 
final  pinching  heing  given  in  August.  The  cuttings  made 
as  lute  as  June  are  hest  grown  in  a  cool  honse,  daring  the 
summer,  either  in  pots  or  planted  in  the  beds.  If  large 
specimen  plants  are  desired,  they  can  be  obtained  by 
cutting  back  the  old  plants  after  flowering,  and  growing 
them  another  year. 

The  best  varieties  are  Hydrangea  rosea,  Otaksa  (Fig. 
50),  and  Thos.  Hogg.  A  red-branched  variety  is  also 
quite  popular  as  a  house  plant,  but  it  does  not  force  as 
well  as  the  others.  The  Eosea  is  the  earliest  to  flower, 
and  is  generally  of  a  clear  pink,  although,  like  all  of  the 
others,  its  color  is  variable.  Otaksa,  with  flesh  colored 
flowers,  is,  perhaps,  most  grown  by  florists,  as  it  is  most 
in  demand  as  a  house  plant.  The  Thos.  Hogg  is  a  white 
variety,  and  is  especially  desirable  for  Easter  decora- 
tions. By  the  use  of  iron  filings  in  the  soil,  or  by  a{)ply- 
ing  alum  water,  the  flowers  of  this  variety,  and  of 
Otaksa,  take  on  a  light  blue  color.  Peat  or  soil  con- 
taining iron,  will  have  the  same  effect. 

If  hydrangeas  are  kept  dormant  nntil  March  or 
April,  they  will  come  into  flower  in  May  or  June,  and 
will  make  excellent  plants  for  the  porch  or  veranda,  and 
in  tubs  or  vases  can  be  used  with  good  efi'ect  upon  the 
lawn. 

CYTisrs  (Genista). 

Although  this  maybe  classed  among  the  old-fashioned 
flowers,  it  is  one  of  the  most  useful  to  the  florist  and 
IS  one  of  the  best  spring-blooming  house  plants. 
Cytisus  ( Genista)  Canariensis  has,  in  the  past,  been  most 
commonly  grown  by  florists,  but  C.  racemosus  is  now 
taking  its  place;  by  some  it  is  regarded  as  a  distinct 
species,  but  it  is  quite  likely  only  a  garden  variety.  It 
difl^ers  from  C.  Canariensis  in  having  longer  and 
pointed  leaflets  and  a  longer  raceme  of  larger  flowers. 

Either  form   is   readily  propagated  from  cuttings 


CTTISUS. 


137 


taken  off  in  February  or  March.  They  need  only  ordi- 
nary care,  but  should  be  kept  in  growth  during  the  sum- 
mer. Tliey  may  be  planted  in  the  open  ground  in  May 
and  left  there  until  September,  when  they  should  be 
taken  up  and  potted,  or  they  may  be  placed  in  four-inch 


FIG.  51.     CYTISUS. 

pots  and  plunged.  They  may  also  be  grown  in  a  cool, 
well-ventilated  greenhouse  and  should  in  any  case  be 
large  enough  to  go  into  five-  or  six-inch  pots  by  Septem- 
ber. They  naturally  branch,  but  they  can  be  thickened 
up  by  pinching  them  in  once  or  twice.     Some  florists 


138  GKEENHOUSE  MAN"AGEMENT. 

even  use  sheep  shears  in  cutting  them  back  and  thus  jn'o- 
duce  a  dense  head.  If  desired  in  a  standard  form,  they 
can  be  so  grown  hj  selecting  a  strong  plant,  and  train- 
ing it  to  a  single  stem  to  tlie  bight  desired  and  rnbbing 
off  all  side  shoots.  It  is  then  topped  and  a  head  formed. 
Dnring  the  winter  the  plants  are  allowed  to  rest  at 
a  temperature  of  45  or  50  degrees,  until  within  seven  or 
eight  weeks  of  the  time  the  flowers  are  desired,  after 
which  they  will  need  60  or  65  degrees.  With  proper 
handling,  a  plant  can  be  kept  in  flower  for  two  to  fonr 
weeks,  and  a  succession  of  bloom  can  be  secured 
for  six  weeks  or  two  months.  After  flowering,  they 
should  be  given  a  partial  rest  for  two  or  three  months, 
when  they  should  be  repotted,  and  plunged  out  of  doors. 
The  after-treatment  is  the  same  as  for  small  plants. 
An  average  sized  potted  plant  is  shown  in  Fig.  51. 

ARDisiA  [Ardisia  cremilata). 

Tliis  plant  adds  to  an  attractiveness  in  leaf  and 
flower,  that  of  showy  red  berries,  whicli  often  hang  on 
for  a  twelve-month.  While  it  can  be  grown  from  half- 
hard  cuttings  dnring  the  summer,  the  use  of  seed  is 
more  simple  and  gives  better  plants.  These  should  be 
sown  in  an  open,  sandy  soil,  and  if  phiced  in  a  stove 
temperature  Avith  a  strong  bottom  heat,  should  germi- 
nate in  two  weeks.  Although  the  seeds  germinate  thus 
readily,  the  seedlings  are  somewhat  difficult  to  start  into 
growth.  The  stronger  ones  should  be  potted  off  and 
kept  rather  close  until  they  have  become  established. 
They  should  be  kept  growing  until  in  four-  or  five-inch 
pots,  and,  as  soon  as  these  are  filled,  liquid  manure  should 
be  given  until  the  blossoms  form.  To  aid  them  in  set- 
ting their  fruit,  they  shonld  be  kept  in  a  rather  dry 
atmosphere  and  near  the  glass.  If,  after  the  fruits  have 
set,  they  are  kept  at  45  or  50  degrees,  they  will  last 
much  longer.     During  their  growth,  they  do  best  if  kept 


GARDENIA.  139 

at  a  stove  temperature  during  the  summer,  after  which 
they  will  be  best  at  50  to  55  degrees  until  the  period  of 
growth  begins  in  February,  when  the  temperature  should 
be  raised. 

When  the  plants  lose  their  lower  leaves,  if  rested 
and  then  cut  back  and  repotted,  a  new  head  can  be 
formed.  Young  plants  are,  however,  most  satisfactory. 
The  thick,  waxy  leaves  of  the  Ardisia  render  it  little 
subject  to  insect  attacks,  although  the  scale  and  mealy 
bug  are  sometimes  troublesome;  they  readily  yield,  how- 
ever, to  the  usual  remedies. 

THE  GARDENIA  {Gardenia  floHda). 

When  grown  in  a  warm,  moist  atmosi)here,  and 
kept  free  from  scale,' mealy  bugs  and  other  insects,  this 
plant,  with  its  profusion  of  white,  waxy  flowers,  with 
their  unequalled  fragrance,  and  shining,  gi-een  leaves,  is 
certainly  worthy  of  admiration.  It  is  readily  propagated 
from  half-hard  cuttings  under  a  handglass,  or  in  a  propa- 
gating case,  with  strong  bottom  heat.  The  rooted  cut- 
tings should  be  potted  in  fibrous,  sandy  soil,  and  should 
be  gradually  hardened,  but  to  avoid  a  check  they  should 
be  kept  at  a  stove  temperature  with  bottom  heat.  They 
like  a  peaty,  fibrous  soil  with  an  admixture  of  sand,  and, 
with  proper  attention  in  the  way  of  watering  and  repot- 
ting,' cuttings  struck  in  the  early  winter  will  make 
sti-ong  plants  in  one  season.  During  their  growth,  the 
water  supply  should  not  be  stinted,  and  frequent  spray- 
ings should  be  given.  When  the  growth  is  completed, 
they  should  be  allowed  to  ripen  their  wood,  and  then 
receive  a  partial  rest  by  restricting  their  heat  and  mois- 
ture. Young  plants,  at  most  two  years  old,  should  be 
used,  and  it  will  not  pay  to  at':empt  to  recuperate  a 
stunted  plant.  Gardenias  are  quite  subject  to  the  attack 
of  some  of  the  more  common  greenhouse  insects,  such  as 
the  red  spider  and  scale,  but  with  proper  care  they  will 


140 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


not  "be  troublesome.     If  tliey  make  tlieir  appearance  tlie 
ordinary  remedies  can  bo  used. 

THE   FORCING    OF   HARDY   PLANTS. 

Although  this  is  a  comparatively  new  industry,  it  is 
worthy  the  attention  of  every  retail  florist,  as  tbe  flowers 


from  many  of  the  hardy  plants  have  much  merit  for 
cutting,  in  themselves,  and,  what  is  of  fully  as  much 
importance,  they  arc  a  new  thing  and  out  of  season,  and 


FORCING   OF  HARDY   PLAINTS.  141 

are  likely  to  be  much  sought  after,  if  properly  brought 
to  the  attention  of  the  public. 

A  considerable  number  of  the  hardy  shrubs  are  well 
adapted  for  forcing,  but  the  best  results  will  be  obtained 
from  those  that  naturally  flower  outside  previous  to  the 
first  of  June,  We  should  also  select  well-grown  plants, 
that  have  been  prepared  for  the  purpose,  and  be  sure  that 
they  have  a  resting  period  of  at  least  two  or  three 
months,  before  they  are  brought  into  heat.  Deuizia 
gracilis  and  D.  scahra  were  among  the  first  to  be  forced, 
and  are  well  adapted  for  it.  The  various  kinds  of  lilac, 
[Syr'inga  vulgaris  and  its  varieties,  also  S.  Persica)  Fig. 
52,  force  readily.  The  many  varieties  of  mock  orange 
{Pldladelplius  coronarius)  are  also  easily  forced,  as  are 
the  snowball  ( Vibur7ium  Opulns  sterilis)  and  V.  pUca- 
tum.  Spirwa  Van  Houttii  and  Exocliorda  grandifiora 
give  good  results,  but  they  should  be  kept  cool  and 
forced  slowly.  Among  the  other  plants  adapted  for 
forcing  are  Azalea  mollis,  Kalmia  glaiica  and  K.  latifolia 
(Fig.  hV),  Daphne  Cneorum  and  Andromeda  speciosa  and. 
A.  Jloribunda. 

The  plants  may  be  cheaply  imported  from  Europe, 
all  prepared  for  forcing,  or  they  may  be  grown  by  the 
florists.  "Whether  tlie  small  plants  are  propagated,  or 
purchased  from  some  nurseryman,  they  should  be 
planted  out  in  nursery  rows  and  grown  for  two  or  three 
years.  In  order  to  secure  a  mass  of  fibrous  roots  that 
will  favor  their  growth  in  pots,  they  shcnild  be  trans- 
planted each  year.  When  strong  enough  for  forcing, 
they  should  be  dug  as  soon  as  the  leaves  drop  in  the  fall, 
and  potted  off,  using  a  liglit,  but  rich  compost.  Wet 
down  thoroughly  and  set  in  some  sheltered  place  until 
there  is  danger  of  the  cracking  of  the  pots  by  frost, 
when  they  should  be  removed  to  a  deep,  cold  pit.  Here 
they  will  require  no  care,  except  an  occasional  watering 
if  they  become  dry,  and  airing  on  warm,  or  bright,  days. 


142 


GKEEl^rHOrSE   MANAGEMENT. 


About  Christmas,  the  first  batch  can  be  started,  and 
others  may  follow  at  intervals.  Place  at  first  in  a  cool 
greenhouse  and  gradually  increase  the  temperature  until 
it  is  60  degrees,  at  which  time  the  growth  should  be 
started.     The  development  of  the  buds  can  be  aided  if 


FIG.  53.     KALMIA  LATIFOLTA. 

the  shrubs  are  frequently  sprinkled.  The  care  needed 
by  these  jjlants  is  about  the  same  as  that  recpiired  for 
other  plants  under  similar  conditions. 

While  most  of  tiie  herbaceous  plants  will  have  little 
value  for  forcing  after  the  first  season,  many  of  the 


CALCEOLAKIAS.  143 

deciduous  shrubs  can  be  used  more  than  once.  After 
flowering,  they  should  be  removed  to  a  cool  room  and 
from  there  to  a  cold  pit,  from  which  they  should  be 
planted  again  in  nursery  rows,  and  in  two  years  can 
again  be  used  for  forcing. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

CALCEOLARIAS. 

The  public  is  beginning  to  appreciate  the  value  of 
calceolarias  as  spring-blooming  pot  plants.  They  are 
very  interesting  in  their  structure  and  striking  in  their 
general  appearance  (Fig.  54).  For  early  planting,  the 
seeds,  which  should  be  of  some  choice  strain,  are  sown 
as  early  as  the  middle  of  June,  but  for  April  flowering, 
during  which  month  they  should  be  in  their  prime, 
reliance  should  be  had  on  July-sown  seed,  while  to 
secure  a  later  succession  another  batch  should  be  put  in 
some  time  in  August. 

The  seed  should  be  sown  in  shallow  pans  upon  a 
light  compost,  with  a  slight  covering  of  sifted  soil,  and 
placed  in  a  cool  house,  or,  better,  a  frame,  which  should 
be  well  ventilated  and  shaded.  If  the  frame  is  in  a 
sheltered  spot,  faced  to  the  North,  and  a  lath  screen  is 
used  in  addition  to  a  shaded  sash,  which  is  raised  a  few 
inches  above  the  frame,  we  have  given  the  seeds  and 
future  plants  as  nearly  perfect  surroundings,  during  a 
hot,  dry  summer,  as  can  be  secured.  As  soon  as  large 
enough,  the  seedlings  should  be  pricked  out  into  flats,  and 
later  into  two-  and  three-inch  pots,  using  a  rich,  fibrous 
compost  composed  of  equal  parts  of  rotted  sods,  loam, 
decayed  manure  and  sand.  Leaf  mold  can  be  added  to 
advantage  for  the  small  plants.     The  plants  should  be 


144 


GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


returned  to  the  frame  and  kept  there  until  November ; 
they  will  need  copious  watering,  on  which  account  per- 
fect drainage  is  necessary.     The  leaves  should  be  kept  as 


FIG.  54.      SPKCIMEN  CALCEOLARIA. 

dry  as  possible,  except  that  they  should  have  a  gentlo 
syringing  on  warm,  sunny  mornings. 

The  green  fly  must  he  kept  down  at  all  hazards,  as, 
if  it  gets  the  start,  it  will  be  hard  to  control ;  to  aid  in 
this,  chopped  tobacco  stems  may  be  scattered  between 


CALCEOLARIAS. 


145 


the  pots,  both  in  the  frame  find  in  the  house.  As  soon 
as  the  phmts  begin  to  be  pot-bonnd,  shift  into  four-inch 
pots  and  later  into  five-  and  six-inch.  They  sho^^ld  be 
removed  into  a  cool  greenhouse,  where  they  can  be  kept 
at  about  40  degrees,  as  soon  as  there  is  danger  of  frost 
working  into  the  frame,  which  should  be  covered  upon 
cold  nights  with  mats,  during  tlie  last  month.     Keep  the 


FIG.  55.     CINERARIA  HYBRIDA. 

plants  near  the  glass,  but  shade  from  the  direct  sun- 
light. 

The  early  started  plants  should  be  established  in  their 
flowering  pots  by  the  first  of  December,  and  should  be 
in  flower  soon  after  New  Year's.  During  the  winter, 
give  ventilation  even  on  cold  days,  and  give  attention  to 
the  watering,  so  that  the  plants  can  by  no  chance 
10 


14G  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

become  dry.  Keep  the  moisture  off  the  leaves  as  much 
as  i^ossible.  As  soon  as  the  roots  fill  the  pots  after  the 
final  shift,  supply  manure  water  liberally,  but  discon- 
tinue its  use  when  the  flowers  begin  to  open. 

In  addition  to  the  plentiful  use  of  tobacco  stems 
upon  the  greenhouse  benches,  to  keep  the  aphis  in 
check,  frequent  light  fumigations  should  be  given. 
To  avoid  disease,  keep  the  leaves  dry,  and  at  once 
remove  and  destroy  all  diseased  and  decaying  leaves. 
With  careful  management,  the  greenhouse  can  be  kept 
in  a  blaze  of  color  from  January  until  the  middle  of 
May,  and  florists  will  find  a  growing  demand  for  cal- 
ceolarias as  house  plants. 

CINERARIAS. 

The  greenhouse  cineraria  occupies  about  the  same 
place,  both  in  the  conservatory  and  the  house,  as  the 
calceolaria,  and  it  flowers  at  about  the  same  time.  The 
single  forms  are  of  little  value  for  cut  flowers,  but  some 
of  the  double  kinds  may  become  useful.  The  cineraria 
is  even  more  injured  than  the  calceolaria  by  a  hot,  dry 
air,  and  a  slight  frost  that  might  not  affect  the  calceo- 
laria would  prove  very  injurious,  if  not  fatal,  to  it. 
Like  that  plant,  its  greatest  enemy  is  the  green  fly,  but 
the  principal  reliance  must  be  placed  on  the  chopped 
tobacco  stems,  or  the  vapor  from  tobacco  tea,  or  extract, 
ds  tobacco  smoke,  unless  in  a  mild  form,  affects  the 
foliage.  Unlike  the  calceolaria,  the  cineraria  delights  in 
water  upon  its  leaves  and  on  every  bright  morning,  even 
in  winter,  the  plants  should  be  syringed. 

In  a  general  way,  its  care  is  the  same  as  given  for 
the  calceolaria,  and  may  be  briefly  stated  as  follows : 
Sow  the  seeds  in  shallow  pans,  from  June  to  August ; 
prick  out  the  young  plants  in  flats  or  pots,  and  later 
transfer  to  three-inch  pots,  repotting,  before  growth  is 
checked,  into  five-  or  six-inch  pots.     Sometimes  they  can 


CIN"ERARIAS. 


147 


be  made  to  fill  even  larger  sizes.  The  soil  should  be  of 
a  rich,  liglit  compost,  with  an  increased  amount  of 
manure  for  the  older  j)lants.  Cinerarias  should  be  kept 
in  a  well-shaded  frame  or  cool  house  from  the  time  the 
seed  is  sown  until  October,  when  they  should  be  placed 
where  they  can  be  kept  at  45  degrees  at.  night.  The 
plants,  when  in  large  pots,  should  have  liquid  manure 


FIG.  56.      SINGLE  CHINESE   I'KlIMKuSE. 

once  or  twice  a  week.  By  careful  attention  to  the  time 
of  sowing  the  seed  and  to  the  forwarding  of  the  plants, 
constant  bloom  can  be  secured  through  the  winter  and 
spring.  While  the  method  will  not  be  much  used  in 
practice,  a  promising  plant  can  be  perpetuated  by  taking 
off  and  rooting  the  suckers  that  form  after  the  flowers 
fade.     A  well-grown  specimen  plant  is  seen  in  Fig.  55. 


148  GREENHOUSE   MA2S"AGEMEJfT. 

PRIMULAS. 

Although  more  modest  in  their  ai^pearance  than  the 
showy  calceolaria  and  cineraria,  the  i^rimula  (Fig.  5G)  has 
been  and  still  is  a  more  general  favorite.  The  sorts  that  are 
most  commonly  grown  are  the  single  and  double  forms 
of  the  Chinese  primi-ose  {Primula  Smensis).  The  sin- 
gle primulas  may  be  divided  into  two  classes,  the  fimbri- 
ated and  the  fern-leaved,  each  of  which  lias  flowers  in 
two  colors,  white  and  rose.  They  are  grown  from  seed 
from  May  to  July,  iYi  well-drained  seed  pans.  The  soil 
should  be  light  and  fibrous,  and  the  covering  sliould  be 
light  and  evenly  distributed.  If  the  soil  is  well  mois- 
tened before  the  seeds  are  sown,  a  glass  laid  over  the  pans 
will  hold  the  moisture  so  that  but  little  more  need  be 
.ajiplied,  if  they  are  placed  in  a  cool,  shaded  frame.  The 
seedlings  should  be  pricked  out  into  pans  or  fiats,  which 
should  be  well  drained,  and  the  transfer  to  pots  and  tlie 
repotting  should  be  the  same  as  for  cinerarias  ;  as  a  rule, 
however,  the  plants  can  fiower  in  five-inch  pots.  After 
they  get  to  growing,  they  should  bo  well  watered  and 
the  foliage  should  be  wet  down  occasionally  on  bright 
mornings  during  the  summer;  after  winter  comes  on, 
the  leaves  should  be  kept  rather  dry.  After  the  middle 
of  September,  the  plants  should  be  grown  in  the  house 
at  an  average  temperature  at  night  of  50  degrees.  As 
with  the  other  plants  of  this  kind,  liquid  manure  should 
be  applied  as  soon  as  they  have  filled  the  pots,  after  the 
last  shift. 

Primulas  should  be  kept  near  the  glass,  and, 
although  they  like  a  certain  amount  of  sunlight,  they 
require  partial  shade,  during  the  heat  of  the  day  in  sum- 
mer, from  its  full  intensity.  It  is  well  to  pinch  the 
flower  buds  from  young  plants,  as  it  checks  the  growth 
of  the  plants  if  they  are  allowed  to  develop.  In  potting 
the  primulas,  care  should  be  taken  not  to  press  the  soil 
too  firmly,  as  it  would  obstruct  the  free  j)assage  of  the 


MIGNONETTE.  140 

water.  In  repotting,  while  it  is  advisable  to  keep  the 
lower  leaves  well  down  ujion  the  soil,  the  crown  should 
not  be  covered. 

The  double  primulas  are  increased  by  division. 
After  flowerijig,  the  leaves  are  removed  from  the  lower 
portion  of  the  stems  and  moist  sphagnum  is  packed 
around  them.  If.  placed  in  a  frame,  and  kept  rather 
cool  and  moist  for  a  couple  of  weeks,  roots  will  form 
and  the  branches  can  be  taken  off  and  repotted.  For  a 
few  days,  until  they  become  established,  they  should  be 
kept  rather  close,  after  which  they  should  be  gradually 
hardened.  The  plants  require  about  the  same  care  as 
the  single  sorts,  except  that  as  they  are  forced  for  their 
flowers,  a  somewhat  higher  temperature  should  be  given 
them. 

Another  species  of  primula,  P.  dbconica,  has  for 
several  years  been  considerably  grown,  but  has  now 
nearly  gone  out  of  use,  from  the  fact  that  it  is  poisonous 
to  many  persons;  but  for  this,  it  is  a  desirable  plant,  as 
it  is  multiplied  readily,  either  by  division,  or  seeds,  and 
furnishes  its  delicate  pinkish-white  flowers  in  profusion. 

Although  it  is  easier  to  keep  the  aphis  in  check 
upon  primulas  than  on  either  cinerarias  or  calceolarias, 
as  they  admit  of  fumigation,  it  is  always  well  to  keep 
the  benches  strewn  with  tobacco  stems  as  a  precaution. 

MIGNONETTE. 

Few  plants  can  be  grown  with  as  little  care  and 
attention,  and  yet  the  number  of  florists  who  reach  the 
highest  success  with  mignonette  is  comparatively  small. 
A  narrow,  span-roof  house,  with  a  solid  bench  on  either 
side  of  the  walk,  seems  best  adapted  to  this  crop. 
Thorough  drainage  should  be  secured,  and  in  no  way 
can  it  be  obtained  more  readily  than  by  placing  drain 
tile  across  the  beds,  about  fifteen  inches  below  the  sur- 
face.    They  will  have  a  marked  effect  if  placed  twelve 


150  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

to  twenty-fonr,  or  eyen  as  mncli  as  tliirty-six,  inches 
apart,  but  a  closer  arrangement  will  be  better. 

The  soil  for  the  plants  should  be  not  less  than  fif- 
teen inches  deep  and  many  of  the  best  growers  prefer 
eighteen  or  twenty.  Its  composition  may  vary  consid- 
erably, but  a  preparation  of  four  parts  well-rotted  sods, 
four  parts  of  garden  loam  and  one  part  of  decomposed 
manure  is  desirable.  In  filling  the  beds  with  this 
amount  of  soil,  more  than  usual  care  is  necessary  that  it 
be  well  pressed  down  and  compacted.  If  the  compost  is 
coarse,  a  fine  seed  bed  can  be  obtained  by  spreading 
sifted  soil  over  the  bed  to  the  depth  of  an  inch.  The 
bed  should  be  sown  before  it  has  time  to  dry  out,  the 
usual  date  being  about  the  first  of  August,  or  a  little 
earlier  in  some  cases,  in  drills  fifteen  inches  apart,  cov- 
ering with  sifted  soil  to  the  depth  of  three-eighths  of  an 
inch.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  scatter  sand  in  the  drills  in 
which  the  seeds  are  to  be  sown,  and  to  use  the  same 
material  for  covering  them.  The  bed  should  now  be 
thoroughly  watered,  and  from  this  time  it  should  not 
be  allowed  to  become  dry.  The  use  of  cloth  or  lath 
screens,  until  the  plants  have  appeared,  is  desirable, 
after  which  they  should  be  removed.  The  ventilation 
should  be  ample,  preferably  from  the  ridge,  and  air 
should  be  given  at  all  times,  as  the  plants,  at  this  jieriod 
of  their  growth,  should  be  kept  cool.  Good  results  can 
also  be  obtained  in  shallow  beds,  by  placing  an  inch  of 
cow  manure  in  the  bottom  and  filling  up  with  three  or 
four  inches  of  rich  but  light  compost. 

When  the  true  leaves  appear,  the  plants  should  be 
thinned  so  that  they  will  stand  at  least  twelve  inches 
apart  in  the  rows.  In  about  two  months  the  flowers  will 
form,  and  if  large  spikes  are  desired  the  laterals  that 
form  on  the  leading  shoots  should  be  removed.  This 
should  also  be  done  with  the  shoots  that  appear  later  on, 
as  fine  spikes  can  only  be  secured  when  disbudding  is 


MIGNOXETTE. 


151 


FIG.  57.      JIACHJIT  MIGNONETTE. 


152  GREENUOUSE   MAN'AGEMEifT. 

carefully  done.  A  night  temjjerature  of  ,45  degrees  is 
generally  considered  u  maximum  for  the  mignonette  and 
40  degrees  is  preferred  by  many ;  during  the  day  the 
ventilation  should  be  such  as  will  keep  the  temperature 
as  near  58  degrees  as  possible.  In  caring  for  this  crop, 
the  well-known  grower,  Mr.  J.  N.  Ma^^  of  Summit, 
N.  J.,  uses  fine  brush  stuck  into  the  soil  around  the 
plants  to  supjiort  the  spikes,  and  this  seems  as  good  as 
any  other  way  of  trellisiug,  although  a  desirable  method 
is  shown  in  Fig.  57. 

Where  the  caterpillars  are  troublesome,  the  method 
used  by  Mr.  May  to  keep  out  the  moths  will  be  desira- 
ble ;  it  consists  in  covering  all  openings  with  mosqui-to 
netting.  The  use  of  hellebore,  slug  shot,  or  of  Paris 
green,  either  in  water  or  plaster,  in  a  very  dilute  form, 
will  also  be  a  sure  remedy.  The  most  destructive  dis- 
ease of  this  crop  is  described  and  figured  in  Chapter 
XXV. 

The  seed  ordinarily  sold  is  very  uneven  and  much 
of  it  will  give  worthless  plants.  It  is  always  desirable, 
after  securing  a  good  strain  of  mignonette,  to  select  seed 
for  future  use  from  the  plants  that  are  nearest  to  per- 
fection. In  this  way  the  type  will  be  fixed  and  an 
improved  strain  for  forcing  Avill  be  secured.  The  variety 
known  as  Machet  (Fig.  57)  is  one  of  the  best  for  forcing; 
it  has  a  strong  stem,  dark  green,  healthy  foliage,  and 
the  spike  is  large  and  fragrant.  Miles  Spiral  is  ji referred 
by  some. 

Some  growers  have  had  good  success  with  pot  cul- 
ture. The  seeds  are  sown  in  flats  or  beds,  and  the  seed- 
lings pricked  out  into  two-inch  pots.  When  large 
enough  to  repot,  they  are  transferred  to  four-inch  pots, 
using  very  rich  soil.  They,  of  course,  will  need  to  be 
staked  and  tied  and  should  receive  the  same  care  as 
when  OTOwn  in  beds. 


CHAPTER  X. 


PERNS. 


For  greenhouse  or  house  decoration,  or  for  supply- 
ing florists  with  "green,"  ferns,  and  Adiantums  in  par- 
ticular, are  very  useful.  While  many  sjjecies  are  easiest 
propagated  by  the  division  of  the  plants,  others  are  com- 
monly grown  from  spores,  which  should  be  sown  at 
once,  although  the  spores  from  some  species  can  be  kept 
for  some  time.  They  should  be  sown  either  in  pans  or 
pots,  or  on  beds,  using  garden  loam,  over  which  half  an 
inch  of  fine  sphagnum  should  be  placed.  Moisten  this 
thoroughly  and  scatter  the  spores  evenly  over  it,  and 
after  sprinkling  cover  with  glass.  Water  only  when 
they  show  they  are  dry.  Keep  covered  until  the  seedlings 
have  started.  It  will  be  best  to  prick  out  the  young 
seedlings  into  flats,  from  which  they  should  later  be 
transferred  to  pots.  Pot  them  in  soil  one-half  leaf 
mold  and  the  remainder  of  loam  and  sand.  For  propa- 
gating on  a  large  scale,  a  box  covered  with  a  glass  sash, 
of  suitable  size,  will  answer.  The  seed  bed  can  be  pre- 
pared upon  the  bench  itself.  Ferns  for  dwellings  should 
be  grown  at  55  to  60  degrees,  as  they  will  then  be  firm 
and  well  hardened,  and  will  thrive  far  better  than  soft, 
spindling  plants,  in  the  dry  atmosphere  of  the  living 
room.  For  small  fern  pans,  two  or  three  plants  will  be 
enough.  Fern  pans  can  be  filled  to  advantage  by  using 
some  erect  growing  kind  in  the  center,  with  fine  Adian- 
tums, Selaginellas  or  similar  kinds,  around  it. 

Many  varieties  are  readily  increased  by  dividing  the 
crowns.  To  increase  them  rapidly,  they  should  be 
bedded  out  where  they  can  be  kept  well  moistened  at  a 
153 


154  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMEJST. 

temperature  of  60  to  65  degrees.  In  dividing  and 
transferring  to  pots,  it  is  hardly  desirable  to  make  a  very 
fine  division,  as,  although  more  plants  can  be  obtained, 
they  will  be  slower  in  starting  and  less  satisfactory. 
During  the  spring  and  early  summer,  the  young  plants 
should  be  kept  in  a  cool  house  or  in  a  frame,  whe'-e 
they  can  be  properly  shaded  and  watered. 

If  to  be  used  for  cutting,  the  best  results  can  be 
obtained  if  the  plants  are  bedded  out.  This  should  be 
done  early  in  August,  in  order  that  the  plants  may  have 
time  to  develop  and  harden  off.  The  beds  should  con- 
tain from  four  to  five  inches  of  compost,  consisting  of  two 
parts  i)asture  sods  and  one  part  each  of  sand  and  rotten 
manure.  For  most  ferns  a  temperature  of  60  to  65 
degrees  is  desirable,  and  the  stove  ferns  are  benefited  il 
it  is  slightly  higher,  although  some  of  the  greenhouse 
species  do  well  if  it  is  considerably  lower. 

For  the  florist's  use,  in  addition  to  the  well-known 
AcUantum  ctmeatnm  and  gracillimum,  such  others  as 
A.  elegans,  A.  Capillus- Veneris,  A.  concinnKm  nud  A.  c. 
latnm,  A.  St.  Caiherina  and  A.  decorum  will  bo  useful. 
Adiantum  Farleyense  (Fig.  58)  is  among  the  best  of  the 
Adiantums  for  decorative  purposes,  but  except  for  very 
elaborate  cut-flower  work,  it  will  be  less  useful  than 
some  of  the  more  delicate  sorts.  The  Pteris  serrulata 
and  P.  s.  cristata,  and  other  forms  that  are  readily 
grown,  are  also  desirable  for  planting  out,  either  on  or 
under  the  benches,  while  Pterin  tremula,  and  its  varie- 
gated form,  P.  argijrea,  and  P.  cretica  alba  lineata 
should  not  be  neglected. 

When  ferns  are  shifted,  or  planted  out,  they  should 
be  shaded  from  the  bright  sun  for  several  days,  and  the 
foliage  should  be  frequently  syringed.  If  to  be  used  for 
cutting,  after  they  have  made  their  growth,  the  shading 
should  be  taken  off,  and  abundant  ventilation  should  be 
given,  in  order  that  the  fronds  may  harden  off,  and  thus 


155 


stand  up  longer  when  used.  The  florist  will  find  spec- 
imen plants,  and  baskets  and  pans  of  ferns  useful  in  dec- 
orating his  house,  as  well  as  for  outside  work.     If  well- 


grown  and  of  well  selected  kinds,   the  visi':or  will  be 
attracted  to  them,  and  they  will  have  a  ready  sale. 

For  large  conservatories   the   large   tree   ferns   are 
quite  desirable..    While   the  Dichsonia,    Cyuthea,  and 


156 


GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


other  similar  forms,  grow  very  slowly,  and,  as  a  result, 
are  imported  in  a  dormant  condition,  at  a  large  expense, 
the  Alsojjhila  Australis  is  quite  rapid  in  its  growth  and 
is  readily  i)ropagated  from  spores. 

Ferns  tlirive  in  a  moist  atmosphere,  but  while  they 
need  a  steady  supply  of  moisture  at  their  roots,  an  excess 
is  sure  to  bring  serious  conseqnences.  The  thrip  and 
scale  are  among  the  worst  insect  enemies  of  ferns.     For 


^ftTT^- 


/ 


,,=3^"^ 


FIG.  59.     BOSTON  FERN  (NEPHROLEPI8  EXALTATA  B09T0NIENSIS). 

the  former,  the  frequent  spraying  of  the  plants  with 
tobacco  decoction  will  be  found  useful,  or  moderate 
fumigation  may  be  employed  upon  the  stronger  kinds. 
The  scale  insects  are  most  likely  to  make  their  appear- 
ance on  plants  that  have  been  neglected,  and  if  they 
appear  the  ]ilants  should  be  dipped  or  s])rayed  with  ker- 
osene emulsion,  or  fir  tree  oil,  and  i-eceive  better  atten- 
tion in  the  future. 

Ferns,  as  a  rule,  do  not  thrive  as  house  plants,  but 
for  this  purpose,  the  sword  fern  {JVephroIejjis  exaltata) 


SMILAX.  157 

is  one  of  tlie  best,  as  it  can  stand  a  dry  room  better  than 
most  of  them.  A  variety  of  tlie  sword  fern  to  which  the 
name  of  iV".  exaltata  Bostoniensis  (Fig.  59)  has  been 
given,  has  been  recently  introduced.  It  has  a  graceful 
drooping  habit  and  seems  well  adapted  to  house  culture. 
Of  the  more  delicate  and  yet  easily  grown  kinds  are 
Davallia  Fijiensis,  Onychium  Japonicum,  Microlepia 
Mrta  cristata  and  the  Gymnogrammes  (gold  and  silver 
ferns). 

SMILAX. 

This  for  many  years  has  been,  and,  in  fact,  it  is  yet, 
one  of  the  most  commonly  grown  and  the  most  useful  of 
the  plants  used  by  the  florist  as  ''green."  It  is  readily 
grown  from  seed,  which  should  be  sown  any  time  from 
January  to  March,  after  soaking  it  for  twenty-fours  in 
warm  water.  The  seedlings  should  be  potted  off,  and 
as  soon  as  they  fill  the  thumb  pot  they  should  be  shifted 
to  the  three-inch  size.  With  proper  care,  they  should  be 
ready  to  plant  out  by  June  or  July.  While  deep,  raised 
beds  are  often  used  for  growing  smihix,  less  constant 
attention  to  watering  will  be  required  if  it  is  grown  in 
solid  beds.  In  the  first  case,  five  or  six  inches  of  rich 
compost  will  be  required,  while  for  the  latter  it  should 
be  at  least  eight  inches  deep.  It  is  desirable  that  there 
should  be  ten  or  twelve  inches  between  the  rows,  and  six 
or  seven  between  the  plants.  For  the  training  of  the 
smilax.  No.  14  galvanized  wire  should  be  stretched  in 
two  lines  above  each  row,  one  line  being  near  the  bed 
and.  the  other  from  six  to  ten  feet  higher.  The  green 
twine,  thread,  silkalene,  or  other  material,  used  for 
training  the  smilax,  should  be  fastened  to  these  wires 
above  and  below.  '  As  the  shoots  start  into  growth,  they 
should  be  trained  up  the  proper  strings,  and  they  will 
need  frequent  attention  that  none  of  them  get  astray. 
Watering  should,  of  course,  not  be  neglected,  and  on 


158  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

bright  days  syringing  will  be  helpful.  After  the  first 
crop  is  off,  an  applicatioa  of  manure  may  be  made  to  the 
surface  of  the  bed,  or  reliance  may  be  had  on  liquid 
manure. 

While  the  principal  call  for  smilax  is  at  Christmas 
and  Easter,  it  is  needed  at  all  times  during  the  year, 
and  a  supply  should  always  be  kept  on  hand.  Many 
growers  throw  out  their  smilax  beds  at  the  end  of  each 
year,  but  unless  they  have  been  unduly  forced,  good 
results  can  be  obtained  from  them  for  several  years.  If 
to  be  retained,  they  should  be  dried  off  and  kept  dor- 
mant for  two  or  three  months  in  the  summer,  and  before 
they  are  brought  into  growth  again  the  surface  soil 
should  be  removed  and  replaced  with  a  rich  compost. 
If  dried  off  in  the  early  sprino-,  a  bench  can  be  erectec 
over  the  bed  for  bedding  or  other  plants. 

Smilax,  to  be  well  grown,  should  have  a  night  tem- 
perature of  60  degrees,  with  the  usual  increase  durmg 
the  day.  .As  with  ferns,  after  the  growth  has  been 
made,  if  it  is  hardened  by  gradually  increasing  the 
amount  of  ventilation,  smilax  will  keep  longer  after  it  is 
cut.  Under  the  best  conditions,  a  crop  can  be  secured 
by  November,  and  two  others  can  be  taken  off  during 
the  season,  but,  as  a  rule,  two  crops  are  all  that  can 
be  cut. 

ASPARAGUS. 

This  valuable  climber  was  slow  m  coming  into  favor 
with  the  public,  partly  because  it  was  by  many  associa- 
ted with  the  vegetable  of  the  same  name,  but  it  now 
seems  to  have  come  to  stay.  In  a  general  way,  its  culti- 
vation is  about  the  same  as  has  been  given  for  smilax, 
from  which  it  differs  principally  in  its  method  of  propa- 
gation. Asparagus  is  best  propagated  from  cuttings  of 
the  young  stems.  If  made  in  May  and  rooted  under  a 
hand  glass,  or  in  a  propagating  case,  they  will  be  strong 


ASPARAGUS. 


159 


FIG.  60.     ASPARAGUS  SPKENGEBI. 


160  GREENnOUSE   MAXAGEMENT. 

enough  to  give  a  fair  crop  the  second  year.  A  more 
common  method  is  by  tlie  division  of  the  old  phmts, 
and,  after  jiotting  them  off  in  light  soil,  plunging  in  a 
mild  bottom  heat. 

Strong  plants  should  be  set  preferably  in  solid, 
although  they  will  do  fairly  well  in  deep,  raised  beds, 
about  ten  or  twelve  inches  apart;  if  planted  closer  than 
this,  every  other  plant  should  be  removed  after  the  sec- 
ond year.  If  well  grown,  from  three  to  five  strong 
shoots  should  be  obtained  from  each  plant.  Asparagus 
is  forced  for  several  seasons,  being  best  from  the  second  to 
the  fourth  year.  During  the  summer,  it  should  be  dried  off, 
from  June  until  August,  and  treated  the  same  as  smilax. 

The  species  most  commonly  grown  is  Asparagus 
plumof<us\  although  a  dwarf  form,  A,  phimosus  natius,  is 
preferable  for  many  purposes.  The  latter  is  more  nearly 
like  a  fern,  as  a  rule  being  only  eighteen  or  twenty 
inches  high,  and  as  it  has  shorter  Joints,  it  is  much  more 
plume-like  in  appearance.  A  new  form.  Asparagus 
Sjjrengeri  (Fig.  60),  is  claimed  to  be  a  strong  grower, 
but  of  graceful  habit,  and  of  a  bright  green  color.  It  will 
remain  fresh  for  a  considerable  time  even  in  a  heated 
atmosphere.  When  grown  rapidly.  Asparagus  phimosus, 
and  to  some  extent,  its  dwarf  variety,  has  the  habit  of 
sending  up  stems  with  the  lower  part  devoid  of  foliage, 
and  as  this  is  worthless,  some  growers,  among  them  W. 
H.  Elliott.  Brighton,  Mass.,  have  erected  houses  with 
high  roofs  (Fig.  61  ),  thus  enabling  them  to  cut  a  good 
'^string"  above  the  bare  portion  of  the  ])lant.  Aside 
from  their  delicacy,  and  their  rich,  green  color,  all  the 
greenhouse  species  of  asparagus  are  found  more  valuable 
than  smilax  for  decorations,  or  for  cut-flower  work, 
where  permanency  is  desirable,  as  tliey  will  remain  fresh 
for  a  number  of  days,  if  the  ends  are  in  water. 

The  temiieruture  required  is  slightly  lower  than  is 
needed  by  smilax,  but  with  the  exception  of  this,  and 


ASPARAGUS. 


161 


162  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

the  points  noted  above,  tlie  care  required  is  not  unlike 
that  needed  by  that  well-known  plant. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

PALMS,    PANDANUS  AND   ARAUCARTAS. 

Few  families  of  plants  contain  more  cultivated 
species  than  does  the  one  to  which  the  common  name  of 
^palm  has  been  given.  Although  they  have  for  long 
years  been  grown  quite  generally  in  greenhouses,  they 
are  coming  more  and  more  into  favor  for  purposes  of 
decoration.  The  well-known  Fan  palm  (commonly 
known  as  Latania),  and  the  Corypha,  with  its  broad 
leaves,  were  formerly  used  for  this  purpose,  but  they 
were  often  badly  torn,  even  with  tbe  most  ciireful  han- 
dling, and  tliey  did  not  grow  in  favor;  although  desira- 
ble in  the  conservatory,  other  kinds  are  now  regarded  as 
more  useful.  The  present  favorites  are  some  of  the  pin- 
nate leaved  Arecas  and  Kentias,  and  they  seem  admir- 
ably adapted  for  it,  as  they  are  not  injured  by  rough 
usage,  and  as  they  succeed  better  than  most  palms  in  a 
dry  atmosphere,  they  are  much  used  as  house  jilants. 

Nearly  all  palms  grow  readily  from  seed,  and 
although  thousands  are  imjiorted  annually,  hundreds  of 
thousands  are  each  year  grown  in  this  countiy  from 
imported  seed.  The  seed  should  be  obtained  as  fresh  as 
possible  *and  planted  immediately,  in  sandy  loam  soil, 
in  a  good  bottom  heat.  Although  they  can  be  sown  on 
the  beds,  it  is  best  to  use  pans,  pots,  or  boxes,  in  order 
to  be  sure  of  proper  drainage.  While  70  degrees  can  be 
taken  as  an  average  temperature  for  germination,  some 
stove  plants  need  more,  and  a  few  greenhouse  forms  will 
start  as  well  at  a  lower  temperature.     If  the  seeds  are 


PALMS,  pa:;:;a]s'US  and  araucarias. 


163 


large,  with  thick,  bony  coverings,  germination  can  b^ 
aided  by  filing  through  the  shell  and  soaking  for  twenty- 
four  hours  in  hot  water. 

As  soon  as  properly  germinated,  the  plants  should  be 
potted  off  in  three  parts  rotten  sods  (or  two  parts  of  leaf 
mold  and  two  of  rotten  sods),  one  part  of  rotten  manure 
and  one  part  of  sand;  if  the  soil  is  stiff,  a  little  peat  or 
leaf  mold  can  be  added  to  advantage.     During  the  sum- 


FIG.  62.     FAN  PALM  LiviSTONA  (Lataiiia    CMnensis). 

mer,  the  young  plants  should  be  kept  in  the  gi-owing 
house  at  about  70  degrees. 

Some  of  the  plants  with  small  leaves  grow  quite  well 
in  comparatively  small  pots,  but  as  soon  as  they  fill  them 
with  roots,  liquid  manure  should  be  added.  As  a  rule, 
there  is  more  harm  done  from  over-potting  them  than 
from  under-potting.  In  case  a  plant  needs  a  change  of 
soil,  when  a  shift  is  not  desirable,  the  loose  soil  can  be 
removed  and  the  roots  cat  away,  and  the  plant  can  ^o 


164 


GREENHOUSE    MANAGEMEJSIT. 


back  into  the  old  size  without  crowding.  Whenever 
palms  are  repotted,  they  should  be  shaded  and  carefully 
syringed  "for  a  few  days.  As  the  season  of  growth 
approaches,  unless  the  plant  is  repotted,  liquid  manure 
should  be  api^licd.    Oftentimes  it  will  be  of  advantage  to 


FIG.  63.     DWAUK  KM  1  \N   I'M  M  {/!Ji/(ph  humHifX 

remove  the  surface  soil  from  around  a  plant  and  rephice 
it  with  rich  compost. 

During  the  summer,  it  is  well  to  remove  the  large 
plants  from  the  house  and  plunge  them,  under  a  partial 
shade,  out  of  doors,  wbere  they  will  be  somewhat  shel- 
tered from  strong  winds.     A  lath  screen  makes  an  excel- 


PANDANUS.  165 

lent  covering  for  palms  and  similar  plants.  Many  of 
the  palms  can  be  kept  in  the  full  light,  but  should  be 
plunged  in  the  ground  to  lessen  the  danger  of  their  dry- 
ing out.  If  properly  supplied  with  water,  palms  are 
better  off  out  of  doors  than  in  the  house  ;  although  the 
leaves  may  become  slightly  yellow,  they  will  recover  their 
green  color   on  being  returned  to  the  house. 

As  noted  above,  while  the  Latania  (Fig.  G2) 
(properly  Livistona  Chinensis)  and  Corypha  {Livistona 
Australis)  are  much  used,  both  for  the  greenhouse  and 
house,  the  forms  commonly  known  as  Kentias  {Hoioea 
Belmoreana,  H.  Fosteriana  and  BJiojMlosfylis  Baueri), 
the  Arecas  {Areca  lutescens,  A.  ruhra  and  HyopJiorhe 
Verschaffeltii) ,  Seaforthias  {Archontojjlioenix  Alexandrm 
and  A.  Cunninghamiana),  Date  Palms  [Phoenix  dacty- 
lifera,  P.  riipicola  and  P.  recUnafa),  and  Ehapis 
(Bhapis  fiahelliformis  and  B.  hnmiUs)  (Fig.  63),  are 
generally  useful  and  are  much  more  grown. 

PANDANUS. 

These  plants,  commonly  known  as  Screw  Pines, 
"from  the  spiral  arrangement  of  their  leaves,  are  both 
interesting  and,  particularly  in  the  variegated  forms, 
attractive.  Pandanus  ntilis,  the  best  known  species,  is 
easily  grown  from  seeds,  which  start  readily  in  a  strong 
heat,  and  should  be  potted  off  in  a  rich,  sandy  compost 
containing  leaf  mold  or  rotten  sods.  During  the  sum- 
mer, they  need  a  partial  shade  and  a  high  temperature. 
In  well-drained  pots,  they  can  use  large  quantities  of 
water  during  the  growing  period.  The  air  should  be  kept 
moist  at  that  time  by  frequent  syringings,  but  in  the 
winter  water  should  be  used  sparingly,  both  in  the  pots 
and  on  the  leaves. 

The  other  forms  that  are  commonly  grown  are  P. 
candelabrum  {Javanicus)  variegatus  and  P.  Veitcliii,  the 
latter  being  more  useful  than  either  of  the  others.    They 


166  GKEENHOUSE  3IANAGEMENT. 

are  propagated  by  taking  off  and  rooting  the  suckers 
which  form  about  the  base  of  the  plants.  If  these  are 
placed  in  sand  in  a  propagating  case,  they  will  take  root 
readily,  and  can  tlien  be  potted  off.  These  s]ieci«s 
require  the  same  care  as  lias  been  outlined  for  the  P. 
utilis. 

THE   ARALIA. 

Of  the  other  decorative  plants,  none  are  bettor  than 
the  Aralia  (including  Panax  and  Fatsia).  While  the 
common  hardy  and  h;df-hardy  species  grow  readily  from 
cuttings  of  the  roots,  only  a  few  of  the  store  species  of 
the  Aralia,  such  as  A.  Guilfoylii,  propagate  with  ease 
from  cuttings  of  the  stems,  and  other  forms,  such  as 
A.  leptojjhylla  and  A.  VeiicMi,  are  generally  grafted. 
The  above  mentioned  forms  are  among  the  best  of  the 
Aralias  proper.  Aralia  V.  gracillima  has  long,  nar- 
row, undulated  leaflets  (with  white  midribs),  and  is 
an  improvement  on  the  species. 

Panax  plumofitim  and  P.  Victoria,  both  probably 
varieties  of  P.  fruticosum,  are  delicate  plants,  witii  plume- 
like leaves,  which  are  variegated  in  the  latter.  They 
are  propagated  by  means  of  either  stem  or  root  cuttings, 
or  by  suckers.  The  more  showy  stove  Aralias  are  now 
placed  with  Fntsias.  Of  these  Fatsia papy rif era,  F.  Japon- 
ica  (syn.  A.  Sielmldii),  and  the  white  and  yellow  varie- 
gated forms  of  the  latter,  are  especially  valuable.  They 
are  propagated  from  seeds,  from  suckers,  or  from  cut- 
tings of  the  stems. 

The  plants  of  all  these  genera  need  a  rich  compost, 
of  equal  parts  of  rotten  sods,  manure  and  sand. 

AEAUCAltlA. 

This  is  one  of  the  few  conifers  grown  in  green- 
houses. The  more  common  species  are  Araucaria 
exceha,  the  Norfolk  Island  Pine,  and  A.  imbricata,  the 
Chilian  Pine.     Propagation  is  by  seeds  or  cuttings.     The 


ARAUCARIAS. 


lei 


seeds  are  a  long  time  in  germinating,  and  generally  haye 
a  low  vitality.  Tliey  should  be  sown  in  a  mild  heat. 
If  cuttings  are  used,  they  are  taken  from  the  tops  of 
plants  in  the  autumn  and  placed  in  sand,  where  they 
should  be  kept  at  a  cool  house  temperature  until  they 
begin  to  callus,  after  which  they  should  have  a  gentle 


I'iG.  C4.    THE  VAi:iEf;AT?:n  aspidistka. 

heat.  Then  jjlace  in  four-inch  pots,  using  rich  loam 
and  sand,  and  keep  rather  close  until  they  have  become 
established,  when  tliey  need  more  air  and  water.  After 
this,  they  need  ordinary  care  and  should  be  repotted 
each  summer  before  growth  begins,  until  they  are  in 
eight-inch  pots ;  after  that,  once  in  two  or  three  years 
will  answer. 


168  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

ASPIDISTRA. 

This  genus,  of  wliich  Aspidistra  lurida,  with  its 
variegated  form  (Fig.  64),  is  the  best  known  species,  is 
of  value  as  a  house  plant,  and  to  the  florist,  to  be  used 
in  decorations,  on  accouut  of  its  hardiness  and  its  ability 
to  stand  rough  treatment.  It  is  propagated  by  division, 
and  with  an  abundance  of  moisture  and  a  moderate 
temperature,  it  makes  a  rajiid  growth.  A  compost  of 
rotten  sods,  sand  and  manure  in  equal  parts  seems 
adapted  to  it. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

DRAC^NAS  AND  CORDTLINES. 

.  The  value  of  these  plants  is  each  year  more  and 
more  recognized  by  florists,  as  their  use  for  decorations 
is  better  understood  ;  their  increased  popularity  is  also 
undoubtedly  due  to  the  many  distinct  and  beautiful 
varieties  that  have  been  brought  out  in  recent  years.  In 
these  two  genera  are  found  a  large  number  of  plants, 
most  of  which  are  commonly  known  as  Dracgenas,  but 
which  are  properly  termed  Cordylines.  It  is  not  strange 
that  the  nomenclature  should  be  confused,  as  the  genera 
contain  many  i)lants  that  can  only  be  distinguished  by 
tlieir  flowers  and  fruits,  both  of  which  are  small  and 
inconspicuous.  The  Dracsenas,  as  a  rule,  have  but  a 
single  ovule  in  each  cell  of  the  ovary,  while  the  Cordy- 
lines have  many ;  the  flowers  of  the  Cordyline  are  also 
much  smaller  than  those  of  the  Dracaena. 

In  the  genus  Dracaena,  we  flnd  only  a  few  species  in 
cultivation,  D.  concinna,  D.  Draco,  D.  elliptica,  D. 
fragrans  and  its  varieties,  D.  Goldiana  and  D.  margi- 
nata  being  best  known.  Among  the  Cordylines  are 
the  following  species  and  varieties :     G.  amdbilis,  Aus- 


DRA.C^I^rAS  AND   CORDTLINES.  169 

traits,  Baptistii,  cannmfolia,  excelsa,  gloriosa,  imperi- 
alis,  indivisa  and  its  varieties,  magnifica,  splendens, 
strida,  stricta  congesta,  terminalis  and  Youngii.  Sev- 
eral of  the  above,  whicli  are  often  put  down  as  species, 
are  merely  varieties  of  the  well-known  Cordyline  [Dra- 
cmna)  terminalis. 

Many  of  the  Cordylines  produce  seed  abundantly, 
and  these  can  be  used  for  propagation  ;  they  are  sown  in 
light,  sandy  soil,  at  a  temperature  of  60  degrees,  and  are 
potted  off  and  treated  the  same  as  cuttings.  Cuttings 
of  the  stems  are  commonly  used  for  the  propagation  of 
the  less  common  species,  as  well  as  Dracsenas.  The 
tips  can  be  top-layered,  or  can  be  cut  off  and  rooted; 
the  lower  portions  of  the  stems  are  then  cut  into  pieces 
two  or  three  inches  in  length,  and  these  are  placed  on 
the  sand  of  a  cutting  bench  and  covered  with  sphagnum; 
they  may  be  covered  with  sand  or  light  soil,  but  there  is 
more  danger  of  decay.  The  fleshy  roots  of  some  species 
may  be  treated  in  the  same  way.  In  a  strong  bottom 
heat  and  with  proper  watering,  sprouts  will  soon  be  sent 
out  from  both  the  stem  and  root  cuttings,  and  as  soon  as 
these  are  of  suitable  size  they  should  be  cut  off  and 
rooted  the  same  as  any  other  cutting.  In  a  propagating 
case,  there  will  be  but  little  risk,  but  it  is  still  surer  to 
root  them  in  water,  or  by  the  saucer  system.  In  the 
case  of  choice  species,  the  cuttings  are  sometimes  set 
singly  in  small  pots,  filled  with  sandy  soil,  which  are 
then  plunged.  In  this  way,  all  danger  of  breaking  the 
roots  in  potting,  thus  checking  the  growth,  is  obviated. 
A  light,  rich  soil,  with  perfect  drainage,  seems  to  suit 
these  plants.  If  properly  handled,  they  can  be  kept  in 
quite  small  pots,  and  overpotting  should  be  carefully 
avoided. 

While  some  of  the  species  belong  in  the  stove,  others 
will  thrive  with  greenhouse  treatment.  During  the 
summer  they  can  be  kept  outside  in  a  frame,  or  in  a 


170  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

house  where  thorough  veutihition  and  frequent  syring- 
ings  can  be  given  ;  as  with  the  Croton,  the  red  spider 
and  thrip  are  the  worst  enemies  of  these  plants,  and  sim- 
ihir  remedies  should  be  given. 

Draccena  marginata  and  D.  fraqrans  are  about  the 
only  plants  of  that  genus  that  are  of  value  to  the  florist ; 
D.  Draco  is  a  magnificent  plant  for  a  large  conservatory, 
while,  although  D.  Goldiana  is  a  very  pretty  little  plant, 
it  is  of  small  value  commercially.  Of  the  Cordylines, 
G.  incUvisa,  Aiistralis,  grandis,  and  terminalis,  with 
their  many  varieties,  are  moat  useful.  Some  of  the 
varieties  with  large,  bright-colored  leaves,  such  as  G. 
Alsace-Lorraine,  Baptistii,  impei'ialis  and  gJoriosa  (syn. 
Shejjherdi),  present  a  more  striking  appearance  in  the 
conservatory,  and  if  carefully  handled  will  do  well  for 
decoration. 

CROTOXS    (CODI^UMS). 

Few  stove  plants  are  more  striking  in  their  appear- 
ance than  well-grown  Orotons  (or  Codigenms,  as  they 
are  more  properly  called),  and  none  are  easier  to  propa- 
gate and  care  for.  Although  it  is  supi)Osed  that  all  have 
come  fi"om  not  over  three  species,  the  vaiiatious  in  shape 
and  color  of  leaf,  and  the  habits  of  the  plant,  have  been 
so  great  that  there  are  hundreds  of  well-marked  varieties 
in  cultivation. 

"While  Codioeums  will  grow  at  temperatures  as  low 
as  50  or  55  degrees,  it  is  better  to  give  them  00  degrees 
as  a  minimum  night  temperature  in  winter.  They  are 
readily  propagated  by  top-layering  the  main  stem  or 
side  branches,  or,  as  is  much  easier  and  a  moi-e  common 
metliod,  by  terminal  cuttings  of  the  half-hard  wood. 
They  may  l3e  made  at  any  time,  but  generally  the  best 
plants  are  produced  when  started  in  the  winter  or  early 
spring.  The  cuttings  root  readily  when  placed  in  sand 
in  a  propagating  case  or  hotbed;  but  as  they  are  likely 


CROTONS.  171 

to  be  checked  if  the  roots  are  broken  in  potting,  it  is 
better  to  place  them  singly  in  small  pots  filled  with 
light,  sandy  soil,  and  plunge  in  strong  bottom  heat 
under  a  hand  glass,  or  other  propagating  case.  As  soon 
as  rooted,  they  should  be  gradually  hardened,  until  the 
pots  fill  with  roots,  when  they  should  be  rejiotted  in  a 
fibrous,  sandy  compost  and  returned  for  a  few  days  to 
the  propagating  case,  or  a  hotbed,  to  avoid  a  check ; 
after  being  hardened  and  established  they  may  be  taken 
out.  They  require  at  all  times  a  moist  atmosphere  to 
keep  them  free  from  the  red  spider,  and  hence  frequent 
syringing  is  necessary.  While  they  should  never  be 
allowed  to  become  dry,  care  should  be  taken  against 
over-watering,  and  as  a  safeguard  they  should  be  kept  in 
■as  small  pots  as  possible,  helping  them  out  in  their 
growth  with  liquid  manure.  The  use  of  water  from 
which  the  chill  has  been  taken  will  be  of  great  value. 
If  branching  plants  are  desired,  they  can  be  secured  by 
heading  back  the  main  stem  to  the  proper  point  and, 
later,  pinching  in  the  branches.  In  this  way,  large 
specimen  j^lants  can  be  grown.  In  order  to  have  them 
take  on  a  good  color,  they  should  be  given  as  much  light 
as  possible,  by  keeping  them  near  the  glass  and  out  of 
the  shade  of  other  plants. 

CodiaBums  can  be  used  to  advantage  in  brightening 
up  a  conservatory,  or  cool  house,  but  the  change  from 
the  stove  room  should  be  gradual,  lest  the  plants  receive 
a  check  and  the  leaves  drop.  While  they  have  been  used 
for  bedding  with  success  in  the  southern  part  of  the 
country,  it  is  only  in  warm  and  protected  situations  that 
they  thrive  north  of  latitude  41°.  When  thus  used  out 
of  doors  they  should  receive  daily  syringings. 

Among  the  best  varieties  are  Codimim  Disrcelii,  C. 
Evansianum,  C.  gloriosum,  C.  illustris,  C.  interruptum, 
C.  pictum,  C.  Queen  Victoria,  C.  reeurvifolium ,  C.  Roths- 
childianum,  0.  varieqatum,  C.  Veitchii  and  C.  volutum. 


172  GKEENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

With  the  exception  of  the  red  spider,  as  mentioned 
above,  the  only  other  really  troublesome  insect  enemy 
is  the  thrip,  but  with  a  proper  amount  of  moisture,  air 
and  light,  neither  of  them  is  particularly  to  be  feared. 

RUBBER   TREES. 

For  decorating  purposes,  or  as  a  house  plant,  the 
rubber  tree  has  few  equals,  owing  to  its  ability  to  with- 
stand rough  usage  and  neglect.  The  plants  are  gener- 
ally propagated  from  single  eye  cuttings,  and  in  this  way 
they  are  multiplied  quite  rapidly.  The  plants  are 
topped  about  the  first  of  January  and  the  tips  are  i)laced 
in  the  cutting  bed.  To  succeed  Avell  in  growing  plants 
by  this  method,  large,  plump  buds  are  desirable  and  the 
wood  should  be  quite  firm.  If  the  plants  are  started 
into  growth  as  they  siiould^  be,  the  buds  upon  the  stem 
towards  the  upper  end  will  swell,  and  the  stems  can  now 
be  cut  up  and  a  cutting  made  from  every  portion  that 
contains  a  bud.  If  the  wood  is  hard,  they  will  strike 
quicker  if  every  cutting  has  a  portion  of  bark  removed 
from  one  side  at  the  base  of  the  bud,  or  cuttings  can  be 
made  by  splitting  off  from  the  stem  the  buds  with  bits 
of  wood  two  inches  long  and  one-fourth  inch  thick. 
The  cuttings  need  a  strong  bottom  heat,  and  if  they  can 
be  in  a  propagating  case,  all  the  better.  Some  growers 
place  the  cuttings  in  pots  filled  with  leaf  mold  and  sand 
and  plunge  them  into  the  cutting  bed.  When  grown  in 
this  way,  the  lower  leaves  are  generally  quite  small  and, 
as  they  are  inclined  to  drop  from  the  stems,  the  cuttings 
are  likely  to  make  spindling  phmts. 

A  better,  but  a  slower  and  more  expensive,  method 
of  propagating  the  plants  is  by  top-layering.  For  this, 
a  plant  from  six  to  twelve  months  old,  with  sliort- 
jointed,  thick  stems,  should  be  selected,  and  one  that  has 
lost  its  lower  leaves  is  as  good  as  auy.  To  induce  them 
to  throw  out  roots,  the  stem  should  be  cut  or  pierced. 


CTANOPHYLLUM   AND   SPH^ROGYNE.  173 

the  best  way  being  to  bend  tlie  stem  and  make  a  sloping 
cut,  upwards  and  towards  the  center  of  the  stem,  from 
an  inch  and  one-quarter  to  an  inch  and  one-half  in 
length,  according  to  the  size  of  the  plant.  The  plant  is 
then  wrapped  with  wet  sphagnum,  or  moss  of  some 
kind,  and  staked  securely.  If  kept  properly  moistened, 
roots  will  soon  be  emitted  and  the  cutting  can  be  potted 
off  within  four  or  five  weeks.  The  buds  left  on  the 
stem  of  the  old  plant  will  soon  break  and  a  branching 
plant  will  be  formed.  When  propagated  in  this  way, 
the  young  plants  willbe  strong  and  vigorous  and  will  be 
clothed  with  large,  well-colored  leaves  from  the  pot  up,  ' 
and  the  time  required  will  be  comparatively  short.  The 
common  rubber  tree  and  its  variegated  form  are  both 
propagated  in  this  way. 

Eubber  trees  should  be  kept  at  about  GO  degrees, 
and  during  growth  need  an  abundance  of  liquid  manure 
and  frequent  shifting.  Ficus  Parcelli,  a  beautifully 
variegated  stove  plant,  is  readily  grown  from  cuttings  or 
eyes,  and  requires  the  same  care  as  Ficus  elastica,  except 
that  as  it  is  deciduous,  more  care  should  be  taken  to  give 
it  a  period  of  rest  during  the  winter. 

CTANOPHYLLUM  AND  SPH^ROGYNE. 

When  well-grown,  these  are  the  most  attractive  of 
our  stove  foliage  plants.  They  have  a  general  resem- 
blance, although  the  former  has  a  nearly  smooth  stem 
and  leaves,  while  those  of  the  latter  are  quite  hairy  and 
fuzzy.  They  can  be  grown  either  from  crown  or  eye 
cuttings,  or  from  seed,  if  it  can  be  secured.  The  eye 
cuttings  are  made  by  cutting  the  stenls  into  pieces  about 
two  inches  long,  with  a  node  at  the  center,  and  then 
splitting  them,  so  that  one  of  the  opposite  buds  will  be 
in  each  half.  The  cuttings  may  be  placed  on  a  layer  of 
sphagnum  in  a  propagating  case  and  covered  with  sand, 
or,  as  is  better  if  only  a  few  are  to  be  grown,  by  filling  a 


1T4  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

small  pot  half  full  of  fibrous  peat,  or  sphagnum,  and 
after  the  cuttings  have  been  j^laced  upon  it,  filling  the 
pots  with  sand  and  plunging  in  a  hotbed  or  propagat- 
ing case.  As  soon  as  rooted,  they  should  he  repotted  in 
a  mixture  of  fibrous  peat,  rotten  sods  and  sand.  Thor- 
ougli  drainage  is  desii-able,  but  the  atmosphere  can 
hardly  be  kept  too  moist,'  as  the  leaves  expand ;  if  the 
air  is  allowed  to  become  dry,  the  leaves  will  be  shrivelled 
and  imperfect. 

During  the  resting  period,  in  winter,  the  tempera- 
ture may  drop  to  60  or  bo  degrees,  but  while  making 
their  growth  they  like  a  temperature  of  75  or  80  degrees. 
When  jiroperly  grown,  they  will  be  but  little  trouble, 
but  they  should  be  carefully  watched  that  the  mealy 
bug  does  not  gain  a  foothold. 

The  most  desirable  species  of  these  plants  are 
Sphmrogyne  latifoUa  and  Cyanopliyllwfn  magnificum.  The 
foliage  of  the  former  has  a  particularly  unique  appear- 
ance, owing  to  a  well-marked  network  that  extends  over 
the  leaves. 

MARANTAS  AND   CALATHEAS. 

The  genus  Maranta  formerly  contained  a  large 
number  of  desirable  stove  plants,  but  most  of  them  have 
now  been  placed  in  the  genus  Calathea.  However,  as 
they  require  about  the  same  care,  they  can  be  treated 
together.  The  plants  have  tuberous  or  creeping  rhi- 
zomes, and  one  species  yields  the  arrow  root  of  com- 
merce. Although  most  of  the  species  can  be  readily 
propagated  by  dividing  the  plants,  the  long  rhizomes 
can  also  be  made  into  cuttings.  If  cut  up  into  pieces 
two  inches  in  length,  and  these  are  placed  in  moist 
sphagnum  in  a  hotbed  or  propagating  case,  tiie  dor- 
mant eyes  will  each  throw  out  shoots.  These  can  be 
separated,  rooted  and  potted  off  the  same  as  any  cutting. 

The  Maranta  thrives  in  a  loose,  rich,  moist  soil, 
composed  of  rotten  sods  or  leaf  mold,  peat  aud  sandy 


KEtENtHES.  It5 

loam,  with  perfect  drainage.  If  propagated  by  division, 
the  best  time  is  in  the  spring  before  growth  starts  ;  the 
pLints  should  be  shaken  and  the  rhizomes  separated, 
leaving  at  least  one  eye  npon  each  piece.  After  being 
potted,  they  should  be  watered  and  placed  in  a  hotbed 
or  propagating  case  nntil  they  become  established. 
After  being  gradually  hardened,  they  can  be  taken  out. 
During  the  summer,  they  like  an  abundance  of 
moisture,  particularly  in  the  air,  which  can  be  secured 
by  frequent  syringings.  During  the  summer  they 
should  have  partial  shade,  with  partial  rest  in  the  win- 
ter, and  repotting  will  be  desirable  in  the  spring. 
Among  the  best  varieties  are  Maranta  hicolor,  M.  Chim- 
ioracensis,  M.  Porteana,  and  M.  smaragdina.  Of  the 
Calatheas,  we  have  Calathea  Kerclioviana,  C.  Legrelli- 
ana,  C.  Leitzi,  C.  Makoyana,  O.  Massangeana,  C.  i^osea- 
picta,  C.  Van  der  Hechei,  C.  Veitchii,  C.  Warscewic- 
xii  and  C.  zebrina. 

NEPENTHES. 

This  interesting  genus  of  plants  is  not  difficult  of 
cultivation,  if  a  proper  amount  of  moisture  in  the  air  is 
provided.  They  are  projiagated  from  tip  cuttings,  or  by 
cutting  the  ripened  stem  into  pieces  one  or  two  inches 
long  and  placing  them  in  moist  sphagnum  and  fibrous 
peat  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat,  in  the  same  way  as  the 
Dracaena  is  increased.  Nepenthes  thrive  best  in  orchid 
baskets  in  fibrous  peat  and  sphagnum,  and  as  soon  as 
the  shoots  have  thrown  out  roots,  they  should  be  so 
arranged.  The  plants  should  never  be  allowed  to 
become  dry,  and  during  their  period  of  growth  frequent 
syringings  should  be  given  them.  The  temperature  for 
Nepenthes  should  not  be  allowed  to  drop  below  60 
degrees.  When  well  grown,  each  leaf  should  bear  at  its 
extremity  a  pitcher  from  two  to  six  inches  in  length, 
according  to  the  variety.     Among  those  of  easy  culture 


176 


GREEKHOUSE  MAiq-AGEMEKT. 


DIEFPENBACHIAS.  177 

are  such  well-known  sorts  as  Nepentlies  Dominiana,  N. 
Hookeriana,  N.  Mastersiana  and  X.  Rafflesiana. 

DIEFFENBACHIAS. 

The  plants  of  this  genns  are  very  attractive  arjd  are 
readily  grown.  They  are  generally  propagated  by  cut- 
ting the  stems  into  single  eye  pieces,  and  if  these  are 
dipped  in  land  plaster  and  slightly  dried,  it  will  lessen 
the  liability  of  their  decaying  in  the  cutting  bed.  They 
can  be  started  in  the  same  way  as  explained  for  Cordy- 
lines,  or  pots  can  be  half  filled  with  sandy  soil,  on  which 
the  cuttings  are  placed,  and  the  pots  filled  Avith  sand  and 
plunged  in  a  brisk  bottom  heat. 

As  soon  as  the  roots  form,  the  cuttings  should  be 
potted  in  a  rich,  sandy  compost,  contciining  either  peat, 
or  rotten  sods.  Spring  is  the  best  time  to  propagate 
Dieflenbachias,  as  they  require  a  high  temperature. 
They  should  be  kept  near  the  glass,  and  repotted  as  is 
necessary.  If  desired,  bushy  plants  can  be  secured  by 
heading  them  in,  and  by  a  liberal  use  of  manure  water 
they  can  be  grown  to  a  large  size.  They  need  a  moist 
atmosphere,  and  during  the  summer,  syringing  should 
not  be  neglected,  as  otherwise  the  red  spider  will  gain 
the  ascendency. 

Among  the  best  kinds  are  the  Dieffenhacliia  Bausei, 
D.  Bowmanni,  D.  Leojioldii,  D.  magnijica,  D.  regina, 
and  D.  rex.  Eesembling  the  above  are  several  desirable 
species  of  Schismutoglottis,  which  are  grown  in  about 
the  same  way  as  Dieffenbachias. 

ANTHURIUMS. 

In  every  collection  of  stove  plants  there  should  be 
at  least  a  half  dozen  species  of  this  showy  and  interest- 
ing aroid.  The  two  classes,  flowering  and  foliage, 
give  us,  on  the  one  hand,  a  variety  of  large,  velvety, 
distinctly  veined  leaves,  and,  on  the  other,  flowers  that 
are  very  durable,  always  present,  and  striking  in  form 
13 


1:^8 


GREEXnOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


ANTHURIUMS. 


179 


and  coloring.     By  hybridizing,  many  new  and  promising 
varieties  have  been  recently  brought  out. 

They  are  readily  grown  from  seeds,  when  they  can 
be  obtained,  but  the  usual  method  is  by  means  of 
suckers  and  cuttings  of  the  rootlike  stem.  The  cuttings 
root  readily  in  most  sj)ecies,  but  they  should  not  be 
taken  off  until  roots  have  been  formed.      Anthuriums 


FIG.  67.      AGLAONEMA  PICTUM. 

need  a  temperature  of  at  least  55  degrees  except  when  in 
flower,  when  they  may  be  kept  sliglitly  lower,  al- 
though some  of  tlie  foliage  sorts  are  benefited  by  60  or 
65  degrees  at  night.  A  slight  shade  from  the  bright 
gun  is  beneficial  to  them,  and  like  all  plants  of  the 
kind,  they  need  an  abundance  of  water  while  growing 
and  should  never  be  allowed  to  become  dry.  In  the  sum- 
mei'  a  daily  syringing  should  be  given  them,  with  sligh^ 


180  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

Tentilation.  Thorough  drainage  is  necessary  for  them, 
and  in  potting  the  pots  should  be  half  filled  with  broken 
crocks  on  which  the  plants  should  be  placed  in  a  com- 
post made  of  fibrous  peat,  sphagnum,  fine  crocks  and 
sand,  formed  into  a  mound  from  one  to  three  inches 
above  the  top  of  the  pot.  The  plant  should  be  held  in 
place,  if  necessary,  by  means  of  small  stakes.  As  the 
plants  grow  they  should  be  repotted,  using  the  same  com- 
post with  the  addition  of  a  little  rotten  sods  and  manure, 
for  the  flowering  sorts  in  particular. 

Of.  the  more  desirable  and  common,  hence  lower 
priced,  sorts  are  Anihurium  Andreanum,  with  its  large, 
dark  red,  leathery  and  corrugated  recurved  spathe;  it  is 
easily  grown  and  a  perpetual  bloomer.  A.  Seller zerianum, 
with  long  leaves  and  scarlet  sj^athe  on  red  stems;  the 
spadixis  spotted  with  the  salmon  flowers.  A.  S.  maximum 
is  a  form  having  much  larger  spathes;  other  forms  of 
A.  Sr.herzeriamim  vary  in  the  color  of  their  spathes. 
A.  Ferrieriense  (at  upper  part  of  Fig.  65),  is  a  strong 
grower  resembling  A.  A7idreamim,  except  that  the 
spathe  is  reddish  pink  with  a  Avhite  spaclix.  The  spathe 
is  not  recurved  as  in  that  species.  There  are  also  many 
varieties  and  species  of  each  of  the  above.  Among  the 
foliage  anthuriums  the  better  kinds  are  A.  crysfallinum, 
(at  right  of  Fig.  65),  with  large,  cordate,  white  veined, 
dark  green  velvety  leaves;  A.  Waroqueanum  {center  ot 
Fig.  65),  deep  green,  velvety,  lanceolate  leaves  often 
thirty  inches  long  and  eight  or  ten  wide;  and  A.  regale, 
having  large  cordate  leaves  Avith  white  veins.  Anthuriitm 
ornatum  and  A.  sjjlendens  are  also  valuable.  One  thing 
that  makes  this  genus  of  plants  particularly  desirable  is 
that,  if  reasonably  well  cared  for,  none  of  the  insect 
pests  of  the  greenhouse  trouble  them. 

ALOCASTAS. 

Allied  to  i.nthurium  is  this  genus  of  foliage  plants, 
which,  when  well  grown,  present  a  striking  appearance, 


ALOCASIAS.  181 

with  their  distinctly  marked  and  often  oddly  shaped 
leaves.  Like  the  Anthuriums,  the  plants  are  propa- 
gated from  suckers,  seeds  or  cuttings  of  the  rhizomes. 
The  soil  suited  to  them  is  not  unlike  that  for  Anthu- 
riums, except  that  a  larger  proportion  of  lime  can  be 
used.  They  prefer  a  temperature  of  60  to  65  degrees  at 
night  during  the  winter,  and  75  or  80  degrees  in  the 
summer,  with  a  moist  atmosphere.  An  exception  to 
tliis  rule  regarding  the  soil  is  Alocasia  macrorhiza,  and 
its  variegated  form,  which  delight  in  a  rich  compost  of 
fibrous  loam,  sand  and  rotten  manure  in  equal  parts,  in 
which,  with  an  abundance  of  water  and  plenty  of  heat, 
they  will  grow  to  a  large  size.  One  of  the  most  inter- 
esting species  is  Alocasia  Thibautiana  (at  the  left  in  Fig. 
65),  which  has  curiously  lobed,  greenish-black  leaves, 
with  broad,  white  veins.  A.  metallica  (Fig.  66),  (prop- 
erly A .  ciq)rea)  has  glossy,  metallic,  dark  green  leaves, 
with  a  purj)le  luster  beneath. 

Aglaonema  (Fig. 67)  is  an  Arum  closely  allied  to 
Alocasia  and  requires  the  same  care. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

LETTUCE   FORCIXG. 

Within  the  last  ten  or  fifteen  years,  the  growing 
of  crops  of  winter  lettuce,  in  houses  especially  erected  for 
the  purpose,  has  become  quite  an  important  industry  in 
many  localities.  Owing  to  improper  methods  of  han- 
dling the  crop,  it  was  for  a  long  time  thought  that  hot- 
beds were  preferable  to  forcing  houses  for  lettuce  grow- 
ing, when  large  perfect  heads  were  desired,  but  except 
for  late  fall  and  early  spring,  they  are  but  little  used 
to-day. 

While  every  large  city  has  one  or  more  persons  en- 
gaged in  lettuce  forcing,  the  industry  seems  to  have 
reached  its  largest  dimensions  in  the  vicinity  of  Arling- 
ton, Mass.,  and  Grand  Rapids,  Mich.  Owing  to  the 
perfection  of  their  methods,  the  lettuce  growers  of 
Arlington  and  Belmont  have  been  able  to  compete  with 
local  growers,  in  the  New  York  market.  The  industry 
is  a  comparatively  new  one  in  Grand  Rapids,  as 
it  is  but  little  more  than  ten  years  since  Eugene  Davis 
engaged  in  the  business  upon  a  small  scale.  So  success- 
ful has  he  been  that  hundreds  have  gone  into  it,  and  the 
glass  area  useil  for  the  purpose  has  doubled  each  year 
since  1888,  until  in  1891  several  hundred  thousand 
square  feet  of  glass  were  used  in  the  erection  of  houses 
for  lettuce  forcin-j;-.  The  markets  of  Detroit,  Cleveland, 
Columbus,  Cincinnati,  Chicago,  Milwaukee  and,  in  fact 
nearly  all  of  the  large  cities  within  a  radius  of  from  300 
to  500  miles,  are  supplied  with  Grand  Rapids  lettuce, 
aud  it  has  been  sent  nearly  one  thousand  miles  to  New 
18^ 


LETTUCE  FOECING. 


183 


184  GEEENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT, 

York  city,  and  there  competed  successfully  with  the 
Long  Island  and  Arlington  product. 

Much  of  the  success  obtained  by  these  growers  is 
due  to  the  fact  that  they  have  varieties  well  adapted  for 
forcing,  and  yet  the  kinds  grown  at  Arlington  and  Grand 
Rapids  are  quite  unlike.  At  the  former  place,  and  in 
fact  throughout  the  lettuce-growing  section  of  New 
York,  New  England  and  New  Jersey,  the  cabbage  or 
head  lettuce  is  grown,  the  favorite  sorts  being  selected 
strains  of  White  Tennis  Ball.  Tiiose  that  seem  best 
adapted  for  the  purpose  are  Hot  House,  selected  and 
largely  grown  by  W.  W.  Eawson  of  Arlington,  Mass., 
and  Belmont  or  Big  Boston,  which  is  the  favorite  sort 
with  Hittinger  Bros,  of  Belmont.  At  Grand  Ra})ids, 
the  only  kind  grown  is  one  obtained  by  Mr.  Davis  by  se- 
lection from  Simpson,  and  which  is  known  as  Grand 
Rapids.  Although  in  many  markets  it  has  been  claimed 
thit  only  head  lettuce  would  sell,  the  dealers  l^ave  sel- 
dom been  able  to  supply  the  demand  for  Grand  Rapids 
lettuce  since  it  was  introduced. 

Among  the  strong  points  of  this  variety  may  be 
noted  (1)  its  early  maturity,  as  it  develops  about  one 
week  sooner  than  any  other  variety ;  (2)  the  closeness  of 
planting  that  it  will  admit  of,  owing  to  its  erect  habit  of 
growth.  This  permits  the  growing  of  as  large  heads 
when  planted  six  inches  each  way  as  can  be  obtained 
from  the  spreading  Tennis  Ball  sorts,  at  eight  inches. 
(3).  It  seems  to  ^„quire  less  care,  and  to  be  less  injured 
by  neglect  than  most  other  varieties.  Improper  ventila- 
tion or  watering  frequently  leads  to  the  appearance  of 
mildew,  rot  or  burning  of  the  leaves,  but  it  is  far  less 
noticeable  in  the  Grand  Rapids  than  in  any  other  variety. 

LETTUCE   HOUSES. 

The  even-sj^an  house  (Fig.  68)  is  still  commonly 
used  for  lettuce  growing,  but  is  being  supplanted  by 
the    three-quarter    span    house,    and    by    the    lean-to 


LETTUCE  HOUSES. 


185 


lettuce    house   (Fig.   69).      Unless  of    the    low  ridge 
and  fnrrow  plan,    lettuce  houses  should  not    be   less 


than   twenty   feet   wide,    and    preferably    should   be   as 
wide   as   thirty    to  thirty-three    feet.       Houses  forty 


186  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

and  fifty  feet  wide  are  not  uncommon  and  prove 
satisfactory.  The  lean-to  lettuce  house  described  in 
Greenhouse  Construction  is  cheaply  constructed  and 
gives  excellent  results,  particularly  if  built  upon  a 
side  hill,  but  the  three-quarter  span  house  is  sup- 
planting it  in  some  localities,  and  will  be  found 
preferable  for  houses  upon  level  ground  that  are  more 
than  thirty  feet  wide.  The  benches  may  be  either  raised 
or  solid,  a  common  plan  when  three  beds  are  used  in 
houses  twenty  feet  wide  being  to  have  one  solid  bed  in 
the  center  and  raised  benches  at  the  sides,  or  the  ar- 
rangement may  be  reversed.  In  some  of  the  large 
houses,  even  if  as  Avide  as  thirty-three  feet,  one  solid  bed 
is  made  in  the  center,  leaving  only  space  for  narrow 
walks  next  to  the  walls,  but  a  center  walk  in  addition  is 
desirable.  Solid  beds  raised  one  or  two  feet  above  the 
walks,  and  not  more  than  fifteen  feet  wide,  are  generally 
preferred  to  raised  benches. 

In  many  sections  where  fuel  is  cheap,  the  old-fash- 
ioned flue  is  still  used  with  good  results,  and  in  fact  a 
large  per  cent  of  Grand  Eapids  lettuce  is  grown  in  flue- 
heated  houses.  Steam  is  also  largely  used,  and  the  heat- 
ing plant  is  cheaper  than  hot  water  to  put  in,  but,  even 
in  large  houses,  hot  water  in  small  pipes  is  preferred  by 
many  who  have  made  a  careful  test  of  the  two  methods. 

COMMERCIAL   LETTUCE   GROWING. 

AVith  good  management,  three  or  four  crops  of  let- 
tuce can  be  harvested,  and  the  houses  can  then  be  used 
for  the  growing  of  vegetable  plants,  cucumbers,  or  toma- 
toes. It  is  desirable  to  have  the  first  crop  come  on  by 
Thanksgiving,  or  before,  and  for  this  purpose  the  seed 
should  be  sown  in  an  old  cold  frame,  or  in  a  seed  bed 
outside,  especially  prepared  for  the  purpose,  about  the 
last  of  July  or  first  of  Angust.  The  bed  should  be 
marked  off  into  rows  six  inches  apart,  and  the  seeds 


COMMERCIAL  LETTUCE   GROWIKG.  187 

scattered  thinly  in  the  drills,  or  they  may  be  sown  broad- 
cast. They  should  be  covered  with  about  one-half  inch 
of  soil,  and  the  surface  of  the  bed  rolled,  or  pressed  down 
with  a  board.  After  giving  the  bed  a  thorough  water- 
ing, it  sbould  be  covered  with  lath  screens,  and  watered 
whenever  it  shows  signs  of  becoming  dry.  When  the 
plants  have  formed  their  first  true  leaves  they  should  be 
transplanted  to  about  two  by  six  inches,  or,  if  in  drills. 


FIG.  70.     POT  PLANT  HI 
KENT  BED.       TEN.N. 

thinned  to  two  inches  in  the  row.  These  plants  will  be 
ready  to  transplant  to  the  beds  about  the  15th  to  the 
30th  of  September,  and  all  designed  for  the  Thanksgiv- 
ing trade  should  be  in  the  beds  by  the  first  week  in 
October.  If  the  Christmas  market  is  preferred  to 
Thanksgiving,  the  seeds  need  not  be  sown  until  the  mid- 
dle of  August,  or  a  portion  of  the  crop  can  be  put  in 
early  and  the  balance  held  for  a  succession. 

About  the  first  of  October,  a  second  sowing  should 
be  made,  and  another  for  the  third  crop  about  the  first 


188  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

of  December,  in  beds  or  flats  in  the  forcing  bonse.  That 
there  may  be  no  delay,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  make  a  small 
sowing  every  week  or  two.  When  one  inch  high  the  plants 
should  be  pricked  out  into  beds  or  flats,  three  or  four 
inches  apart  each  way,  and  as  soon  as  they  crowd  should 
be  placed  in  the  beds  at  a  distance  of  six  inclies  for  the 
Grand  Kapids  and  seven  and  a  half  or  eight  inches  for 
the  large  Tennis  Ball  sorts. 

Another  method,  which  is  more  economical  of  room, 
is  to  prick  out  the  plants  in  flats  or  beds  one  and  one- 
half  or  two  inches  each  way,  and  when  they  begin  to 
crowd  transplant  to  the  permanent  beds,  at  distances 
varying  from  three  to  four  inches,  according  to  the 
variety.  They  are  grown  in  this  way  until  the  leaves 
touch,  when  the  extra  plants  are  taken  out,  leaving  the 
permanent  plants  from  six' to  eight  inches  apart. 

POT   CULTQRE    OF   LETTUCE. 

A  method  of  growing  lettuce  in  which  the  plants  are 
placed  in  flower  pots  has  been  tested  by  Prof.  S.  A. 
Beach  of  the  Geneva,  N.  Y.,  Experiment  Station,  and 
Prof.  R.  L.  Watts  of  the  Tennessee  Station.  The  seed- 
ling plants  are  pricked  out  in  two  and  one-half  or  three- 
inch  pots,  and  are  grown  there  until  the  plants  crowd, 
when  the  pots  are  placed  close  together  (Fig.  70).  They 
are  then  transferred  to  the  permanent  beds,  where  they 
are  plunged  at  the  usual  distance,  so  that  the  tops  of  the 
pots  will  be  covered  one-half  inch.  They  will  require 
the  same  care  as  when  jflanted  in  the  bed  and  when 
marketed  the  plants  may  be  slij)ped  out  of  the  pots,  or 
not,  according  to  circumstances. 

It  is  claimed  for  this  method  that  there  is  no  check 
from  transplanting,  that  the  beds  will  only  be  occupied 
for  four  weeks,  while  if  the  plants  are  placed  at  once  in 
the  permanent  beds  it  will  be  at  least  eight  weeks  before 
the  crop  can  be  taken  off,  and  that  there  will  be  less 


PREPARATION   AND  CARE  OF  THE   BEDS.  189 

loss  in  marketing,  as,  whether  in  the  pots  or  not,  the  balls 
of  earth  (Fig.  71)  will  prevent  the  wilting  of  the  leaves, 
and  with  proper  care  the  heads  can  be  kept  over  a  week. 
Our  experience  in  lettuce  growing  in  pots  does  not 
warrant  our  recommending  it  for  general  use,  although 
the  above  claims  have  for  the  most  part  been  substanti- 
ated. We  fiud,  however,  that  the  check  from  trans- 
planting is  more  than  counterbalanced  by  the  reduced 
size  of  the  plants  grown  in  pots,  while  by  the  use  of  the 


FIG.  71.     POT  PLANT  REABY  FOR  MARKET.     TETTN".  EXP.  ST/  TION. 

system  of  transplanting  recommended  above  there  is  lit- 
tle if  any  saving  in  room,  while  the  labor  of  transplant- 
ing is  less  than  will  be  required  in  handling  the  pots  and 
in  plunging.  There  will  undoubtedly  be  less  loss  when 
the  plants  are  marketed  with  balls  of  earth  attached, 
and  this  may  make  it  a  desirable  method  of  growing  let- 
tuce for  supplying  small  dealers. 

PREPARATION   AND    CARE   OF    THE   BEDS. 

When  shallow  beds  are  used,  the  soil  will  all  need 
to  be  replaced  each  ytar,  but  in  solid  beds  it  will  suffice 


190 


GEEENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


FIG.    72.       INTElUOll    OF    LF.AXTO  I-KTTt'CE   HOUSE,  HlTIlKGEli  13K0S., 
iiEl..MO>T,  MASS. 


.    PREPAEATION   AND   CARE   OF   BEDS.  191 

if  three  or  four  inches  of  the  sni-face  soil  are  removed,  and 
the  benches  iilled  up  with  fresh  manure,  which  should 
be  thoroughly  worked  into  the  soil.  The  best  compost 
for  lettuce  growing  is  made  by  mixing  one  part  of  fresh 
horse  manure  with  two  parts  of  rich,  sandy  loam.  If 
this  can  be  prepared  in  June,  and  worked  over  in  Au- 
gust, it  will  be  in  good  condition  to  use  by  the  time  it  is 
Avanted  in  September.  The  raised  beds  will  need  about 
five  or  six  inches  of  soil,  and  after  each  crop  has  been 
taken  off,  it  will  be  well  to  add  about  an  inch  of  thor- 
oughly decomposed  horse  manure.  The  soil  in  the 
solid  beds  should  be  ten  inches  deep,  and.  should  also  be 
top-dressed  as  above. 

After  setting  the  plants,  the  beds  should  be  thor- 
oughly wet  down,  but  while  the  plants  are  small  care 
should  be  taken  not  to  saturate  the  beds,  particularly 
during  dull  weather  in  the  winter.  On  sunny  days  the 
plants  may  be  syringed  in  the  morning,  but  if  they  are 
syringed  in  dull  weather,  or  at  the  edge  of  evening,  it  is 
likely  to  invite  the  development  of  mildew  and  rot.  As 
soon  as  growth  starts,  the  bed  should  be  worked  over 
with  a  hand  weeder,  and  this  should  be  repeated  once  in 
two  weeks,  until  the  plants  cover  the  bed     (Fig.   73). 

The  temperature  of  lettuce  houses  should  be  kept 
below  50  degrees  at  night  and  in  dull  weather,  while  45 
degrees  is  high  enough  for  the  cabbage  sorts  at  night. 
The  houses  should  be  kept  well  ventilated,  using  the 
sash  that  opens  opposite  to  the  direction  of  the  prevailing 
wind,  whenever  this  is  possible.  Keep  coolest  just  after 
planting  and  when  they  begin  to  form  heads. 

The  most  troublesome  insect  pest  in  lettuce  grow- 
ing is  the  green  fly  or  aphis,  but  this  can  be  kept  in 
check,  if  taken  in  time,  by  the  use  of  tobacco  stems.  It  is 
well  to  cut  them  up  by  passing  them  through  a  hay- 
cutter  or  coarse  sieve,  and  then  scatter  the  pieces  over 
the  beds.      The  stems  themselves  can  be  used  in  the 


102  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

same  way  and  will  tend  to  keep  the  fly  in  checlc.  As 
soon  as  the  presence  of  green  fly  can  be  detected,  the 
house  should  be  fllled  witli  tobacco  smoke.  This  should 
be  repeated  at  the  end  of  two  or  three  days,  and,  if 
in-operly  done,  the  aphides  Avill  be  destroyed. 

As  the  insects  develop,  the  tobacco  smoke  does  not 
seem  powerful  enough  to  destroy  them,  and  if  for  any 
reason  fumigation  has  been  neglected  too  long  to  be 
effective,  resort  must  be  had  to  some  other  insecticide. 
A  strong  decoction  of  tobacco  stems  and  tobacco  exti-act 
will  destroy  them,  while  pyrethrum  or  buhach  seems 
quite  effectual  as  a  remedy  against  adult  aphides,  and 
may  be  put  on  as  a  dry  powder  with  a  bellows,  or  in 
water  with  a  syringe,  using  at  the  rate  of  a  tablespoon- 
ful  to  a  gallon.  When  the  houses  are  large,  a  small 
spraying  pump  will  be  convenient  for  applying  these 
and  similar  insecticides. 

When  given  proper  conditions,  the  beds  planted  the 
first  of  October  can  be  cut  for  Thanksgiving  purposes, 
and  can  be  cleaned  out  ready  to  be  reset  by  the  first  of 
December.  The  n»xt  crop  will  develop  by  the  first  of 
February,  and  the  third  crop  will  be  off  by  the  first  of 
April.  Under  especially  favorable  conditions,  two  or 
three  weeks  can  be  gained  upon  this,  which  will  allow  a 
fourth  crop  to  be  taken  off  by  the  middle  of  April. 

About  two  months  should  be  allowed  for  growing 
the  plants  after  sowing  the  seed,  and  seven  or  eight 
weeks  more  for  the  growth  of  the  heads  after  planting 
out.  This  will  he  none  too  much  during  the  cloudy  and 
short  days  of  November  and  December,  but  as  the  sun 
gets  higher  in  February  and  March,  six  weeks  will  gen- 
erally suffice. 

In  marketing  lettuce,  the  heads  are  placed  verti- 
cally in  baskets  or  boxes  (Fig.  73)  when  supplied  to  the 
local  trade,  or  in  barrels  for  distant  shipment.  It  is 
best  to  pack  the  cabbage  sorts  with  the  stems  up,  while 


PREPARATIOif  AND   CAEE  OP  BEDS. 


193 


194  GREEXHOUSE    MANAGEMENT. 

the  Grand  Rtipids  and  similar  sorts  are  laid  on  tlieir 
sides  with  the  butts  ovcr]a})ping.  Ventilate  in  warm 
weather,  and  line  the  barrels  with  newspapers  in  winter. 
Cover  the  top  of  the  barrel  with  burlap. 

As  indicated  on  a  [)revious  page,  the  Grand  Eapids 
is  one  of  the  best  varieties  for  fci-cing  purposes,  while 
Boston  Market,  Hot  House  and  Belmont  are  the  best  of 
the  cabbage  varieties. 

ELECTRO    CULTURE   OF   LETTUCE. 

Some  eight  or  ten  years  ago  Mr.  W.  W.  Kawson  of 
Arlington,  Mass.,  noticed  that  lettuce  seemed  to  be  ben- 
efited by  the  light  from  the  electric  street  lamps,  and 
to  test  its  efficacy  he  placed  a  2000  candle  power  arc 
lamp  over  one  house,  and  ten  30  candle  power  lamps 
inside  another  house,  with  the  effect  of  hastening  the 
maturity  of  the  crop  fully  five  days,  which  would  make 
a  saving  of  fifteen  days  for  three  crops.  Mr.  Rawson  is 
so  convinced  of  the  value  of  the  electric  light  that  he 
now  has  three  2000  candle  power  lights  over  one  of  his 
houses,  and  finds  himself  repaid  three-fold  by  the  effect 
on  the  crop. 

These  results  induced  Prof.  Bailey  to  make  various 
tests  at  the  Cornell  Experiment  Station  of  the  efficacy 
of  the  electric  light  upon  the  growth  of  different  plants. 
After  several  years'  trial,  he  finds  decidedly  beneficial 
effects  from  the  electric  light  upon  large  lettuce  plants, 
and  that  the  maturity  of  the  crop  may  be  hastened  at 
least  one  week.  The  lights  we're  not  run  more  than  five 
hours  a  night.  The  results  obtained  by  Prof.  Bailey 
agree  quite  closely  with  the  conclusions  of  various  French 
investigators.  It  was  found  that  naked  lights  inside  the 
house  injured  most  plants,  but  when  opal  globes  were 
used  the  effect  was  quite  beneficial  in  the  case  of  let- 
tuce. When  the  light  enclosed  in  an  opal  globe  was 
hung  outside,  about  six-  feet  above  the  glass,  the  best 


LETTUCE    IN"   HOTBEDS.  195 

results  were  obtained.  Even  when  forty  feet  away,  the 
plants  were  noticeably  benefited,  except  those  newly 
transplanted,  which  were  injured.  Eadishes,  beets  and 
spinach  were  also  benefited  when  the  lights  were  placed, 
outside  the  houses,  although  the  naked  light  inside  the 
house  was  detrimental  to  their  growth. 

It  has  not  been  determined  whether  ihe  effect  of  the 
light  is  in  increasing  the  hours  of  growth,  or  in  hasten- 
ing the  rapidity  at  which  they  grow  during  the  custom- 
ary period.  The  effect  upon  tomatoes  and  cucumbers  is, 
if  anything,  injurious,  and  Mr.  E.  A.  Lorentz  of  Orange 
County,  New  York,  reports  tliat  with  a  street  light  335 
feet  from  the  house,  and  running  eyery  night,  all  night, 
radishes  were  induced  to  run  to  seed,  and  the  same  effect 
would  have  been  produced  upon  the  spinach  had  it  been 
given  time.  Upon  lettuce,  however,  the  effect  was  ben- 
eficial, and  the  crop  was  marketed,  two  weeks  earlier 
than  that  grown  in  another  house,  not  exposed  to 
the  light. 

LETTUCE   IN"   HOTBEDS. 

When  one  has  a  forcing  house,  or  can  afford  to  build 
one,  it  does  not  pay  to  grow  lettuce  in  hotbeds  in  the 
Northern  States  earlier  than  the  fifteenth  of  February 
or  the  first  of  March.  If  one  has  no  forcing  house,  or 
other  place  for  starting  the  plants,  a  small  hotbed  can 
be  made  for  growing  them  as  early  as  the  middle  of  Jan- 
uary, and.  they  will  be  large  enough  to  transplant  by  the 
middle  of  February.  If  they  are  put  in  tliickly  at  first, 
and  again  thinned  out,  as  recommended  for  growing 
them  in  forcing  houses,  a  large  number  of  plants  can  be 
started  in  a  small  bed,  and  besides  saving  labor  in  caring 
for  the  large  beds,  it  will  admit  of  giving  the  plants  a 
fresh  bed  Avhen  finally  transplanted. 

Hotbeds  can  be  used  to  good  advantage  in  connec- 
tion with  a  greenhouse,  as  seeds  planted  about  the  first 
of  February  will  form  plants  large  enough  to  place  in  the 


196  GREENHOUSE    MANAGEMENT. 

hotbeds  by  the  fifteenth  to  the  twenty-fifth  of  February, 
and  will  be  ready  for  market  as  soon  as  the  third  crop 
has  been  cut  from  the  liousc.  By  sowing  seed  at  inter- 
vals of  three  or  four  weeks,  a  succession  can  be  obtained 
from  hotbeds  and  cold  frames  until  field-grown  crops 
mature.  When  there  is  a  demand  for  lettuce  during 
November,  it  can  be  grown  in  cold  frames  at  a  low  cost, 
and  if  they  are  deep  and  are  well  covered  on  cold  nights, 
it  can  be  carried  until  Thanksgiving. 

For  hotbed  and  cold  frame  uses,  the  forcing  house 
sorts  answer  very  well,  and  such  varieties  as  Chicago 
Market,  Denver  Market,  and  Black  Seeded  Simpson, 
will  also  be  found  desirable. 

CONDITIONS   FOR   SUCCESS. 

The  principal  reason  why  the  lettuce  specialists  have 
such  remarJvable  success  is  that  every  detail  of  handling 
the  crop  is  projierly  attended  to. 

As  of  prime  importance  we  consider  (1),  the  char- 
acter of  the  soil.  This  should  be  of  a  sandy  nature,  with 
less  than  five  per  cent  of  clay.  If  the  clay  is  present  in 
much  larger  quantities  the  surface  of  the  soil,  on  becom- 
ing dry,  will  bake  and  form  clods,  and  as  it  will  remain 
wet  and  cold  after  watering,  it  is  likely  to  induce  the 
appearance  of  the  rot.  A  good  lettuce  soil,  properly 
supplied  with  drainage,  will  allow  the  surplus  water  to 
pass  through  it,  and  the  roots  will  penetrate  to  a  much 
greater  dei)th  than  in  a  cold,  heavier  soil. 

(2.)  They  not  only  have  suitable  varieties,  but  the 
best  growers  take  pains  to  have  selected  plants  from 
selected  seeds  of  selected  strains  of  those  varieties.  Hav- 
ing found  a  variety  adapted  to  the  wants  of  a  particular 
market,  each  grower  should  raise  his  own  seed,  selecting 
it  from  plants  that  come  nearest  his  ideal,  carefully  pul- 
ling up  all  others  before  they  have  blossoms.  Care 
should  be  taken  to  reject  all  of  the  small,  light  seeds,  as 


CONDITIONS   poll   SUCCESS.  197 

they  will  develop  mucli  weaker  plants  than  will  be 
obtained  from  large,  plump  seed.  When  transplanting, 
the  weak  plants  should  be  rejected,  and  in  this  way  an 
even  stand  of  plants  will  be  secured  that  will  be  ready 
for  cutting  at  the  same  time,  thus  both  securing  a  better 
crop  and  a  saving  in  time. 

(3.)  Careful  attention  to  regulating  the  tempera- 
ture at  night  and  to  ventilation  during  the  day.  The 
burning  of  the  edges  of  the  leaves,  which  is  so  trouble- 
some with  head  lettuce,  is  undoubtedly  due  to  some  neg- 
lect in  these  particulars.  Sixty  degrees  answers  well  as 
a  day  temperature,  but  even  at  this,  air  should  be  given, 
and  if  it  rises  higher  the  ventilators  should  be 
opened  wide. 

(4.)  Securing  a  steady  growth  of  the  plants  and 
guarding  against  a  check.  Aside  from  the  top-dressing 
that  is  desirable  after  each  crop  is  taken  off,  the  applica- 
tion of  a  little  ground  bone,  wood  ashes  and  nitrate  of 
soda  to  the  surface,  will  both  increase  the  size  of  the 
plants  and  hasten  their  maturity. 

(5.)  So  handling  the  houses  that  insects  and  fun- 
gous diseases  cannot  gain  a  foothold. 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

CUCUMBERS,,  TO.MATOES   AND    MELONS  AS   WINTER   CROPS. 

For  many  3'Gsrs,  tlie  forcing  of  tomatoes  and  cucum- 
bers for  winter  marketing  has  l)een  quite  profitable  ne:ir 
some  of  the  large  eastern  cities,  but  at  the  present  time 
there  are  fewer  inducements  to  engage  in  the  business 
than  formerly,  owing  in  part  to  the  low  price  at  which 
the  southern-grown  crops  can  be  placed  on  the  northern 
market,  and  the  competition  from  the  large  number  of 
jiersons  who  are  now  engaged  in  the  business. 

During  the  spring  and  early  summer,  after  tlie  time 
wlien  lettuce  can  no  longer  be  grown  with  success  in  the 
houses,  there  is  still  an  opportunity  of  growing  both  of 
these  crops  with  profit,  as  the  houses  can  be  used  for 
nothing  else  at  this  time,  and  there  will  be  but  a  small 
expenditure  for  fuel.  In  the  winter,  however,  the  expense 
of  keeping  up  the  necessary  high  temperature  in  the 
houses  will  be  very  large,  and  the  prices  sometimes  run 
very  low,  but  with  good  care  fairly  profitable  returns 
will  be  secured. 

When  these  crops  are  grown  in  beds,  a  crop  of  beans 
or  lettuce  can  be  taken  off  before  the  entire  space  will  be 
needed  by  the  vines.  If  either  cucumbers  or  tomatoes 
are  grown  iji  solid  benches,  to  follow  a  lettuce  crop,  the 
growth  of  the  plants  can  be  hastened,  and  fuel  can  le 
saved,  by  digging  trenches  under  where  the  rows  of 
plants  are  to  be  set,  one  foot  wide  and  rleep,  and  filling 
with  fresh  horse  manure.  This  will  gradually  decom- 
pose and  will  furnish  bottom  heat  to  accelerate  the 
198 


CUCUMBERS    UNDER   GLASS.  199 

growth  of  the  plants  and,  later  on,  supply  food  for  the 
development  of  the  crop  of  fruit. 

CUCUMBERS   UNDER   GLASS. 

Many  growers  have  found  the  cucumber  a  profitable 
crop,  particularly  to  follow  the  second  or  third  crop  of 
lettuce,  to  be  sold  during  the  early  summer.  While 
cucumbers  thrive  in  lean-to  or  span-roof  houses,  the 
three-quarter  span  forcing  house  seems  particularly 
adapted  to  their  growth.  The  house  should  be  arranged 
so  as  to  provide  for  thorough  ventilation,  but  as  cold  air 
is  injurious  to  the  tender  plants,  the  ventilators  should 
be  so  situated  as  to  admit  fresh  air  without  producing  a 
draft.  Eidge  ventilators,  hinged  at  the  lower  side,  seem 
best  of  all  for  this  purpose. 

The  heating  apparatus  should  be  arranged  to  fur- 
nish a  night  temperature  of  65  degrees,  and  the  pipes 
should  be,  at  least  in  part,  overhead.  Perhaps  tlie  best 
arrangement  will  be  to  have  the  flow  pipes  overhead, 
and  one  or  two  returns  on  each  side  brought  back  on 
the  plates,  with  the  remainder  under  the  benches,  where 
they  will  provide  the  necessary  bottom  heat,  when  raised 
benches  are  used,  or  in  tlie  walks  in  houses  with  solid 
beds.  This  arrangement  will  prevent  any  downward 
currents  of  cold  air  upon  the  plants.  The  tables  or  beds 
may  be  arranged  as  in  a  rose  house,  or  they  may  consist 
of  a  wide  bench  in  the  center  and  a  narrow  one  at  each 
side  (Fig.  74).  A  house  eighteen  feet  wide  will  be 
adapted  for  growing  cucumbers,  but  any  width  up  to 
thirty  feet  may  be  used,  and  tlie  wider  houses  will  gen- 
erally be  preferable. 

When  used  as  a  succession  crop,  the  cucumbers  are 
not  started  until  about  December  or  January,  but  with 
a  good  market  they  will  be  found  profitable  if  started 
in  the  fall,  and  fruited  during  the  winter.  The  seeds 
should  be  sown  either  in  four-inch  pots,  or  in  trans- 


200 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


PLANTING   AND   TRAINING.  201 

planting  boxes,  using  light,  sandy  compost.  Only  one 
or  two  plants  should  be  allowed  to  grow,  but  it  is  well 
to  use  one  or  two  extra  seeds.  When  the  seeds  are 
sown,  the  pots  or  boxes  should  not  be  filled  more  than 
one-half  full  of  soil,  but  as  the  plants  develop  they 
should  be  filled  up  with  rich  compost.  The  seeds  will 
germinate  best  at  70  or  80  degrees,  and  if  started  in  a 
lettuce  house,  they  should  be  placed  in  the  warmest 
portion,  upon  about  six  inches  of  fresh  horse  manure, 
over  which  three  inches  of  soil  should  be  placed,  and 
covered  with  hotbed  sash,  to  hold  tlie  heat.  Another 
method  is  to  sow  the  seeds  in  flats  filled  with  sand,  and 
transplant  to  jjots.  The  beds  should  be  ten  to  twelve 
inches  deep,  with  an  inch  or  so  of  drainage  at  the  bot- 
tom. Upon  the  clinkers,  or  similar  material  thiit  is  used 
for  this  purpose,  a  layer  of  rich  pasture  sods  should  be 
placed,  and  on  this  about  six  inches  of  rich  compost, 
prepared  about  the  same  as  for  roses,  except  that  more 
manure  is  desirable,  and  the  soil  used  should  be  of  a 
rather  more  sandy  nature.  While  in  the  i^ots,  the  plants 
should  not  be  checked  by  lack  of  water  or  of  plant  food, 
and  under  no  conditions  should  they  become  pot-bound; 
they  can  be  easiest  cared  for  if  plunged  in  a  brisk  bot- 
tom heat. 

PLANTING   AND   TRAINING. 

When  about  to  run,  they  should  be  planted  out, 
giving  each  plant  at  least  four  squpre  feet  of  space. 
In  houses  with  wide  beds,  it  will  be  well  to  have  the  rows 
it  least  three  feet  apart,  while  five  or  six  will  be  prefer- 
able, and  to  grow  the  plants  wuth  two  in  a  box  or  pot, 
setting  them  three  feet  apart  in  the  rows,  and  training 
the  plants  in  opposite  directions.  Between  the  rows  the 
trellises  are  placed.  These  consist  of  wires  one  foot 
apart  upon  either  side  of  an  A-shaped  framework, 
extending  nearly  to  the  glass.  The  vine  will  be  trained 
up  on  either  side  and  it  will  form  a  series  of  galleries, 


203  GREixHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

within  which  the  encumbers  can  be  gatbered  and  the 
vines  tended.  Still  another  way,  in  lean-to,  or  three- 
quarter  span  houses,  is  to  plant  them  in  rows  two  feet 
apart,  with  five  or  six  feet  between  the  rows,  training 
them  towards  the  south  upon  wire  trellises  inclined  at 
an  angle  of  about  45  or  50  degrees.  The  rows  should  be 
about  five  feet  from  the  south  side  of  the  beds.  For  use 
in  ordinary  even-span  houses,  with  a  wide  bed  in  the 
center,  and  narrow  ones  on  the  sides,  a  good  method  is  to 
plant  two  rows  in  each  of  the  side  beds  and  four  in  the 
center,  at  intervals  of  two  feet  each  way,  but  so  that  the 
plants  in  one  row  will  stand  halfway  between  those  in  the 
adjoining  row.  The  wires,  each  of  which  is  to  support 
one  of  the  vines,  are  placed  one  foot  apart  and  run  from 
the  walls  to  a  point  below  the  ridge,  at  a  distance  of  from 
ten  to  twelve  inches  below  the  glass.  Stakes  or  strings 
are  used  to  support  the  vines  until  they  have  reached  the 
wires  upon  which  they  are  to  run.  When  the  vines  in 
the  outer  row  have  reached  a  point  over  the  edge  of  the 
center  bed,  they  should  be  pinched  off,  as  should  those 
in  the  center  bed  when  they  reach  the  ridge.  This  will 
cause  side  shoots  to  be  sent  out  upon  which  the  fruits 
will  be  formed. 

When  grown  in  solid  beds,  the  necessary  bottom 
heat  can  be  provided  by  making  a  hotbed  under  each 
row.  When  the  rows  are  close  together,  it  will  be  nec- 
essary to  place  the  heating  material  under  the  entire 
bed,  but  if  three  feet  or  more  apart,  it  will  only  be  nec- 
essary to  make  a  bed  of  fresh  horse  manure,  about -one 
foot  wide  and  deep,  which  is  tramped  down  and  covered 
with  eight  inches  of  soil.  When  upon  raised  beds,  the 
required  bottom  heat  can  be  secured  from  steam  or  hot 
water  pipes,  as  can  also  be  done  in  solid  beds. 

To  supply  a  crop  during  the  early  winter,  the  seed 
should  be  sown  abont  the  first  of  August,  and  can  be 
transplanted  to  the  bed  in  about  one  month.     In  less  than 


POLLINATION.  203 

two  months  after  being  placed  in  the  beds  the  cucumbers 
should  be  ready  for  market.  If  to  follow  the  second 
crop  of  lettuce  that  will  be  taken  off  in  January,  the 
seed  should  be  sown  the  first  of  December,  and  after 
being  transplanted  into  four-  or  five-inch  pots,  will  be 
leady  to  be  placed  in  the  beds  as  soon  as  they  are  filled 
with  roots. 

For  a  few  days  after  the  plants  are  set  in  the  beds, 
the  temperature  at  night  should  not  be  above  60  degrees, 
but  as  soon  as  the  plants  are  established  it  should  be 
gradually  raised  to  65  degrees  at  night,  and  it  may  reach 
80  or  85  degrees  during  the  day  if  the  sun  is  shining, 
but  it  will  be  desirable  not  to  have  it  above  70  degrees 
in  cloudy  weather.  With  this  high  temperature,  there 
is  great  danger  of  red  spider,  and  the  walks  should  be 
wet  down  morning  and  evening,  and  the  plants  should 
be  occasionally  syringed  on  bright  mornings,  with  water 
from  which  the  chill  has  been  taken. 

Unless  the  soil  is  deep  and  rich,  liquid  manure  can 
be  used  to  advantage  once  a  week  after  the  roots  have 
penetrated  all  parts  of  it,  especially  if  the  plants  are 
close  together,  and  mulching  is  also  advisable. 

POLLINATION. 

In  order  to  secure  the  development  of  fruit  upon 
most  of  the  common  varieties  of  cucumbers,  artificial 
fertilization  of  the  flowers  must  be  resorted  to,  when 
they  are  grown  in  forcing  houses  during  the  winter, 
unless  a  hive  of  bees  is  placed  in  the  house  for  the  pur- 
pose of  carrying  the  pollen  from  the  staminate  flowers  to 
the  pistils.  It  can  be  done  by  taking  the  pollen  upon  a 
small  brush  and  dusting  it  over  the  pistils,  and  will  be 
necessary  unless  some  of  the  English  forcing  varieties 
are  grown.  They  will  develop  without  pollen,  and  it  is 
thought  by  some  growers  that  they  should  not  be  polli- 
nated, as  it  is  likely  to  cause  an  enlargement  at  the  ends 
of  the  fruit.     Of  course,  the  seeds  will  not  fill  out  unless 


204 


GEEENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


SIGN  HOUSE.  DUKE  OF  EDINBURGH.  TELEGRAPH. 

FIG.  75.     ENGLISH  FORCING  CUCUMBERS.      TYPICAL    FORMS  GROWN  AT 

t;OBNELL  EXPERIMENT  STATION. 


VAEIETIES.  205 

the  flowers  are  fertilized,  and  this  will  be  an  improTe- 
ment,  in  addition  to  what  is  gained  in  the  improved 
form  of  the  fruits,  and  in  labor. 

As  the  fruits  develop,  the  larger  ones  should  be  sup- 
ported by  slings  of  raffia,  to  relieve  the  vines  of  tbeir 
weight  and  prevent  their  being  torn  from  their  supports, 
but  if  the  vines  are  carefully  tied  to  the  trellis,  with 
raffia,  the  ordinary  varieties  can  be  grown  without  tying 
up  the  fruits.  Tbe  crop  should  be  ready  for  market  in 
from  sixty  to  eighty  days  from  the  date  of  sowing  the  seed. 

VARIETIES. 

For  most  markets  the  common  garden  varieties  are 
the  only  ones  that  are  profitable,  the  White  Spine  and  a 
strain  known  as  Arlington  White  Spine  being  most 
commonly  grown.  The  English  forcing  cucumbers  have 
a  flavor  distinctly  their  own,  and  retain  their  green  color 
much  longer  than  the  ordinary  sorts.  They  often  reach 
a  length  of  two  feet,  and  are  edible  after  they  attain 
their  full  development.  Of  the  forcing  sorts,  Sion 
House  (Fig.  75)  is  most  commonly  grown.  It  is  smooth, 
regular  in  shape,  and  something  over  a  foot  in  length  ; 
Telegraph  is  long,  smooth  and  slender,  with  a  length  of 
from  sixteen  to  twenty  inches ;  Marquis  of  Lome  is  still 
larger,  and  is  an  excellent  variety  for  one  of  its  size. 
Duke  of  Edinburgh  is  another  very  long  variety.  In 
growing  cucumbers  under  glass,  the  black  plant  louse 
and  the  spotted  mite  are  quite  troublesome^  but  they  can 
readily  be  kept  in  check  by  syringing  the  plants  with 
fir  tree  oil,  or  tobacco  water. 

The  plants  are  also  subject  to  the  attack  of  various 
fungous  diseases,  one  of  the  most  injurious  of  which  is 
the  powdery  mildew.  For  diseases  of  this  kind,  evapo- 
rated sulphur  will  be  found  an  excellent  remedy. 

THE    FORCING    OF   TOMATOES. 

The  tomato  flourishes  under  about  the  same  con- 
ditions as  the  cucumber,  and  may  be  grown  in  the  same 


206  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

house,  with  good  results.  If  it  is  desired,  two  crops  can 
be  grown,  one  ripening  in  December  and  the  other  in 
April.  For  the  first  crop,  the  seed  should  be  sown  in 
July,  and  the  seedlings  transplanted  into  shallow  boxes 
in  August ;  about  the  first  of  September  they  may  be 
placed  in  four-inch  pots,  or  again  in  flats,  and  by  the 
first  of  October  may  )-eceive  their  final  transplant- 
ing. This  can  be  into  ten-inch  pots,  into  beds  similar 
to  those  used  for  cucumbers,  or  into  deep  boxes.  If 
grown  in  pots  or  beds,  the  soil  should  be  prepared  in  the 
same  way  as  for  cucumbers ;  if  boxes  are  used,  they 
should  be  one  foot  deep  and  from  ten  to  eighteen  inches 
square,  according  to  the  number  of  plants  grown  in 
them.  The  large  size  with  four  plants  will,  perhaps,  give 
best  results.  Unless  a  large  crack  has  been  left  in  the 
bottom  of  the  box,  several  holes  should  be  made,  in 
order  to  provide  thorough  drainage.  For  commercial 
growing,  the  use  of  beds  is  preferable,  with  two  rows 
of  plants  on  side  benches  three  to  three  and  one-half 
feet  wide  ;  from  eighteen  to  twenty  inches  each  way  will 
be  right  for  wider  beds. 

If  a  succession  is  desired,  seeds  may  be  sown  at 
intervals  of  four  weeks,  and  for  the  second  main  crop 
the  sowing  should  be  made  about  the  first  of  December. 
When  the  plants  are  desired  to  follow  the  crop  of  let- 
tuce taken  ofE  in  February,  the  seeds  may  also  be  sown 
at  that  date.  The  same  care  will  be  required  as  for  the 
seeds  sown  in  August. 

The  best  temperature  for  the  tomato  for  the  first 
few  weeks  after  planting  is  about  55  degrees,  but  when 
established  it  should  be  raised  to  about  C5  degrees,  and 
should  not  be  allowed  to  fall  below  60  degrees  at 
night.  During  the  day  the  temperature  may  run  up  to 
75  or  80  degrees,  but  ventilation  should  be  given  when  it 
can  be  done  without  creating  a  draft  or  dropping  the 
temperature  below  65  or   70   degrees.     If  only  a  cool 


IHE  FORCING   OF  TOMATOES. 


^07 


208  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMEISTT. 

house  is  availal)lc  for  starting  the  plants,  a  hotbed 
should  be  made  for  them,  the  same  as  for  the  cucumber. 
As  recommended  for  the  cucumber,  it  is  well  to  fill 
the  pots  or  boxes  only  about  half  full  at  first,  thus  allow- 
ing of  the  application  of  a  liberal  amount  of  rich  com- 
post, when  needed 

TRAINING  AND  PRUNING. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  start  into  growth  after  being 
finally  transplanted,  some  arrangement  should  be  made 
for  supporting  them.  They  may  be  tied  to  stakes  (Fig. 
76)  Avith  raffia,  or,  which  is  perhaps  a  better  method,  to 
vertical  supports  of  linen  twine.  If  a  stout  wire  is  run 
along  tlie  rafters  over  each  row  of  plants,  the  twine  can 
be  fastened  to  it  as  a  support,  while  the  lower  end  can 
be  held  in  place  by  a  stake,  inserted  near  the  plants,  or  it 
can  be  tied  to  the  plant  near  the  ground.  Others  use 
trellises  similar  to  tliose  described  for  the  cucumber. 
If  early  fruits  are  desired,  the  vines  should  be  trained 
to  simple  shoots,  and  all  suckers  that  form  in  the  axils 
should  be  rubbed  out  as  soon  as  they  show  themselves. 
At  the  liight  of  six  feet,  the  growth  of  the  maiii  shoot 
should  be  stopped.  If  the  growth  is  so  rank  as  to  shade 
the  plants,  some  of  the  larger  leaves  should  be  pinched 
off,  but  if  they  have  plenty  of  light  and  air,  the  leaves 
should  all  be  allowed  to  develop,  unless  they  become 
diseased,  when  they  should  be  removed  and  burned. 

When  the  crop  is  not  particularly  needed  as  an  early 
one,  two  or  three  shoots  mnybe  trained  from  each  plant, 
if  desired.  In  either  case,  the  method  of  pruning  and 
training  is  the  same,  and  the  shoots  should  be  tied  at 
frequent  intervals,  to  hold  them  in  place.  If  the  plants 
have  been  set  about  twenty  inches  apart  each  way  (from 
eighteen  to  twenty-four  according  to.  the  variety),  the 
pruning  recommended  above  will  be  ample. 

For  the  winter  and  early  spring  crops,  artificial  fer- 
tilization of  the  blossoms  is  very  desirable.      At  the 


VARIETIES.  209 

time  the  pollen  is  shed,  the  house  should  be  kept  quite 
warm  and  the  atmosphere  dry.  By  gently  shaking  or 
tapj)ing  the  blossom  shoots,  the  pollen  will  be  scattered 
to  some  extent,  but  larger  and  more  regular  fruits  will 
be  obtained  if  the  flowers  are  artificially  cross-fertilized. 
Perhaps  the  easiest  way  of  doing  this  is  to  take  pollen, 
obtained  from  flowers  collected  the  previous  summer 
and  dried,  upon  a  small  paddle  and  touch  it  to  the 
stigmas  of  the  flowers.  Bees  may  also  be  used  for  fer- 
tilizing this  crop.  As  the  fruits  develop,  if  large  vari- 
eties are  grown,  it  will  pay  to  support  the  clusters  by 
means  of  slings  of  raffia.  From  the  plants  started  about 
the  first  oi  August,  fruit  should  be  obtained  in  Novem- 
ber, and  from  three  to  four  months  will  be  required  by 
tlie  spring  crop  after  the  seed  is  sown. 

VARIETIES. 

In  selecting  varieties  for  forcing,  the  very  early 
angular  sorts  should  not  be  chosen,  as,  when  forced, 
they  are  very  small  and  iiTegular ;  neither  should  the 
very  large,  rough  sorts  be  used,  as  they  will  be  more 
irregular  than  when  grown  in  the  open  air.  The  Beauty 
is  one  of  the  best  of  the  jiurple  sorts,  and  Ignotum  and 
Volunteer,  of  the  red  kinds,  answer  well  for  the  spring 
crop,  but  as  an  early  winter  variety,  the  Advance,  or 
Lorillard,  should  be  used.  Nicholson  is  also  well 
adapted  to  winter  forcing.  From  two  to  five  pounds  per 
plant,  according  to  the  season,  would  be  a  fair  crop,  and 
the  wholesale  price  will  vary  from  ten  cents  per  pound 
in  May,  to  forty  or  fifty  in  January,  and  at  this  rate  will 
be  quite  remunerative. 

GENERAL   RULES. 

To  obtain  the  best  results  in  forcing  tomatoes  dur- 
ing the  winter  months:  (1.)  The  house  must  be  built  so  as 
to  afford   the  plants  as  much   sunlight  as  possible ;  it 
should  have  a  space  of  at  least  six  feet  above  the  tables, 
14 


210 


GREENHOUSE   MAKAGEMENT. 


and  the  heating  apparatus  should  be  ample  to  keep  the 
house  at  CO  degrees  during  the  coldest  weather.  (3.)  The 
plants  sliould  be  of  forcing  varieties  and  should  never  be 
subjected  to  a  check  for  want  of  food,  water,  air,  or 
warmth,  or  from  an  excess  of  any  of  these.  (3.)  In 
watering,  use  enough  water  to  moisten  the  entire  soil, 
and  then  withhold  until  the  plant  shows  signs  of  need- 
ing more.  When  the  plants  are  small,  and  at  other 
times  when  the  fruit  is  not  setting,  syringe  the  plants  on 


GKOWI^G  MLbHucnm- 


bright  days  and  keep  the  walks  wet  down.  Whenever 
fruit  is  setting,  the  house  should  be  kept  warm  and  dry. 
The  atmosphere  can  be  deprived  of  much  of  its  moisture 
by  ventilating  during  the  warm  part  of  the  day. 

The  red  spider  is  one  of  the  worst  enemies  in  the 
tomato  forcing-house,  but  the  above  treatment  will  keep 
it  in  check.  If  the  soil  is  kept  too  wet,  the  develop- 
ment of  nematodes  or  eel  worms  upon  the  roots  is 
invited  and  they  frequently  rot  oJS.  The  stems  and 
foliage  are  also  attacked  by  various  bacterial  and  fun- 


-■^SHROOM   CULTURE.  211 

gous  diseases.  TfiSy  are  induced  by  overwatering,  or 
ventilating,  and  by  syringing  tbe  plants  njion  dull  days 
and  late  in  the  day,  when  the  moisture  remains  a  long 
time  upon  the  foliage.  When  fungi  of  any  kind  appear, 
the  diseased  portion  should  be  burned  and  the  plants 
syringed  with  ammoniated  copper  carbonate,  or  copper 
sulphate  solution. 

MELONS. 

During  the  early  summer,  vegetable  houses  can 
often  be  used  for  forcing  melons,  with  profit.  They 
should  be  started  in  March,  and  grown  in  four-inch  pots 
until  the  lettuce  or  other  crop  is  taken  off  in  April. 
The  care  is  the  same  as  for  the  cucumber.  Hackensack 
is  one  of  the  best  sorts  for  the  purpose. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

MUSHROOM  CULTURE. 

It  often  happens  that  in  greenhouses  there  is  no 
occasion  for  using  the  space  beneath  the  benches  for 
ordinary  greenhouse  crops,  and  many  florists  have  found 
in  the  mushroom  a  crop  that  can  be  grown  at  a  slight 
extra  expense  of  labor  and  material,  and  if  a  good  yield 
is  obtained  the  proceeds  may  more  than  equal  those  from 
the  plants  grown  on  the  bench  itself.  If  any  of  the 
tables  are  not  to  be  used  until  spring,  a  mushroom  bed 
can  also  be  made  upon  them,  and  the  crop  can  be  har- 
vested before  the  bench  is  needed. 

The  best  results  are  obtained  at  temperatures  of  from 
55  to  60  degrees,  and  this  is  secured  in  the  average  green- 
house. When  houses  are  run  at  a  slightly  lower  tem- 
perature, a  larger  amount  of  heating  material  can  be 


212 


GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


used,  and  if  the  sides  of  tlie  table  are  closed  in,  the  tem- 
perature can  be  kept  at  the  desired  point.  The  great 
trouble  in  growing  mushrooms  under  the  benches  is  in 


the  soaking  of  the  bed  by  the  drip,  but  when  the  plants 
on  the  benches  are  planted  out,  there  will  be  less  drip 
than  when  grown  in  pots,  and  with  care  in  watering, 
110  harm  need  be  4opQ.    U  drip  cannot  be  prevented  in 


PKEPAKATION   OF   THE   MATERIAL.  213 

any  other  manner,  it  can  be  kept  from  the  mushroom 
bed  by  placing  spare  shutters  or  glass  sash  over  the  bed, 
at  an  angle  so  that  the  water  will  b?  carried  away.  Fig. 
77  illustrates  the  use  of  spare  benches  in  the  greenhouse, 
for  mushroom  growing,  while  Fig.  78  shows  the  results 
that  may  be  obtained  under  the  benches. 

In  growing  the  mushroom,  quite  a  quantity  of 
manure  is  required,  and  it  is  considerable  labor  to  pre- 
pare it  and  to  make  the  bed,  but  as  the  manure,  after 
being  used  to  grow  the  mushroom,  is  worth  as  much  as 
before  for  many  greenhouse  crops,  the  labor  of  prepara- 
tion only  can  be  charged  to  the  mushrooms.  Mush- 
rooms are  usually  grown  in  cellars,  where  the  heat  and 
moisture  can  be  controlled,  but  they  can  even  be  grown 
successfully  in  open  sheds  during  the  fall,  and  in  Eng- 
land they  are  very  largely  grown  in  the  open  air.  When 
grown  in  hothouses,  the  thing  k)  avoid  is  an  excess  of 
heat,  which  would  destroy  the  bed,  but  in  the  ordinary 
rose  houses,  or  those  of  a  still  lower  temperature,  they 
can  be  grown  without  difficulty. 

PREPARATION"   OF   THE    MATERIAL. 

For  the  growing  of  mushrooms,  fresh  horse  manure 
is  necessary,  and  if  this  is  carefully  prepared,  if  the 
spawn  is  good  and  if  the  proper  conditions  are  given, 
mushrooms  are  quite  a  sure  crop.  For  this  purpose,  the 
horses  should  be  fed  on  hay  and  grain  and  not  on  roots, 
as  they  injure  the  manure  for  mushroom  beds.  It  has 
been  recommended  by  some,  that  all  straw  be  shaken 
out  and  only  the  clean  droppings  used,  but  while  it  is 
not  desirable  to  use  the  clean  straw  from  the  bedding,  if 
it  is  urine-soaked  it  may  be  used  to  advantage  to  the 
extent  of  at  least  one- half.  Manure  that  has  been  made 
for  several  weeks,  if  it  has  not  become  ''fire-fanged,"  can 
be  used,  and,  in  fact,  it  is  better  to  use  manure  that  has 
been  well  packed  down  in  a  pile  for  a  month,  even,  than 
to  take  manure  as  made  in  small  quantities,  placed  in  ^ 


214  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

pile  and  forked  over  every  day  until  a  sni-)ply  is  obtained 
for  the  bed,  as  is  recommended  by  some  authors.  When 
fresh  manure  is  used,  the  crop  conies  on  quickly,  and 
although  it  may  last  only  a  short  time,  it  will  be  fully 
as  large  as  one  from  old  manure,  which  will  lust  twice  as 
long,  and  occupy  the  space  for  that  much  longer  time. 

Having  obtained  a  sufficient  quantity  of  manure,  it 
should  be  prepared  for  use  in  the  bed.  This  can  best  be 
done  under  a  shed,  as  the  rain  will  then  be  kept  off,  and 
the  manure  will  be  less  subjected  to  the  drying  action  of 
the  sun  and  wind,  although  during  the  summer  and 
early  autumn  months,  the  manure  may  be  prepared  in 
the  open  air,  if  the  pile  is  kept  covered  with  straw  and 
mats,  or  shutters,  to  keep  off  the  rain.  If  a  sufficient 
amount  cannot  be  obtained  at  one  time,  care  should  be 
taken  that  what  is  first  obtained  docs  not  burn  or  fire- 
fang.  It  should  be  placed  in  a  pile,  and  after  being  lev- 
eled off  should  be  well  tramped.  If  it  shows  signs  of 
heating,  it  is  well  to  spread  it  out,  and  after  it  has 
become  cool,  replace  as  before.  As  soon  as  a  sufficient 
supply  has  been  secured,  it  should  be  worked  over  and 
broken  up,  thoroughly  mixing  it  together,  rejecting  all 
portions  that  are  "burnt,"  as  well  as  the  coarse,  dry 
straw  and  all  foreign  matters. 

It  is  then  placed  in  beds  about  three  feet  high,  and 
five  or  six  wide,  leveling  off  the  pile  and  packing  it  down 
with  the  fork.  If  the  manure  is  at  all  dry,  it  is  well  to 
moisten  each  layer,  using  tepid  water,  if  convenient, 
particularly  in  the  winter.  As  soon  as  fermentation 
begins  and  the  pile  has  warmed  through,  the  mass 
should  be  turned  over  and  made  into  a  rectangular  bed, 
as  before.  As  it  is  being  worked  over,  it  should  be  well 
shaken  out,  and  the  outside  portions  worked  into  the 
center.  If  any  of  the  manure  seems  dry,  it  may  again 
he  watered,  using  a  watering  pot  with  a  fine  rose,  and,  if 
the  pile  was  well  warmed  through,  it  will  be  well  to 


PEEPAEATION   OF  THE  MATEEIAL.  215 

tread  the  bed  lightly,  as  it  is  made  up,  thus  lessening 
the  liability  of  burning  in  the  center.  In  perhaps  three 
or  four  days,  the  mass  will  again  warm  up,  and  before  it 
has  had  time  to  burn,  it  should  be  again  turned  over; 
the  turning  should  be  repeated  generally  from  three  to 
five  times. 

The  working  over  is  for  the  purpose  of  securing  a 
regular,  even  heat  throughout  the  pile,  and  of  prevent- 
ing "fire-fanging."  As  the  mass  warms  up,  the  rapidity 
of  fermentation  can  be  cliecked  by  firmly  tramping  the 
pile,  as  it  is  worked  over.  The  turning  should  be  kept 
up  until  the  violent  heat  is  over,  and  the  strong  offen- 
sive odor  has  been  dissipated.  When  properly  purified 
and  sweetened,  the  bed  should  be  a  homogeneous  mass 
of  a  warm  brown  color,  and  with  a  *'sweet,"  agreeable 
and  slightly  pungent  odor.  If  properly  prepared,  the 
material  should  have  a  greasy  ajipearance,  but  should 
not  be  so  moist  as  to  allow  even  a  drop  of  water  to  be 
squeezed  out.  Most  growers  add  to  the  manure  about 
one-fourth  its  bulk  of  loam,  the  amount  varying  with 
the  freshness  of  the  manure,  more  being  used  when  it  is 
fresh  than  if  decomposed.  The  addition  of  the  loam  is 
thought  to  benefit  by  hindering  decomposition  and  thus 
extending  the  productiveness  of  the  bed  ;  it  also  serves 
to  retain  the  ammonia  and  in  this  way  may  be  of  value, 
although  its  use  is  not  regarded  as  necessary,  and  it  is 
entirely  dispensed  with  by  some  growers. 

The  loam  is  generally  obtained  from  land  that  has 
not  been  pastured  for  two  years  at  least,  as  it  otliorwise 
might  contain  worthless  fungi  that  would  prove  ti  ^able- 
some,  although  by  some  of  the  most  successful  growers 
this  precaution  is  considered  unnecessary.  The  manure 
may  be  mixed  with  the  loam,  at  the  time  it  is  first  piled 
up,  at  any  time  during  its  preparation,  or  when  ready  to 
be  placed  in  the  mushroom  bed,  but  an  excellent  plan  is 
to  use  it  to  cover  the  pile,  after  it  has  been  worked  over 


216  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

once  or  twice,  and  then  as  it  receives  its  next  working  it 
can  be  thoroughly  mixed  with  it.  By  incorporating  it 
with  the  manure  at  this  time,  it  will  serve  to  lessen  the 
danger  of  burning,  and  the  pile  need  not  be  turned  as 
frequently.  Ordinary  field  loam  will  answer,  but  Mr. 
Falconer  recommends  the  use  of  sod  loam,  if  the  mate- 
rial in  the  spent  bed  is  to  be  used  for  potting  plants, 
which  would  certainly  make  it  more  valuable  for  that 
purpose. 

MAKING   THE   BED. 

The  depth  of  the  bed  should  depend  ujion  the  fresh- 
ness of  the  material  and  the  location  of  the  bed,  so  far 
as  the  temperature  of  the  surrounding  air  is  concerned. 
With  fresh  manure  alone,  in  a  warm  place,  nine  inches 
will  answer,  but  if  loam  has  been  added  it  should  be 
from  ten  to  twelve  inches  deep.  Decomposed  manure 
would  need  to  be  made  about  three  inches  deeper  than 
that  in  a  fresh  state,  but  should  not  be  used  in  a  cool 
place,  without  the  addition  of  fresh  droppings.  In 
making  the  beds  in  a  greenhouse,  the  top  should  be 
level,  or  with  a  slight  slo()e  toward  the  walk.  Perhaps 
the  best  plan  is  to  have  the  bed  at  the  front  about  nine 
inches  deep,  and  at  the  rear  twelve  inches. 

Whether  made  under  the  benches  or  upon  them,  it 
is  well  to  have  a  board  of  the  proper  width  along  the 
front.  If  the  space  allows,  it  is  an  excellent  plan  to 
place  a  hotbed  frame  under  or  upon  the  bed,  or  at  least 
to  place  boards  about  six  feet  apart,  to  form  the  edges 
of  the  mushroom  bed,  which  should  then  be  covered 
with  hotbed  sash  or  shutters.  The  manure  should  be 
shaken  evenly  over  the  bed,  packing  it  down  with  a  fork, 
thus  filling  it  up  in  thin,  even  layers  spread  over  the 
surface.  When  a  bed  is  filled,  a  gentle  treading  will 
benefit  it,  and  when  under  the  greenhouse  benches,  the 
desired  result  can  be  secured  by  beating  it  down  with  a 
brick,  or  wooden  pounder.     Unless  thorough  ventilation 


MtJSHROOM  SPAWIT.  21? 

can  be  given,  the  surface  of  the  bed  should  be  covered 
with  three  or  four  inches  of  dry  straw,  as  the  moisture 
arising  from  the  bed  would  be  condensed  upon  the  sur- 
face, and  rendgr  it  cold  and  wet. 

A  thermometer  should  now  be  inserted,  that  the 
temperature  of  the  interior  of  the  bed  may  be  noted. 
If  properly  prepared,  it  will  rise  at  first  to  115  or  125 
degrees,  but  it  should  not  go  much  above  this.  Should 
the  temperature  reach  130  degrees,  it  is  well  to  cool 
down  the  surface  in  some  way,  either  by  forking  it  over 
to  the  depth  of  three  or  four  inches,  or  by  ventilating, 
by  making  holes  with  a -dibble.  As  soon  as  the  excess 
of  the  heat  has  passed  off,  the  bed  should  be  again  com- 
pacted, and  the  holes  carefully  filled.  Should  it  happen 
that,  owing  to  the  use  of  partially  rotten  manure,  the 
temperature  does  not  get  above  80  degrees,  it  will  be  well 
to  strengthen  the  bed  by  adding  a  couple  of  inches  of 
fresh  droppings,  which  should  be  well  worked  in.  A 
temperature  of  75  or  even  70  degrees,  if  proper  material 
was  used  in  the  bed,  will,  however,  suffice,  and  the  bed 
will  last  longer  than  if  a  high  temperature  was  secured. 
When  the  bed  has  cooled  down  to  85  degrees,  the  spawn 
may  be  inserted. 

MUSHROOM  SPAWN-. 

The  term  spawn  is  given  to  the  wliite,  threadlike 
network  that  makes  uj)  the  real  body  of  the  fungus, 
while  the  mushroom,  or  edible  portion,  is  mei'ely  the 
fruit  stalk.  The  spawn,  or  mycelium,  spreads  through 
the  soil  and  after  gathering  a  suflBcient  amount  of  food, 
the  fruit  stalk  is  sent  up,  on  which  the  spores  or  seeds 
of  the  fungus  are  developed.  While  the  sjjores,  under 
proper  conditions,  will  develop  the  fungus,  this  method 
is  not  resorted  to  in  practice,  as  the  spawn  used  in  start- 
ing new  beds  is  secured  by  a  process  of  division  similar 
to  the  growing  of  flowering  plants  from  cuttings.     If 


;218 


GREEXnOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


portions  of  old  mushroom  beds,  containing  the  spawn  in 
the  form  of  white  threads,  are  phiced  in  a  dry  phice,  they 
will  preserve  their  vitality  for  several  years,  but  sliould 
not  be  relied  upon  for  spawning  mushroom  beds. 

As  generally  used,  however,  mushroom  spawn  is  in 
the  form  of  bricks,  or  flakes,  the  former  being  known  as 
English  and  the  latter  as  French  spawn.  It  is  all  im- 
ported, and  the  amount  used  is  steadily  increasing,  the 
annual  consumption  being  several  hundred  thousand 
pounds.  The  bricks  (Fig.  79)  are  about  eight  inches 
long,  five  inches  wide  and  one  and  one-fourth  inches 


FIG.  79.      BRICK   SPAWN. 

thick.  They  are  made  by  mixing  two  parts  of  fresh 
horse  manure,  one  part  cow  manure  and  one  part  loam, 
and  adding  a  little  chojoped  straw.  This  is  made  of 
about  the  consistency  of  mortar,  and  after  being  worked 
over  two  or  three  times,  at  intervals  of  two  days,  it  can 
be  made  into  bricks  with  molds,  or  by  cutting  it  wiih  a 
spade ;  when  first  made,  the  nsual  size  of  a  brick  is  nine 
by  six  by  two  inches.  They  should  be  set  on  edge  and 
placed  in  the  snn  and  air  for  a  few  days,  and  when  about 
half  dry  a  small  piece  of  spawn  should  be  placed  in  the 
center  of  each  brick,  carefully  filling  up  the  holes  with 


MUSHROOM  SPAWN".  219 

fresh  brick  material.  A  mild  hotbed  is  then  made,  upon 
wliich  the  bricks  are  stacked  and  covered  with  litter  to 
hold  the  heat.  If  kept  at  about  GO  degrees,  the  myce- 
lium will  soon  run  through  the  bricks ;  as  soon  as  the 
white  threads  have  run  through  the  mass,  and  before 
the  tubercles  have  formed,  the  bricks  should  be  taken 
out  and  dried. 

The  French  spawn  (Fig.  80)  is  prepared  by  treat- 
ing fresh  horse  manure  in  about  the  same  way  as  if  for 
a  mushroom  bed,  except  that  chopped  litter  is  used 
instead  of  loam.  This  may  be  spread  in  a  layer  about 
three  inches  deep,  and  after  scattering  over  it  some  good 


FIG.  80.     FRENCH  SPAWN. 


spawn,  it  should  be  pounded  down;  two  or  three  more 
layers  of  manure  may  then  be  added,  with  spawn  upon 
each,  and  the  bed  then  covered  with  loam  to  the  depth 
of  three  or  four  inches.  The  bed  should  be  kept  rather 
dry,  and  at  the  end  of  about  six  or  eight  weeks  tlie 
spawn  will  have  run  through  the  bed.  This  stage  should 
be  carefully  looked  for,  and  when  reached  the  bed  should 
be  broken  up  and  carefully  dried.  The  French  spawn 
will  go  about  twice  as  fiir  as  the  English  in  spav/uing 
the  bed,  but  the  mushrooms,  as  a  rule,  are  not  more  than 
two-thirds  as  large,  and  the  number  is  also  considerably 
smaller. 


220  GREENHOUSE  MA.NAGEMEXT. 


SPAWNING  THE   BED. 


The  spawn  should  not  be  inserted  until  the  temper- 
ature of  the  bed  at  two  inches  below  the  surface  has  fal- 
len to  90  degrees.  When  bricks  are  used,  they  should 
be  cut  into  twelve  or  fifteen  pieces,  and  inserted  in  the 
bed  at  intervals  of  ten  to  twelve  inches,  so  that  they  will 
be  covered  fully  an  inch.  The  flake  spawn  should  be 
inserted  in  about  the  same  way,  using  about  one-half 
as  much. 

If  grown  in  a  cool  place,  or  if  there  is  danger  from 
moisture,  it  is  well  to  cover  the  bed,  after  spawning,  with 
two  or  three  inches  of  litter,  if  it  is  not  to  be  molded  at 
once.  By  molding  is  meant,  covering  the  bed  with  loam 
to  the  depth  of  about  two  inches.  This  can  be  done 
immediately  after  spawning,  but  unless  the  conditions 
are  particularly  favorable,  it  will  be  safer  to  delay  it 
until  from  the  fifth  to  the  tenth  day,  yet  it  should  not 
be  put  off  after  the  twelfth  day  from  spawning.  The 
loam  used  for  this  purpose  should  be  about  the  same  as 
for  preparing  the  bed.  Sod  fi-om  an  old  pasture,  gai'den 
soil  or  sandy  loam,  will  answer,  but  any  soil  containing 
much  clay  or  a  considerable  quantity  of  sand  should  be 
rejected.  All  clods  and  coarse  material  of  all  kinds 
should  be  thrown  out,  and  it  should  then  be  placed  over 
all  exposed  parts  of  the  bed,  to  the  depth  of  from  one 
and  one-half  to  two  inches,  and  firmly  packed  down, 
particularly  on  the  edges  of  the  beds. 

CARE   OF  THE   BED. 

The  best  results  are  obtained  Avhen  the  beds  are  in 
an  atmosphere  of  about  58  degrees ;  this  can  vary  four 
or  five  degrees  each  way,  but  if  raised  above  65  degrees 
a  failure  may  be  expected.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
temperature  of  the  air  may  fall  several  degrees  below  the 
freezing  point,  but  if  the  bed  is  covered  with  several 
inches  of  litter,  and  the  heat  is  kept  in  by  means  of  mats 


WATERING   THE   BEDS.  221 

and  blankets,  no  harm  will  be  done.  For  all  tempera- 
tures under  45  degrees,  covering  sliould  not  be  neglected. 
In  warm  rooms,  and  after  tlie  air  becomes  warm  in  sum- 
mer, the  mushrooms  will  be  light  and  with  long  spin- 
dling stems,  while  the  bed  will  soon  be  exhausted.  When 
kept  at  55  to  58  degrees,  the  mushrooms  will  appear  in 
seven  or  eight  weeks,  according  to  the  warmth 
of  the  bed,  after  spawning,  while  at  60  degrees,  it 
may  not  be  much  over  six  weeks,  but  the  crop  will 
not  last. 

WATERING   THE   BEDS. 

When  properly  prepared,  especially  if  the  bed  is  in 
a  cellar,  or  in  a  shaded  house,  watering  should  not  be 
necessary,  but  when  artificial  heat  is  used  the  beds 
quickly  dry  out,  and  should  be  watered,  if  the  mush- 
rooms have  begun  to  form.  The  water  should  be  at  90 
to  100  degrees,  and  should  be  used  in  sufficient  quantity 
to  wet  down  the  mulch.  If  clean,"  soft  water  is  used,  it 
may  touch  the  small  mushrooms  without  injurirxg  them, 
and  may  be  used  in  sufficient  quantity  to  moisten  the 
covering  soil,  but  it  sliould  not  reach  the  manure.  As 
soon  as  the  mushrooms  are  up,  liquid  manure  or  fresh 
urine  may  be  used  with  good  effect.  If  the, 
air  is  not  dried  out  by  the  heating  pipes,  a  sufficient 
degree  of  moisture  can  be  maintained  by  sprinkling 
the  walks.  Water  should  never  be  used  at  the 
time  the  spawn  is  beginning  to  run,  as  it  may  ruin 
the  bed. 

GATHERING   THE   CROP. 

In  England,  where  mushrooms  are  so  commonly 
grown,  they  are  distinguished  accoi'ding  to  their  devel- 
opment, as  ''buttons,"  "cups"  and  "broilers."  The 
"buttons"  are  the  mushrooms  gathered  while  quite 
small,  and  before  the  "veil,"  or  the  membrane  which 
connects  the  cup  with  the  stem,  bursts  ;  they  are  always 


222         GKEENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

gathered  at  tliis  stage  when  used  for  soups,  and  if  grown 
from  French  spawn. 

The  English  mushrooms,  if  to  be  used  for  other 
purposes  than  in  soups,  may  be  gathered  just  after  the 
frill  breaks,  when  they  are  known  as  cups,  or  may  be 
left  until  the  cups  begin  to  open  out  flat,  when  their  use 
is  indicated  by  the  name  that  has  been  given  them, 
broilers.  Care  should  be  taken  to  gather  them  before 
the  gills  turn  brown,  as  they  will  lose  their  flavor  and 
become  tough  and  leathery.  While  broilers  weigh  con- 
siderably more  than  cups  or  buttons,  they  do  not  bring 
as  much  per  pound,  and  as  the  bed  will  be  exhausted 
much  sooner  when  they  are  allowed  to  develop  than  if 
picked  before  the  frill  breaks,  it  is  not  always  profitable 
to  grow  them  to  the  largest  size.  The  cup  is  the  size 
most  generally  marketed,  and  they  are  gathered  by  giv- 
ing them  a  sliarp  twist  and  pull,  and  placing  in  baskets 
with  the  stems  down.  Pulling  will  be  found  preferable  to 
cutting,  as  none  of  the  crop  will  then  be  wasted,  and  the 
mushrooms  will  keep  fresh  longer  than  if  the  stems 
are  cut  off. 

When  mushrooms  are  gathered,  it  is  best  to  take  all 
that  will  answer,  and  the  picking  should  be  at  frequent 
intervals,  that  none  may  become  too  old.  In  packing 
the  mushrooms,  they  should  first  be  sorted  into  three 
sizes,  and  after  removing  all  dirt  with  a  soft  brush,  pack 
them  carefully  in  the  boxes  or  baskets  provided  for  the 
purpose.  If  to  be  sent  any  distance,  a  shallow,  wooden 
box  will  be  desirable,  but  for  local  markets,  light  bas- 
kets holding  from  one  to  ten  pounds,  according  to  the 
wants  of  the  customers,  may  be  used.  The  mushrooms 
should  be  packed  quite  firmly,  and  if  more  than  two  layers 
are  placed  in  the  packages,  they  should  be  separated  by 
soft  paper.  One-pound  packages  are  most  commonly  used. 

A  well-made  mushroom  bed  will  remain  in  bearing 
about  three  months,  and  although  if  kept  at  too  low  a 


A    NEW   MUSHROOM.  223 

temperature  it  may  continue  to  yield  a  crop  for  five  or 
six  months,  the  total  weight  will  be  no  more  than  in  the 
first  case.  The  spawn  can  produce  about  so  many  mush- 
rooms and  will  keep  on,  over  a  period  varying  with  the 
surroundings,  until  it  becomes  exhausted.  One  pound 
per  square  foot  is  an  excellent  crop,  while  half  that 
quantity  is  a  good  average,  and  mushrooms  seldom  sell 
for  less  than  fifty  cents  per  pound  wholesale  in  the  winter 
months.  When  the  crojo  has  been  taken  off,  if  the  litter 
is  removed,  the  bed  moistened  with  lukewarm  water,  an 
inch  or  two  of  loam  added  and  the  litter  replaced,  a 
second  crop  can  generally  be  obtained. 

The  mushrooms  are  attacked  by  a  number  of  insects, 
and  for  description  and  remedies  the  reader  is  referred 
to  the  chapter  treating  on  "Insects  and  Diseases.'* 

A   NEW  MUSHROOM. 

In'  the  summer  of  1891,  Mr.  Boulon,  a  market  gar- 
dener on  Long  Island,  New  York,  discovered  a  new  form 
of  mushroom,  which  gave  such  returns  that  he  grew  it 
largely  the  following  year.  In  1892,  the  same  form 
came  under  the  eye  of  Wm.  Falconer,  then  editor  of 
Gardening,  who  brought  it  to  the  attention  of  Prof.  G. 
H.  Peck,  who  pronounced  it  a  new  species  and  named  it 
AgaricAis  subrvfescens.  It  differs  from  our  common 
mushroom  in  being  larger  and  coarser,  with  a  lighter 
yellow  neck  and  white  gills.  The  cap  is  broader  and 
thinner  and  somewhat  lighter  in  color.  When  grown 
out  of  doors,  it  has  a  coarse,  mushroom-like  appearance, 
but  in  the  house,  especially  if  in  darkness,  it  seems  to 
bleach  out  and  lose  its  coarseness. 

It  is  an  excellent  mushroom  for  growing  in  the 
summer,  as  it  develops  so  rapidly  that  it  almost  escapes 
the  maggot,  and  it  does  equally  well  in  winter,  provided 
it  can  be  given  a  high  temperature.  Beds  made  under- 
neath the  benches,  where  under-bench  piping  is  used. 


224 


GREEXirOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


generally  do  well  if  covered  witli  a  thick  mnlcli  to  retain 
the  moisture.  Besides  requiring  more  heat  than  our 
common  musiiroom,  it  also  needs  much  more  moisture, 
and  many  of  the  failures  that  have  been  met  with  grow- 
ing it  can  generally  be  traced  to  the  lack  of  one  or  the 
other.  As  a  rule,  however,  it  has  been  found  rather 
irregular  in  bearing,  but  when  one  learns  its  proper  care, 
it  is  certainly  promising  as  a  winter  mushroom,  and  very 
valuable  for  summer  growing. 

During  the  summer  a  hotbed  has  been  found  to 
answer    well    for  growing    this   mushroom    (Fig.    81). 


FIG.  !S1.     tin:  .m;\v  mitshiioom  (.'U/arirus  .luhrufescens)  IN  A  COLD 

FKAME. 

After  the  bed  is  spawned  some  other  crop  may  be  put  in 
and  can  be  taken  off  before  the  mushroom  will  appear. 

A   CHEAP  MUSIIEOOM    HOUSE. 

Many  persons  desire  to  grow  mushrooms  who  per- 
haps have  no  greenhouse,  or  who  have  no  place  in  it 
suitable  for  them.     Aside  from  the  needed  heating  appa- 


A  CHEAP  MUSHROOM  HOUSE.  225 

ratus,  a  house  that  will  answer  for  the  purpose  can  be 
constructed  at  a  small  cost. 

A  convenient  form  is  built  about  the  same  as  a  nar- 
row even-span  gi-eenhonse,  except  that  there  is  but  little 
glass  in  the  roof  and  gables.  Use  posts  about  nine  feet 
long,  and  having  made  an  excavation  three 'and  one-half 
feet  deep,  twelve  feet  wide  and  of  the  desired  length,  set 
them  around  it  about  four  feet  apart,  and  so  that  they 
will  be  two  feet  in  the  ground.  Double  board  upon  the 
outside  of  the  posts,  and  complete  the  gables  and  roof 
the  same  as  if  for  a  barn.  A.  still  cheaper  roof  can  be 
constructed  by  using  boards  covered  with  hay.  A  small 
sash  every  fifteen  feet  along  the  roof  will  give  all  the 
light  needed  to  handle  the  crop.  Bank  the  excavated 
soil  against  the  outside  of  the  walls,  up  to  the  level  of  tlie 
plate.  Constructed  in  this  way  there  will  be  room  for 
three  beds,  one  above  the  other  along  each  wall,  with  a 
three-foot  walk  in  the  center.  The  bottom  tier  of  beds 
sliould  be  made  on  the  floor,  and  if  the  others  are  placed 
thirty  inches  apart,  it  will  give  space  for  the  making  of 
the  beds  and  caring  for  the  crop.  With  the  walls  well 
banked,  the  necessary  heat  can  be  jjrovided  by  four  or 
five  one  and  one-half-inch  hot  water  pipes. 

If  a  house  twenty  feet  wide  is  preferred,  it  should, 
in  addition  to  the  three  tiers  of  beds  along  each  side, 
have  three  or  four  beds  six  feet  wide  in  a  rack  through 
the  center  of  the  hoase. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

ASPARAGUS,    RHUBARB  AND    CAULIFLOWER. 

The  forcing  of  tliepe  vegetables  in  the  greenhouse  is 
becoming  an  important  industry  with  many  florists,  as 
nearly  all  the  money  obtained  for  them  is  clear  gain  ; 
the  space  they  occupy  is  not  likely  to  be  used  for  other 
purposes  and  there  is  no  outlay  except  a  small  amount 
for  labor,  and  this  is  paid  for  several  fold  by  the  returns 
from  the  crops. 

ASPARAGUS   FORCING. 

The  plants  used  for  forcing  asparagus  are  from  old, 
out-of-door  plantations,  or  they  maybe  grown  from  seed 
to  the  age  of  three  years,  the  seed  being  sown  early  in  the 
spring  in  drills  fifteen  inches  apart,  upon  rich  and  mod- 
erately heavy  sandy  loam.  One  pound  of  seed  will  be 
sufficient  for  200  feet  of  drill.  As  the  seed  is  slow  to 
germinate,  it  is  well  to  sow  with  it  a  few  radish  seeds, 
which  will  soon  appear  and  will  mark  the  line  of  the 
drill  so  that  cultivation  can  begin  at  once.  The  seeds 
should  be  covered  one  inch  or  slightly  more,  and  the 
soil  compacted.  The  seeds  need  good  cultivation  the 
first  year,  and  the  following  spring  can  be  planted  out  to 
develop  strength.  As  they  will  remain  only  two  years, 
they  can  be  placed  quite  thickly,  if  the  soil  is  well 
enriched.  A  space  of  two  and  one-half  by  one  foot  for 
each  plant  will  answer,  although  a  little  more  is  desira- 
ble. Here  they  are  grown  for  two  seasons,  and  can  be 
dug  just  before  the  ground  freezes,  and  used  for  forcing 
purposes.  Since  the  sowing  of  the  seed,  a  period  of  two 
326 


ASPARAGUS   FOKCING.  237 

years  and  six  months  has  elapsed.  The  plants  can  be 
forced  in  almost  any  place  where  a  temperature  of  fifty 
or  sixty  degrees  can  be  secured,  but  the  llorist  will  gen- 
erally utilize  some  of  the  space  under  his  benches,  or  it 
may  be  he  has  a  solid  bed  or  even  a  raised  bed  for  which 
he  has  no  use  for  a  season.  The  soil  should  be  a  rich, 
sandy  loam  with  arrangements  for  thorough  drainage. 

For  early  cutting,  they  can  be  planted  at  the  time  of 
digging,  about  the  middle  of  November,  while  the  bal- 
ance of  the  plants  should  be  stored  in  a  pit  or  cool  cellar 
and  brought  in  at  intervals  of  four  weeks,  to  give  a  suc- 
cession. The  plants  should  be  set  from  six  to  twelve 
inches  apart,  each  way,  according  to  their  size,  and 
should  be  well  wet  down.  For  the  first  ten  days  after 
setting,  they  should  be  kept  rather  cool  (45  to  50 
degrees)  and  given  a  chance  to  establish  themselves. 
Afterward,  the  temperature  should  be  raised  to  55  or  60 
degrees,  and  if  still  higher  it  will  aid  m  the  forcing  proc- 
ess and  should  be  given,  if  needed,  for  other  plants. 
During  the  day  it  can  be  run  up  as  high  as  80  to  85 
degrees.  The  asparagus  will  use  a  large  amount  of  water, 
but  unless  it  has  had  the  chill  taken  off,  and  ample  means 
for  drainage  jirovided,  it  c:in  do  far  more  harm  than  good. 

In  setting  out  the  asparagus  in  the  house,  the  crowns 
should  be  covered  about  an  inch,  except  in  localities 
where  a  blanched  article  is  required,  in  which  case, 
unless  they  can  be  shut  in  from  the  light,  additional 
soil  should  be  added.  In  about  six  weeks  from  the  time 
of  planting,  cutting  can  begin  and  will  continue  accord- 
ing to  the  temperature  and  the  strength  of  the  plants 
until  they  are  exhausted.  They  can  then  be  thrown  out 
and  the  space  filled  with  others.  If  care  is  taken  to  secure  a 
succession,  asparagus  can  be  cut  continually  from  Christ- 
mas until  the  field-grown  article  is  offered  in  the  spring. 

Asparagus  may  also  be  grown  in  cold  frames.  The 
plants  should  be  set  about  one  foot  each  way,  and  at  the 


228  GKEENITOUSE   MAN-AGEMENT. 

end  of  two  years  a  crop  may  be  taken.  In  the  full,  put 
up  the  frame  and  fill  it  with  horse  mannre,  hanking  up 
against  the  outside  of  the  frame  with  the  same  material. 
Cover  with  sash  and  shutters  to  keep  out  the  frost. 
Early  in  March,  remove  tlie  manure  over  the  plants,  wet 
down  the  beds  thoroughly,  and  handle  the  same  as  any 
cold  frame. 

WINTER   RHUBARB. 

With  but  few  changes,  tlie  directions  given  for  tlie 
forcing  of  aspai'agus  will  apply  to  rhubarb.  The  drills 
should  be  somewhat  further  apart,  and  a  pound  of  seed 
"will  be  sufficient  for  300  feet  of  drill.  In  setting  the 
plants  in  the  field,  they  will  need  at  least  three  and  one- 
half  by  two  feet,  while  in  the  greenhouse  they  should 
have  a  space  of  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  square, 
and  if  the  roots  are  very  strong  twenty-four  by  eighteen 
will  be  none  too  much.  Nothing  will  be  gained  by  set- 
ting the  plants  before  Jan.  1,  or  until  they  have  had  a 
period  of  rest.  After  the  stalks  are  half  grown,  liquid 
manure  can  be  applied  to  advantage  once  or  twice  a 
week.  If  the  soil  is  properly  drained,  the  plants  can  use 
large  quantities,  but  it  should  not  be  used  too  copiously 
unless  the  chill  has  been  taken  off  from  the  water,  other- 
wise the  growth  might  be  checked.  The  Linnaeus  is  an 
excellent  forcing  sort,  but  as  with  all  other  large  varie- 
ties, the  crop  will  need  to  be  harvested  when  about  half 
giown,  if  the  plants  are  placed  as  thickly  as  recom- 
mended above.  The  crown  of  the  plant  is  quite  tender 
and  care  must  be  taken,  when  gathering  the  stalks,  not 
to  break  it  off. 

For  spring  use,  rhubarb  may  be  grown  in  cold 
frames,  the  same  as  asparagus,  except  that  the  plants 
should  be  two  or  three  feet  apart  each  way. 

THE   FORCING    OF   CAULIFLOWERS. 

While  cauliflower  is,  to  a  considerable  extent,  forced 
in  hotbeds  for  spring  use,  it  has  also  come  into  popular 


THE   FORCING    OF   CAULIFLOWERS.  229 

favor  as  a  winter  vegetable.  It  can  be  very  easily  raised 
and  tliere  is  no  reason  why,  wath  a  good  market^  it  may 
not  be  a  paying  crop. 

The  seed  of  the  first  batch  should  be  sown  either  in 
a  flat  or  in  a  bed  out  of  doors,  about  the  first  of  Septem- 
ber. Tlie  seedlings  will  be  of  a  suitable  size  to  prick 
out  into  other  flats  in  about  three  weeks  and  can  be  set 
in  the  beds  by  the  middle  of  October.  The  soil  and  the 
beds  should  be  about  the  same  as  for  radishes,  except 
that  the  cauliflower  requires  a  rather  more  nitroge- 
nous soil. 

They  should  have  about  the  same  temperature  as 
lettuce  and  radishes,  and  the  rules  given  for  the  Avatering 
and  ventilating  for  those  crops  will  answer  for  the  cauli- 
flower. The  plants  should  be  set  about  eighteen  or 
twenty  inches  apart  each  way,  and  should  be  ready  to 
market  from  the  18th  to  the  30th  of  January,  according 
to  the  care  they  receive.  Plants  for  a  second  crop  should 
be  sown  about  the  first  of  November,  and  after  having 
been  pricked  out  and  grown  in  a  flat  five  or  six  weeks, 
they  can  be  re-transplanted  to  other  flats  at  four  inches, 
or  can  be  placed  in  four-inch  pots  to  be  grown  until  the 
first  crop  is  out  of  the  way,  which  should  be  by  the  early 
part  of  February.  The  plants  at  this  time  should  be 
large  and  strong  and  will  quickly  make  their  growth, — 
perfecting  marketable  heads  early  in  April.  As  with  all 
forced  crops,  the  plants  should  never  be  checked,  biit 
should  be  so  handled  that  they  will  make  a  regular 
growth  from  the  time  the  seed  is  sown  until  the  crop  is 
harvested.  If  space  is  available  a  continuous  succession 
of  cauliflowers  can  be  obtained  for  the  table  or  market, 
by  making  a  sowing  every  two  weeks. 

The  time  allowed  for  the  development  of  the  heads 
does  not  allow  them  to  reach  full  size,  but  when  half 
grown  they  will  bring  nearly  as  much  as  if  left  two 
weeks  longer,  and  it  is  best  to  cut  them  at  the  size  of 


230  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

from  four  to  six  inches  in  diameter,  as  it  allows  the  bed 
to  be  cleared  for  another  crop.  There  is  little  differ- 
ence between  a  good  strain  of  Snowball  cauliflower 
and  any  of  the  better  strains  of  Early  Dwarf  Erfurt  tliat 
are  on  the  market  under  different  names. 


CHAPTER  XVII.    - 

RADISHES,  CARROTS,  BEETS  AND  BEANS. 
FORCING  RADISHES. 

One  of  the  first  vegetables  to  be  forced  was  the  radish, 
and  although  it  has  perhaps  held  its  own,  there  certainly 
has  not  been  any  marked  increase  in  the  amount  raised 
for  winter.  The  demand  in  the  spring  for  hotbed  and 
frame  radishes  has  grown  to  large  proportions.  The 
crop  can  be  easily  raised  in  the  winter,  and  tliere  is  no 
reason  why  the  area  of  glass  now  devoted  to  it  cannot 
readily  be  doubled. 

The  crop  succeeds  well  on  either  a  well-drained, 
solid  bed  or  a  deep,  raised  bench,  filled  with  from  four 
to  six  inches  of  rich,  light  loam  ;  the  greater  depth 
should  be  used  for  the  long-rooted  varieties,  while  the 
bed  can  be  more  easily  regulated,  and  as  good  results  can 
be  obtained,  if  the  soil  is  not  over  four  inches  deep  for  the 
turnip-rooted  sorts.  The  seed  should  be  sown  in  drills, 
varying  from  five  to  six  inches  apart,  according  to  the 
variety,  as  some  kinds  have  small  foliage  that  will 
enable  the  plants  to  grow  close  together,  while  other 
forcing  sorts  will  need  at  least  six  inches.  If  the  seed 
has  been  tested  and  known  to  be  good,  it  could  be  scat- 
tered in  drills  half  an  inch  deep,  at  intervals  of  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch.     It  would  be  better,  however,  as 


EADISHES,    CAKKOTS,    BEETS  AKD  BEANS.  231 

some  of  the  plants  may  be  destroyed,  to  plant  the  seeds 
somewhat  closer,  say  at  intervals  of  half  an  inch.  The 
seeds  should  be  covered  and  the  soil  leveled  off  and 
pressed  down.  If  the  soil  is  moist,  as  it  should  be,  one 
watering  at  the  time  of  sowing  will  be  all  that  is  neces- 
sary until  germination  is  completed. 

During  their  entire  growth,  radishes  need  thorough 
ventilation  and  the  air  should  be  on  at  least  for  a  short 
time  each  day,  except  in  the  most  inclement  weather. 
The  night  temperature  should  be  about  50  degrees,  with 
a  minimum  for  best  results  of  45  degrees,  although  if  it 
drops  slightly  below  40  degrees  occasionally  little  harm 
will  be  done.  With  a  full  amount  of  air  on,  it  will  do 
no  harm  if  on  bright  days  the  temperature  of  the  house 
runs  up,  with  sun  heat,  to  70  or  75  degrees,  but  as  a 
radish  grows  best  in  a  cool  temperature,  nothing  over  60 
or  65  degrees  should  be  given,  except  by  sun  heat. 
When  the  second  rough  leaf  begins  to  form,  the  plants 
should  be  thinned  out  so  as  to  leave  a  plant  every  one 
and  one-half  or  two  inches  in  the  rows. 

While  the  plants  ai-e  small,  only  a  small  amount  of 
water  is  used  by  them  and  care  must  be  taken  not  to 
saturate  the  bed.  Syringing  will  be  helpful  on  bright 
mornings.  The  first  sowing  should  be  made  about  the 
first  of  October  and  to  secure  a  succession  should  be 
repeated  every  three  weeks.  Tlie  principal  enemy  of  the 
radish  in  the  forcing  house  is  the  green  aphis,  which  can 
be  kept  in  check  by  fumigating  with  tobacco  twice  a 
week.  With  proper  conditions  for  growth  and  a  clean 
house,  they  seldom  appear.  For  spring  use,  the  radishes 
should  be  sown  in  hotbeds  about  the  1st  and  15th  of 
March  and  in  a  cold  frame  on  the  15th  of  April,  after 
which  they  can  be  grown  in  the  open  air. 

The  best  variety  for  winter  forcing  is  a  good  strain 
of  White-Tipped  Scarlet  Turnip,  Cardinal, Globe  or  Scar- 
let  Crlobe,   although  the  Scarlet    Turnip  and   Frcucli 


232  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

Breakfast  are  still  much  used.  Twenty  Day  Forcing 
and  similar  kinds  are  very  early,  but  as  a  rule  the  small 
size  more  than  offsets  this  advantage.  Long  Scarlet  and 
Wood's  Frame  are  among  the  best  for  hotbed  and  cold 
frame  use. 

CARROTS. 

Carrots  have  not  been  largely  grown  in  greenhouses, 
as  they  can  readily  be  carried  over  winter  from  the  pre- 
vious summer.  They  should  be  sown  in  the  same  way, 
and  require  about  the  same  care,  as  the  radish,  when 
grown  either  in  the  forcing  house  or  hotbed.  In  the 
latter  place  and  in  the  frame  they  are  grown  to  a  con- 
siderable extent.  The  Early  French  Forcirg  is  the  kind 
commonly  used  under  glass. 

BEETS. 

This  also  is  a  profitable  crop,  either  for  the  forcing 
house  or  hotbed.  The  best  variety  is  the  Eclipse, 
although  the  Egyptian  is  much  used,  as  they  are  quick 
to  develop  and  have  small  tops.  The  seed  should  be 
sown  in  drills  twelve  inches  apart,  and  the  plants  should 
be  thinned  three  or  four  inches  in  the  rows  when  they 
have  two  jeaves.  A  crop  of  lettuce  or  radishes  can  be 
grown  between  the  rows  and  taken  off  before  the  beets 
need  the  room. 

If  given  a  high  temperature,  the  plants  run  to  tops, 
hence  the  house  should  be  kept  at  45  or  50  degrees,  and 
given  free  ventilation. 

FORCING   BEANS. 

While  grown  extensively  for  the  winter  markets  of 
London,  and  Paris,  the  bean  has  not  come  into  much 
prominence  as  a  forced  crop  in  this  country.  It  requires 
a  temperature  of  from  65  to  70  degrees  for  its  successful 
growth  ar.d  to  maintain  this  requires  a  large  consump- 
tion of  fuel,  so  that  the  product  must  bring  a  high  price 
to  be  remunerative.     In  connection  with  tomatoes  or 


RADISHES,    CA.EROTS,    BEETS   AND   BEAKS.  233 

011011011)618,  beans  can,  however,  be  grown  as  a  catch 
crop.  They  can  be  grown  either  in  the  beds  or  in  pots. 
If  in  the  latter,  five  or  six  boans  are  sown  in  a  seven-  or 
eight-inch  pot,  and  are  grown  without  shifting,  using 
liquid  manure  after  the  roots  have  matted.  If  to  be 
grown  in  the  bed,  they  can  be  sown  in  drills  one  foot 
apart  and  three  inches  in  the  row,  and  should  be  thinned 
to  stand  about  six  by  twelve  inches,  or  they  can  be 
started  by  sowing  three  or  four  beans  in  a  four-inch  pot, 
and  as  soon  as  the  first  two  leaves  have  formed  and 
before  they  become  pot-bound,  transplant  to  the  bed, 
placing  them  one  foot  square,  first  removing  all  but  two 
plants ;  in  this  way,  the  ground  can  be  utilized  to  the 
best  advantage  and  a  succession  can  be  maintained. 

During  the  growth  of  the  plants,  the  air  should  be 
kept  rather  moist,  to  keep  down  the  red  spider,  but 
water  should  not  touch  the  foliage.  When  they  are  in 
flower,  in  order  to  set  well  they  should  have  good  venti- 
lation and  the  air  must  be  kept  rather  dry.  They  can 
be  aided  in  the  fertilization  of  the  ovules  if  they  are 
hand  pollinated.  The  Sion  House  and  Osborne  Forcing 
are  generally  used  for  this  purpose,  although  Golden 
Wax  and  other  early  wax  sorts  are  well  suited  for  winter 
forcing. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

GRAPE   GEOWING   UNDER   GLASS. 

While  the  low  price  at  which  California  grapes  can 
be  placed  on  onr  markets  has  rendered  the  raising  of 
grapes  in  greenhouses,  as  a  commercial  venture,  decid- 
edly unprofitable,  the  vinery  is  likely  to  remain  a  part 
of  private  greenhouse  establishments,  and  as  there  is  a 
dearth  of  literature  upon  the  subject,  a  brief  statement 
as  to  the  proper  methods  to  pursue  is  here  appended. 

Writers  upon  this  subject  are  generally  very  exact 
in  their  advice,  but  while  much  depends  upon  the  char- 
acter of  the  soil,  and  tiie  amount  of  moisture  and  heat 
furnislicd  in  a  forcing  grapery,  this  exact  treatment  is 
not  so  necessary  in  a  cold  grapery.  In  fact,  grapes  have 
been  grown  with  success  in  greenliouses  witii  but  little, 
if  any,  more  care  than  should  be  given  the  hardy  grapes 
in  the  open  air.  It  is  desirable,  however,  that  a  well  pre- 
pared bed  or  border  be  furnished  them,  particularly  as 
grapes  under  proper  conditions  will  live  for  many  years. 

THE    GRAPE   BORDER. 

In  choosing  a  soil  for  grapes,  the  heavy  clay  as  well 
as  the  light,  sandy  loams  should  not  be  selected.  If 
nothing  better  can  be  secured,  the  former  may  be  used, 
as  mixed  with  sand  it  will  be  made  friable,  but  the 
light  sandy  loams  are  not  lasting  enough  to  be  used  as 
the  base  for  the  vine  compost.  If  turf  can  be  obtained 
from  an  old  pasture,  that  lias  a  thick  fibrous  sod  and  a 
heavy  sandy  or  liglit  clay  loam  soil,  it  Avill  be  found  to 
l^e  well  adapted   for  grape  growing.      Tlji?  should  b^ 

m 


GEAPE   GROWING   UNDER  GLASS.  235 

broken  up,  and  for  every  five  yards  of  sod,  about  one 
yard  of  lime  rubbish,  a  small  quantity  of  charcoal, 
broken  bricks  and  calcined  oyster  shells,  should  be 
added.  It  will  also  be  well  to  add  one  hundred  pounds 
of  broken  up  bones.  If  this  compost  is  prepared  in  the 
fall  and  piled  up  so  as  to  shed  rain,  it  will  be  in  shape  to 
use  the  next  spring,  although  if  necessary  it  may  be 
used  at  once. 

As  a  rule,  if  the  soil  is  fairly  rich,  no  manure  should 
be  applied  with  the  compost,  but  it  can  be  added  as  a 
top-dressing  whenever  needed.  In  case  the  best  turf 
that  can  be  obtained  is  thin  and  growing  upon 
exhausted  soil,  cut  it  to  the  depth  of  two  inches  and 
mix  it  with  equal  parts  of  rich  garden  soil  and  half 
decomposed  strawy  manure.  A  well  drained,  deep, 
moderately  rich  garden  soil  will  give  good  results  with- 
out preparing  any  special  border,  if  properly  top-dressed. 
As  soon  as  the  vines  get  to  bearing,  it  is  well  to  scrape 
off  the  surface  soil,  if  it  can  be  done  without  destroying 
the  roots,  and  add  a  compost  of  equal  jDarts  of  turf  and 
stable  manure. 

The  vine  border  should  be  as  wide  as  the  roof  that 
is  to  be  covered,  and  may  be  entirely  within  the  houses, 
or  half  inside  and  half  outside,  with  the  roots  passing 
out  through  arches  in  the  wall.  The  border  should  be 
about  two  feet  deep,  but  it  need  not  be  made  to  its  full 
width  at  the  time  of  planting.  If  five  or  six  feet  wide, 
it  will  suffice  for  the  first  year,  and  additions  can  be 
made  until,  by  the  beginning  of  the  fourth  year,  the  full 
width  has  been  reached. 

To  provide  the  necessary  fertility  for  the  vines, 
mineral  fertilizers  are  desirable,  as  they  produce  a  firm 
and  healthy  growth  that  is  less  likely  to  be  injured  by 
unfavorable  conditions  than  the  soft,  watery  growth 
obtained  from  stable  manure.  If  one  peck  of  wood 
ashes,  two  pounds  of  ground  bone  and  one-half  pound 


236  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

of  nitrate  of  soda  are  used  to  one  liundred  square  feet  of 
border,  it  will  have  an  excellent  effect.  In  addition  to 
this  application,  an  inch  or  so  of  finely  rotted  manure 
should  be  spread  over  the  border,  both  to  furnish  food 
and  to  act  as  a  mulch  to  prevent  evaporation  from 
the  surface. 

SELECTING  THE   PLANTS. 

The  best  plants  are  grown  from  eye  cuttings,  and 
should  be  planted  when  one  year  old.  These  will  make 
a  stronger  start  than  layers  from  old  plants,  or  than 
plants  two  or  three  years  old.  In  selecting  the  varieties, 
the  method  in  which  they  are  to  be  grown  should  be 
considered.  The  first  choice  will  always  be  Black  Ham- 
burg, as  this  is  easily  grown  and  thrives  in  either  a  hot 
or  cold  vinery.  As  a  rule,  fully  half  of  the  vines  should 
be  of  that  variety,  and  for  commercial  purposes  it  will 
be  as  well,  at  least  so  far  as  the  yield  is  concerned,  if 
the  other  half  are  also  of  that  sort. 

For  a  cool  house,  20x30  feet,  the  following  varieties, 
in  numbers  as  indicated  by  the  figures  in  parentheses, 
could  be  used : 

Black  Hamburg  (6),  merlinm.     (Fig.  83.) 

Royal  Muscadine  (2),  white,  early. 

Buckland  Sweetwater  (2),  white,  medium. 

Alicante  (1),  black,  late. 

Rose  Chasselas  (1),  red,  early. 

White  Frontignan  (1),  white,  medium. 

Golden  Hamburg  (1),  greenish  yellow,  mediiun. 

Muscat  of  Alexandria  (1),  amber,  late. 

Lady  Downer  (1),  black,  late. 

A  hot  vinery  of  the  same  size  could  be  filled  with : 

Black  Hamburg  (5),  black,  medium. 
Royal  Muscadine  (1),  white,  early. 
Muscat  Hamburg  (1),  black,  medium. 
Syrinn  (1),  white,  late. 
Muscat  of  Alexandria  (1),  amber,  late. 
Lady  Downer  (1)  black,  late. 
Rose  Chasselas  (1),  red.  e-.rly. 
Rirbarossa  (1),  black,  late,  large. 


CARE  THE  FIKST  SEASON".  237 

Buckland  Sweetwater  (1),  white,  medium. 
Grizzly  Frontignan  (1),  dull  red,  medium. 
Alicante  (1),  black,  late. 
Golden  Hamburg  (1),  greenish  yellow,  medium. 

If  the  plants  have  been  grown  in  pots,  so  that  the 
roots  have  matted,  the  bulls  should  be  broken  up.  At 
any  rate,  the  roots  should  be  carefully  spread  out  in  av 
excavation  about  nine  inches  deep,  and  covered  with  fine 
soil,  each  row  of  roots  being  covered  separately.  If  the 
border  is  all  inside  the  house,  the  plants  should  be 
placed  about  two  feet  from  the  wall,  unless  the  heating 
pipes  are  next  to  the  w^all,  when  a  distance  of  three  or 
even  four  feet  will  be  none  too  great;  if  part  of  the 
border  is  outside,  they  may  be  planted  inside  so  that  the 
roots  can  run  out  through  the  arch,  or  they  may  be 
planted  outside,  and  brought  in  through  the  opening,  at  a 
a  depth  of  five  or  six  inches  below  the  surface  of  the  border. 

About  the  first  of  May  is  a  good  time  to  plant  the 
vines,  although  the  time  might  be  varied  two  or  three 
weeks  either  way,  dejiending  upon  the  conditions  in 
which  the  vines  have  been  kept.  The  proper  time  to 
plant  is  after  the  buds  begin  to  swell  and  before  they 
burst.  The  custom  is  to  plant  the  vines  about  three 
feet  apart,  although  some  prefer  a  greater  distance. 

CAKE   THE  FIRST   SEASOIST. 

As  soon  as  the  vines  are  planted,  they  should  be  cut 
oack  to  a  strong  bud  within  a  foot  of  the  ground,  and  a 
single  shoot  from  this  should  be  trained  to  the  trellis, 
rubbing  off  all  side  shoots  that  form  on  the  lower  half 
of  the  rafter,  but  after  it  has  reached  a  hight  of  six  or 
eight  feet  it  may  develop  at  will.  This  will  enlarge  the 
leaf  surface  and  will  make  the  lower  portion  of  the  stem 
much  stronger  than  if  the  vine  was  only  allowed  to 
develop  at  the  tip. 

Many  growers  advise  glazing  the  roof  of  the  gra- 
peries, so  as  to  leave  half-inch  cracks  between  the  panes. 


238 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


thus  jirovlcling  for  ventilation  and 
cient  amount  of  fresh  air  and  rain  for  tills  purpose  can 
enter  through  the  openings.  In  this  way,  the  grapes 
can  be  grown  with  much  less  care  than  in  tight  houses, 
and  good  results  are  often  obtained  in  favorable  seasons. 
On  the  other  hand,  if  the  summer  is  cold  and  wet,  fa? 


m 

<V^^^P^ 

$ 

"m^m^. 

l^ 

,-"■■  ■■"  ^^  ^ 

m 

^1?^ 

^^^t^K^H^K  ^^^'-•'  i^^  ^j|iff||H 

^""'y^'^ 

^K^^^Kk       -  -^^  ^^1 

t^lag[j     ^jF  '^                            l^H 

-■■'      s."  ^^ip^ 

FIG.  82.      BLACK   HAMBURG  GRAPES. 

better  returns  will  be  received  if  the  house  is  so  arranged 
that  the  amount  of  ventilation  and  water  can  be  regu- 
lated to  suit  the  conditions. 

In  a  cold  grapery,  the  ventilation  should  be  grad- 
ually increased,  as  the  weatlier  warms  up,  and  after  the 
middle  of  June  the  ventilators  can  be  left  Avide  open  at 
night  until  the  first  of  September,  except  in  cold,  wet 


TfiAINING  AND  PRUNING  THE  SECOND  SEASON.     239 

weather,  wLen  they  may  bo  partly  closed.  Less  ventila- 
tion should  be  given  in  a  hot  vinery,  and  the  house 
should  be  closed  at  night  and  opened  during  the  day, 
when  it  can  be  done  without  dropping  the  temj)erature 
below  seventy  degrees. 

TRAINING   AND   PRUNING   THE   SECOND   SEASON. 

A  vine  that  has  been  planted  out  one  year  and  that 
has  been  trained  as  directed,  should  be  cut  back,  a 
month  or  so  after  the  leaves  have  fallen,  leaving  a  stem 
from  four  to  six  feet  long,  according  to  the  strength  of 
the  vine  (Fig.  83).  From  this,  a  strong  bud  should  be 
allowed  to  develop  a  leader,  to  extend  the  vine  up  the 
rafter,  which  should  be  treated  in  the  same  way  as  the 
leading  slioot  of  the  first  year.  All  side  buds  should  be 
rubbed  off  as  they  sts.i't,  below  the  bottom  of  the  rafter. 
If  the  vines  are  very  strong,  a  few  of  the  stronger  side 
shoots,  if  grapes  set  upon  them,  may  be  allowed  to  ripen 
one  bunch  each.  These  laterals  should  be  pinched  off 
when  they  reach  a  length  of  twelve  to  fifteen  inches. 
The  simplest  and  one  of  the  most  satisfactory  forms  of 
trellis  is  made  of  No.  12  galvanized  wire,  stretched  about 
one  foot  apart  and  fifteen  inches  from  the  glass. 

Another  method  of  training  the  vines,  if  they  are 
strong,  and  of  obtaining  a  little  fruit  the  second  season, 
is  by  layering  the  vine  in  a  ten-inch  pot  four  or  five  feet 
up  the  cane.  This  shoot  may  be  allowed  to  set  a  few 
bunches,  and  the  stem  below  will  make  about  as  good  a 
growth  as  if  it  had  not  been  layered.  After  ripening 
the  grapes,  the  layer  may  be  cut  off  at  the  lower  end  of 
the  rafter,  and  may  be  used  for  planting  out,  or  as  a  pot 
plant,  while  the  main  stem  will  be  in  good  shape  for 
its  third  season's  growth. 

A  third  and  very  good  method  of  pruning  the  vine 
after  being  planted  out  one  year,  especially  if  its  growth 
has  not  been  strong,  is  to  cut  the  cane  back  to  the  bot- 


uo 


GREEirnoUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


PRUNING  AND  TRAINING  THE   THIRD  SEASON.   241 

torn  of  the  rafter,  and  train  the  same  as  the  first  year, 
rubbing  ont  all  shoots  that  break  for  six  feet  above 
the  rafter. 

PRUNING   AND   TRAINING   THE   THIRD   SEASON. 

The  yines  should  be  cut  back  at  the  same  time  as 
the  previous  year,  leaving  about  six  feet  of  the  main 
cane  above  the  bottom  of  the  rafters,  or,  if  the  cane  was 
allowed  to  grow  as  first  described,  ten  feet  may  be  left. 
The  buds  upon  this  shoot  should  break  into  strong  lat- 
erals, upon  which  the  fruit  is  borne.  Not  over  two 
bunches  should  be  allowed,  even  upon  the  strongest 
shoots,  and  the  laterals  should  be  pinched  after  one  or 
two  leaves  beyond  the  last  bunch  have  formed.  A  lead- 
ing shoot  should  be  trained  from  the  strong  bud  at  the 
upper  end  of  the  main  stem,  from  which  all  lateral 
shoots  should  be  rubbed.  When  growth  is  over  in  the 
autumn  and  the  leaves  have  fallen,  the  vines  should  be 
cut  back  for  the  fourth  season.  The  laterals  should  be 
cut  back  to  one  bud  and  the  leaves  should  be  cut  so  as 
to  allow  about  five  feet  of  the  stem  to  extend  up  the 
rafter.  This  is  known  as  the  spur  system  of  pruning, 
and  after  the  leader  has  reached  the  end  of  the  rafter  it 
merely  consists  in  cutting  tl!e  laterals  back  to  one  bud. 

SUMMER   PINCHING,    DISBUDDING   AND    THINNING. 

As  soon  as  the  buds  break,  all  extra  shoots  should 
be  rubbed  out,  and  during  the  season  the  vines  should 
be  frequently  examined  and  all  superfluous  shoots 
removed.  As  a  rule,  if  large  bunches  are  desired,  only 
one  should  be  left  upon  a  spur,  although  two  may  be 
grown  upon  strong  shoots.  Each  year,  as  soon  as  the 
fruit  has  set,  the  shoot  should  be  pinched  off,  leaving 
one  leaf  beyond  the  last  bunch,  and  if  laterals  start,  they 
should  be  rubbed  off.  Not  only  should  the  surplus 
shoots  and  bunches  be  removed,  Ibut  if  large  berries  are 
desired  the  bunches  themselves  should  be  thinned  out. 
16 


;84:2  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

"When  the  grapes  are  about  tlie  size  of  peas,  the  center  of 
the  bunches  can  be  cut  out  with  scissors,  and  when  those 
on  the  outside  have  set  in  ckisters  of  three,  one  or  two 
of  the  berries  can  also  be  removed. 

In  forming  the  sj^urs  upon  the  sides  of  the  main 
shoots,  it  sometimes  is  necessary  to  remove  some  of  tlie 
shoots  that  start.  As  a  rule,  the  laterals  should  not  be 
nearer  than  twelve  or  fifteen  inches,  and  sometimes  a 
distance  even  greater  than  tliis  is  desirable.  The  length 
to  which  the  laterals  may  be  allowed  to  grow  before  they 
are  pinched  in,  is  determined  by  the  distance  at  which 
the  vines  are  planted.  If  placed  three  feet  apart,  the 
laterals  will  interlace  at  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  and 
should  be  j^inched  back  at  the  point  of  meeting.  All 
superfluous  bunches,  and  all  tendrils  at  the  same  nodes 
with  the  remaining  bunches,  should  be  removed  at 
the  same  time. 

While  it  is  desirable  to  pinch  in  some  shoots  and 
thin  out  others,  to  prevent  the  vines  from  becoming  too 
thick  upon  the  trellises,  on  the  other  hand,  great  harm 
can  be  done  by  thinning  too  much,  as  the  leaves  are  the 
assimilating  organs  of  the  plant,  and,  up  to  the  capacity 
of  the  plant  and  the  trellis,  the  greater  the  amount  of 
leaf  surface,  the  greater  will  be  the  growth. 

WATERING   AND    SYRINGING. 

Grapes  thrive  best  in  a  warm,  moist  atmosphere, 
which  not  only  tends  to  keep  the  red  spider  in  check, 
but  promotes  the  growth  of  the  plants.  A  proper  degree 
of  moisture  should  always  be  maintained  in  the  border 
by  watering  whenever  it  shows  signs  of  being  dry,  and 
in  the  air  by  wetting  walks  and  syringing  the  plants. 
Syringing  is  particularly  desirable  at  the  time  the  vines 
are  breaking,  and  on  bright  days  should  be  performed 
two  or  three  times,  nntil  the  shoots  have  started  and  the 
flowers  are  opening,  but  it  should  then  be  discontinued. 


TEMPERATUEE   AND   VENTILATION.  243 

as  the  pollination  is  more  perfect  if  the  air  is  warm  and 
dry.  Fertilization  is  aided  by  giving  the  vines  a  thor- 
ough jarring.  The  pollen  is  generally  shed  in  greatest 
abundance  by  the  anthers  during  the  forenoon  of  bright 
days,  and  its  distribution  can  be  assisted  by  giving  thor- 
ough ventilation,  which  will  remove  all  surplus  moisture 
from  the  air. 

As  the  bunches  develop,  the  air  should  be  kept 
moist  by  the  free  use  of  water  upon  the  border,  etc.,  but 
syringing  the  foliage  at  this  time  is  not  to  be  recom- 
mended, particularly  with  bearing  vines.  During  the 
ripening  period  the  air  should  again  be  dry,  and  water 
should  be  very  sparingly  used. 

TEMPERATURE   AND   VENTILATION. 

Ventilation  is  not  only  for  the  purpose  of  regulat- 
ing the  temperature  of  the  houses  during  the  day,  but  it 
serves  to  admit  fresh  air  and  also,  to  some  extent,  con- 
trols the  moisture  in  the  air.  The  air  should  be 
admitted  on  bright  mornings  as  soon  as  the  sun  is  well 
up,  and  the  amount  of  ventilation  should  be  gradually 
increased  as  the  season  advances.  In  pleasant  weather, 
the  ventilators  may  remain  open  at  night,  but,  although 
grapes  have  been  grown  with  success  in  houses  where 
the  ventilators  are  opened  in  the  spring  and  not  closed 
until  fall,  it  is  better  to  regulate  them  according  to  the 
weather,  and  in  cold,  wet  spells,  such  as  occur  fre- 
quently, the  houses  will  be  better  off  if  closed. 

In  the  hot  vinery,  although  the  house  should  be 
opened  to  admit  fresh  air,  the  amount  of  ventilation 
desirable  is  considerably  less  than  in  cool  graperies. 
When  first  started,  the  hot  graperies  should  be  given  a 
temperature  of  about  50  degrees  at  night,  with  from  65 
to  70  degrees  during  the  day.  This  should  be  raised  in 
three  or  four  weeks  to  60  degrees  at  night,  and  it  may 
be  75  to  80  degress,  or  even  uiore,  during  the  day.     Oa 


24-i  GKEEXHOUSE  MAXAGEMENT. 

bright  days  in  the  spring,  air  may  bo  given  for  three  oi 
four  hours  during  the  middle  of  the  day,  but  it  is  well  to 
close  up  early,  in  order  that  the  heat  from  the  sun  maj 
be  trapped,  and  used  to  warm  np  the  houses  for  the  night. 

FORCING    GRAPES. 

This  term  is  now  used  in  reference  to  several  oper- 
ations. In  a  strict  sense,  it  applies  to  the  starting  of 
the  Tines  by  the  aid  of  artificial  heat,  at  any  time  from 
December  to  February  or  March,  with  the  object  of 
securing  fruit  in  advance  of  the  main  crop.  Forcing  is 
also  necessary  with  varieties  that  will  not  ripen  without 
artificial  heat,  which  may  be  used  to  start  them  earlier 
than  would,  otherwise  be  possible,  or  it  may  be  used  to 
ripen  them  in  the  fall,  or  both.  Another  use  of  the  hot 
vinery  is  to  grow  varieties  that  require  a  rather  higher 
temperature  than  is  afforded  by  our  climate. 

If  vines  are  to  be  used  for  early  forcing,  they  must 
be  brought  into  this  habit  gradually,  and  by  starting 
them  one  year  by  the  first  of  March  it  will  be  possible 
to  start  them  a  fcvV  weeks  earlier  the  next  year,  and  by 
continuing  this,  the  time  at  which  they  can  be  started 
will  be  carried  back  to  January,  or  even  December.  It 
will  take  about  five  months  for  the  early  varieties  to  be 
brought  to  maturity  in  the  forcing  house. 

Firing  may  begin  about  the  first  of  March  in  the 
hot  vinery,  for  the  main  crop,  and  should  be  regulated 
to  give  about  the  same  temperature  as  in  the  forcing 
grapery  proper.  At  the  time  the  fruit  sets,  and  as  it 
ripens,  rather  more  heat  will  be  required,  in  order  that 
ventilation  may  be  given.  If  the  season  is  cold  and  wet, 
the  fire  heat  will  do  much  to  hasten  the  growth. 

KEEPING   THE   FRUIT. 

When  thoroughly  ripened,  the  fruit  of  some  vari- 
eties will  hang  on  the  vines  for  a  long  time.  By  main- 
taining a  temperature  of  about  45  degrees,  and  securing 
a  dry  atmosphere  by  thorough  ventilation,  some  of  the 


CAEE  OP  THE  VINES  IN   WINTER.  245 

thick  skinned  sorts  can  be  kept  until  Marcli.  An  easier 
method,  however,  and  one  by  which  the  grapes  can  be 
kept  considerably  later,  is  by  cutting  off  the  bunches 
with  six  or  eight  inches  of  cane  attached,  and  placing 
the  end  of  the  shoot  in  a  bottle  of  water;  the  bottles  can 
be  arranged  in  racks,  in  a  dry,  dark  room,  where  the 
temperature  is  kept  at  40  degrees,  and  where  a  close, 
dry  atmosphere  can  be  maintained.  In  this  way  there 
will  be  no  trouble  about  keeping  them  fully  a  month 
longer  than  would  be  possible  if  kept  upon  the  vines. 

CARE   OF  THE   VINES   IN  WINTER. 

After  the  leaves  have  fallen,  the  vines  should  be 
pruned  and  prepared  for  winter.  In  the  cold  grapery, 
they  should  be  l;iid  down  close  to  the  wall,  where  they 
may  be  covered  with  sand  or  loam,  or  wrapped  in  mats. 
During  bright  days  the  house  should  be  ventilated.  If 
proper  care  is  given  to  ventilation  during  the  day,  the 
hot  vinery  can  be  used  for  growing  crops  during  the 
winter  that  need  45  degrees  as  a  maximum  temperature. 
The  vines  can  be  laid  close  to  the  wall  and  shut  away 
from  the  interior  of  the  house,  by  means  of  wooden 
shutters.  Before  they  are  taken  out,  if  the  interior  of 
the  house  is  sprayed  with  a  solution  of  sixty  grains  of 
corrosive  sublimate,  or  of  copper  sulphate,  to  one  gallon 
of  water,  the  spores  and  germs  of  the  various  diseases 
of  the  vine  will  be  destroyed.  It  is  also  well  to  annually 
whitewash  all  of  the  brick  and  stone  walls. 

PROPAGATION. 

Having  obtained  a  stock  of  plants,  it  is  frequently 
desirable  to  increase  them,  which  can  readily  be  done, 
either  from  eyes  or  short  cuttings.  Strong,  well-ripened 
shoots,  with  large  but  firm  buds,  should  be  selected 
when  the  vines  are  pruned,  and  for  eye  cuttings  (Fig. 
84)  make  them  into  pieces  one  and  one-half  inches  long, 
with  a  bud  in  the  center,  and  after  removin";  a  shaving 


246  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMEISlT. 

of  wood  from  the  underside,  place  them  in  the  cutting 
boxes.  These  should  be  about  three  inches  deep  and 
have  about  two  inches  of  rich  potting  soil  in  the  bottom. 
Upon  this  place  the  cuttings,  with  the  eyes  up,  and 
scatter  on  sand  until  tlie  eyes  have  been  covered  about 
half  an  inch.     Keep  them  moderately  cool  until  Jan- 


FIG.  84.     KYE  CUTTING  OF 
GKAPE. 

uary,  when  they  should  be  given  bottom  heat  in  a  cool 
propagating  house.  Care  should  be  given  in  watering  not 
to  saturate  the  soil;  and  to  lessen  the  amount  of  evapo- 
ration it  may  be  well  to  cover  the  sand  with  a  thin  layer 
of  sifted  sphagnum  as  a  mulch. 

The  short  cuttings  (Fig.  85)  are  made  in  much  the 
same  way,  excejjt  that  the  stem  is  cut  ofE  just  above  the 
bud  and  about  an  inch  and  one-half  below  it,  making  a 
cutting  about  two  inches  long.  After  removing  a  shav- 
ing of  wood  from  the  lower  end,  they  are  inserted  verti- 
cally in  the  cutting  boxes,  which  should  contain 
three  inches  of  sharp  sand.  As  soon  as  roots  have 
formed,  the  cuttings  should  be  potted  off  and  plunged 
in  a  mild  bottom  heat.  By  repotting  as  needed,  plants 
can  be  gfown  to  a  hight  of  two  and  one-half  feet  by  the 
middle  of  June,  when,  if  carefully  planted  in  the  bord^^r, 
they  will  do  equally  as  well  as  yearling  plants.  If  not 
needed  as  permanent  jilants,  they  will  be  excellent  for 
use  as  pot  plants.     Layering  may  also  be  resorted  to. 

POT   PLANTS. 

If  well  grown,  tlie  plants  will  be  large  enongh  to 
furnish  fruit  tiie  following  year,  but,  as  a  rule,  they  are 
cut  back,  repotted  and  grown  for  the  second  year  before 
they  are  allowed  to  fruit.  When  at  a  fruiting  size,  they 
should  be  cut  Ijack  to  eight  or  ten  bu(Js  and  plunged  iu 


POT  PLAINTS.  247 

a  narrow,  low  house,  about  the  time  the  permanent  vines 
are  started.  The  vines  may  be  trained  to  wire  trellises, 
,or  three  or  four  stakes  may  be  placed  in  a  pot  around 
the  edges,  and  the  vine  arranged  in  a  spiral  form  around 
them.  The  pots  should  be  mulched  with  half-decom- 
posed manure,  and  after  the  fruit  has  set,  liquid  manure 
should  be  used  freely.  The  same  general  rules  as  to 
pinching,  watering,  ventilating,  etc.,  apply  here,  as 
with  vines  permanently  planted. 

If  one  does  not  have  the  means  to  erect  a  span  roof, 
or  even  a  lean-to  grapery  of  the  usual  width,  very  good 
results  can  be  obtained  against  the  south  side  of  a  wall 
or  fence,  by  erecting  a  wall  about  two  feet  high  and 
three  feet  from  the  back  wall,  upon  which  common  hot- 
bed sash  is  placed  upon  end  and  leaning  against  the 
back  wall.  If  a  wooden  framework  eighteen  inches 
wide  is  built  out  from  the  back  wall  to  receive  the  sash, 
i^  will  increase  the  size  of  the  house  and  provide  for 
"'■'  p  ventilation. 

The  most  troublesome  insect  in  the  grapery  is  the 
red  spider,  which  can  be  kept  in  check  by  syringing. 
\i  either  of  the  mildews  appear  in  a  grapery,  an  appli- 
ih  on  of  the  copper  sulphate  solution,  or  ammoniated 
co'^jper  carbonate,  should  be  used  (See  Chai^ter  on  Insects 
and  Diseases),  or,  if  it  is  the  powdery  form,  evaporated 
sulphur  will  be  found  effectual. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

STEAWBERKY  GROAVING   UNDER  GLASS. 

When  properly  handled,  few  greenhouse  crops  will 
afford  more  interest  and  j)leasure  to  the  amateur,  or 
more  profit  to  the  commercial  grower,  than  the  straw- 
berry when  grown  as  a  winter  croj)  under  glass.  The 
requirements  are  a  well-lighted  house,  in  which  a  tem- 
perature of  65  degrees  can  be  maintained  during  Feb- 
ruary and  March,  and  where  the  plants  can  be  placed 
near  the  glass. 

The  plants  should  be  obtained  from  plantations  set 
early  in  the  spring  previou,',,  or  in  July  or  August  of  the 
year  before  and  not  allowed  to  fruit,  by  layeiing  the  first 
runners  that  form  in  July,  in  two  and  one-half  or  three- 
inch  pots  that  have  been  plunged  near  them.  Unless 
the  soil  is  a  rich,  sandy  loam,  the  pots  should  be  filled 
with  good  compost.  In  about  two  weeks  the  pots  Avill 
be  occupied  by  roots,  and  the  plants  should  then  be 
repotted  into  four-inch  pots  and  placed  in  a  cold  frame. 
Here  they  should  be  kept  during  the  fall,  requiring 
careful  attention  in  watering,  and  being  repotted  to  five- 
inch  and  again  to  six-inch  pots,  which  should  be  the  fruit- 
ing size,  as  soon  as  the  smaller  si?es  have  be(3ome  filled  with 
roots.  If,  at  any  time,  leaf  blight  or  any  other  fungous 
disease  appears  upon  them,  the  plants  should  be  sprayed 
with  Bordeaux  mixture. 

In  order  to  force  successfully,  the  plants  must  form 

strong  crowns  and  harden  them  before  winter  comes  on. 

As  freezing  weather  approaches,   the  frames  should  be 

covered  with  glass,  to  prevent  the  breaking  of  the  pots 

248 


STBAWBERKY  GKOWIIfG   UNDER  GLASS.  249 


250 


GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


by  frost.  Phmging  the  pots  in  sand  or  coal  ashes  will 
also  be  desirable  un  the  same  account.  The  plants 
should  be  kept  iu  the  frame  until  about  the  first  of  Jan- 
uary, after  which  short  rest  they  can  be  brought  into 
heat.  If  a  succession  is  desired,  only  a  part  of  the 
plants  should  be  started  at  first  and  these  should  be 
placed  in  a  room  where  a  temperature  of  40  to  45  degrees 
can  be  maintained  at  night,  with  thorough  ventilation 
during  the  day.  All  dead  and  diseased  leaves  should 
be  removed  and  the  plants  sprayed  with  a  one  to  one 


FIG.   87.     THE   CKOP    GATHERED. 

thousand  solution  (one  ounce  to  eight  gallons  of  water) 
of  copper  sulphate,  to  destroy  all  spores  of  fungi. 
Other  lots  should  be  brought  in  at  intervals  of  two  to 
four  weeks. 

In  five  or  six  weeks  after  growth  starts,  the  plants 
will  blossom  and  they  should  then  be  transferred  to  a 
warmer  room,  or  the  temperature  must  be  raised  to 
65  or  70  degrees  at  night.  The  pollen  will  be  shed  most 
freely  in  a  warm,  dry  room  ana  these  conditions  must 


STEAWBEERY   GROWING   UNDER  GLASS.  25l 

be  secured  in  order  to  have  the  flowers  properly  ferti- 
lized. The  poUeu  will,  however,  need  to  be  transferred 
by  hand  from  the  stamens  to  the  pistils,  and  it  can  bo 
done  best  by  means  of  a  small  camel's-hair  brush,  at  the 
same  time  carrying  along  any  surplus  pollen  that  may 
be  found,  on  a  small  spoon  or  wooden  paddle.  Care 
must  be  taken  that  pollen  is  conveyed  to  every  pistil,  or 
the  fruits  will  be  irregular  in  form.  The  pollinating 
should  be  repeated  every  pleasant  morning.     As  soon  as 


jMtT-a^jj^^^^iJnB'      ^^^f^r  71 

^Rsggfff^ 

" 

■  '""'''MKH^^ 

^ 

hP 

FIG.  88.     FKUITINO    STRAWUKHRY    PLANTS,    CCKNELL 
KXPEKIMEN  T    STATION. 

the  fruit  has  set,  the  application  of  liquid  manure  should 
commence,  and  should  be  repeated  two  or  three  times  a 
week  until  the  fruits  begin  to  color. 

If  more  than  eight  or  ten  fruits  set  upon  a  plant, 
the  smaller  and  imperfect  ones  should  be  removed.  The 
plants  should  never  be  allowed  to  suffer  for  want  of 
water,  and  occasionally  on  warm,  bright  mornings  the 
foliage  should  be  syringed,  but  this  is  not  advisable 
while  the  plants  are  in  blossom,  or  after  the  fruit  begins 


253  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

to  color.  In  order  to  keep  the  fruit  from  the  damp  soil, 
where  it  will  be  likely  to  rot,  some  support  must  be  pro- 
vided. Mr.  Hunn,  of  the  Cornell  Experiment  Station, 
who  has  been  quite  successful  in  forcing  strawberries,  is 
well  ])lcased  with  cork  chips,  and  with  fine  netting 
placed  upon  the  pots,  as  seen  in  Fig.  86.  In  about  a 
month  from  the  time  the  fruit  sets,  the  berries  will  be- 
gin to  ripen,  and  in  ten  days  to  two  weeks  the  plants 
may  be  tlirown  out  and  i*eplaced  with  otliers,  wliich  will 
need  the  same  care,  except  that  less  attention  need  be 
paid  to  pollinating  the  flowers.  The  red  spider  and  aphis 
may  be  troublesome,  unless  proper  remedies  are  used. 

The  variety  selected  will  have  much  to  do  with  the 
results  secured.  For  the  best  success,  it  should  be  an 
early  sort,  with  rather  short  petioles  and  small  leaves, 
that  is  little  subject  to  disease.  Unless  other  perfect 
flowering  plants  are  grown  to  provide  pollen  for  them, 
pistillate  sorts  should  not  be  selected,  although  other- 
wise many  of  the  imperfect-flowered  varieties  are  well 
adapted  for  forcing.  The  Beder  Wood,  a  perfect-flow- 
ered variety,  is  one  of  the  best,  its  principal  fault  being 
the  light  color  of  tlie  fruit.  Among  the  later  sorts 
Sliarpless  and  Parker  Earle  are  well  adapted  for  forcing. 
Although  the  results  will  be  less  satisfactory,  fruit  may 
be  obtained  four  or  five  weeks  earlier,  by  shortening  the 
period  of  rest. 

In  a  good  market,  well-grown  fruit  (Fig.  87)  will 
bring  from  two  to  four  dollars  per  quart  in  February, 
and  not  over  a  dozen  plants,  which  in  six-inch  pots  will 
not  occupy  more  than  three  or  four  square  feet,  will  be 
required  to  furnish  them,  and  they  will  not  occupy  the 
houses  more  tlian  ten  or  twelve  weeks.  There  is  also  a 
call  for  the  plants,  while  in  fruit,  at  prices  that  will  be 
quite  remunerative.  A  well-grown  plant  with  a  crop  of 
fine  fruit,  as  seen  in  Fig.  88,  is  a  handsome  ornament 
for  a  table. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

FEUIT  TEEES  UNDER  GLASS. 

In  many  sections  of  the  country  the  climate  is  not 
adapted  to  the  growing  of  such  fruits  as  tlie  peach,  apri- 
cot and  nectarine  in  tlie  open  air,  and  although  these 
fruits  can  generally  he  obtained  in  the  market  in  their 
season,  as  a  rule  the  varieties  are  not  of  the  best  quality 
from  the  fact  that  the  most  desirable  varieties,  so  far  as 
quality  is  concerned,  are  generally  lacking  in  hai-diness 
and  are  consequently  unproductive  when  grown  in  the 
open  air.  On  this  account  there  seems  to  be  a  growing 
interest  in  orchard  houses  and  in  the  forcing  of  fruit 
under  glass. 

While  a  cheap  lean-to  house  built  against  a  wall 
will  give  good  results,  the  form  best  adapted  to  the  pur- 
pose is  the  even-span.  If  the  expense  can  be  afforded, 
the  curvilinear  roof  is  desirable,  as  it  gives  more  room 
for  the  growth  of  the  trees.  While  good  results  can  be 
obtained  without  fire  heat,  it  will  be  necessary  if  the 
fruit  is  to  be  forced,  and  may  save  a  crop  if  the  weather 
is  cold  or  wet  at  the  time  the  trees  are  in  blossom,  or 
while  the  fruit  is  setting,  as  a  check  at  that  time  may 
prevent  the  setting  of  the  fruit.  Ample  ventilation 
should  be  provided  at  the  ridge  and  will  be  desirable  in 
the  side  walls,  that  a  good  circulation  of  air  may  be 
procured. 

The  trees  may  be  grown  either  in  pots  or  tubs,  or 

planted  out  in  borders  in  the  house.      The  former  is 

desirable  from  the  fact  that  the  trees  being  portable  can 

be  placed  close  together  during  the  winter,  and  the  con- 

253 


254 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


ditions  can  be  controlled  better,  but  on  the  other  hand 
there  is  the  disadvantage  of  requiring  much  more  fre- 
quent attention 
regarding  the  wa- 
tering of  the 
trees,  particularly 
during  the  summer 
months. 

For  the  pear, 
a  quince  stock  is 
desirable,  and  the 
Maiialeb  is  prefer- 
red for  the  cherry, 
butjieach  seedlings 
can  be  used  as 
stocks  for  the 
peach,  nectarine 
and  apricot,  al- 
though the  myrob- 
olan  plum  stock 
can  be  used  for 
them  as  well  as  for 
the  plum. 

For  pot  cul- 
ture, trees  of  pear, 
plum  or  cherry  will 
require  from  ten-to 
fourteen-inch  pots 
when  three  or  four 
years  old,  and  as 
they  increase  in 
size  can  be  shifted 
to  tubs.  The  peach 
and  nectarine  trees 
will  require  somewhat  larger  sizes.  The  soil  for  the 
plum  and  pear  trees  should  have  a  liberal  admixture  of 


89.       PEAK  LfHISE   HOXNE 
A    POT. 


FRUIT  TREES   U2SDER   GLASS. 


255 


^i    ^ 


clay^  wliile  the  cherry  and  peach  trees  will  do  best  in  a 
sandy  loam  soil.  When  first  potted,  about  one  part  of 
decomposed  manure  to  five  parts  of  soil  will  be  sufiicient, 
but  for  repotting-  and  top-dressing  the  amount  of  manure 
can  be  doubled.  It  will  also  be  well  to  add  for  each 
bushel  of  soil 
four-inch  pot  each 
of  ground  bone 
and  wood  ashes. 
The  repotting 
should  be  done 
after  the  growth 
has  ripened  in  the 
fall,  but  if  the  roots 
have  not  become 
matted  it  will  not 
be  necessary  each 
year,  as  it  will  often 
suffice  if  the  sur- 
face soil  is  removed 
and  a  top-dressing 
added. 

When  the  buds 
begin  to  swell  in 
the  spring,  the  tr^os 
should  be  syringed 
on  bright  morn- 
ings, but  they 
should  be  Kept 
rather    close    and 


FIG.  90.  EARLY  TRANSPARENT  GAGE  FRUIT- 
ING IN  A  POT. 


dry  while  they  are 

in  blossom,   and 

particular    care    should    be    taken    that  they  are   not 

checked  in  their  g'-ovvth  from  any  cause  until  after  the 

fruit   has   begun    to  swell.      After  this  time  the  trees 

should  be  syringed  in  the  morning  and  again  in  the  after- 


356  GEEENHOUSE  MANAGEMEiTT. 

iioou  of  'oright  days.  After  the  seeds  begin  to  form  it 
will  be  well  to  either  tup-dress  the  jjliiuts  with  liorse  or 
sheep  manure  or  to  apply  liquid  manure. 

If  the  crop  set  is  a  large  one,  the  surplus  fruits 
should  be  removed.  The  distance  at  which  they  should 
be  left  will  depend  both  on  the  growth  of  the  plant  and 
the  number  of  fruits  upon  it,  but  except  for  the  cherry 
and  plum  they  should  not  ho  less  than  six  inches  ajiart, 
and  if  well  distributed  a  single  fruit  upon  a  shoot  or 
spur  will  be  ample. 

After  the  crop  has  been  gathered  and  the  end  of  the 
growing  season  approaches,  water  should  be  gradually 
withheld  and  all  the  ventilation  possible  should  be  given. 
This  will  aid  the  trees  in  ripening  their  growths  and  in 
securing  firm  fruit  buds  that  will  be  less  likely  to  be 
affected  by  changes  of  temperature  during  the  winter, 
than  when  they  are  loose  and  open.  If  in  pots  it  is  often 
well  to  place  the  trees  outside  for  a  few  weeks  in  the 
fall,  but  they  should  be  returned  to  the  houses  before 
severe  freezing  weather  comes.  During  the  winter  they 
may  be  packed  closely  together  and  the  space  that  they 
occujDied  in  the  summer  can  then  be  used  for  some  other 
crops.  During  the  w'inter  the  trees  should  be  pruned. 
This  will  consist  in  cutting  the  new  growth  back  about 
three-fourths  and  the  thinning  out  of  surplus  shoots.  In 
the  case  of  the  peach  and  nectaiine,  especially,  this  should 
be  thoroughly  done.  After  they  have  been  lii'^^ncd,  it 
will  be  well  to  spray  the  trees  thoroughly  with  a  stnmg 
solution  of  cojiper  sulphate,  and  just  before  the  buds 
start  Bordeaux  mixture  can  be  used  to  advantage.  For 
aphides  and  other  insects  that  may  apjjear,  the  usual 
remedies  should  be  used. 

While  the  labor  of  watering  can  be  lessened  by 
plunging  the  pots  to  their  rim,  during  the  summer,  in  a 
light  litter  of  some  kind,  care  must  be  taken  that  the 
roots  are  kept  in  the  pots,  and  it  will  be  desirable  to  have 


FRUIT  TREES   UNDER  GLASS.  257 

them  rest  upon  a  couple  of  bricks  or  some  similar  sup- 
ports. While  the  pear,  cherry  and  plum  can  be  grown 
best  in  pots,  the  peach  and  nectarine  should  either  be 
placed  in  large  boxes,  or  planted  out  in  a  border.  This 
should  be  prepared  to  the  depth  of  two  feet  and  its  sur- 
face will  need  to  be  top-dressed  once  or  twice  each  year. 
If  in  lean-to,  or  three-quarter  span,  houses  the  trees  may 
be  trained  upon  the  north  wall,  or  on  trellises  just  beneath 
the  glass  if  even-span,  but  as  a  rule  the  pyramidal  form  of 
tree  will  be  jireferable. 

During  the  summer,  after  all  danger  of  frost  is  over, 
no  attention  need  be  paid  to  ventilating  the  houses,  the 
full  air  being  left  on,  except  when  cold,  chilly  winds  pre- 
vail. In  the  wintei*,  after  the  trees  have  ripened,  the 
sash  should  be  handled  with  the  idea  of  protecting  the 
trees  from  extremes  of  temperature,  ventilation  being 
desirable  on  warm  or  bright  days  to  prevent  the  swelling 
of  the  buds. 

In  selecting  varieties  of  peach  for  forcing,  only 
those  of  high  quality  should  be  taken.  Early  Eivers, 
George  IV,  Mountain  Eose,  Grosse  Mignonne,  Old- 
mixon,  Early  and  Late  Crawford,  Foster  and  Elberta 
being  among  the  best  sorts  for  the  purpose.  Any  of  the 
better  varieties  of  apricots  and  nectarines  can  be  used, 
and  any  of  the  pears  that  succeed  on  dwarf  stocks,  such 
as  Souvenir  du  Congres,  Louise  Bonne  (Eig.  89), 
Angouleme  and  Anjou,  will  give  satisfaction.  Among 
the  plums  the  choice  should  be  made  from  among  the 
Gage  (Fig.  90)  varieties  and  such  other  sorts  as  Dia- 
mond, Czar,  Coe's  Golden  Drop,  Grand  Duke  and 
Monarch, 


17 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

MAITAQEMENT   OP  HOUSE  PLANTS. 

If  one  does  not  have  even  the  simj)le  form  of 
veranda  conservatory  described  in  Greenhouse  Construc- 
tion, fairly  good  success  can  be  obtained  with  a  few  house 
plants,  with  either  a  southern  or  western  exposure.  For 
most  flowering  plants  the  windows  opening  to  the  south 
are  preferable,  even  to  those  with  a  western  outlook,  as, 
during  the  short  days  of  winter,  the  plants  in  the  latter 
will  have  but  little  sun,  and  tlien  it  will  be  too  low  down 
near  the  horizon.  Eor  a  few  plants,  the  windows  look- 
ing to  the  east  may  be  used,  and  for  ferns  and  similar 
shade-loving  soi'ts  they  are  desirable.  While  the  north 
windows  may  be  used  for  some  of  that  class  of  j)lants,  it 
is  not  a  desirable  exposure. 

In  case  a  bay-window  upon  the  south  side  of  the 
living  room  can  be  obtained  for  flowers  (Fig.  91),  very 
good  results  can  be  secured.  It  should  be  separated  from 
the  room  by  glass  doors,  that  can  be  thrown  open  or 
closed,  at  pleasure,  but  in  case  they  are  not  to  be  had, 
much  of  the  labor  of  keeping  the  plants  in  good  con- 
dition can  be  saved  if  curtains  are  provided,  to  be  used 
when  sweeping.  In  addition  to  hooks  for  hanging  bas- 
kets and  bracket  stands  for  pot  plants,  it  will  be  well  to 
have  a  shelf,  from  one  to  two  feet  in  width,  according  to 
dimension  of  the  window,  u})on  which  to  arrange  the 
smaller  plants.  This  should  have  side  pieces  one  to  two 
inches  high,  and  a  zinc  lining.  The  bottom  could  then 
be  covered  with  coarse  gravel  or  fine  pebbles,  and  a  much 
better  growth  could  be  secured,  as  the  plants  in  small 
258 


MANAGEMENT   OF   UOUSE    PLANTS.  259 

pots  would  then  be  less  likely  to  dry  out.  A  simple  prop- 
agating bed  can  be  veiy  easily  arranged  by  supplying 
the  necessary  clean  sand,  and  a  lamp  to  furnish  bottom 
heat,  unless  heating  pipes  run  along  under  the  shelf, 
when  they  would  only  need  to  be  boxed  in.  In  case  the 
lamp  is  used,  it  will  be  necessary  to  provide  soma  sort  of 
a  shield  to  prevent  it  from  setting  fire  to  tne  wooden 
shelf.  A  shallow  galvanized  iron  pan  filled  with  plaster, 
suspended  aboye  the  lamp  and  close  to  the  bottom  of  the 
shelf,  will  answer  the  purpose. 

If  an  ordinary  window  is  to  be  used,  it  will  be  well 
to  have  a  similar  shelf,  at  the  hight  of  the  window  sill. 
If  made  two  or  three  feet  longer  than  the  window  is 
wide,  it  will  hold  a  considerable  number  of  plants.  For 
the  bay  window  and  the  common  window  as  well,  if  the 
size  of  the  room  admits  of  it,  a  i^lant  stand  with  shelves 
in  the  form  of  stairs,  or  with  a  flat  top,  can  be  used  to 
good  advantage  to  display  the  larger  plants. 

By  having  it  arranged  with  casters,  if  the  plants 
that  require  a  high  temperature  are  kept  upon  it,  on 
cold  nights  it  will  be  an  easy  matter  to  roll  it  back  away 
from  the  window  and  thus  save  the  tender  plants  from 
becoming  chilled. 

SOIL   FOR  AND   CARE   OF   HOUSE   PLANTS. 

In  a  general  way,  the  directions  given  for  green- 
house plants  will  apply  to  those  grown  in  the  dwelling. 
In  the  village  or  city,  where  it  is  difficult  to  obtain  a  suit- 
able compost,  the  admixture  of  street  sweepings  with 
xresh  garden  loam  will  answer  very  well,  although,  if 
only  a  small  amount  is  needed,  it  will  be  better  to  obtain 
some  prepared  compost  from  a  florist.  Unless  new  pots 
are  used,  they  should  be  well  soaked  and  scrubbed,  to 
remove  the  mold  that  usually  forms  on  them,  and  thus 
open  the  pores.  A  failure  often  results  from  using  too 
large  pots,  as  a  small  plant  growing  in  a  large  quantity 


260 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


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POTTlJStU   AND    REPOTTIKG.  261 

of  soil  will  not  remove  much  of  the  water  by  trans- 
piration, so  that,  unless  great  care  is  taken  in  watering, 
the  soil  will  remain  saturated  most  of  the  time  and,  the 
air  being  thus  kept  out,  will  become  sour,  and  as  a  result 
only  a  weak,  unhealthy  growth  can  be  secured.  When  a 
plant  is  found  to  be  in  this  condition,  it  should  be  taken 
out,  as  much  of  the  soil  shaken  off  as  is  possible  without 
seriously  injuring  the  roots,  and  repotted  in  rich  sandy 
compost,  using  a  pot  as  small  as  Avill  take  in  the  roots 
without  cramping  them. 

For  the  starting  of  cuttings,  the  saucer  system,  or 
the  use  of  water  alone,  will  generally  be  found  better 
than  the  sand  cutting-pan,  as,  if  the  latter  is  used,  many 
plants  will  fail  to  root  readily  unless  bottom  heat  is  used. 

POTTING    AND    REPOTTING. 

While  the  florist  uses  pots  not  over  two  inches  in 
diameter  for  his  cuttings  and  his  seedlings,  a  slightly 
larger  size  will  be  preferable  for  house  plants,  unless  they 
are  grown  in  a  conservatory,  as  tliey  will  be  less  likely  to 
be  injured  from  drying  out. 

In  potting  off  seedjings,  or  rooted  cuttings,  the  jiot 
is  loosely  filled  Avith  sifted  soil,  and  a  hole  made  in  the 
center  with  the  finger,  in  which  the  young  plant  is 
placed.  The  soil  should  then  be  pressed  firmly  into 
place  and  thoroughly  watei'ed.  As  soon  as  the  roots 
begin  to  form  a  mat  around  the  sides  of  the  pot,  they 
should  be  transferred  to  larger  ones,  using  rich  but  light 
soil,  in  which  a  liberal  amount  of  ground  bone  will  be  of 
value.  To  remove  the  plants  from  the  pots,~invert  them 
in  the  palm  of  the  hand,  so  that  the  stems  of  the  plant 
will  be  between  the  second  and  third  fingers,  the  pot 
being  held  by  the  thumb  and  fore-finger  of  the  same 
hand.  The  edge  of  the  pot  can  then  be  thumped  against 
the  table,  and  the  plant  will  slip  out.  It  is  always  well 
before  repotting  to  remove  from  one-fourth  to  one-half 


i>G3  GREEJ^HOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

inch  of  the  surface  soil,  thus  disposing  of  any  weeds  or 
slime  that  may  be  upon  it.  Then  place  from  one-half 
inch  to  one  inch  of  compost  in  the  bottom  of  a  pot,  put 
in  the  plant,  being  careful  to  have  it  in  the  center,  and 
add  enough  soil  to  fill  the  space  between  the  pot  and  the 
ball  of  earth  and  furnish  a  slight  covering  over  the  sur- 
face.. When  all  is  completed  the  level  of  the  soil  should 
be  from  one-half  inch  to  one  inch  below  the  edge  of  the 
pots.  For  sizes  of  pots  up  to  four  inches,  a  space  of  <mo- 
half  inch  will  answer  to  hold  the  necessary  water  and 
secure  the  proper  moistening  of  the  soil,  but  above  that 
one  inch  is  preferable.  Notice  should  be  taken  that  the 
hole  in  the  bottom  of  the  pot  is  not  clogged.  This  will 
provide  the  necessary  drainage,  in  pots  four  inches  in 
diameter  or  less,  but  for  the  larger  sizes  from  one  to  two 
inches  of  pieces  of  broken  pots  should  be  placed  in  the 
bottom,  and  covered  with  a  little  sphagnum,  or  excelsior, 
to  keep  the  soil  from  washing  down  and  filling  the 
spaces.  Bits  of  charcoal  or  excelsior  can  be  used  instead 
of  crocks.  When  large  plants  are  repotted,  a  small  ram- 
mer should  be  used  to  pack  the  soil  well  around  the  ball 

TOP-DRESSING. 

In  some  cases,  a  plant  does  not  make  a  satisfactor 
growth,  from  lack  of  sufficient  plant  food.  If  the  pol 
is  of  the  proper  size  and  the  roots  have  not  become  pot- 
bound,  it  will  not  be  desirable  to  repot  it,  as  that  would 
give  a  needless  check  to  the  plant.  Good  results  can 
generally  be  obtained  if  the  surface  soil  is  scraped  away, 
down  to  the  roots,  and  replaced  with  very  rich  soil  con- 
tainirg  25  per  cent  of  ground  bone. 

WATER  AND   LIQUID   MANURE. 

The  rules  given  for  florists  will  apply  well  here,  but 
the  home  florist  will  need  to  take  special  pains  to  avoid 
both   excessive  and  too    little    watering.     Wlieu    the 


MANAGEMEISTT    OF    HOUSE    PLANTS.  263 

plants  have  proper  drainage,  wo  should  apply  water  until 
it  runs  through  the  pots  and  then  wait  until  we  can  see, 
from  the  looks,  feel  or  ring  of  the  pot,  that  the  snjiply 
has  been  exhausted  and  more  water  is  needed. 

As  a  rule,  if  the  watering  has  not  been  too  long 
delayed,  when  a  sijace  of  one  inch  has  been  provided  for 
the  purpose,  filling  the  pots  to  the  brim  will  suffice.  Too 
frequent  watering  is  often  a  cause  of  faihire  with  house 
plants,  as  the  addition  of  a  little  water,  at  short  inter- 
vals, wets  the  surface  soil,  and,  keeping  the  air  out, 
causes  it  to  become  sour,  while  it  does  not  penetrate  to 
the  roots,  where  only  it  is  of  use  to  the  plants.  The 
chill  should  at  least  be  taken  off  from  the  water,  and  if 
it  is  warmed  to  90  or  100  degrees,  all  the  better. 

Liquid  fertilizer  made  from  stable  manure  will  not 
be  desirable  in  the  house,  but  the  soluble  mineral  fer- 
tilizers can  be  used,  or  ammonia  water  at  the  rate  of  a 
teaspoonful  to  a  gallon  of  water  used  once  a  week  will 
promote  the  growth  and  give  a  good  color  to  the 
foliage. 

INSECTS   AND    DISEASES. 

While  house  plants  are  troubled  with  about  the  same 
pests  as  those  of  the  greenhouse,  as  the  conditions  are 
even  more  unnatural,  some  of  them  are  still  more 
troublesome.  As  a  rule,  the  air  in  a  dwelling  is  dry  and 
the  conditions  are  particularly  inviting  to  the  red 
spider.  To  lessen  the  dryness,  provision  should  be  made 
in  some  way  for  the  evaporation  of  water  in  the  room  and 
for  the  syringing  of  the  foliage  upon  bright  days.  Some 
of  the  small  hand  sprinklers  should  at  any  rate  be  used. 
The  thick-leaved  plants  will  be  benefited  if  they  are 
occasionally  sponged  off  with  water  containing  whale-oil 
soap. 

The  same  remedies  as  in  the  greenhouse  will  be 
efficacious  here,  but  some  of  them,  as  tobacco  smoke,  can- 


2G4:  GREENHOUSE    MANAGEMENT. 

not  be  used  in  tlie  dwelling.  Tobacco  tea  can,  however, 
be  employed  for  the  green  fly,  either  by  spraying  it  over 
the  plants  or  by  dii)ping  the  stems  into  it.  Pyi'ethrum, 
both  as  a  powder  and  in  water,  and  kerosene  emulsion 
will  be  found  invaluable  remedies. 

In  addition  to  syringing  and  washing  the  foliage, 
much  can  be  done  to  keep  the  plants  healthy,  if  a  little 
ventilation  can  be  given  on  pleasant  days.  While  plants 
do  not  like  drafts  of  cold  air,  they  are  benefited  if  afresh 
suj)ply  is  frequently  provided. 

From  the  fact  that  the  air  in  the  living  rooms  is 
likely  to  be  dry,  the  kitchen,  with  an  atmosphere,  during 
most  of  the  day,  charged  with  moisture,  will  be  found 
best  suited  to  plants,  particularly  while  they  are  small. 
The  fact  that  there  is  more  direct  and  more  frequent 
communication  with  the  outer  air  from  the  kitchen  than 
from  the  principal  living  rooms,  thus  affording  ventila- 
tion and  the  access  of  fresh  air,  is  another  reason  why 
plants  grown  in  the  kitchen  of  the  cottage  generally  thrive 
better  than  in  a  bay  window  of  the  mansion. 

One  of  the  things  that  is  sure  to  injure  plants  is  coal 
gas,  and  whenever  coal  is  used  as  fuel,  whether  in  a  fur- 
nace or  stove,  every  precaution  should  be  taken  that  it 
does  not  escape  into  the  rooms  and  thus  injure  the 
plants,  as  well  as  the  human  occupants. 

THE   TEMPERATURE   FOR    HOUSE    PLANTS. 

The  temperature  which  plants  require  in  the  dwell- 
ing is  of  course  about  the  same  as  has  been  given  for  the 
greenhouse,  but  the  growth,  as  a  rule,  is  less  soft  and 
watery  than  in  those  grown  in  glass  houses  and  they  will 
generally  be  uninjured  if  the  temperature  drops  a  few 
degrees  lower  than  the  point  where  injury  would  ensue 
in  the  greenhouse.  On  cold  nights,  when  there  is  liabil- 
ity that  the  tem]iera(ure  will  fall  l)elow  iho  danger  point,  it 
is  well  to  spread  newspapers  in  the  window  and  draw  the 


MANAGEMENT  OF   HOUSE   PLANTS.  265 

shades  so  as  to  prevent  as  much  as  possible  the  loss  of 
heat.  The  plants  themselves  should  he  covered  with 
papers,  or,  if  possible,  should  be  removed  from  close 
proximity  to  the  windows.  If  placed  in  the  center  of 
the  room,  preferably  upon  tables,  or  at  least  raised  well 
above  the  floor,  they  will  often  escape  injury,  while  sim- 
ilar plants  remaining  in  the  window  would  be  frosted 
and  perha^xs  killed  by  cold. 

As  a  I'ule,  plants  do  best  at  a  temperature  ten  or 
fifteen  degrees  colder  than  they  need  during  the  day,  and 
most  of  the  species  commonly  used  as  house  plants  do 
not  need  over  50  or  55  degrees  at  night  and  will  not 
suffer  if  the  temperature  falls  as  low  as  40  degrees, 
although  if  such  a  low  temperature  be  continued  for  sev- 
eral days  it  will  check  the  growth  of  most  plants.  In 
case  plants  have  been  frozen  they  should  be  slowly 
thawed  out.  While  it  will  perhaps  be  impossible  to  save 
the  foliage  of  tender  tropical  plants,  the  plants  them- 
selves, as  well  as  the  foliage  of  the  hardier  ones,  can  often 
be  saved.  They  should  be  removed  from  the  direct  rays 
of  the  sun  and  kept  at  a  temperature  of  35  to  40  degrees 
until  they  have  thawed,  when  it  may  be  gradually  raised. 
Cold  wnter  can  also  be  used  to  advantage  in  thawing 
them  out,  but  the  temperature  should  be  kept  as  low  as 
35  degrees  so  long  as  frost  remains  in  the  plant.  Water 
used  at  50  to  60  degrees  will  generally  do  more  harm 
than  to  allow  the  plants  to  thaw  out  of  themselves. 

THE   SELECTION"   OF   PLANTS. 

When  plfints  are  purchased  from  a  florist,  pains 
should  be  taken  that  they  are  in  a  suitable  condition  to 
give  good  results  in  the  house.  As  a  rule,  it  will  be  by 
far  best  to  take  young  and  vigorous  plants,  that  have 
been  in  no  way  stunted  in  their  growth,  but  by  all  means 
we  should  avoid  using  thoce  grown  at  a  high  tempera- 
ture and  in  a  close  atmosphere,  as  they  will  almost  inva- 


266  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

riably  be  weak  and  spindling,  and  when  removed  to  the 
dryer  air  of  the  dwelling  they  will  be  sure  to  disaji- 
point  one. 

We  should  also  avoid  those  that  have  been  forced  by 
the  florist  for  the  production  of  flowers,  as  they  have 
been  grown  under  unnatural  conditions,  and  even  though 
they  have  been  given  a  period  of  rest,  they  are  not  likely 
to  be  satisfactory. 

Much  can  be  told  regarding  the  fitness  of  a  plant 
for  growing  in  the  house,  by  its  structure  and  general 
appearance,  and,  as  a  rule,  i:)lants  with  thick  leaves  and 
a  small  glossy  surface  are  but  little  affected  by  a  dry 
temperature  and  can  be  readily  washed,  while  plants 
with  small  thin  leaves  quickly  dry  up  if  neglected  in  any 
degree,  and  particularly  if  they  have  a  rough  hairy  sur- 
face they  hold  the  dust  and  cannot  be  readily  washed. 

Deciduous  plants,  particularly  those  that  drop  their 
leaves  during  the  winter,  should  not  be  selected,  as  they 
will  show  only  bare  stems  at  the  very  time  they  should 
be  in  the  best  condition.  While  all  jilants  should  have 
a  period  of  rest  at  some  time  during  the  year,  there  are 
long  lists  to  select  from  that  rest  during  the  summer,  and 
these  should  always  be  chosen. 

Unless  one  is  so  situated  that  a  minimum  tempera- 
ture of  60  degrees  can  be  secured,  the  use  of  the  tropical 
plants  that  need  65  to  70  degrees  is  not  advisable,  as  a 
single  cold  night  may  greatly  injure  them.  Tl)e  selec- 
tion should  also  be  governed  by  the  outlook,  as  influenc- 
ing the  amount  of  sunlight  that  can  be  given  them. 
In  partial  shade,  such  plants  as  ferns,  primi'oses,  ivies, 
madeira  vines,  callas,  bulbs,  palms,  begonias,  Ficus 
repens  and  F.  elastica,  mahernia,  achyranthcs  and  sim- 
ilar plants  can  be  grown  with  fair  success,  if  conditions 
are  favorable.  Most  of  the  other  winter  flowering  plants 
do  best  if  given  southerly  exposure,  where  they  can  have 
full  sunlight. 


MANAGEMENT  OF  HOUSE  PLANTS.  267 

PLANTS  FOR   GROWING  IN  THE  HOUSE. 

Tlie  choice  of  plants  Avill  dejoend  somewhat  upon 
the  surroundings  and  the  conditions  under  which  they 
are  to  be  grown,  as  kinds  that  would  succeed  well  in  a 
parlor  conservatory,  or  that  would  be  appropriate  for  the 
decoration  of  a  drawing  room,  would  not  be  desirable 
and  might  be  out  of  place  in  the  kitchen  or  sitting-room 
window  of  a  cottage. 

For  the  small  window,  and  in  a  bay  window  con- 
servatory, such  well  known  plants  as  begonias,  flower- 
ing and  foliage ;  abutilons,  white,  red  and  yellow ;  cal- 
las ;  cyclamen ;  fuchsias ;  geraniums,  zonal,  scented 
and  ivy ;  heliotrope,  lantanas  and  oleanders,  can 
always  be  used  to  advantage.  In  addition,  we  can  add, 
for  fall  and  early  winter  flowering,  a  sufficient  number 
of  chrysanthemums  to  afford  a  variety  of  colors,  and  in 
the  spring  the  Chinese  primrose,  cinerarias  and  calceo- 
larias, with  their  bright  flowers,  are  always  attractive. 
The  azaleas  do  not  thrive  well  during  the  winter  in  a 
dwelling,  but  when  in  bloom  in  the  spring  will  be  very 
ornamental  if  they  can  be  added.  Eupatoriums,  ste- 
vias  and  ageratums  are  also  excellent  house  plants. 

Of  the  flowering  bulbs,  the  hyacinth,  tulip,  cro- 
cus, narcissus,  scilla,  and  lily  of  the  valley,  are  most 
commonly  grown  and  with  but  little  attention  add  much 
to  the  effect.  For  house  use,  the  hyacinth  may  be 
grown  in  water  in  hyacinth  glasses.  The  oxalis,  in 
some  of  its  varieties,  such  as  Boiuiei,  cernua  lutea,  or  ver- 
sicolor, is  an  excellent  pot  plant,  while  for  basket  pur- 
poses it  has  few  equals. 

The  lilies  are  also  very  desirable  for  spring  and  sum- 
mer blooming.  Lilium  candidum  and  L.  Harrisii 
flower  in  March  and  April,  or  with  Lilium  elegans,  L. 
auratum  and  L.  speciosum  album  and  ruhrum,  can  be 
brought  into  flower  during  the  summer  months. 

In  addition  to  the  above  list,  there  are  many  flowers 


2G8  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

that  are  readily  grown  from  seeds,  such  as  carnations, 
alyssum,  candytuft,  mignonette,  nasturtiums,  stocks, 
matricaria  (feverfew),  besides  others  used  as  bedding 
plants,  as  verbenas,  petunias,  pansies,  pyrethrum,  cen- 
taurea  and  dianthus,  that  are  also  often  used  as  house 
l)lants. 

While  carnations,  violets  and  roses  are  of  value 
for  furnishing  cut  flowers,  they  can  seldom  receive 
proper  care  in  a  dwelling  and  are  seldom  desirable  as 
house  plants,  unless  one  has  at  least  a  small  window 
conservatory  in  which  proper  conditions  can  be  given 
them. 

As  plants  for  the  decoration  of  a  parlor,  or  to  com- 
bine with  others  in  a  large  window,  the  following  are  desir- 
able, as  they  can  be  grown  successfully  with  but  little 
care :  Palms,  pandanus,  aspidistras,  rubber  trees, 
Cype7'us  alfernifolius,  anthericum,  dracaenas  and  cor- 
dylines,  araucarias  and  marantas,  besides,  in  partial 
shade,  ferns,  lycopods,  gloxinias,  tuberous  begonias, 
fancy  leaved  caladiums,  and  many  others.  As  house 
plants  among  the  palms,  we  may  note  as  among  the 
most  valuable,  Howea  {Kentia)  Belmoreana,  and  H. 
Foderiana,  Areca  lutescens,  Rhapis  humilis  and  R. 
flabelliformis,  Livistona  CJiinensis  {Latania  Borlonica), 
Ptychosperma  Cunningliamiana  {Seaforthia  eJegans), 
Cocos  Weddeliana,  Livistona  {Cory_pJia)  Anstralis,  and 
many  others. 

As  plants  for  climbing  or  trailing,  we  may  mention 
the  ivies,  English  [Heclera  helix),  German,  Senecio 
miTcanioides,  cape  8,  macroglossus  and  Kenilworth  or 
coliseum  {Linaria  Cymhalaria),  Vitica  minor,  var. 
madeira  vine,  moneywort  {Lysimachia  nummularia), 
Mahernia  odorata,  Otlionna  crassifolia,  lobelias,  musk 
plant  {Mimulus  ?noscJiatns),  Lygodium  scandens,  wax 
plant  {Iloya  cai'uosa),  Cohcea  scandens,  canary  bird- 
flower  {^TrojiCBolum  peregrinum),  smilax  [Myrsiphyllinn 


MANAGEMENT   OF   HOUSE   PLANTS.  269 

asparagoides),  maurandya,  Manettia  licolor  and  M. 
cordifolia  and  cypress  vine  {fyomoea  Quamoclit).  For 
training  upon  the  walls  or  about  the  windows,  nearly 
any  of  the  climbers  should  be  used,  while  the  drooping 
vines  are  invaluable  for  use  in  hanging  baskets  and 
vases. 

WINDOW   BOXES. 

Excellent  results  can  often  be  obtained  from  boxes 
upon  the  window  sills  (Fig.  93).  If  made  of  the  length 
of  the  sill,  and  as  wide  as  will  rest  securely,  with  a  depth 
of  five  or  six  inches,  and  with  a  lining  of  zinc,  they  can 
be  filled  with  almost  any  of  the  small  or  medium  sized 
plants,  and  with  some  of  the  more  ornamental  of  the 
trailing  vines  they  will  present  a  very  handsome 
appearance. 

At  the  ends  of  the  boxes,  some  of  the  stronger  grow- 
ing vines  should  be  placed,  and  they  will  soon  reach  a  size 
that  will  allow  of  their  being  trained  about  the  window, 
as  in  this  way  a  much  better  growth  can  be  obtained 
than  would  be  secured  in  small  pots.  The  exterior  of 
these  boxes  can  be  painted,  or  covered  with  oilcloth. 
In  the  summer  time,  these  or  similar  boxes  may  be 
placed  outside  upon  the  window  sill,  and  with  a  little 
care  in  watering  will  be  very  attractive.  Equally  good, 
if  not  better,  results  can  be  obtained  from  the  use  of 
rather  larger  boxes  upon  a  veranda. 

When  designed  for  the  decoration  of  the  parlor  or 
drawing  room,  the  larger  plants  may  be  placed  in  jar- 
dinieres or  in  large  ornamental  flower  pots.  Some  of 
the  more  simple  forms  of  j^lanc  stands  Avill  be  found  very 
convenient  and  quite  attractive,  while  for  the  decoration  of 
the  bay  window,  wire  or  earthen  hanging  baskets  and 
plants  upon  brackets  will  serve  to  increase  the  apparent 
extent  of  the  arrangement. 


270 


GEEENHOUSE  MAifAGEAlENT. 


MANAGEMENT  OF   HOUSE   PLANlS.  2"^% 

HANGING  BASKETS. 

There  are  few  ways  of  arranging  plants  that  give 
better  satisfaction  than  in  hanging  baskets.  If  those 
made  of  wire  are  used,  tliey  should  be  lined  with  green 
moss,  or  si^hagnum,  from  the  swamp,  and  filled  with  a 
light,  but  rich  soil.  The  glazed  earthen  pots  are  not 
porous,  and  the  soil  soon  becomes  sour,  if  the  watering 
is  not  done  very  carefully  ;  although  less  ornamental, 
the  unglazed  pots  will  be  likely  to  give  a  better  growth 
of  plants.  To  hold  the  water,  and  prevent  the  baking 
of  the  surface,  a  thin  layer  of  moss  or  sphagnum  should 
be  placed  over  it.  From  the  fact  that  they  are  exposed 
at  all  times  to  drying  influences,  they  need  a  copious 
supply  of  water.  In  case  they  dry  out  at  any  time,  it 
will  be  well  to  dip  them  in  a  tub  of  water,  as  dry  sphag- 
num takes  up  water  very  slowly.  For  the  center  of 
the  basket,  it  is  best  to  take  some  graceful,  drooping 
plants,  such  as  dracgenas  or  cordylines,  caladiums, 
begonias,  ferns,  small  palms,  pan^danus,  geraniums,  and 
particularly  ivy  geraniums.  Around  these,  if  the  bas- 
ket is  a  large  one,  small  upright  or  drooping  plants,  such 
as  alyssums,  lobelias,  verbenas,  anthericums,  coleus, 
achyranthes,  saxifrage,  mikanias,  mahernia,  othonna, 
Isolepis  gracilis,  mimulus,  nierembergia,  mesembryan- 
themums,  and  other  small  plants  may  be  used.  In 
addition  to  the  trailing  plants  mentioned,  such  others 
as  Kenilwortli  (coliseum)  ivy,  moneywort  and  trades- 
cantia,  of  various  kinds.  Tropgeolums  and  variegated 
vincas  will  be  desirable  for  hanging  over  the  edge  of  the 
basket,  while  the  German  ivy,  madeira  vine,  cypress 
vine,  English  ivy,  and  other  climbers  may  be  trained  up 
the  wires  or  chains,  and  festooned  to  some  of  the  sur- 
rounding objects.  While  wire  baskets  or  those  made  of 
earthenware,  especially  for  this  purpose,  are  best 
adapted,  there  is  often  about  the  house  a  variety  of  cast- 
off  utensils  that  can  be  used  as  hanging  baskets. 


27;^  GKEENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

AQUARIUMS. 

As  an  adjunct  to  the  other  floral  decorations  of  the 
living  room,  these  extremely  interesting  ornaments 
should  not  be  overlooked.  They  can  be  stocked  with 
foliage  and  flowering  plants,  fish,  snails,  and  other  ani- 
mals, and  with  very  little  attention  will  be  found 
extremely  attractive. 

The  aquarium  itself  should  be  of  some  simple,  yet 
tasteful  design,  and  its  beauty  will  be  enhanced  if  its 
sides  are  of  glass  ;  while  the  framework  may  be  of  wood, 
it  is  preferably  made  of  iron,  with  a  slate  bottom.  In 
filling  it,  clean  fine  sand  should  be  placed  in  the  bottom 
and  covered  with  a  layer  of  gravel,  over  which  ornamen- 
tal shells,  stones,  etc.,  should  be  strewn.  In  the 
center,  arches  should  be  constructed  of  slag,  or  coral 
rocks.  Of  plants,  for  purifying  the  water,  the  Sagittaria 
natans  and  AnachmHs  Canadensis  are  highly  esteemed, 
although  eel  grass  and  parrot  feather  {MyrsiophyUiim 
asparagoides)  are  valuable.  The  stems  of  these  can  be 
imbedded  in  the  sand,  and  they  will  readily  take  root. 
Other  plants  in  pots,  such  as  callas  and  cyperus,  can 
also  be  used  in  large  aquariums. 

In  addition  to  small  minnows,  gold  fish,  stickle- 
backs and  other  fish,  various  kinds  of  snails,  and  if 
desired,  lizards,  frogs,  etc.,  can  be  added.  As  soon 
as  tlie  plants  have  been  arranged,  the  aquarium  should 
be  supplied  nearly  full  of  pure  fresh  water,  and  the  animals 
added.  In  locating  an  aquarium,  while  it  is  desirable 
that  it  be  where  it  can  have  sun  for  a  short  time  each 
day,  very  much  of  the  direct  sunlight  should  be  avoided, 
as  it  is  injurious  to  the  fish,  as  the  water  will  soon  fill 
with  a  green  scum. 

Aquariums  need  but  very  little  care,  as,  if  the  glass 
is  wiped  off  every  week  or  two,  using  a  swab  at  the  end 
of  a  stick,  and  the  contents  taken  out  and  the  tank  thor- 


AQUIRIUMS.  ^'^3 

oughly  cleaned  once  a  year,  little  other  attention  need 
be  given  them. 

The  fish  should  be  fed  regularly  once  a  day ;  while 
bread  crumbs  and  similar  food  will  answer,  they  will 
thrive  best  if  fed  ui)on  earth  worms,  flies,  or  bits  of  raw- 
meat.  Care  should  be  taken  that  no  more  is  supplied 
than  will  readily  be  eaten  by  the  fish,  or  other  animals 
in  the  tanks.  With  the  above  attention,  in  a  room  at  a 
temperature  of  from  60  to  70  degrees,  there  will  be  little 
trouble  iu  keeping  both  animals  and  plants  in  a  healthy 
condition,  and  much  pleasure  can  be  derived  from  them. 

WAHDIAN    CASES. 

When  one  desires  to  grow  exotic  ferns,  and  the  more 
delicate  plants,  in  the  living  rooms,  some  means  must  be 
employed  to  preserve  an  abundant,  even  supply  of 
moisture,  and  to  keep  the  dust  from  them.  One  of  the 
simplest  devices  is  known  as  a  Wardian  case.  This  con- 
sists of  a  shallow  box,  of  any  desired  size,  say  3  by  18  by  36 
inches,  lined  with  sheet  lead  or  zinc,  and  covered  either 
with  a  glass  shade  or  a  glass  box  of  the  same  length  and 
breadth  as  the  base,  and  with  a  bight  of  perhaps  eighteen 
inches.  The  framework  for  the  glass  can  be  of  any 
light  wood,  fastened  securely  together.  The  cover  itself 
should  be  removable,  to  provide  for  watering  and  venti- 
lation. The  bottom  box  can  be  made  ornamental  if  one 
prefers,  but  the  glass  top  will  present  the  best  appear- 
ance, if  in  some  simple  and  neat  style. 

The  soil  for  filling  the  box  should  contain  a  large 
amount  of  sand  and  leaf  mold,  and  for  some  jdants  a 
generous  supply  of  peat  is  advisable.  If  properly  sup- 
plied with  water  when  first  filled,  it  will  need  but  little 
more,  as  it  condenses  upon  the  glass  and  runs  back  to 
the  soil.  Among  the  best  plants  for  a  Wardian  case  are 
the  more  delicate  of  the  tropical  ferns  and  selaginellas, 
marautas,  peperomias,  dracgeuas,  crotons  and  both  foli- 
18 


2^4  GREE2S'H0USE   MAJSTAGEMENT. 

age  and  flowering  begonias.  They  will  require  little  or 
no  care  in  addition  to  an  occasional  watering,  except  to 
raise  the  glass  for  a  short  time  each  morning,  to  afford 
them  a  supply  of  fresh  air,  and  to  pick  out  the  decayed 
leases  and  flowers. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

THE   GROWING   OF  BEDDING   PLANTS. 

In  every  greenhouse,  whether  public  or  private, 
some  attention  is  given  to  the  growing  of  plants  for 
lawn  decoration.  A  few  years  ago,  the  plants  used  on 
the  ordinary  lawn  consisted  of  a  few  common  varieties, 
grown  from  seeds,  or  "slips"  taken  from  the  plants 
grown  for  winter  flowering. 

Not  only  has  the  number  of  varieties  used  for  this 
purpose  increased,  but  within  the  last  twenty  years  the 
attention  given  to  carpet  bedding  and  other  lawn  plant- 
ing has  increased  many  fold.  For  convenience,  the 
plants  used  for  this  purpose  may  be  divided  into  foliage 
plants,  flowering  plants,  bulbs  and  ornamental  grasses. 

EOLIAGE   PLANTS. 

At  the  present  time,  the  number  of  species  of  plants 
of  this  class  in  use  is  comparatively  small,  and  yet  per- 
haps they  are  used  more  extensively  than  all  others  com- 
bined. They  are  very  easily  and  cheajjly  grown,  and, 
unlike  many  of  the  flowering  plants,  are  ornamental 
throughout  the  entire  season. 

Among  the  best-known  and  most  useful  plants  of 
this  class  are  the  coleus,  achyranthes  (or,  more  properly, 
iresine)  and  alternanthera.  The  first  two  greatly 
resemble  each  other,  and  as  they  require  about  the  same 


THE   GROWING   OF   BELLING   PLANTS.  275 

care,  they  may  be  considered  together.  The  alternan- 
thera,  on  the  other  hand,  is  a  small,  compact  growing 
plant,  seldom  reaching  ahight  of  more  than  six  inches, 
while  the  others  are  from  twelve  to  twenty. 

These  plants  are  grown  from  cuttings,  those  for  the 
stock  plants  being  made  about  the  first  of  September. 
Sometimes  the  cuttings  are  not  secured  until  the  plants 
have  been  more  or  less. cut  back  by  frost,  which  will 
tend  to  weaken  them  considerably.  The  plants,  as 
grown  in  the  beds,  require  more  or  less  pinching  and 
trimming,  and  the  portions  cut  off  can  be  used  for  cut- 
tings and  will  thus  be  secured  and  out  of  the  way  before 
the  rush  of  housing  the  plants  begins.  As  soon  as 
rooted,  they  should  be  potted  into  two-inch  pots  and 
placed  in  a  house,  where  they  will  have  an  average  night 
temperature  of  60  degrees.  Considerable  space  can  be 
saved  if  three  or  even  four  of  the  alternanthera  cuttings 
are  placed  in  one  pot,  and  grown  in  this  way  until  Feb- 
ruary, when  they  can  be  separated  and  each  placed  in  a 
jiot  by  itself. 

The  soil  required  for  these  plants  during  the  winter 
should  not  be  very  rich,  as  it  is  desirable  to  hold  them 
back  until  after  "the  first  of  January.  If  they  show 
signs  of  spindling,  the  terminal  bud  should  be  pinched 
off.  When  many  cuttings  are  desired,  the  plants  should 
be  repotted  about  January  1,  and  started  into  growth. 
By  the  liberal  use  of  liquid  manure,  several  crops  of  cut- 
tings can  be  obtained  from  the  stock  plants.  These 
should  be  given  the  same  treatment  as  was  recom- 
mended for  the  stock  plants,  and  by  the  first  of  May,  if 
large  plants  are  desired  for  planting  out,  they  should 
be  given  a  final  shift  into  three  or  three  and  one- 
half-inch  pots. 

To  harden  them  off  for  planting  out,  it  is  well  to 
place  the  bedding  plants  in  cold  frames  at  this  time, 
having  it  so  that  they  can  be  covered  in  stormy  weather 


270  GKEENIIOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

and  on  cold  nights.  When  to  be  used  by  the  grower,  it 
is  very  convenient  to  give  them  their  final  shift  into 
deep  flats,  where,  if  placed  four  inches  apart,  they  will 
do  better  than  if  left  in  pots,  and  require  less  care, 
besides  being  more  convenient  for  handling. 

The  alternanthera  requires  a  moist  air  and  can  be 
best  propagated  if  the  stock  plants  are  placed  in  a  good 
hotbed,  also  using  it  for  striking  the  cuttings  and  grow- 
ing the  plants.  The  care  necessary  to  winter  and  prop- 
agate coleus  and  achyranthes  is  about  the  feame  as  for 
alternanthera,  except  that  the  cuttings  are  usually 
potted  singly.  If  carefully  watered  and  tiie  temperature 
is  kept  at  60  degrees,  they  can  be  grown  with  little  loss. 
Among  the  best  varieties  of  coleus  for  bedding  purposes 
are  the  Verschaffeltii,  which  is  of  a  rich,  dark  maroon 
color  and  has  been  for  years  at  the  head  of  the  list, 
and  Golden  Verschaffeltii,  similar  to  the  last  in  growth, 
but  of  a  clear,  bright  yellow. 

The  varieties  of  achyranthes  are  either  of  some 
shade  of  red,  or  of  yellow  with  a  green  ground.  The 
best  of  the  red  leaved  sorts  are  the  Hoveyii,  with  dull, 
carmine  leaves,  which  are  broadly  ovate  in  form  and 
have  whitish  veins ;  Lindenii,  with  lanceolate,  rich, 
blood-red  leaves;  Herbstii  an rea- reticulata,  with  carmine 
stems,  petioles  and  veins,  while  the  leaves  are  green 
blotched  with  yellow.  Among  the  others  ai-e  Emersonii, 
a  variety  resembling  Lindenii,  and  Gilsonii,  which  dif- 
fers from  aurea-reticulata  principally  in  the  shape 
of  the  leaves. 

Among  the  better  varieties  of  alternanthera  are  A. 
amahilis,  A.  spectuMlis,  A.  parnnycliinides,  A.  parony- 
chioides  major,  and  A.  versicolor,  which  have  various 
shades  of  rod,  orange  and  bronze,  or  olive  green,  and 
A.  paronycMoides  major  aiirea,  with  a  foliage  colored 
green  and  yellow.  The  latter,  especially,  is  very  useful 
for  bedding  purposes. 


THE  GUOWIKG   OF  BEDDING   PLAINTS.  277 

To  contrast  with  the  above  dark  colored  foliage 
plants,  a  number  with  silver  or  yellow  foliage  are  grown, 
the  most  common  of  which  are  the  Centaurea  gymno- 
carpa  and  cancUdissima,  Cineraria  maritima,  and  Pyre- 
tlirum  aureum.  These  are  all  readily  grown  from  seed, 
which  should  be  sown  in  shallow  flats  during  February. 
The  seedlings  should  be  transferred  to  small  pots  or 
flats  as  soon  as  the  first  true  leaves  appear,  and  with  good 
care  will  be  large  enough  by  the  middle  of  May  to  be 
planted  out  as  borders  for  geraniums,  dark-colored  coleus 
and  other  bedding  j)lants. 

FLOWEBJNG   PLANTS. 

Of  the  other  bedding  i^lants  that  are  commonly 
grown  from  seed,  we  may  mention  petunias,  phlox,  ver- 
benas, alyssum,  candy-tuft,  balsams,  portulaca,  asters, 
celosia,  dianthus  and  ricinus.  In  a  general  way,  these 
require  about  the  same  care  as  the  other  seedling 
annuals.  There  are  also  a  large  number  of  bedding 
plants  valued  principally  for  their  flowers,  which  may 
be  grown  from  seed,  but  which  are  usually  propagated 
by  means  of  cuttings,  among  them  are  ageratum,  gera- 
nium, lantana,  cuphea,  while  many  of  those  grown  from 
seeds  could  be  propagated  by  means  of  cuttings,  if  it  is 
desired  to  reproduce  some  choice  variety. 

SWEET   PEAS. 

While  the  sweet  pea  likes  a  cool,  moist  and  rather 
heavy  soil,  it  can  be  grown  successfully  in  almost  any 
place  where  the  soil  is  not  too  dry  and  where  the  plants 
will  not  be  too  near  large  trees  or  in  the  shade  of  build- 
ings. It  is  a  good  plan  to  prepare  the  soil  the  fall  pre- 
vious to  planting  by  applying  three  or  four  inches  of 
thoroughly  decomposed  manure,  and  working  it  into  the 
soil  to  the  depth  of  ten  or  twelve  inches  where  the  rows 
are  to  be.  A  liberal  amount  of  wood  ashes  and  ground 
bone  can  also  be  used  to  advantage.     Another  method  is 


278  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

to  dig  a  trench  twelve  inches  deep  and  fourteen  inches 
wide  and  place  in  the  bottom  six  inches  of  composted 
manure,  to  which  wood  ashes  and  ground  bone  have  been 
added.  If  the  former  method  is  used,  drills  for  the  seed 
are  made  six  inches  deep  and  ten  inches  apart,  in  which 
the  seeds  are  sowii  as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked 
in  the  spring.  They  should  be  dropped  in  a  scattering 
manner  in  the  drills  so  that  they  will  be  two  or  three 
inches  apart.  Planted  in  this  way,  there  will  be  ten  or 
twelve  plants  in  each  foot  of  the  double  rows.  When 
low-priced  seed  is  used,  twice  as  many  may  be  planted 
and  the  surplus  plants  removed.  If  the  bottom  of  the 
trench  has  been  filled  with  compost,  as  was  recommended 
above,  a  little  soil  should  be  sprinkled  over  it  and  the 
seeds  sown.  In  either  case  they  should  not  be  covered 
with  more  than  two  inches  of  soil  at  first.  If  the  weath- 
er is  very  cold  after  the  seed  is  planted,  it  will  be  well  to 
cover  the  rows  with  a  light  mulch  or  boards,  removing 
them  as  the  weather  becomes  warmer.  After  the  plants 
appear  above  ground  the  trenches  should  be  gradually 
filled,  taking  care  not  to  cover  the  crowns.  The  danger 
of  rot  and  blight  will  be  lessened  if  the  covering  soil  is 
sandy.  If  the  ground  is  not  ready  when  the  seed  should 
be  sown,  or  in  the  case  of  choice  varieties,  the  seed  may 
be  sown  in  some  warm  spot,  or  in  boxes  or  pots  in  the 
house  or  cold  frame,  and  tlie  plants  transplanted  when 
one  or  two  inches  high.  Unless  sown  in  pots  care  should 
be  taken  in  transplanting  not  to  break  the  taproots. 

When  well  grown,  most  of  the  stronger  varieties  will 
reach  a  bight  of  six  feet  and  will  need  a  substantial  sup- 
port. In  some  places  bushy  branches  of  trees  may  be 
used,  but  a  neater  and  generally  more  satisfactory  sup- 
port can  be  obtained  from  either  a  twine,  wire  or  wire- 
netting  trellis.  This  should  be  from  four  to  six  feet 
high,  upon  strong,  well-braced  supports.  It  will  be  de- 
sirable to  have  a  row  of  stakes  for  each  row ;  they  may 


BULBS  FOR  THE  LAWN,  279 

either  be  vertical  or  inclined  so  that  the  tops  touch. 
The  strings  may  be  run  vertically,  but  it  will  be  better 
if  the  wires  are  arranged  either  horizontally  or  diago- 
nally. Whatever  suppoi'ts  are  to  be  used,  they  should  be 
in  place  soon  after  the  plants  appear  above  ground,  and 
care  should  be  taken  to  have  the  bottom  of  the  trellis  at 
such  a  hight  that  the  plants  can  readily  reach  it. 

There  should  be  a  slight  hollow  where  the  rows  are, 
so  that  rain  water  will  be  held,  and  to  permit  of  the 
ready  watering  of  the  surface  if  the  weather  becomes 
dry.  Sub-irrigation  for  sweet  peas  gives  excellent 
results.  It  can  be  provided  by  laying  three-inch  drain 
tiles,  into  which  water  can  be  turned,  along  the  rows, 
just  below  the  surface  of  the  ground.  In  order  to  pre- 
vent the  loss  of  water  by  evaporation,  the  surface  of  the 
soil  should  be  covered,  as  soon  as  the  weather  becomes 
dry,  with  two  inches  of  fine  grass,  straw  or  other  litter. 
If  the  flowers  are  not  picked  it  is  of  the  utmost  impor- 
tance that  the  seed  pods  be  removed  as  soon  as  they  form. 
If  this  is  neglected,  the  plants  will  be  likely  to  dry  up 
by  midsummer. 

BULBS  FOR  THE  LAWN". 

Many  of  the  bulbs  used  for  the  decoration  of  the 
lawn  in  summer  are  started  in  the  greenhouse  in  the 
spring  and  are  then  transferred  to  the  ground  outside. 
Among  them  are  the  caladinm,  canna  and  dahlia. 

The  Caladinm  esculentum,  which  is  the  species 
most  commonly  used  for  lawn  planting,  should  be  dug 
after  the  leaves  have  been  cut  by  frost,  and  after  being 
dried  should  be  packed  away  in  some  moderately  warm, 
dry  place.  To  prevent  excessive  drying,  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  place  them  in  shallow  boxes  and  pack  dry  soil  or  sand 
about  them.  In  March  or  April  the  bulbs  should  be 
potted  off  singly  in  pots  whose  diameter  is  about  twice 
that  of  the  bulbs.     They  like  a  rich,  light  soil,  and  after 


280  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

being  tliorouglilj  watered  should  be  placed  ia  a  -warm 
room.  If  the  potting  has  been  delayed,  they  can  be  ad- 
yanced  by  giving  a  strong  bottom  heat.  After  the  leaves 
have  a2:)peared  they  will  stand  a  considerable  amount  of 
water,  provided  the  pots  are  well  drained. 

Cannas  should  be  put  away  for  the  winter  in  about 
the  same  manner  as  caladiums,  but  will  stand  a  some- 
what lower  temperature,  although  it  should  be  kept  well 
above  40  degrees.  Many  varieties  do  well  if  placed  in 
j)ots  or  boxes,  or  planted  out  in  beds,  for  several  months 
in  the  fall,  for  supplying  flowers  and  brightening  up  the 
greenhouse.  It  is  also  well  to  j^ot  off  some  of  the  bulbs 
jn  the  winter,  after  they  have  liad  a  short  rest,  and  thus 
secure  flowers  in  the  early  spring.  The  usual  plan  has 
been  to  keep  the  bulbs  in  the  cellar,  or  under  the  green- 
house benches,  until  danger  of  frost  is  over  and  then 
after  dividing  them  so  that  there  will  be  at  least  one 
strong  bud  on  each  piece,  planting  them  in  the  open 
ground.  Quicker  and  better  results  can  be  obtained, 
however,  if  they  have  been  started  in  pots  or  boxes 
before  they  are  transferred  to  the  beds  outside.  With 
choice  varieties  it  is  possible  to  increase  the  rapidity 
of  propagation  if  the  bulbs  are  planted  on  beds  in  a 
greenhouse  where  they  will  have  a  brisk  bottom  heat 
about  midwinter.  In  a  short  time  new  shoots  will  form, 
which  can  be  taken  off  and  in  turn  planted  out  to 
reproduce. 

Several  of  the  new  sorts,  such  as  Italia  and  Austria, 
seem  to  be  well  adaj^ted  for  flowering  in  pots,  but  the 
texture  of  the  petals  is  such  that  they  do  not  succeed  out- 
side in  most  j^arts  of  the  country  unless  they  are  i)lanted 
in  partial  shade.  For  ordinary  use,  either  on  the  lawn 
or  in  the  house,  there  are  few  if  any  better  sorts  than 
the  well-known  Mmo.  Crozy.  Florence  Vaughau  is 
perhaps  the  best  yellow  spotted  variety.  Among  the 
other  sorts    that    have    been    generally   successful  are 


THE  DAHLIA..  381 

A-lphonse  Bouvier,  Explorateur  Crampbel,  Egandale, 
Geoffrey  St.  HilliarOj  J.  D.  Cabos,  Paul  Marquant  and 
Pres.  Caruot. 

THE  DAHLIA. 

This  old  favorite  is  again  becoming  the  fashion,  and 
even  now  is  usurping  the  attention  that  has  for  some 
years  been  given  the  sweet  pea.  The  single  sorts  may 
be  grown  successfully  from  seed,  but  for  the  double  vari- 
eties it  is  better  to  rely  upon  cuttings  of  the  stem,  or 
division  of  the  roots.  The  cuttings  root  readily  in  sand, 
and  if  started  early  will  give  good  results.  In  dividing 
the  roots,  it  is  necessary  that  there  should  be  a  bud  at 
the  end  of  each.  The  operation  can  be  most  readily  per- 
formed if  the  stools  are  slightly  started  into  growth  be- 
fore the  division  is  made. 

Dahlias  like  a  deep,  rich,  moist  and  rather  heavy 
soil,  and  in  few  plants  will  a  little  extra  labor  in  the 
prejiaration  of  the  soil  be  better  repaid.  An  excess  of 
nitrogenous  manure  should  be  avoided,  as  it  will  give  a 
rank  growth  of  leaves  and  few  flowers,  while  a  sandy  soil 
is  likely — owing  to  its  usual  deficiency  in  j)lant  food  and 
moisture — to  give  rather  small  plants  upon  a  few  small 
roots,  and  with  undersized  flowers.  If  moisture  and 
plant  food  are  provided,  excellent  results  can  be  secured 
upon  a  sandy  loam  soil.  The  plants  should  be  set  in  the 
beds  as  soon  as  danger  of  frost  is  over.  They  will  be 
best  in  rows,  if  a  large  number  are  to  be  grown,  and 
with  a  large  collection  it  will  be  well  to  have  them  far 
enougli  apart  to  admit  of  cultivating  them  with  a 
horse.  Owing  to  their  love  of  moisture,  it  is  very  desir- 
able in  dry  summers  that  the  surface  of  the  soil  be 
kept  loose  to  the  depth  of  two  inches,  to  lessen  the 
amount  of  evaporation. 

As  commonly  grown,  allowing  them  to  form  shoots 
freely,   most   varieties  require  staking   to  prevent  the 


282  GKEENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

breaking  down  of  the  stems  by  high  winds,  but  many  of 
the  new  varieties  have  short  stiff  stems  that  make  this 
unnecessary.  A  better  way  of  training  the  pLants,  which 
will  seldom  require  staking,  is  by  pinching  off  the  shoots 
after  they  liave  two  nodes  above  ground  and  allowing 
four  branches  to  form,  all  other  shoots  being  removed. 
In  this  way  four  stout  shoots  will  be  secured  which  can 
be  trained  to  single  stems,  if  large  flowers  are  desired,  or 
they  may  be  again  pinched  and  thus  made  to  form  as 
many  shoots  as  are  wislied.  Another  method,  where 
large  flowers  are  desired,  is  to  allow  but  one  main  shoot  to 
grow.  This  will  become  quite  large  and  tree-like  and 
will  require  staking. 

When  the  tops  have  been  killed  by  frost  they  should 
be  cut  and,  if  severe  freezing  weather  is  likely  to  follow, 
the  roots  should  be  dug  ;  after  the  removal  of  most  of  the 
earth  and  partially  drying  them,  if  the  soil  is  wet,  they 
should  be  stored  in  some  cool  but  frost-proof  and  mod- 
erately dry  cellar. 

The  cactus  dahlia  is  likely  to  become  the  favorite 
flower  for  late  summer  and  early  fall,  and  in  the  new 
varieties  there  are  many  handsome  forms  and  brilliant 
colors.  The  original  plant  was  carried  from  Mexico  to 
Holland  in  1872.  It  was  named  Dahlia  Juarez,  in  honor 
of  the  President  of  Mexico.  Instead  of  the  quilled  flo- 
rets found  in  other  forms  those  of  the  cactus  dahlias  are 
flat  and  strap-shaped. 

The  following  list  of  varieties  is  recommended  by 
the  Cornell  Experiment  Station:  Cactus,  Mrs.  A.  Peart, 
white  ;  Nymphaea,  pink  ;  Wm.  Agnew,  scarlet  orange  ; 
Maid  of  Kent,  scarlet  and  white  ;  Black  Prince,  dark 
red  ;  large  flowered,  Grand  Duke  Alexis,  white  ;  Ethel 
Vick,  pink  ;  Eev.  C.  W.  Bolton,  variegated,  red  and 
yellow  ;  Fern  Leaved  Beauty,  banded,  red  and  white  ; 
pompon,  Guiding  Star,  white,  imbricated  ;  Vivid,  scar- 
let orange,  and  Ami  Barillet,  single,  scarlet. 


HARDY  ORNAMEKTAL  GRASSES.  283 

HARDY   ORNAMEXTAL   GRASSES. 

For  planting  on  the  lawn  in  connection  with  shrub- 
bery and  strong  growing  sub-tropical  plants,  there  are 
many  ornamental  grasses  that  can  be  used  with  good 
effect.  Although  generally  spoken  of  as  hardy,  most  of 
them  are  greatly  benefited  by  winter  protection,  and  in 
many  parts  of  the  country  even  this  is  not  sufficient. 
They  delight  in  a  rich  and  moist  but  well-drained  soil, 
and  in  suitable  locations  present  a  handsome  and  striking 
appearance  for  three  or  four  months  in  the  year. 

Among  the  most  desirable  are  several  species  of  Eu- 
lalia.  Under  favorable  conditions  Eulalia  Japonica 
Zehrina  will  prove  very  attractive.  It  is  a  tall  growing 
sort,  with  long,  narrow  leaves  transversely  marked  with 
broad  patches  of  yellow.  In  the  fall  its  flower  spikes 
form  open,  feathery  plumes.  It  propagates  readily  by 
division  of  the  clumps,  and,  if  well  mulched,  will  pass 
the  winter  in  well-drained  soil  where  the  climate  is  not 
too  severe,  but  where  there  is  danger  of  winterkilling 
the  clumps  can  be  taken  up  in  the  fall  and  planted  in 
pots  or  shallow  boxes.  Placed  in  a  cool  cellar  or  cold 
frame,  they  will  require  no  care  except  an  occasional 
moistening  of  the  soil  if  it  becomes  dry.  In  the  spring 
they  can  be  started  into  growth  and  planted  out  after 
danger  of  frost  is  over.  Of  the  other  species,  Eulalia 
Jwponica  variegata,  which  is  the  same  as  the  above  ex- 
cept that  the  stripes  are  narrow  and  longitudinal,  and 
E.  gracillima  univitata  are  most  desirable.  The  latter  is 
six  or  eight  feet  high,  with  quite  narrow  leaves  which 
bear  a  single  longitudinal  stripe.  It  is  quite  hardy  and 
in  most  parts  of  the  country  will  j^ass  the  winter  in  the 
open  ground  without  protection. 

Arundo  Donax  variegata  is  another  strong-growing 
form  which  in  most  localities  should  be  wintered  in  a 
cellar  or  cold  frame.  The  Fountain  grass,  Pennisetum 
longistylum  and  its  purple  variety,  P.  Rii2}pelianum,  are 


884  GEEENUOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

excellent  as  a  border  for  otlier  grasses  and  strong-grow- 
ing plants  of  any  kind.  It  is  propagated  from  seed,  which 
is  freely  produced,  the  seeds  being  sown  in  April  and 
grown  the  same  as  other  annuals. 

In  some  sections  the  Pampas  grass  is  also  success- 
fully grown  and  presents  a  very  striking  appearance. 
Several  forms  of  bamboo  can  also  be  used  to  advantage 
for  lawn  planting,  and  in  some  localities  can  be  wintered 
successfully  in  the  open  ground. 

SUCCULENTS. 

For  bedding  purposes,  some  of  the  succulents,  such 
as  Echeverias,  are  largely  grown  and  their  use  for  this 
purpose  seems  to  be  increasing  in  public  favor,  while  the 
cacti  proper,  the  aloes  and  agaves  are  so  easy  of  cultiva- 
tion, so  interesting  in  habit  and  attractive  in  flower,  that 
in  every  collection  they  are  more  or  less  numerous.  Of 
the  cotyledons  {.Echpveria)  the  form  known  as  semnda 
glauca  is  most  used  for  bedding.  It  propagates  readily 
by  means  of  offshoots  from  the  parent  plants,  which 
only  need  to  be  separated  and  potted  off,  or  by  the  use 
of  leaf  cuttings. 

By  the  latter  method,  the  leaves  are  separated — 
pulled  off  and  not  cut — from  the  parent  plant,  in  the  fall 
or  spring,  and  after  the  end  has  callused  over  they  are 
set  in  the  cutting  boxes,  where  they  should  have  only 
enough  water  to  keep  them  from  shrivelling.  Eoots 
will  soon  form  and  the  bud  at  the  base  of  the  leaves  will 
start,  and  form  a  plant  large  enough  to  use  the  following 
season.  Succulents  of  all  kinds  should  be  kept  moder- 
ately dry  during  their  resting  period  in  the  winter,  but 
when  growth  starts  in  the  spring  w^ater  should  be  given 
in  generous  quantities,  and,  unless  they  have  been 
recently  repotted,  liquid  manure  can  be  used  to  advan- 
tage. They  delight  in  a  sandy  soil  and  thorough  drain- 
age.    During  the  summer,  the  plants  used  for  bedding 


SUCCULENTS. 


'285 


purposes  should  have  a  fair  amount  of  water,  although 
they  have  few  equals  as  bedding  plants  when  the  supply 
is  short.  During  the  winter  they  can  be  kept  in  a  cool 
house  (45  degrees). 

Several  forms,  such  as  Cotyledon  gibhijlora  meiallica 
(commonly  called  EJieveria  rnetaUica)  are  desirable  for 
winter  flowering  and  many  of  them,  including  several 
annuals,   can  be  readily  increased   from  seeds.      Tlie 


FIG.  93.     EPIPHYLLUM  TRUNCATUM. 

houseleeks,    Mesembryanthemum,    and    similar    forms, 
require  much  the  same  care. 

Of  the  other  succulents,  tlie  Cereus  and  the  leaf 
cacti  Phyllocactus  and  Epiphyllum  (Fig.  93)  are  most 
commonly  grown.  The  mo.^t  desirable  species  of  the 
first  genus  are  C.  grnndiflonis,  C.  3facdonaldi  and  G. 
triangularis  and  the  rat-tailed  cactus  {C.  jlagblliformis). 


2SG 


GREENHOUSE  MAKAGEMENT. 


They  are  increased  by  cutting  up  the  stems  into 
pieces  three  inches  long  and  rooting  them  under  the 
same  conditions  as  the  Cotyledon.  Soon  after  the 
growth  starts,  suckers  and  branches  will  be  sent  out. 
It  will  generally  be  best,  in  case  an  old  stem  was  used 
for  the  cuttings,  to  cut  these  off  and  root  them,  which 
can  be  readily  done.     The  Epiphyllums  and  other  leaf 


FIG.  94.  A  COLLECTION  OF  CACTI  AND  ALOES. 

cacti  are  often  grown  as  standards,  by  grafting  them 
upon  Pereskia  stocks.  The  form  of  graft  used  is  a  mod- 
ification of  the  cleft  graft  and  is  known  as  the  saddle 
graft.  Among  the  other  desirable  forms  are  the  Opun- 
tias,  with  their  flattened  leaf-like  stems,  t)ie  Mammil- 
larias  and  Echinocactiis,  with  tlieir  spherical  forms, 
and  a  number  of  handsome  species  of  aloes  (Fig.  94). 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

PEOPAGATIOIS'   OF   PLANTS   BY   SEEDS   AND    CUTTINGS. 

In  order  to  keep  up  a  supply  of  plants  and  to  mul- 
tiply individuals  of  merit,  some  method  of  propagation 
must  be  employed,  the  one  selected  being  that  best 
suited  to  the  particular  species  or  variety.  Many  of  our 
plants  are  known  as  annuals,  from  the  fact  that  they  will 
grow  and  mature  seed  in  one  season,  after  which  they 
die.  As  a  rule,  such  plants  are  reproduced  the  follow- 
ing year  from  the  seeds,  which  are  freely  produced. 

The  methods  of  propagation  known  as  grafting, 
budding  and  layering,  are  also  sometimes  employed  in 
growing  greenhouse  plants,  but  a  more  common  way  is 
by  means  of  sections  of  the  plants,  known  as  cuttings, 
which  are  removed  and  subjected  to  such  influences  as 
will  induce  them  to  throw  out  roots.  Another  method 
of  division,  used  with  plants  thai  sucker  freely,  is  the 
division  of  the  roots,  the  plants  being  separated  into  two 
or  more  portions,  each  consisting  of  a  piece  of  root  sur- 
mounted by  a  stem,  or  at  least  bearing  a  bud.  When- 
ever it  can  be  used,  this  is  one  of  the  surest  methods  of 
multiplying  plants,  and  some  species  can  be  increased 
very  rapidly  when  other  methods  fail,  or  are,  for  some 
reason,  unsatisfactory. 

GROWING    OF   PLANTS   FROM   SEEDS. 

Not  only  are  our  annual  plants  readily  increased 
from  seeds,  but  the  method  is  also  employed  in  multi- 
plying many  of  our  biennials  and  perennials,  and  is  our 
only  means,  except  in  case  of  sports  developed  by  bud 

287 


;388  GREENHOUSE  management. 

Yciriation,  of  obtaining  new  varieties.  For  the  success- 
ful germination  of  seeds,  certain  conditions  must  be 
present;  first,  the  seeds  sliould  be  plumj),  well-ripened, 
and  they  must  still  possess  their  vitality  unimpaired. 
The  best  results  will  be  obtained  if,  after  the  seeds 
have  been  cleaned  and  projierly  dried,  they  are  placed  in 
paper  sacks,  or,  better  yet,  in  tin  boxes  or  glass  bottlcG, 
and  kept  in  a  dry  room,  at  a  temperature  of  50  degi-ees. 
If  they  have  been  properly  dried,  few  seeds  will  be 
injured  even  if  the  temperature  falls  below  the  freezing 
point,  but  vitality  will  be  best  preserved  if  they  are  kept 
at  a  moderate,  even  temperature;  especially  should  a 
high  temperature  be  avoided  for  oily  seeds. 

Second,  the  seeds  must  be  exposed  to  a  temperature 
suited  to  their  needs,  and  a  proper  supply  of  moisture, 
with  free  access  of  air,  must  be  afforded  them.  The 
temperature  required  for  the  germination  of  seeds  is 
about  the  same  as  is  needed  by  the  plants,  but  germina- 
tion will  be  hastened  if  it  is  some  ten  or  fifteen  degrees 
higher.  When  45  to  50  degrees  is  suitable  for  the  plants 
at  night,  the  seeds  should  be  given  from  55  to  GO  degrees, 
and  if  the  excess  can  be  in  the  form  of  bottom 
heat  it  will  be  even  more  beneficial ;  a  similar  in- 
crease will  hasten  the  germination  of  the  seeds  of 
plants  that  need  60  to  70  degrees.  After  the  seeds  have 
been  sown,  they  should  not  be  allowed  to  become  dry, 
and  yet  great  care  is  necessary  that  the  soil  does  not 
become  saturated. 

Particularly  with  small  seeds  that  need  but  a  thin 
covering,  it  is  well  to  have  them  shaded,  as  well  as  to 
keep  them  covered,  and  thus  prevent  the  rapid  evapora- 
tion of  the  water,  and  the  consequent  drying  out  of  tlie 
soil.  If  in  the  shade,  the  moisture  can  be  retained  by 
means  of  a  pane  of  glass  placed  over  the  box  or  pan,  but 
if  so  situated  that  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  can  fall 
upon  them,  it  will  be  well  to  cover  the  glass  with  paper. 


GROWIXG    OP   PLANTS   FEOM   SEEDS.  289 

The  glass  sliould  be  slightly  tilted  to  afford  access  of  air. 
For  holding  the  soil,  shallow  wooden  boxes  or  flats 
answer  every  purpose,  although  some  florists  prefer 
unglazed,  earthenware  seed  pans ;  in  either  case,  thor- 
ough drainage  must  be  provided  by  means  of  holes  or 
cracks  in  the  bottoms. 

When  only  a  few  of  a  kind  are  to  be  sown,  a  shal- 
low cigar  box  will  answer  for  small  seeds,  and  boxes  with 
a  depth  of  from  'one  or  one  and  one-lialf  to  two  and 
one-half  inches,  according  to  the  size  of  the  seeds,  are 
ample.  In  large  establishments,  the  seed  beds  can,  if 
desired,  be  made  upon  the  greenhouse  benches,  thorough 
drainage  being  provided  for. 

The  soil  for  the  seed  bed  varies  to  some  extent  with 
the  character  of  the  plants,  but,  as  a  rule,  the  same  soil 
as  is  used  for  potting  will  answer,  although  it  will  be 
improved  by  the  addition  of  twenty-five  per  cent  of  sand, 
especially  for  covering  the  seeds.  The  depth  of  cover- 
ing Avill  vary  with  the  size  of  the  seed,  but,  under  glass, 
it  will  be  from  three  to  five  times  their  diameter,  while 
in  the  open  ground  it  will  be  about  fifty  per  cent  deeper, 
varying  with  the  character  of  the  soil.  While  seeds 
may  be  sown  broadcast,  it  will  generally  be  found  best 
to  have  them  in  drills  about  one  inch  apart  for  small 
seeds,  and  two  inches  for  the  larger  ones. 

In  filling  the  boxes  with  soil,  pains  should  be  taken 
to  press  it  into  the  corners,  and  we  must  not  forget  the 
necessity  of  leaving  the  soil  slightly  below  the  edge,  to 
prevent  the  water  running  off.  The  proper  depth  of 
soil  for  covering  the  seeds,  when  they  need  one-eighth  of 
an  inch  or  more,  can  be  secured  in  various  ways ;  one 
being  by  making  shallow  trenches  across  the  seed  beds, 
slightly  deejier  than  the  covering  needed  and,  after  sow- 
mg  the  seed,  filling  the  trenches;  while  another  is  by 
filling  the  box  so  that,  for  seeds  that  require  covering  a 
quarter  of  an  inch,  when  tli^  soil  has  been  leveled  off 
19 


290  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

and  slightly  pressed  down,  it  Avill  be  about  one-half  inch 
below  tlie  edge  of  the  box.  After  sowing  the  seeds, 
either  broadcast  or  in  rows  upon  the  snrface,  fill  up  the 
box  with  light,  prepared  soil,  strike  it  off  and  press  it 
down.  A  wooden  float  of  convenient  size,  with  handle, 
will  be  useful  in  sowing  seeds.  In  this  way,  a  uniform 
depth  of  covering  soil  will  be  secured  and  the  surface 
will  be  sufficiently  pressed  to  hold  the  water.  With  a 
little  practice,  the  depth  can  be  adjusted  for  any 
size  of  seed. 

When  the  sowing  has  been  completed,  the  boxes  should 
be  thoroughly  watered,  after  v/hicb,  as  with  plants  in 
pots,  the  seed  boxes  should  not  be  watered  until  their 
appearance  indicates  the  necessity,  and  then  enough 
should  be  applied  to  thoroughly  wet  tlie  soil.  When 
the  boxes  can  be  placed  for  a  few  minutes  in  a  water- 
tight bed,  holding  two  inches  of  water,  the  soil  will  be 
moistened  without  danger  of  washing  the  seeds,  or  of 
causing  the  plants  to  damp  off. 

As  soon  as  the  first  true  leaves  show,  the  seedlings 
should  be  pricked  out,  either  in  flats  or  small  pots ;  for 
many  plants,  the  flats  will  be  preferable  for  the  first 
transplanting. 

THE   FORMATION   OF   NEW   VARIETIES. 

While  it  is  possible  to  obtain  new  varieties  of  many 
plants  by  merely  growing  seedlings,  others  almost  invari- 
ably reproduce  themselves,  and  with  them  we  must 
resort  to  artificial  crossing,  or  hybridizing.  In  fact, 
although  some  progress  may  be  made  in  improving  those 
of  the  first  class,  by  selecting  the  more  promising  seed- 
lings, far  better  results  can  be  obtained  if  we  control  the 
parentage  by  artificial  pollination. 

For  any  desired  improvements,  we  should  select  as 
parents  two  varieties  that  have  the  desired  qualities  well 
developed,  and  transfer  pollen  from  the  anthers  of  one 


PEOPAGATIOH   BY    CUTTIIfGS.  291 

to  the  stigmas  of  the  other.  To  do  this  properly,  pre- 
caution must  be  taken  that  no  other  pollen  gains  access 
to  the  stigmas.  This  cau  be  done  by  first  removing  the 
anthers  from  all  perfect  flowers  that  are  to  be  used  as 
females,  before  the  petals  open,  and  covering  them  with 
small  paper  sacks.  We  have  thus  prevented  them  from 
being  self  fertilized,  or  crossed  with  pollen  of  unknown 
origin.  The  anthers  may  be  pulled  off  with  tweezers, 
or  the  corolla  may  be  cut  away,  thus  permitting  their 
easy  removal. 

As  soon  as  the  stigmas  haye  developed,  the  pollen 
from  the  other  parent  should  be  applied,  using  a  tooth- 
pick for  small  flowers,  while  the  anthers  may  be  broken 
out  from  large  ones  with  tweezers,  and  the  pollen  dusted 
over  the  surface  of  the  stigmas.  To  secure  the  best 
results,  a  superabundance  of  pollen  should  be  used. 
The  bag  should  then  be  replaced  and  kept  on  four  or  five 
days.  In  this  way,  we  may  hope  to  secure  seedlings 
some  of  which,  if  they  do  not  surpass  them,  will  possess 
to  a  high  degree  the  good  qualities  of  both  parents. 

PROPAGATION"   BY   CUTTINGS. 

Success  with  this  method  of  prop;igation  depends 
upon  the  condition  of  the  plants,  and  the  surroundings 
to  which  the  cuttings  are  exposed.  As  a  rule,  most  of 
our  perennial  greenhouse  plants  are  grown  from  cut- 
tings. In  some  cases,  seeds  are  not  readily  obtained, 
and  in  others  the  seedlings  do  not  make  desirable  plants, 
or  they  do  not  reproduce  the  variety.  In  a  great  majority 
of  these  cases,  cuttings  are  readily  obtained  and  rooted. 

The  jDlants  from  which  cuttings  are  taken  should  be 
strong  and  vigorous ;  if  stunted  by  insects  or  by  improper 
surroundings  of  heat,  light,  temperature,  or  food,  or 
weakened  by  excessive  production  of  flowers,  the  results 
will  be  quite  unsatisfactory,  and  it  will  be  equally  so  if 
soft,  watery  growth,  produced  by  a  high  temperature 


292 


GEEENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


PKOPAGATION  BY   CUTTINGS.  293 

and  excess  of  nitrogenous  food,  is  need.  The  use  of 
cuttings  from  plants  enfeebled  by  disease  will  be  even 
more  disastrous,  as  the  plants  produced  will  not  only  be 
susceptible  to- the  attack  of  the  same  and  other  diseases, 
but  they  may  even  have  the  germs  of  the  disease  within 
them  when  severed  from  the  parent  plant. 

On  the  other  hand,  it  is  always  best  to  propagate 
from  individual  plants  that,  in  their  vigor,  freedom  from 
disease,  prolificacy,  or  in  the  size,  shape  or  color  of  their 


FIG.  96.     IMPROPER  AND  PROPER  CONDITION  OF  STEM     FOR    CUTTINGS. 

flowers  or  fruits,  show  untTSual  merit.  If  such  plants 
are  marked  in  some  way  (Fig.  95),  cuttings  can  be  made 
from  them  at  the  proper  time  and  thus  a  strain  of  pedi- 
gree plants  can  be  established. 

Greenhouse  plants  are  generally  multiplied  by  what 
is  known  as  soft  cuttings  of  the  stems.  They  are  usually 
made  from  terminal  shoots,  although  if  cuttings  lower 
down  the  stem  can  be  obtained  in  the  projier  condition, 
they  will  readily  root  and  make  good  plants. 


294  GREENHOUSE   MA.NAGEMENT, 

While  a  soft,  watery  growth  is  not  desirable,  cut- 
tings  cannot,  as  a  rule,  be  induced  to  root  readily  after 
they  become  woody,  and  the  usual  test  is  to  reject  all 
cuttings  that  when  bent  do  not  snap  off,  rather  than 
crush  down  without  breaking,  the  latter  behavior  indi- 
cating that  the  fibro-vascular  bundles  (woody  fibers), 
have  formed  (Fig.  9G).  Cuttings  made  from  stems  in 
that  condition  root  slowly  and  sparingly,  and  the  plants 
will  be  weaker  than  when  made  from  those  in  tlie 
proper  condition.  For  a  few  plants  like  the  rose,  a 
firmer  condition  of  tlie  wood  is  desirable. 

Soft  cuttings  should  have  a  bud  at  the  top,  and  from 
one  to  three  inches  of  stem.  Unless  a  cutting  can  be 
made  three  inches  long  and  have  its  base  in  proper  con- 
dition, it  will  be  better  to  shorten  it  to  one  inch,  and,  if 
necessary,  the  length  may  be  even 
less,  its  stem  being  principally  of 
^->y-^JM±(iOl0^  value  to  give  a  secure  hold  in  the 
cutting  bed.  Cuttings  of  this  kind 
should  have  at  least  one  leaf,  and 
sometimes  from  two  to  four  are 
left.  Those  at  the  lower  part  of 
the  stem  should  be  removed,  and 
^„,„  ^^ the  others  shortened  in   (Fig.  97). 

FIO.    97.      SOFT    CUTTING  V        &  / 

OF  coLEus.  In  this  way  the  amount  of  evapo- 

ration will  be  checked  and  the  cuttings  can  be  placed 
nearer  together.  Cuttings  sliould  be  so  handled  that 
they  will  not  wilt.  It  is  well  to  use  a  sharp  knife,  nnd 
to  cut  off  the  stem  at  nearly  right  angles.  Neither, 
however,  is  really  necessary,  and  in  many  cases  the  cut- 
tings can  be  broken  off  without  the  use  of  a  knife.  If  in 
the  proper  condition,  most  cuttings  will  root  readily  from 
any  part  of  the  stem,  but  with  others  that  root  with  diffi- 
culty, and  especially  if  they  have  become  too  hard,  it  will 
be  well  to  have  a  bud  near  the  base  of  the  cuttings,  as 
roots  are  most  readily  sent  out  from  near  the  nodes. 


THE  CUTTIKG   BED.  295 

THE   CUTTING   BED. 

Cuttings  root  reudilj  in  sand,  but,  although  the  sil- 
ver sand  that  was  a  few  years  ago  insisted  upon  is  not  a 
necessity,  it  should  be  free  from  organic  matter.  The 
sand  should  also  be  sharp,  and  of  about  medium  fineness  ; 
if  too  fine,  or  too  coarse,  it  should  be  rejected,  as  the  one 
packs  together  and  obstructs  the  entrance  of  air,  while 
the  other  admits  it  too  freely,  and  dries  out  too  readily. 
The  cutting  bed  should  have  sufficient  drainage  to  let  off 
any  surplus  water,  and  bottom  heat  should  be  provided 
in  some  way.  A  narrow  span-roof  house,  or  a  lean-to 
to  the  north  or  east,  makes  a  good  propagating  house. 
It  should  afford  ample  means  of  securing  ventilation. 

The  sand  should  have  a  depth  of  about  three  inches, 
and,  although  not  necessary,  the  best  results  will  be 
obtained  if  it  is  renewed  after  each  batch  of  cuttings  is 
taken  out.  After  the  sand  has  been  thoroughly  wet 
down  and  has  drained  off,  the  cuttings  may  be  inserted. 
They  should  be  placed  in  straiglit  rows  across  the  bed, 
so  that  the  leaves  of  the  cuttings  do  not  quite  touch.  It 
is  a  good  plan,  if  space  permits,  to  have  the  rows  about 
twice  as  far  apart  as  the  plants  are  in  the  rows.  Having 
made  a  narrow  trench  for  the  cuttings,  they  are  inserted 
about  one-half  their  length,  the  sand  is  pressed  firmly 
about  them  and  the  bed  is  wet  down. 

For  the  first  few  days,  it  is  well  to  give  them  at 
least  partial  shade  fi-om  sun,  either  by  placing  lath  or 
cloth  screens  over  the  glass,  or  by  spreading  paper  o'- 
cloth  over  the  cuttings.  With  a  slight  shading  of  the 
glass,  the  latter  can  generally  be  left  off  after  the  first 
week.  "While  precaution  must  be  taken  against  excessive 
watering,  there  is  also  danger  from  allowing  the  bed  to 
dry  out  as,  if  they  wilt,  the  cuttings  are  much  injured. 
Especially  on  summer  days,  an  occasional  slight  sprin- 
kling will  be  beneficial.  The  ventilation  should  be  care- 
fully looked  after,  and  tlie  arrangement  should  be  such 


29G 


GREENHOUSE  .MANAGEMENT. 


as  will  prevent  a  draft  over  tlie  cutting  bed.  As  soon  as 
the  roots  have  reached  a  length  of  half  an  inch,  the  cut- 
tings should  be  potted  into  small  pots  and  will  need  care- 
ful watering  and  shading  for  a  few  days. 

While  the  above  instructions  apply  to  most  plants, 
there  are  a  few  that,  owing  to  some  peculiarity  of  con- 
struction or  growth,  need  different  treatment,  and  among 
them  are  our  common  Pelargoniums  (geraniums),  (Fig. 

98),  and  many  of  the 
cacti  and  other  succu- 
lent plants.  These  are 
more  or  less  succulent, 
and  if  placed  at  once  in 
a  cutting  bed  and  treated 
as  above,  are  likely  to  rot 
off.  After  being  made, 
it  is  well  to  spread  them 
out  and  allow  them  to 
wilt  for  from  one  day  to 
one  week,  and  then  place 
them  in  a  rather  dry 
cutting  bed,  or  they  may 
at  once  be  potted  off, 
using  a  soil  containing 
at  least  one-half  sand. 
If,  after  giving  them  one  thorough  watering,  water  is  with- 
helduntil  they  begin  to  wilt,  cuttings  handled  in  this  way 
will  often  show  smaller  losses  than  when  grown  in  a  cut- 
ting bed.  Many  plants  do  not  strike  readily  unless  in  a 
moist  warm  air,  and  for  such  a  hand  glass  or  propaga- 
ting case  must  be  used. 


GEKANITTM  CUTTING. 


SAUCER    PROPAGATION. 


Another  method  of  rooting  cuttings  that  gives 
excellent  results  when  bottom  heat  cannot  be  secured,  is 
by  placing  them  in  earthenware  pans  of  sand,  two  or 


CUTTINGS.  297 

three  inches  deep,  which  are  kept  constantly  saturated 
with  water.  The  other  treatment,  such  as  the  making 
and  setting  of  the  cuttings,  watering  and  ventihiting,  is^ 
exactly  the  same  as  for  the  cutiing  bed.  Some  of  our 
common  plants,  like  the  oleander,  root  even  better  if 
placed  in  clear  water  than  when  in  a  cutting  bed,  or  tlie 
saucer  with  its  mud. 

Any  kind  of  glazed  earthenware  vessel,  of  a  suitable 
size  and  depth,  may  be  used,  but  if  it  is  unglazed  the 
water  will  need  to  be  much  more  frequently  added. 

EYE   CUTTINGS. 

Many  plants,  such  as  the  dracaanas,  cordylines, 
Dieffenbachias  and  others  that  form  very  few  terminal 
shoots,  have  latent  or  adventitious  buds  upon  their 
stems,  and  if  these  are  cut  into  sections,  about  three 
inches  long,  and  placed  in  a  strong  bottom  heat  in  a 
propagating  case,  shoots  will  soon  be  sent  out,  which 
can  then  be  taken  off  and  rooted  in  sand.  It  is  often 
bene^cial  to  split  the  sections  and  place  them  in  the 
sand  with  the  rounded  side  uppermost.  The  eye  cutting 
used  in  propagating  the  grape  (Fig.  84)  differs  in  having  a 
thin  shaving  of  bark  removed  from  the  side  opposite 
the  bud. 

ROOT   CUTTINGS. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  it  becomes  necessary  to 
multiply  plants  ra]3idly  that  do  not  grow  readily  from 
cuttings  of  the  stems,  and  Avhich  either  increase  in 
number  very  slowly  from  the  roots  or  fail  to  make  good 
plants  when  grown  in  this  way,  and  some  other  form  of 
multiplication  must  be  tried.  If  they  have  a  tendency 
to  sucker  from  the  roots,  we  can  use  what  are  known  as 
root  cuttings.  These  are  made  by  taking  the  roots  of 
such  plants  and  cutting  them  into  pieces  from  one  to 
three  inches  long.  The  pieces  should  be  placed  in  flats, 
either  on  propagating  benches  or  in  hotbeds,  and  covere(3 


298  GKEENHOUSE  MAXAGEMENT. 

with  about  one  inch  of  sandy  soil.  With  bottom  heat, 
they  will  soon  callus  and  send  out  roots  and  one  or  more 
stems.  Tlie  after-treatment  is  the  same  as  for  stem 
cuttings. 

HARD   CUTTINGS. 

Some  plants  root  readily  from  the  wood  of  the  pre- 
vious year's  growth,  even  after  it  has  become  hard,  if 
made  and  callused  while  tlie  stems  are  dormant,  so  that 
they  will  be  ready  to  send  out 
roots  as  the  leaves  appear.  What 
are  known  as  short  cuttings  need 
bottom  heat  to  start  readily,  but 
with  proper  attention  are  excel- 
lent for  the  propagation  of  grapes 
and  other  deciduous  plants  that 
root  readily.  They  are  from  two 
to  three  inches  in  length,  with  a 
strong  bud  near  the  top,  and  with 
a  strip  of  bark  and  a  little  of  the 
wood  removed  from  one  side  for 
about  an  inch  from  the  lower  end 
''''''^(Fig.  85).  They  should  be  in- 
serted in  shallow  boxes  of  sand  with  about  an  inch  of 
rich  compost  in  tlie  bottom,  so  that  the  buds  will  be 
Jnst  covered.  They  need  a  cool  room  where  they  can 
have  a  little  bottom  heat,  but  the  temperature  should  be 
low  enough  to  retard  the  swelling  of  the  bnds  until  after 
tlie  roots  have  appeared.  While  they  must  not  be 
iillowed  to  become  d)-y,  only  a  little  water  will  be  needed 
until  tlie  leaves  appear,  and  an  excess  must  be  avoided, 
A  layer  of  soil  at  the  bottom  of  the  box  or  propagating 
bed  will  permit  of  the  cuttings  remaining  some  con- 
siderable time  in  the  sand,  or  they  can  be  taken  out  at 
once  after  rooting,  and  boxed  or  potted  off. 

Many  of  our  conifers,  such  as  the  im2)roved  varieties 
ol  arbor  vitoe   (Fig.    00),    retinosporas,   junipers   and 


CUTTINGS.  299 

Others,  are  readily  propagated  from  cuttings  of  the 
ripened  wood  made  in  the  winter.  If  they  are  in  any 
way  tender,  it  will  be  best  to  collect  the  wood  in  the 
full  and  pack  it  away  in  moist  sphagnum  in  a  cool  cel- 
lar, until  the  cuttings  can  be  made  up.  In  a  general 
way,  they  are  made  in  about  the  same  way  as  soft  cut- 
tings, but  are  rooted  and  cared  for  more  as  the  short, 
hard  cuttings.  In  the  spring  they  are  planted  out  in 
nursery  rows. 

Long  cuttings  are  from  six  to  eleven  inches  long, 
with  a  bud  at  the  bottom  and  another  about  one  inch 
from  the  upper  end  (Fig.  100).  It  will  be  of  advantage 
if  a  little  of  the  bark  is  removed  near  the  base,  as  was 
recommended  for  the  short  cuttings.  These  cuttings 
should  be  made  in  the  fall,  and  packed  away  in  a  cool 
cellar  or  buried  in  some  well  drained  spot  out  of  doors. 
It  is  generally  customary  to  place  them  in  bundles  with 


FIG.  100.     LONG  CUTTING  OF  GKAPE. 

the  butts  up  and  cover  with  about  two  inches  of  soil, 
over  which  enough  straw  or  other  rubbish  is  placed  to 
keep  out  the  frost.  As  soon  as  severe  freezing  weather 
is  over,  the  mulch  should  be  removed,  and  when  they 
have  callused  the  cuttings  should  be  planted  in  drills 
twelve  to  fifteen  inches  apart,  and  one  to  two  inches  in 
the  rows,  with  the  buds  just  covered.  This  is  a  cheap 
way  of  propagating  grapes,  currants,  gooseberries,  wil- 
lows, poplars,  and  many  shrubs  and  vines. 

HALF-HAKD    CUTTINGS. 

Intermediate  between  the  hard  and  soft  cuttings  are 
those  sometimes  called  *''.half-hard,"  in  which  the  woody 
fibers  have  begun  to  form.  Such  plants  as  the  rose,  and 
many  of  the  shrubs,  when  used  in  a  soft  state,  are  likely 


300  GREEKHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

to  decay  in  the  cutting  bed,  and  with  tlicm  a  somewhat 
firm  condition  of  the  wood  is  desirable.  They  are  made 
in  about  the  same  way  as  the  soft  cuttings  and  require 
the  same  care.  With  many  of  the  shrubs,  it  is  a  good 
phan  to  secure  a  heel  of  the  old  wood,  if  possible,  at  the 
base  of  the  cuttings. 

LEAF    CUTTINGS. 

Several  plants  are  most  readily  grown  from  what  are 
known  as  leaf  cuttings,  among  the  plants  propagated  in 
this  way  are  the  rex  begonias,  gloxinias,  and  bryo- 
phyllum.  If  a  leaf  of  bryo]ihyllum  be  placed  on  a  cut- 
ting bed,  the  buds  along  tlie  margin  will  develop  and 
send  out  stems  and  roots.  The  small  i)lants  can  then 
be  detached  and  potted.  A  rex  i_begonia  leaf  can  be 
made  to  develop  buds  fi-oni  any  of  the  larger  veins. 
The  leaves  may  be  cut  into  strips  of  a  fan  shape  an  inch 
or  so  in  width,  severing  as  many  of  the  main  ribs  as 
possible,  and  by  inserting  them  edgewise  in  the  cutting 
bed,  small  plants  wdl  soon  form.  Another  way  is  to 
place  the  entire  leaf  upon  the  surface  of  the  bed,  sever- 
ing the  larger  veins  at  intervals  of  two  inches,  and  either 
pegging  them  down,  or  sprinkling  a  little  sand  over  them. 
The  gloxinia  may  be  grown  as  above,  or  the  entire  leaf 
may  be  used  as  a  cutting  by  inserting  the  end  of  the 
petiole  in  the  sand. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

PROPAGATION   BY   LAYERING,    GRAFTING  AND  BUDDING. 

Layers  differ  from  cuttings  only  in  being  rooted 
while  still  attached  to  tlie  plant.  Many  of  the  soft 
wooded  plants  that  have  long,  slender  branches  can  be 
readily   rooted   by  pegging  them  down  upon  a   propa- 


GEAFTIifG.  "Ox 

gating  bed  and  covering  the  nodes  with  sand.  Most  of 
the  climbing  and  trailing  vines  start  readily  in  this  way. 
The  layering  of  hard  wooded  plants  can  be  hastened  by 
removing  a  ring  of  bark,  or  making  a  tongue  npon  the 
branch  at  the  point  where  the  roots  are  desired.  The 
tongue  should  be  an  inch  or  a  little  more  in  length, 
pointing  towards  the  main  plant,  and  include  something 
less  than  half  the  thickness  of  the  stem,  and  may  be  on 
either  the  upper  or  the  under  side,  the  former  being  per- 
haps preferable,  as  there  will  be  less  danger  of  the  break- 
ing of  the  stem. 

The  old  method  of  layering  stems  that  were  too  stiff 
to  bend  down  was  to  fasten  a  flower  pot  filled  with  sandy 
soil  about  them,  but  while  this  method  is  now  somewhat 
used,  a  better  way  is  to  bind  green  sphagnum  about  the 
stem,  after  having  partially  girdled  it,  or  pierced  it  to 
the  center  in  a  number  of  places  with  a  knife.  If  the 
sphagnum  is  thoroughly  moistened  when  bound  on,  and 
is  frequently  watered,  roots  will  soon  be  sent  out.  It  is 
a  good  plan  to  fasten  around  the  sphagnum  a  strip  of 
cloth,  in  such  a  way  as  to  form  a  sort  of  saucer  and 
thus  prevent  the  water  from  running  off.  When  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  roots  have  formed,  the  layers  should  be 
cut  off,  and,  after  any  loose  sphagnum  has  been  shaken 
off,  carefully  potted.  Until  the  plant  has  established 
itself  in  the  soil,  it  should  be  kept  in  a  propagating  case, 
or  in  a  small  room  where  the  air  can  be  kept  moist,  and 
all  drafts  of  air  avoided.  Frequent  sprinkling  of  the 
foliage  will  also  be  desirable. 

GRAFTING. 

A  graft  differs  from  a  cutting  mainly  in  forming  a 
callus  and,  after  thus  joining  itself  to  another  plant, 
taking  up  its  food  through  the  roots  of  the  host  (the 
stock)  rather  than  through  roots  which  it  formed  for 
itself.     This  method  of  multiplying  plants  is  practice<3 


^j'Z 


GKEENHOUSE  MAIiJ'AGEMENT. 


with  many  that  cannot  be  readily  grown  from  cuttings 
or  layers,  and  for  which  seed  cannot  be  used,  either 
because  they  cannot  be  readily  obtained,  or  because  they 
do  not  reproduce  the  desired  varieties. 

Grafting  is  performed  just  as  the  grow^th  of  the 
stock  is  beginning,  and  while  the  cion  is  still  dormant. 
The  cions  are  made  from 
the  last  season's  growth,  and 
are  from  three  to  four  inches 
long,  with  a  bud  near  the 
upper  end.  If  in  the  right 
condition,  for  success  m 
grafting  we  only  need  to 
bind  the  cion  upon  the  stock 
in  such  a  way  that  the  cam- 
bium of  one  will  at  some 
I  jk  C        point    be    in    contact   with 

' '''  '«'        that  of  the  other,  and  cover 

the  cut  surface  so  that  they 
will  not  suffer  from  evap- 
oration. 

The  more  common  kinds 
of  grafting  are,  first,  the 
sj^lice,  in  whicli,  as  the  name 
indicates,  the  stock  and  cion 
(which  should  be  of  about 
the  same  size)  are  cut  at 
their  ends  with  a  long  bevel,  and  are  bound  firmly 
together ;  second,  the  tongue  or  whip  graft  (Fig.  101), 
whicli  differs  from  the  splice  only  in  having  the  ends  so 
split  as  to  form  tongues,  and  they  are  then  put  together 
so  that  the  tongues  of  one  will  be  in  the  split  in  the 
other,  and  bound  in  place  ;  third,  the  cleft  graft,  whicli 
is  used  upon  large  stocks,  by  inserting  a  cion  with  its 
lower  end  cut  wedge  shape,  into  a  cleft  in  the  middle  of 
the  top  of  the  stock,  which  has  been  cut  off  at  right 


FIG.  101.     TONGUE  OR  WHIP 
GRAFTING. 


GEAFTING. 


303 


angles,  so  that  the  bark  at  the  outer  edge  of  the  cion 
will  be  in  contact  with  the  bark  of  the  stock  ;  if  the 
stock  is  large,  cions  may  be  inserted  upon  both  edges 
(Fig.  102). 

For  greenhouse  work,  the  method  known  as  side 
grafting  (Fig.  103)  is  especially  yaluable.  The  stock  is 
prepared  by  making  a  slanting  downward  cut  about  an 
inch  long  in  the  side  of  the  stock ;  it  should  penetrate 
far  enough  towards  the  lower  end  to  separate  the  cam- 
bium layer  of  wood.     The  cion  should  be  cut  about  the 

same  as  for  a  cleft 
graft,  except  that 
the  wedge  should  be 
about  one-half  lon- 
ger on  the  inner 
side  than  on  the 
outer.  Wh e n  p u sh ed 
into  place  the  tongue 
on  the  stock  should 
cover  the  end  of  the 
cion  and  hold  it  in 
place.  A  modified 
form  of  this  method 
of  side  grafting  is 
known  as  veneer 
Fia.  102.  CLEFT  GRAFTING.  grafting,  aud  while 

it  is  perhaps  more  likely  to  give  a  perfect  union,  it  neces- 
sitates holding  the  cion  in  place  Avhile  tying  it.  The 
cuts  upon  the  stock  are  made  just  as  in  ordinary  whip 
grafting,  but  the  tongue  is  cut  with  a  slanting  stroke, 
so  that  it  is  only  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch,  or  slightly 
less,  in  length.  The  lower  end  of  the  cion  is  cut  off  at 
an  angle  of  45  degrees,  and  the  bark  and  a  little  of  the 
cambium  are  removed  for  about  one  inch  at  the  end  of 
the  longer  side  of  the  cion.  The  cion  is  then  placed 
against  the  stock  so  that  the  tongue  upon  the  stock  will 


304 


GBEEXHOUSE  MAKAGEMENT. 


cover  the  end  of  the  cion,  and  it  is  bound  in  place. 
Either  of  these  methods  of  side  grafting  will  be  found 
particularly  desirable  for  grafting  the  choice  varieties 
of  ornamental  trees,  both  evergreen  and  deciduous. 
If  the  stocks  are  in  pots  they  can  be  given  a  rest  during 
the  early  winter  and  then  started  into  growth  so  that 
they  can  be  worked  in  January  and  February. 

Many  propagators  have  found  difficulty  in  the  dry- 
ing out  of  the  cions  of  conifers  before  the  callus  forms, 
but  if  they  are  placed  on 
their  sides  upon  a  shallow 
bed  of  wet  sphagnum, 
where  they  will  have  a 
little  bottom  heat,  and 
the  pots  and  grafts  are 
then  covered  w^itli  the 
same  material,  the  mois- 
ture will  be  retained  and 
the  failures  will  be  very 
few.  The  same  course 
can  be  pursued  to  ad- 
vantage Avith  choice  de- 
ciduous trees.  The  stocks 
should  be  cut  back  to 
FIG.  103.  SIDE  GRAFTING.  gomc  cxteut  at  the  time 

of  grafting  and  as  soon  as  growth  has  commenced  the 
remaining  portion  may  be  cut  away.  Many  other  kinds 
of  grafting  have  been  practiced  at  various  times  and  by 
different  propagators,  but  none  produce  better  results 
than  the  methods  here  described. 

In  all  cases  except  when  large  stocks  are  cleft  grafted 
it  will  be  necessary  to  wrap  the  graft  with  wax  string, 
raffia,  or  yarn,  in  order  to  bind  the  cion  and  stock  ifirmly 
together.  Care  should  also  be  taken  that  all  cuts  are 
smooth  and  true,  and  a  sharp  knife  with  an  even  be\ei 
from  the  back  to  the  edire  of  the  blade  should  be  used. 


GEAFTIXG   WAX.  30.^ 


GRAFTING  WAX. 


When  the  graft  is  made  upon  a  stock  at  a  point 
below  tlie  level  of  the  soil^  there  will  be  no  necessity  of 
covering  the  cut  surfaces  with  any  other  material,  as 
the  moist  soil  will  answer  tlie purpose.  Whenever  the  graft 
is  made  at  a  point  where  it  will  not  he  covered  by  the 
soil,  some  prej^aration  should  be  used  to  prevent  the 
evaporation  of  water  from  the  cut  surfaces.  For .  this 
purpose,  nothing  is  better  than  grafting  wax.  There 
are  many  formulas  for  this  mastic,  most  of  which  con- 
tain varying  proportions  of  resin,  beeswax  and  tallow,  or 
linseed  oil.  As  a  cold  wax  to  be  used  with  the  hands,  a 
good  proportion  is,  four  parts  resin,  two  parts  beeswax 
and  one  part  of  tallow  or  linseed  oil.  After  melting,  it 
should  be  poured  into  water  and  left  to  cool  until  it  can 
be  held  in  the  hands,  which  should  be  well  oiled.  It 
should  then  be  pulled,  the  same  as  candy,  until  it  takes 
on  a  light  yellow  color,  after  which  it  can  be  made  into 
sticks  of  convenient  size  for  use.  This  will  be  found  of 
the  right  consistency  for  use  in  a  warm  room,  or  in  warm 
weather  outside.  For  use  out  of  doors  in  cold  weather, 
the  wax  should  have  one  part  less  of  resin  (three  parts 
resin,  tw'o  of  beeswax  and  one  of  tallow)  and  should  be 
well  worked  before  it  is  taken  out. 

As  a  thin  mastic,  to  be  applied  with  a  brush,  or  the 
fingers,  some  of  the  alcoholic  waxes  may  be  used.  They 
contain  about  10  parts  white  resin,  and  one  part  beeswax 
(or  one  part  tallow)  melted  together  ;  after  removing 
from  the  fire  and  partially  cooling,  stir  in  enough  alco- 
hol to  give  the  right  consistency.  Keep  in  a  tight  bot- 
tle to  prevent  evaporation. 

BUDDING. 

Propagation  by  means  of  buds  is  only  a  modification 
of  that  by  grafting,  and  in  fact  it  is  often  called  bud- 
grafting,  or  shield  grafting.     It  consists  in  the  insertion 
2Q 


3o(i 


GREEXUOUSE  MANAGEMEKT. 


of  a  piece  of  bark,  containing  a  bud,  under  the  barK  of 
another  phmt  of  the  same  or  a  closely  related  species. 
The  plant  upon  which  the  bud  is  placed  is  known  as 
the  stock  and  it  should  be  in  a  growing  condition,  so 
that  the  bark  will  lift  readily.  The  bud  should  be  dor- 
mant, firm  and  well  developed.     In  preparing  the  cion. 


FIG.   104.     BUDDING. 


the  leaves  should  be  cut  off  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch 
from  the  bud,  as  shown  in  the  illustration  (Fig.   104). 

In  the  open  ground,  budding  is  generally  performed 
toward  the  end  of  the  period  of  growth,  the  buds  being 
those  that  have  developed  that  season,  but  in  the  green- 


BUDDING.  307 

house  it  is  done  in  the  winter  or  early  in  the  spring. 
The  stocks  are  ripened  off,  and  given  a  rest  until  Jan- 
uary, when  tl)ey  are  brought  into  growth  and,  as  soon 
as  the  bark  will  slip,  the  budding  is  performed,  using 
buds  that  have  been  kejjt  dormant.  A  "  T"  shaped  cut 
is  made  in  the  bark,  generally  as  near  the  collar  as  possi- 
ble, and  the  corners  are  lifted  up  so  as  to  permit  the 
insertion  of  the  bud.  In  removing  the  bud  from  the 
cion,  the  cut  is  started  about  half  an  inch  below  the  bud 
and  is  continued  upward  so  as  to  take  off  a  thin  shaving 
of  the  wood  until  it  is  about  half  an  inch  above  the  bud, 
where  the  strip  is  cut  off.  The  lower  edge  of  the  bark  is 
inserted  beneath  the  bark  of  the  stock,  and  the  bud  is 
pushed  down  as  far  as  it  will  readily  go.  For  many 
plants  it  is  fully  as  well,  or  better,  to  remove  the  shaving 
of  Avood  from  the  bud  before  i)lacing  it  in  the  stock.  If, 
however,  it  cannot  be  done  without  injuring  the  bud, 
the  wood  should  not  be  removed. 

It  should  then  be  wrapped  with  raffia  so  as  to  press 
the  bark  of  the  stock  firmly  down  around  the  bud.  As 
a  rule,  two  or  three  turns  below  and  two  above  the  bud 
will  be  sufficient ;  care  should  be  taken  in  wrajiping  not 
to  cover  the  bud,  which  should  be  in  sight  between  the 
edges  of  the  bark.  A  portion  of  the  top  of  the  stock 
should  now  be  cut  off,  to  check  the  growth  and  promote 
a  union  with  the  bud,  and  as  soon  as  the  bud  has  formed 
leaves  of  its  own,  the  remainder  of  the  stock  should  be 
cut  away.  While  almost  any  form  of  knife  can  be  used 
for  budding  if  it  is  sharp,  the  regular  budding  knives 
have  thin  blades  and  rounded  points.  Unless  it  has  at 
the  end  of  the  handle  a  piece  of  ivory  to  be  used  in  lift- 
ing the  bark  of  the  stock,  the  point  of  the  blade  can 
be  arranged  to  seiTe  for  this  purpose,  by  slightly 
rounding  it. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

INSECTS   OF  THE   GREENHOUSE. 

Few  of  our  greenhouse  plants  are  free  from  the 
attack  of  insects,  and  many  of  them  are  greatly  injured 
by  parasitic  fungi,  so  that  constant  watchfulness  is 
necessary  if  they  are  to  be  kept  in  a  healthy  condition. 
In  this  chapter  we  shall  describe  some  of  those  that  are 
most  troublesome,  and  give  remedies  for  their  destruction. 
It  should  be  mentioned,  however,  that  if  pro2)er  care  is 
given  to  the  selection  of  the  stock  fiom  which  the  plants 
are  propagated,  and  if  attention  is  paid  to  providing 
them  with  suitable  soil,  a  congenial  temperature  and  the 
necessary  amount  of  water  and  fresh  air,  the  plants  will 
not  only  be  more  likely  to  escape  attack,  but  will  be 
much  less  injured  if  the  insects  and  diseases  appear. 

It  will  be  found  that  the  fungicides  are  for  the  most 
part  intended  for  use  as  preventives  rather  than  cures, 
and  to  bo  effectual  will  need  to  be  applied  before  the  dis- 
ease has  any  hold  upon  the  plants.  The  same  thing 
is  true  with  many  of  the  insecticides,  to  the  extent  that 
they  are  most  effective  before  the  insects  have  reached 
their  full  development.  Another  reason  for  the  early 
application  of  the  remedies  against  both  insects  and  dis- 
eases is  that  they  multiply  very  rapidly  and  if  not  checked 
at  the  start  they  may  propagate  and  become  so  numerous 
that  much  harm  may  be  done. 

In  making  a  choice  of  insecticides,   we   should  be 

guided  by  the  nature  of  the  insect  for  which  it  is  to  be 

used.     Thus  against  many  insects  that  take  their  food 

by  biting  off  and  chewing  the  leaves,  the  arsenites,  siicU 

308 


THE   APHIS.  309 

as  Paris  green  and  Loudon  purple,  will  be  found  efficient, 
while  for  the  sucking  insects,  which  are  more  trouble- 
some in  the  greenhouse,  we  shall  need  to  rely  upon  kero- 
sene emulsion,  tobacco,  whale-oil  soap,  pyrethrum  and 
other  remedies  that  act  upon  the  exterior,  or  the  breath- 
ing apparatus  of  the  insects. 

THE   APHIS. 

This  insect  and  its  allies  embrace  a  great  variety  of 
forms,  all  of  which  may  be  included  under  the  common 
name  of  plant  lice  or  "fly."     While  most  of  them  are  of 
a  green  color,  some  forms,  such  as  chrysanthemum  aphis, 
are  black  in  color,  and  in  some  cases 
we  find  a  blue  aphis  upon  the  roots 
of  plants.     They  have  long,  slender 
antennae  or  feelers,  a  small  head,  a 
full,  round  thorax  or  chest,  and  gen- 
erally a  very  large,   round   abdomen. 
From  near  the  end  of  the  abdomen, 
two  tubes  project,  from  which  the  so- 
called  honeydew  exudes  (Fig.    105). 
During  the  early  part  of  the  season, 
the  female  aphides  give  birth  to  liv- 
FiG.  105.  WINGLESS     {npr  femalc  young:  these   propagate 

FEMALE  APHIS.  »  •'  »       ,  i 

very  rapidly  until,  as  fall  approaches, 
when  eight  or  ten  broods  have  been  produced,  both 
males  and  females  appear.  This  brood,  only,  has  wings 
(Fig.  106).  The  eggs,  produced  as  a  result  of  pairing 
serve  to  carry  the  species  over  winter.  It  has  been  esti- 
mated that  from  a  single  individual  a  quintillion  could 
develop  in  one  season. 

Aphides  seem  to  thrive,  in  particular,  upon  plants  in 
partial  shade  and  poor  ventilation.  The  best  way  of 
destroying  them  is  by  means  of  tobacco  smoke,  extract, 
or  tea.  All  of  these  should  be  used  upon  the  first 
jippearance  of  the  aphides,  as,  if  they  are  allowed  to  reach 


310 


GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


full  size,  they  are  hard  to  destroy.  As  a  preventive, 
greenhouses  should  be  fumigated  once  or  twice  a  week  if 
insects  are  troublesome.  Kerosene  emulsion,  and 
buhach,  either  as  a  powder  or  in  water,  are  also  quite 
effectual.  The  black  chrysanthemum  aphides  are  even 
more  difficult  to  destroy  than  the  green  fly,  and  tobacco 
will  have  but  little  effect,  if  they  once  get  their  growth  ; 
the  remedies  last  given  will,  however,  be  found  effectuah 
The  black  aphis  of  the  violet  is  quite  troublesome 
in  some  sections,  but  can  be  readily  destroyed  with  hy- 


FIG.  106.     WINGED  MALE  APHIS. 

drocyanic  acid  gas,  as  can  the  gall  fly  which  attacks  the 
violet  leaves. 

The  blue  aphis  sometimes  appears  upon  the  roots  of 
plants  that  have  in  some  way  been  stunted,  particularly 
if  they  have  been  kept  unduly  dry.  The  plants  should 
be  shaken  out,  placed  in  whale-  oil  soap  solution,  and 
repotted  in  fresh  soil. 

PLANT  BUGS. 

When  plants  are  housed  in  the  fall  some  of  the  in- 
sects that  have  been  working  ujion  them  out  of  doors 
may  be  housed  with  them.  Among  the  most  common 
are  the  Yellow-lined  plant  bug  and  the  Tarnished  plant 
bug.    They  feed  upon  a  iiumbey  of  plants  and  some- 


INSECTS  OF  THE  GREENHOUSE. 


311 


times  do  much  harm  by  sucking  the  sap  from  the  buds 
and  tender  shoots.     To  destroy  them,  use  kerosene  emul- 
sion upon  plants  that  will  stand  it,  or  in  its  jilace  spray 
with  whale-oil  soap  solution,  or  tir-tree  oil. 
ALEYRODES  {White  Flies). 

Allied  to  the  aphides  are  the  Aleyrodes  or  ''white 
flies,"  as  they  are  usually  called,  which  sometimes  appear 
in  large  numbers  in  the  greenhouse  and  do  considerable 
injury.  The  perfect  insects  are  winged  in  both  sexes, 
but  instead  of  being  vertical,  as  in  the  aphis,  their  wings 
are  outspread.  In  the  larvae  and  pupae,  there  is  a  strong 
resemblance  to  young  scale  insects,  and  they  injure  the 
leaves  by  puncturing  them  and  sucking  the  sap.  The 
eggs  can  often  be  found  in  large  numbers  on  the  under- 
side of  the  leaves.  Soap  is  not  entirely  effectual,  and  it 
will  be  better  to  rely  upon  kerosene  emulsion  and  simi- 
lar remedies. 

fuller's  ROSE  BEETLE  {Armiiigus  Fulleri). 
A  few  years  ago  great  harm  was  done  to  roses  in 
greenhouses  by  Fullei-'s  Rose  beetle  (Fig.  107,  a),  which 
was  often  spoken  of  as  "the  rose  bug."     The  mature 


FIG.  107.     FULLER'S  ROSE  BEETLE. 

a,  adult ;  h,  larva  ;  c,  pupa. 

insect  is  about  half  an  inch  in  length,  and  of  a  gray 
color.  It  conceals  itself  upon  the  stem  or  under  the 
leaves,  from  which  it  eats  semi-circular  pieces,  and  when 


313  GKEENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

its  work  is  noticed,  tlie  beetles  should  be  bunted  and 
destroyed  ;  in  this  way  tliey  can  generally  be  held  in 
check.  The  beetles  deposit  their  eggs  on  the  stems  near 
ihe  ground,  and  the  larvae  pass  down  and  feed  on  the 
roots,  where  they  may  become  so  numerous  as  to  destroy 
the  plants.  The  liberal  use  of  wood  ashes  will  do  much 
to  hold  them  in  check,  but  the  plants  should  be  taken 
out  and  burned,  the  soil  removed  and  the  benches  thor- 
oughly whitewashed,  if   they  become  very    numerous. 

RED  SPIDER  {Tetranychus  telarius  Linn.) 

Few  insects  seem  to  have  so  little  choice  in  tlieir 
host  plants  as  the  red  spider  (Fig.  108),  as  they  not  only 
attack  plants  in  the  greenhouse  and  garden,  but  also  in 
the  field  and  forest.  They  are  very  minute,  being  rathei 
less  than  one-twentieth  of  an  inch  in 
length,  and  vary  in  color  from  green  and 
yellow  while  immature,  to  dark  red  in 
their  adult  form,  with  small  greenish 
spots  upon  their  sides. 

The  red  spider  spins  a  fine  web  upon 
the  leaves  of  plants,  under  the  protection 
of  which  they  feed.     They  have   stouii 
FIG.  108.  j^ws  or  mandibles,   by  means  of  which 

BED  SPIDER.  |-|j^y  j-gj^j.  awjiy  thc  cuticlc  of  the  leaves, 
and  also  a  barbed  sucking  apparatus,  which  is  used  to 
take  the  food  from  the  leaves.  Numbers  of  these  insects 
upon  a  leaf,  sucking  out  its  juices,  cause  it  to  turn  yellow 
and  finally  to  drop  from  the  plant.  The  first  sign  of  the 
working  of  this  insect  is  in  the  taking  on  by  the  leaves 
of  a  light  green  color,  and  the  apjiearance  of  minute 
yellowish  spots. 

This  insect  thrives  in  a  hot,  dry  atmosphere,  and 
its  appearance  can  generally  be  prevented  if  thc  houses 
are  properly  ventilated  and  syringed.  If  the  spider  does 
appear,  steps  should  at  once  be  taken  to  destroy  it.     If 


INSECTS   OF   THE   GREENHOUSE.  313 

the  ventilators  are  kept  closed  for  awhile  on  bright 
mornings  and  the  walks  and  jDlants  thoroughly  syringed, 
the  conditions  will  be  nufavoiable  to  the  red  spider  and 
the  numbers  can  in  this  way  be  reduced.  When  the 
warm  days  of  spring  and  summer  come  on,  a  similar 
treatment  in  the  afternoon  is  often  advisable.  Another 
remedy  that  is  entirely  effectual  and  quite  easy  to  use 
is  evaporated  sulphur.  If  this  is  applied  thoroughly 
once  or  twice,  it  will  rid  the  plants  from  these  pests. 

THE   THRIPS. 

The  insects  grouped  under  this  name,  although 
quite  small  in  size,  are  often  the  source  of  considerable 
trouble  in  the  greenhouse,  as  well  as  upon 
fruits  and  grains.  They  have  long,  slender 
bodies  (Fig.  100)  and  generally  four  wings; 
these  are  also  long  and  narrow  and  of  nearly 
equal  size  and  shape,  with  a  fine  hair-like 
fringe  around  their  edges.  In  most  cases  the 
wings  are  without  veins,  except,  perhaps,  one 
or  two  longitudinal  midribs.  The  antennse 
109.  are  long  and  slender,  with  generally  from 
THRIPS.  geyen  to  nine  joints.  In  tlieir  mouth  parts 
they  resemble  both  the  true  bugs  and  the  Orthoptera,  or 
grasshopper  group,  as  they  are  adapted  for  both  biting 
and  sucking.  They  resemble  the  adult  in  both  the  lar- 
val and  pupal  forms,  and  when  full  grown  they  are 
slightly  less  than  one-tenth  of  an  inch  in  length.  They 
are  sometimes  light  yellow,  but  are  generally  brown  or 
black,  with  the  extremity  of  the  abdomen  in  some  cases 
bright  red.  The  antennae  and  legs  are  usually  light 
colored  ;  as  larvae  and  pupae  most  of  the  forms  are  of  a 
yellowish- white. 

Thrips  do  considerable  injury  in  the  greenhouse,  as 
they  eat  holes  in  the  leaves  and  flowers  and  suck  the 
juices.     They  are  especially  injurious  to  the  rose,  car- 


314  GREENHOUSE  MAISTaCxEMENT. 

nation,  lily  and  azalea.  As  a  remedy,  the  hose  should  be 
used  freely  on  bright  days,  and  if  this  does  not  suffice, 
it  is  well  to  make  free  use  of  whale-oil  soap,  kerosene 
emulsion,  or  evaporated  sulphur.  The  vapor  of  tobacco 
can  also  be  used  with  good  effect,  as  can  Paris  green. 
When  they  have  become  imbedded  in  the  flowers,  the 
buds  should  be  picked  off  and  burned.  HeUothrijts 
li(Bmorrlioidis,  Bowd,  is  sometimes  quite  troublesome 
upon  crotons,  and  Coleothrips  trifasciata,  Eitch,  is 
another  troublesome  greenhouse  si)ecies. 

SCALE   INSECTS. 

Although  at  first  these  insects  have  but  little  resem- 
blance to  the  aphides  to  which  they  are  closely  related, 
a  careful  compaiison  of  the  different  organs  will  show 
that  in  many  im^Dortant  particulars  the  resemblance  is 
quite  marked. 

The  simplest  forms  of  these  insects  are  the  mealy 
bugs  (Fig.  110),  so-called  from  the  fact  that  they  cover 
themselves  with  a  white  cottony 
substance.  The  female  mealy 
bug,  one  of  the  most  common  of 
which  is  Dactylopius  adonidiim 
(Linn.)  Signoret,  does  not  change 
its  form,  and  except  in  size  is 
much  the  same  in  appearance  at 
all  stages.  When  about  to  lay  its 
eggs,  it  attaches  itself  by  means  of 
its  beak  to  the  surface  of  a  leaf, 
or  stem,  secretes  a  mass  of  long, 
cottony,  tuft-like  particles  of  wax 
FiG.no.  MEAI.YBUG.      ^^.^^^^^^^  ^j^^  ^j^^  ^f  ^j^^  abdomcu, 

beneath  which  the  eggs  are  deposited.  In  addition  to 
this,  the  antennae,  legs  and  each  segment  of  the  body 
have  shorter  appen'^.ages.  From  each  lateral  segment 
they  appear  as  short  bristles,  while  those  at  the  rear  end 


INSECTS   OF  THE   GREENHOUSE.  olj 

of  the  body  are  considerably  elongated,  often  being  as 
long  as  the  body  itself.  The  male  undergoes  a  transfor- 
mation, and  covers  itself  with  a  thick  cottony  mass.  It 
is  of  a  brown  color,  with  long  grayish  wings. 

Another  form,  known  as  the  Destructive  mealy  bug 
{Dadylopius  destructor),  of  a  yellowish-brown  color, 
with  seventeen  short,  stout,  lateral  appendages  iii)on 
each  side  of  its  flattened  body,  with  a  very  thin  waxy 
covering.  This  form  has  been  particularly  destructive  to 
orange  trees.  The  form  known  as  D.  longifilis  differs 
principally  in  having  longer  appendages,  there  being  two 
in  particular  upon  each  side  of  the  rear  end  of  the 
abdomen  that  are  as  long  as  the  entire  body. 

All  of  these  forms  of  mealy  bugs  thrive  in  close,  hot 
and  dry  air,  and  particularly  like  to  conceal  themselves 
in  a  corner  or  in  a  tliick  tangle  of  vines.  The  conditicms 
that  favor  their  development  should  be  avoided,  and 
where  the  plants  can  be  reached  a  free  use  of  the  hose 
with  a  powerful  spray  will  often  blow  them  off  from 
the  leaves.  Kerosene  emulsion,  where  it  can  be  brought 
in  contact  with  the  mealy  bugs,  is  also  a  powerful  insec- 
ticide, as  is  also  fir  tree  oil  and  other  commercial  com- 
pounds. On  many  stove  plants,  with  large  delicate 
leaves,  the  use  of  a  stiff  brush  and  dilute  kerosene  emul- 
sion, or  whale-oil  soap,  is  preferable. 

The  genus  Aspidiotus,  to  which  a  large  number  of 
true  scale  insects  belong,  differs  in  lacking,  in  most  spe- 
cies, the  waxy  covering.  They  are  of  a  yellowish  or 
brownish  color.  At  ti  rst  the  larvae  are  active,  but  soon  they 
form  a  scale  and  fix  themselves;  after  molting  a  number  of 
times  they  reach  full  size,  when  they  arc  covered  with  a 
thick,  firm  shell.  Eggs  are  now  deposited  and,  on  hatch- 
ing, the  second  brood  starts  on  the  road  to  development. 
In  some  cases  there  are  as  many  as  five  broods  a  year. 

Closely  related  to  Aspidiotus,  and  often  classed  with 
it,  are  such  other  genera  as  i^ms^is,  CMo7iaspts,  Mytila- 


31G  GliEENUOLSE   MANAGEMENT. 

spis,  Lecanium,  and  others  which  differ  iirincipally  in  the 
shape,  or  the  markings  of  the  scale.  They  are  all  suck- 
ing insects  and  must  be  killed  by  the  use  of  kerosene 
emulsion  and  similar  remedies.  Using  hydrocyanic  acid 
gas  is  among  the  most  effective  methods  of  treating 
them.  The  males  are  nearly  all  winged,  but  the  fe- 
males have  but  little  power  of  locomotion,  being  wing- 
less and  with  but  poorly  developed  legs.  While  often 
found  upon  plants  that  seem  in  perfect  health,  as  a 
rule,  weak,  unhealthy  plants  are  most  likely  to  be  at- 
tacked, and  are  most  injured  by  them. 

SLUGS,    SNAILS    AND   SOW    BUGS. 

The  damage  done  by  the  above-named  animals  is 
often  very  great,  especially  by  the  slugs,  which  seem  to 
delight  in  eating  off  young  seedlings.  In  modern  well- 
built  houses  they  are  far  less  troublesome  than  in  the 
old  style  of  houses,  that  are  generally  damp,  dark  and 
with  more  or  less  of  rotting  wood.  If  flats,  bits  of  board 
and  other  rubbish  are  not  allowed  to  lie  around  under 
the  benches,  there  will  be  little  danger  of  their  appear- 
ance in  houses  that  are  well  lighted  and  properly  venti- 
lated.  Neatness,  then,  should  always  be  used  as  a  preven- 
tive. If  they  make  their  appearance,  they  can  often  be 
held  in  check  by  sprinkling  air-slaked  lime  over  as  well 
as  under  the  benches.  This  Avill  help  both  in  drying  up 
the  suriilus  moisture  and  by  its  caustic  action  destroy  or 
drive  away  the  slugs  and  similar  animals.  "Traps"  are 
also  quite  useful,  as,  by  placing  cabbage  or  lettuce  leaves 
where  they  are  numerous,  the  slugs  and  sow  bugs  will 
collect  beneath  them  and  if  they  are  sprinkled  with  Paris 
green  many  of  them  will  be  killed.  Sweetened  bran  also 
has  an  attraction,  particularly  for  the  slugs,  and  the 
addition  of  Paris  green  will  soon  clean  them  out.  Bits 
of  carrot  poisoned  with  some  arsenite  are  also  good  traps 
for  sow  bugs. 


IKSECTS  or  THE   GREEXHOUSE.  317 

While  we  should  always  encleavor  to  make  the  sur- 
roundings uncongenial  to  them  by  keeping  all  rubbish  and 
litter  i)icked  up,  if  they  do  make  their  appearance  they 
can  readily  be  brought  under  control  by  any  of  the 
methods  given.  What  are  commonly  known  as  ''Thou- 
sand Legged  Worms"  are  often  found  with  the  above. 
They  are  Myriapods,  and  Julus  virgatus  is  among 
the  most  common  species.  They  feed,  as  a  rule,  upon 
decaying  matter,  but  sometimes  attack  the  roots,  bulbs 
and  fleshy  stems  of  plants.  They  can  generally  be  de 
stroyed  if  baited  with  slices  of  poisoned  vegetables. 

EEL   WORMS. 

Florists  have  often  found  what  they  called  "root 
galls"  ui^on  the  roots  of  roses  and  other  plants,  but  have 
not  known  what  the  real  cause  was.  They  are  often  due 
to  the  workings  in  the  root  of  a  microscopic  worm  called 
from  its  appearance  an  "eel  worm."  They  luxuriate  in 
warm,  moist  surroundings,  and  a  rose  house,  especially 
if  kept  unnecessarily  warm,  and  if  the  beds  are  over- 
watered,  gives  them  the  very  conditions  they  prefer. 
In  filling  the  beds,  care  should  be  taken  that  fresh  soil  is 
obtained,  and  the  roots  of  the  rose  and  other  plants 
should  be  examined,  to  ascertain  that  they  are  free  from 
galls.  If  they  once  get  into  a  bed  they  will  increase 
rapidly  and  the  plants  will  take  on  an  unhealthy 
appearance. 

No  satisfactory  remedy  is  known,  although  air- 
slaked  lime  and  kainit  sprinkled  over  and  worked  into 
the  beds  have  been  used  with  fair  success  in  some  places. 
Care  should  be  taken  in  applying  kainit,  but  one  pound 
per  one  hundred  scpiare  feet  can  be  used  with  safety  upon 
roses.  Frost  is  also  valuable  as  a  natural  enemy  of  the  eel 
worm.  Various  other  plants,  including  the  violet, 
tomato  and  carnation,  are  often  seriously  troubled  by 
this  pest. 


318  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

MUSHROOM    ENEMIES   AND   DISEASES. 

The  mushroom  grower  does  not  find  it  all  smooth 
sailing,  as  his  crops  are  attacked  by  a  number  of  insects 
and  other  enemies,  against  many  of  which  he  has  no 
remedy  except  to  give  the  houses  a  scrupulous  cleaning 
each  summer.  Little  attention  has  been  given  to  the 
scientific  study  of  the  enemies  of  this  crop,  and  many 
may  exist  of  which  we  have  no  knowledge.  Most  of  the 
pests  of  which  we  know  injure  the  mushrooms  by  eat- 
ing holes  in,  or  biting  off  small  pieces  from,  the  tender 
caps  ;  among  these  are  the  sow  bugs  or  wood  lice,  slugs, 
mice  and  other  vermin. 

One  of  the  most  troublesome  of  these  pests  is  the 
mushroom  maggot.  It  is  about  one-fourth  of  an  incli 
long,  and  is  the  larval  form  of  a  fly.  It  burrows  through 
the  stems  and  caps  of  tender  buttons,  and  in  the  full- 
sized  mushrooms  the  brown  lines  running  through  the 
tissues  are  distinctly  seen.  The  maggots  appear  in 
April,  and  make  it  impossible  to  grow  the  ordinary 
mushroom  in  the  summer.  It  also  attacks  the  new 
mushroom  {Agaricus  riifescens),  but  from  the  rapid 
growth  of  this  species  much  less  injury  is  done.  If  one 
has  a  cave  or  cool  cellar,  they  can  be  grown  later  in  the 
season  than  if  the  beds  are  in  a  warm  place,  but  it  is 
even  then  about  impossible  to  escape  their  attack  be- 
tween April  and  October.  No  lemedy  that  is  now  known 
will  destroy  them  ;  insect  powder,  kainit,  salt  and  other 
insecticides  seem  to  have  no  effect  upon  them. 

The  so-called  ^'black  spot"  shows  itself  as  black  or 
brown  spots  or  streaks  upon  the  top  of  the  caps  ;  it  is 
also  most  tronblesome  during  thesnmmer  months.  The 
diseased  appearance  is  caused  by  minute  eel  worms  which 
enter  the  plants  while  they  are  quite  small,  and  which 
generally  infect  all  in  one  clnmp.  They  are  most 
troublesome  in  old  beds  and  seldom,  if  ever,  appear  in 
properly  made  new  ones.     As  soon  as  they  are  through 


INSECTS  OP  THE   GREENHOUSE.  310 

bearing,  the  old  beds  sliould  be  tlirown  out,  and  new 
ones  made  entirely  from  fresh  materials.  If  the  worms 
have  been  present,  the  walls  and  floor  should  be  thor- 
oughly whitewashed,  and  all  decaying  matter  and  dis- 
eased mushrooms  should  be  removed  at  orce.  By  the 
free  use  of  lime  and  salt,  the  green  mold  in  which  they 
multiply  can  be  kept  down.  Boiling  water  is  also 
recommended  for  this  purpose,  to  be  applied  to  the 
walls,  floors,  boards,  and  sparingly  to  the  surface  of  the 
beds,  before  the  mushrooms  appear. 

One  of  the  most  common  and  troublesome  diseases 
of  the  mushroom  is  known  as  "fogging  off."  It,  how- 
ever, seems  to  be  a  secondary  trouble,  as  it  as  a  rule  only 
attacks  muslirooms  that  have  been  injured  iu  some  way. 
If  the  bed  is  too  wet,  or  too  dry,  or  if  the  surface  is  dis- 
turbed in  such  a  way  as  to  loosen  the  young  mushrooms, 
they  will  fog  off,  so  that  the  disease  seems  to  partake  of 
a  fungous  as  well  as  of  a  bacterial  nature. 

The  so-called  "flock"  is  even  more  to  be  dreaded. 
It  is  caused  by  one  or  more  fungi  that  attack  the  gills  of 
the  mushrooms.  They  become  thick  and  hard,  and  are 
often  distorted.  The  conditions  that  favor  the  devel- 
opment of  the  disease  are  not  understood  and  the  only 
known  treatment  is  to  destroy  the  spawn  upon  which  a 
diseased  mushroom  appears. 

In  growing  mushrooms,  much  can  be  done  to  ward 
off  the  attacks  of  these  Viirious  diseases  and  insects  by 
keeping  tlie  house  clean  and  free  from  litter  and  rubbish  ; 
the  beds  should  be  removed  as  soon  as  through  bearing, 
and  in  the  new  beds  only  fresh  material  should  be  used. 

If  the  atmosphere  is  too  dry,  mushrooms  are  some- 
times injured  by  a  species  of  mite,  closely  related  to  the 
"red  spider,"  but  as  they  are  only  troublesome  under 
the  above  conditions,  the  way  to  prevent  their  apjoear- 
ance  and  of  freeing  the  beds  of  their  presence  will  be  at 
once  apparent. 


330  GREENHOUSE   MAKAGEMENT. 

FUMIGATION    WITH    HYDROCYANIC    ACID   GAS. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  effective  methods  of  destroy- 
ing insects  in  the  greenlionse  and  other  places  where  the 
air  can  be  confined,  but  it  should  be  used  with  the  great- 
est caution,  as  the  fumes  are  fatal  to  all  animal  life. 
Every  precaution  should  be  taken  against  the  i^ossibility 
of  anyone  entering  the  house  where  the  gas  has  been 
used,  until  it  has  been  dissipated. 

The  gas  treatment  has  for  several  years  been  used 
for  scale  insects  in  California,  but  it  was  not  until  1896 
that  it  was  used  to  any  extent  in  greenhouses.  It  was 
then  tried  experimentally,  by  Professor  Galloway  and  his 
assistants  of  the  United  Htates  Department  of  Agricul- 
ture, with  very  satisfactory  results,  as  it  cheaply  and 
effectually  destroyed  all  the  insects  in  the  houses,  includ- 
ing several  species  that  can  be  effectually  reached  in  no 
other  way,  without  injuiy  to  most  plants.  The  treatment 
is,  as  yet,  in  its  experimental  stage,  but  it  has  progressed 
so  far  that  for  many  j)lants  the  amount  that  can  be 
used  has  been  determined,  and  methods  of  producing  the 
gas,  with  the  least  risk  and  to  secure  the  best  results, 
have  been  found. 

The  houses  should  be  tight,  and  so  arranged  that 
the  ventilators  can  be  raised  without  entering  the  house. 
The  gas  is  produced  by  the  action  of  sulphuric  acid  upon 
cyanide  of  potassium  in  the  presence  of  water.  The 
experiments  show  that  for  violets,  coleus,  many  of  the 
ferns,  Ficiis  elafitica,  crotons,  etc.,  four  ounces  of  chem- 
ically pure  (98  per  cent)  potassium  cyanide,  six  ounces 
of  commercial  sulphuric  acid,  and  six  ounces  of  water 
can  be  used  for  each  1,000  cubic  feet  of  space.  Roses, 
chrysanthemums  and  tomatoes  are  injured  by  this 
amount,  and  furtlier  experiments  are  required  to  deter- 
mine the  exact  quantity  that  can  be  used  with  safety. 
It  is  also  well  to  have  a  box  in  which  cuttings  and  small 


FUMIGATION.  321 

plants  can  be  placed  for  fumigation.  If  this  is  made  to 
contain  ten  cubic  feet,  about  one  dram  of  the  cyanide 
and  one  and  one-half  drams  each  of  the  sulphuric  acid 
and  water  will  be  required. 

For  use  in  a  greenhouse,  it  will  be  well  to  wet  the 
glass,  so  as  to  close  as  many  of  the  cracks  as  possible. 
Night  should  be  selected,  as  tlie  action  of  light  and  the 
usual  high  temperature  of  tlie  daytime  will  increase  the 
chance  of  injury  to  tbe  plants,  and  lessen  the  injury  to 
insects.  The  plants  should  be  on  the  dry  side,  and  the 
air  moderately  cool.  At  intervals  of  from  thirty  to 
forty  feet,  place  in  the  walk  a  tall  two-gallon  earthen  jar. 
Thus,  for  a  house  ohe  hundred  feet  long,  three  jars  will 
be  required,  unless  it  is  very  narrow,  or  very  wide,  when 
the  number  should  be  decreased  or  increased  accordingly. 
In  each  jar  place  a  proportionate  part  of  the  water  re- 
quired for  the  house,  and  then  carefully  add  an  equal 
amount  of  suljihuric  acid.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to 
allow  any  of  the  acid  to  come  in  contact  with  the  cloth- 
ing, or  person,  as  it  is  very  acrid  and  will  destroy  any- 
thing that  it  touches. 

The  amount  of  cyanide  of  potassium  required  for 
each  jar  should  be  weighed  out  and  placed  in  paper  bags, 
and  just  before  it  is  to  be  used  it  should  be  placed  inside 
another  larger  bag,  to  prevent  any  danger  of  the  bag 
giving  way  while  preparations  are  being  made.  Screw 
eyes  are  then  fastened  in  the  woodwork  directly  over 
each  jar,  and  through  these  stout  cords  are  run  to  the 
end  of  the  house  near  the  door,  where  they  are  fastened. 
To  the  ends  over  the  jars  tie  the  bags  of  cyanide,  so 
that,  on  the  ends  of  the  strings  at  the  door  being  re- 
leased, they  will  drop  into  the  jars.  When  all  is  ready, 
close  the  ventilators,  pass  to  the  end  of  the  house  and 
carefully  lower  the  bags  into  the  jars  and  close  the  door. 
If  any  of  the  cyanide  drops  into  the  acid  while  in  the 
house,  hold  the  breath  and  get  out  of  the  house  as  soon 
21 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


FUMIGATION.  323 

as  possible,  as  to  inhale  the  gas  is  fatal.  After  twenty- 
five  minutes,  open  the  houses  for  at  least  half  an  hour, 
but  do  not  enter  even  then  unless  obliged  to,  except 
with  caution.  At  the  usual  price  of  pure  cyanide  of 
potassium,  30  to  35  cents  per  pound,  and  of  commercial 
sulphuric  acid,  which  can  be  bought  in  quantity  at 
three  or  four  cents  per  pound,  the  cost  of  fumigating  a 
greenhouse  will  not  be  more  than  12  to  15  cents  per 
1000  cubic  feet.  Wiiile  it  is  very  useful  in  destroying 
aphides,  it  is  a  particularly  valuable  remedy  against 
insects  and  mealy  bugs. 

One  of  the  first  uses  to  which  it  was  put  was  the 
destruction  of  white-tailed  mealy  bugg  [Orthezia  insignis) 
upon  coleus,  which  had  refused  to  yield  to  other  reme- 
dies. Its  next  extensive  use  was  for  the  black  violet 
aphis,  in  the  houses  of  Mr.  W.  G.  Saltford,  Poughkeepsie, 
IS.  Y.  (Fig.  Ill),  the  results  of  which,  as  reported  in 
The  Florist's  Exchange,  were  very  satisfactory. 

The  same  remedy  is  also  much  used  ujjon  nursery 
stock  that  has  been  dug  for  shipment.  An  air-tight 
shed  arranged  for  ventilation  is  required.  While  in  a 
dormant  condition  the  trees  will  stand  a  stronger  gas 
than  will  tender  greenhouse  plants.  One  ounce  of  the 
cyanide  of  potassium  and  one  and  one-half  ounces  each 
of  water  and  sulphuric  acid  can  be  used  with  safety  for 
each  one  hundred  and  fifty  cubic  feet.  For  the  San 
Jose  scale  a  second  treatment  will  be  desirable,  but  one 
application  wull  suffice  for  all  other  insects.  The  same 
care  about  inhaling  the  fumes  should  be  used  here  as  in 
a  greenhouse. 


CHAPTEE  XXYI. 


DISEASES  OF  GREENHOUSE   PLAINTS. 


FUNGOUS  DISEASES  OF  THE  ROSE. — BLACK  SPOT. 

{xictinonema  rosm,  Fr.). 

This  disease,  wliicli  is  the  cause  of  tlie  Wack  spots 
that  are  so  commonly  seen  upon  tlie  leaves  of  moss  and 
hybrid  roses  in  wet  seasons,  frequently  invades  the  green- 
house and  causes  the  leaves  of  the  tea  roses  to  take  on  an 
unhealthy  appearance  and  finally  to  drop  from  the  stems. 
Its  development  here  seems  to  be  invited  by  the  same 
conditions  as  in  the  open  ground.  If  the  bed  is  poorly 
drained,  or  has  been  over- watered,  a  drop 
in  the  temperature  below  50  degrees  is 
likely  to  cause  the  fungus  to  appear.  The 
"spot"  when  first  seen  is  of  a  dark  brown 
color,  with  an  irregular  margin  (Fig. 
112);  it  rapidly  enlarges  and  in  a  short 
time  the  portion  of  the  leaf  around  the 
spot  takes  on  a  sickly  yellow  color  and 
the  leaf  drops.  A  magnified  section  of 
the  leaf  is  seen  in  Fig.  113.  The  dark 
bodies  (A)  are  the  outer  layer  of  epider- 
mal cells,  the  contents  of  which  have  been 
changed  by  the  fungus  into  a  dark  brown  granular  sub- 
stance, which  can  be  seen  through  the  transparent 
cuticle  of  the  leaf,  and  gives  it  a  brown  or  black  ap- 
pearance. The  mycelium  also  penetrates  the  underlying 
cells  and  draws  its  nourishment  from  them,  thus  break- 
ing down  the  tissues  and  causing  the  surrounding  por- 
324 


FIG.  112. 
ROSE   SPOT. 


DISEASES   0^   GREEXHOUSE   PLANTS.  325 

tions  of  the  leaves  to  take  on  a  brown  color.  The 
spores  of  the  fungus  are  developed  on  the  mycelium, 
just  beneath  the  cuticle,  and,  as  this  finally  bursts  and 
rolls  back,  they  appear  as  at  B.  When  magnified  500 
diameters,  the  spores  are  seen  to  be  two-celled  (B)  and 
oblong  in  shape.  If  they  fall  upon 
a  damp  rose  leaf  they  will  germinate 
and.  cause  another  "spot"  to  form. 
For  the  destruction  of  this  fungus, 
a  perfect  remedy  is  found  in  Bor- 
deaux mixture,  except  for  its  giving 
the  plants  a  wliitewaslied  appear- 
ance. The  copper  carbonate  solu-  fig.  lis.  black  spot, 
tion  is  nearly  as  effectual  and  does  SecUon  magn.fied. 
not  have  this  fault.  Evaporated  sulphur  will  also  keep 
the  disease  in  check.  As  in  most  otlier  cases,  prevention 
will  be  found  the  best  cure,  and  to  effect  this  have  the 
beds  Avell  drained,  avoid  over-watering  and  maintain  a 
regular  temj^erature  of  from  56  to  GO  degrees,  according 
to  the  requirements  of  the  variety. 

POWDERY  MILDEW  OF  THE  ROSE  {SphcBrotluca  panuosa.) 

This  common  disease  of  the  rose  appears  as  a  mealy 
or  powdery  covering  upon  the  young  leaves,  and  if  the 
attack  is  severe  they  become  twisted  and  distorted,  and 
the  disease  even  affects  the  stems.  It  develops  rapidly 
upon  the  young  leaves,  its  mycelium  forming  a  fine  cob- 
web from  which  the  spore-bearing  stalks  are  sent  up. 
These  stalks  or  h yph^e  become  constricted  and  break  up 
into  oval  bodies — the  spores,  which  are  so  numerous  as  to 
form  a  fine  ijowder  upon  the  leaves,  v/hence  the  name  of 
the  fungus.  This  disease  has  another  form  of  repro- 
duction, the  spores  of  which  are  formed  in  the  fall  and 
are  designed  to  carry  the  disease  through  the  winter. 
The  spores  are  in  sacs,  which  ai'e  themselves  enclosed  in 
a  thick  sac  known  as  a  theca.     The  Avinter  spore  cover- 


326  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

ing  lias  for  its   distingnislniig  feature  sliort  irregular 
threads  that  project  from  it. 

Like  many  other  diseases,  tliis  fungus  is  seldom 
troublesome  unless  there  is  some  inducing  weakness  in 
the  plants,  and  an  excessive  amount  of  water,  an  excess  of 
nitrogenous  matter  in  the  soil  and,  particularly,  cold 
drafts  of  air  upon  the  j^lants,  will  hardly  fail  to  induce 
its  appearance.  Being  entirely  superficial  in  its  growth, 
this  mildew  is  easily  kejit  in  check.  The  fumes  of  sul- 
phur are  fatal  to  it,  and  it  is  well  to  always  paint  the 
heating  pipes  witli  a  sulphur  wash  ;  sulphur  evaporated 
by  means  of  an  oil  stove,  or  by  the  heat  of  the  sun,  will 
also  be  easy  to  use,  as  by  the  last  method  one  has  only 
to  apply  the  sulphur  to  the  plants  with  a  bellows  and 
allow  the  temperature  to  run  up  to  70  degrees  befoi-e 
opening  the  ventilators  ;  in  airing  the  house  after  giving 
this  treatment,  it  should  be  done  gradually,  so  as  to 
avoid  cold  drafts. 

KOSE  RUST  [Pltragmidium  mucronaium.     Winter). 

Although  this  fungus  sometimes  attacks  tea  roses,  it 
is  principally  troublesome  upon  hybrid  i:)erioetual  and 
other  hardy  kinds.  It  first  shows  as  light  yellow  spots 
on  both  sides  of  the  leaves,  or  upon  the  stems.  The 
epidermis  is  soon  ruptured  and  granular  pustules  are 
formed.  On  th.e  leaves  these  are  generally  quite  small, 
but  as  they  are  very  numerous  and  frequently  coalesce, 
the  leaves  are  often  destroyed.  When  upon  the  veins, 
petioles  or  stems,  the  spots  often  extend  themselves 
longitudinally  and  cover  a  considerable  surface.  In 
that  case  the  stems  and  leaves  become  twisted  and 
distorted. 

At  first  the  pustules  are  of  an  orange-yellow  color, 
and  the  spores  are  si)herical  or  slightly  angular  in  form, 
and  are  arranged  in  chains.  Each  group  is  surrounded 
by  elongated  bodies  called  paraphyses,  which  form  a  cup- 


DISEASES  OF   GREEKHOUSE   PLAKTS.  327 

shaped  cavity  iu  which  the  spores  are  formed.  This 
constitutes  what  is  known  as  the  ascidio  stage  of  the  rust. 
Later  in  the  season  the  pustules  take  on  a  reddisli  color, 
and  spores  that  are  then  present  are  of  about  the  same 
size  and  shape  as  the  secidio  sjiores,  but  they  are  covered 
with  minute  spines  and  are  arranged  singly  upon  short 
stalks  or  basidia.  Towards  the  end  of  summer,  the  red- 
dish spots  are  replaced  by  minute  black  bristle-like 
tufts,  in  which  the  winter  or  teleutosporcs  are  found. 
These  are  compound,  being  separated  by  ci'oss  partitions 
into  from  five  to  ten  cells,  and  are  borne  upon  compara- 
tively short  stalks,  which  are  thickened  toward  their 
base. 

The  aecidiospores  and  uredospores  serve  for  the 
reproduction  of  the  fungus  during  the  summer.  If  the 
conditions  are  favorable,  they  germinate  readily,  but  if 
kept  dry  for  a  few  weeks  they  lose  their  power. 

It  is  the  function  of  the  teleutosporcs,  with  their 
thick  cell-walls,  to  carry  the  fungus  through  the  winter, 
and  in  the  spring  they  germinate,  sending  out  thickened 
tubes  which  bear  at  their  ends  small  globular  bodies 
called  sporidia,  which  are  light  and  easily  borne  about 
by  the  wind,  and  thus  serve  for  the  dissemination  of  the 
fungus.  If  they  fall  upon  rose  leaves,  they  quickly 
germinate,  and  soon  produce  new  rust  spots. 

If  the  disease  appears  upon  a  plant,  the  affected 
branch  should  be  cut  off  and  burned.  By  spraying  with 
Bordeaux  mixture  and  other  copper  compounds,  tlie 
spread  of  the  disease  can  be  prevented,  Tlie  so-called 
Rose  Phragmidium  (P.  speciosum,  Fjies)  is  closely  allied 
to  the  above,  but  differs  in  confining  itself  to  the  stems 
and  seldom  infecting  the  leaves.  It  forms  its  regular 
black  masses  of  spores  late  in  the  season  upon  the  stems. 
These  spores  (teleutosporcs)  differ  from  those  of  the 
rose  rust  in  having  long,  slender  stalks.  The  spots  fre- 
quently  surround  the  stems,  thus  completely  girdling 


328  GREEKIIOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

them.     The  remedies  will  be  tlie  same  as  for  the  rose 
rust. 
ANTHKACNOSE  OF  THE  ROSE    {Gloposjjorium  vosarum). 

Like  many  other  plants,  the  rose  has  its  anthracnose, 
which  sometimes  proves  very  trouhlcsome.  The  spores, 
falling  iii)(>n  the  young  tender  canes,  germinate,  and 
si)reading  through  tlie  tissues  destroy  the  cells  and  even 
girdle  the  canes.  The  circulation  is  thus  cut  ofE  to  a 
greater  or  less  extent,  and  many  if  not  all  of  the  leaves 
drop  from  the  plant.  The  disease  manifests  itself  at 
the  exterior  in  the  form  of  minute  pimples  in  wliich  the 
spores  are  formed.  They  are  transferred  to  other  plants 
in  water.  Other  blotches  can  be  found  upon  the  leaves, 
particularly  upon  those  that  have  fallen  upon  a  damp 
surface. 

The  spores  readily  germinate,  and  as  they  are  pro- 
duced in  great  abundance,  the  disease  may,  under  favora- 
ble conditions,  spread  very  rapidly.  Tlie  spread  of  the 
disease  seems  to  be  toward  the  tijis  of  the  branches,  and 
frequently 'apparently  healthy  shoots  appear  at  the  base 
of  diseased  ones.  As  soon  as  the  disease  appears  upon  a 
plant,  the  infected  i)orti()ns  should  be  cut  off  and  burned. 
As  the  Bordeaux  mixture  and  copper  compounds  are 
fatal  to  the  spore  development  of  fungi,  the  spread  of 
the  disease  can  be  prevented  by  thoroughly  spraying  the 
plants.  This  disease  is  closely  related  to  the  anthrac- 
nose of  the  raspberry,  and  its  development  is  both 
invited  and  hastened  by  such  nnfavorable  conditions  as 
poorly  drained  or  exhausted  soil. 

FUNGOUS    DISEASES   OF   THE    CARNATION. 
CARNATION   RUST. 

This  destructive  disease  {Uromyces  caryophyllmus), 
has  long  been  known  in  Europe,  but  although  it  had 
undoubtedly  appeared  here  previous  to  that  time,  its 
nature  was  not  known  in  this  country  until  the  fall  of 


FUIfGOUS  DISEASES   OF  THE  CAKKATIOK. 


329 


1890,  when  the  writer  received  from  a  Michigan  florist 
a  number  of  diseased  leaves,  with  an  inquiry  as  to  the 
nature  of  tlie  fnngus  and  a  remedy  for  it.  The  plants 
had  been  recently  received  from  Massachusetts,  and 
recognizing  the  danger  of  spreading  the  disease,  he  was 
advised  to  destroy  all 
plants  that  were  badly 
infected,  and  to  re- 
move from  the  others 
all  leaves  that  showed 
any  pustules,  carefully 
b u rn i  11  g  bo th  plants 
and  leaves,  and  then 
to  spray  the  remaining 
plants  with  a  fungi- 
cide. This  fungus  is 
closely  related  to  the 
rust  of  grains  and 
grasses,  and  ceems  to 
revel  upon  plants 
grown  in  poorly  ven- 
tilated houses,  or  that 
have  I'eceived  a  check 
in  some  way,  particu- 
larly if  the  plants  are 
syringed  at  such  times 
as  will  allow  the  water 
to  stand  on  the  leaves 
and  branches  at  night. 
It  enters  the  jdant  and 

develops  there  without  fig.  ii4.   cahnation  rust. 

manifesting  its  iiresence,  until  a  pustule  is  formed  just 
beneath  the  epidermis.  The  spot  takes  on  a  grayish  ap- 
pearance, and  the  membrane  soon  becoming  ruptured, 
the  mass  of  brownish  spores  is  seen.  Tliey  are  produced 
in  great  quantities  and  appear  like  fine,  brown,  dust- 


330 


GKEENHOUSE  JMAXAGEMENT. 


ief   ^ 


like  particles.  The  pustules  are  often  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  or  even  more  in  length,  and  are  of  an  elliptical, 
oval,  or  sometimes  of  a  crescent  shape,  and  form  on 
I)  )th  sides  of  the  leaves  and  even  on  the  stems  (Fig.  Hi). 
Th3  spores  are  of  tu'o  kinds,  one  of  which,  the 
iiredospores  (Fig.  115  a),  are  round  or  elliptical,  and  show 
a  few  scattei-ed  spines  under  the  miscroscopc.  They 
will  germinate  at  once  if  they  fall  on  a  moist  surface  arid 
if  the  moisture  is  on  a  carnation  plant,  the  germ  tubes 
will  penetrate  the  epidermis,  and  work  their  way  among 
the  tissues,  break  down  the  cells,  absorb  the  juices  and, 
having  made  their  growth,  develop  a  new  mass  of  spores, 
thus  completing  a  cycle  in  per- 
haps two  weeks.  The  other 
sjiores,  known  as  teleutnspores 
(Fig.  115,  b),  are  somewhat 
darker  in  color  than  the  others, 
and  are  more  oval  in  shape,  be- 
sides lacking  the  spines  found 
upon  the  uredospores.  Some 
varieties  seem  more  subject  to 
this  disease  than  others,  and 
jilants  with  firm  tissues  are  less 
than  others  of  the  same  variety 
!S.  As  water  is  required  for  the 
development  of  the  fungus,  syringing  should  only  be 
done  on  sunny  days  and  in  the  morning,  that  the  plants 
may  dry  off  before  night.  In  damp  weather,  the 
ventilation  should  be  thorough,  and  if  moisture  stands 
(Ml  the  plants,   the  fire  heat  should  be  increased. 

To  grow  plants  free  from  rust,  they  should  be  of  a 
strong  constitution  and  from  a  healthy  stock.  Prefer- 
ably, as  stated  in  the  chapter  upon  carnation  culture, 
they  should  be  taken  from  plants  that  have  not  been 
long  in  flower,  and  that  have  not  been  grown  in  a  high 
temperature. 


FIG.  115.      SPORES  OF  CAU- 
SATION   KUST. 

likely  to  be  attacked 
with  soft  watery   leave 


PUl^GOUS  DISEASES   OF  THE   CARNATIOIS".  331 

"Wlien  tlie  cuttings  are  made,  dip  them  in  a  solution 
of  liver  of  sulphur  (one  ounce  to  three  gallons),  and 
root  tliem  in  clean  sand  at  a  low  temperature  (48  or  50 
degrees).  Before  potting  off,  spray  them  in  the  cutting 
bed  with  a  solution  of  copper  sulphate,  using  a  fine 
sjiray  that  will  cover  both  sides  of  all  the  leaves.  If  the 
disease  is  troublesome,  it  will  be  well  to  repeat  the  appli- 
cation every  two  weeks  throughout  the  year,  until  the 
plants  are  thrown  out.  If  one's  stock  has  been  free  from 
rust  it  will  only  be  necessary  to  watch  it  carefully  and 
on  the  first  appearance  of  the  pustules  to  pick  off  and 
burn  the  infected  leaves  and  thoroughly  spray  the  plants, 
keei3ing  it  up  at  intervals,  as  above,  until  the  disease  has 
been  checked. 

The  carnation  has  a  leaf  that  will  withstand  the  use 
of  a  much  stronger  application  of  copper  sulphate  than 
most  other  plants,  and  while  we  have  kept  the  disease 
in  check  with  a  solution  of  one  part  of  the  copper  sul- 
phate in  one  thousand  parts  of  water,  if  the  disease  has 
obtained  a  firm  hold,  it  will  be  well  to  double  the  strength 
of  the  solution. 

If  the  ]ilants  are  grown  on  solid  benches  during  the 
summer,  and  are  thus  saved  the  shock  of  transplanting, 
the  chances  of  the  appearance  of  the  disease  will  be 
lessened.  The  fungicides  can  at  best  only  prevent  the 
spread  of  the  disease,  and  if  a  plant  is  found  to  be  badly 
diseased,  it  should  be  destroyed,  and  the  diseased  leaves 
removed  from  the  others  as  soon  as  the  pustules  show. 

SPOT   OR   BLIGHT   OF   CARNATIONS. 

{Septoria  dianthi  Desm.) 

Like  many  of  tlie  other  fungous  diseases  of  plants, 
the  nature  of  this  disease  is  not  generally  understood, 
and,  although  it  is  becoming  quite  commonly  distributed, 
its  presence  is  not  recognized  by  florists.  The  spots  are 
generally  of  a  circular  form,  except  when  upon  the  edges 


332  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

of  the  leaves,  when  they  are  oblong  or  semi-circnlar. 
The  centers  of  the  spots  are  grayish -l)rown  in  color,  with 
margins  that  have  a  purplish  tinge  (Fig.  110,  a).  Upon 
the  liglit  portion  of  the  spots,  minnte  black  dots  will 
soon  appear  ;  the  mycelium  of  the  fungus  has  developed 
within  the  leaf,  and  these  points  are 
projections  from  the  flask-shaped 
concoptacles  in  which  the  spores 
are  formed  (Fig.  110,  d).  An  en- 
larged spore  case  is  shown  at  b  and 
the  spores  themselves  are  seen  at  c. 
'c  The  spores  are  quite  slender  and, 
enclosed  in  a  viscid  substance,  ooze 
out  through  the  opening,  to  be  dis- 
solved in  water  and  scattered  to  the 
FIG.  116.    SPOT  DISEASE  neighboring  plants,  or  they  may  be 

OF  CARNATIONS.  ,      ,  ,  i  J!       •  J?i.          j.1 

taken  up  by  currents  oi  air  after  the 
water  has  evaporated.  The  watering  of  the  plants  with 
a  strong  stream  of  water,  through  a  hose,  will  be  likely 
to  scatter  the  spores,  and  if  they  fall  in  a  drop  of  water 
on  a  carnation  leaf,  they  will  quickly  germinate  and 
cause  other  spots.  If  the  flower  stems  ore  affected,  the 
growth  is  likely  to  be  checked  and  on  the  leaves  the 
eifect  is  to  contract  and  weaken  them,  the  spots  turn 
brown  and  they  become  bent  and  twisted  (Fig.  117). 

If  taken  in  time,  when  the  diseiise  first  appears,  the 
application  of  fungicides  will  tend  to  keep  it  in  check. 

ANTIIKACNOSE   OF   CARNATIONS  (  Voluti'lla  diaittlll). 

The  nature  of  this  disease  was  pointed  out  in  1891, 
by  Dr.  B.  D.  Halsted,  who  thought  it  to  be  CoUeto- 
trichum  diantlii  ;  the  later  investigations  of  Prof.  Atkin- 
son, however,  would  seem  to  show  that  it  can  more 
properly  be  referred  to  the  genus  VoJuteUa.  It  causes  a 
rapid  decay  of  the  affected  portions  and  the  warmth  and 
damp  of  the  cutting  bench  seem  particularly  favorable 


FUNGOUS  DISEASES   OF  THE  CARNATION.  333 

for  its  development  and  spread,  as  a  spore  will  germi- 
nate, develop  a  mycelium  and  produce  a  crop  of  spores 
within  three  days. 

While  particularly  injurious  to  cuttings,  it  often 
causes  serious  injury  to  the  growing  plants,  where  it  is 
most  commonly  found  upon  the  lower  portions  of  the 
stems  and  the  clasping  bases  of  the  leaves  and  leaf 
sheaths.     The  diseased  portions  shrivel,  turn  brown  and 


FIO.  117.     EFFECT  OF  "SPOT"  ON  CARNATIONS. 

at  length  are  dotted  with  black,  rosette-like  clusters  of 
spores  (Fig.  118,  a) ;  these  stools  owe  their  color  and 
general  appearance  to  the  develoj^ment  of  a  number  of 
long,  black  bristles.  Fig.  118,  b,  shows  a  section  through 
one  of  these  fruit  clusters  gi-eatly  magnified,  the  spores 
being  much  shorter  than  the  bristles.  The  germinating 
spores  still  more  magnified  are  shown  at  c. 


334 


GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 


The  disease  is  most  troublesome  when  the  plants  ara 
grown  in  a  poorly  drained  and  over-watered  soil,  par- 
ticularly if  the  stems  and  leaves  form  a  dense  mat  at  the 
base.  While  the  fungus  is  generally  confined  to  the 
stems  and  leaves  that  are  upon  or  close  to  the  damp 
soil,  the  effect  is  sometimes  seen  npon  the  upper  leaves. 


FIG.  118.  ANTHKACNOSE  OF  THE  CARNATION. 

b  Spores  and  bristles.  c  Spores  geriniiiating. 

(a  natural  size  ;  b  and  c  greatly  niagiiifled.) 

which  will  have  a  sickly  appearance,  and  the  stems  will 
not  develop  flowers. 

FAIRY    RING    SPOT   OF   CARNATIONS. 

[Heterosporium  ecliintilafum  [Berk.]  Cooke). 

This  disease  was  described  aud  figured  in  the  Gar- 
dener's Chronicle  for  1870  by  Mr.  Berkeley,  but  it  has 
only  recently  been  observed  in  this  country.  The  spores 
appear  in  concentric  rings  that  develop  centrifugally, 


FUNGOUS   DISEASES   OF  THE   CARNATION. 


335 


much  as  does  the  well-known  ''fairy  ring."  The  myce- 
lium developing  within  the  tissues  causes  them  to  take 
on  a  light  yellow  color.  Just  beneath  the  epidermis, 
dark  brown  swellings  appear  upon  the  mycelium,  from 
which  the  fruiting  threads  (Fig.  119)  are  sent  out 
through  the  cuticle.  These  are  produced  in  great  num- 
bers from  a  single  spot  and  gives  it  a  dark  brown  appear- 
ance. A  single  spore  (Fig.  130)  is  produced  at  the 
extremity  of  each  thread ;    these  are  generally  four- 


FIG.  119.     FAIKY  RING  SPOT  OP  CAR- 
NATION, FRt/ITING  THREADS. 

(Greatly  inagnifled.) 


FIG.  120.     SPORES  OF  FAIRY  SPOT. 

b   Spores  geiniinatiiig 

(Greatly  magnified.) 


celled,  but  may  vary  from  one  to  five,  and  are  covered 
with  minute  spines.  Germ  tubes  (Fig.  120,  B)  may  be 
sent  out  from  each  cell  of  the  spores.  The  mycelium 
continues  its  development  and  finally  forms  another  set 
of  fruiting  hyphae,  generally  in  a  circle  around  those 
first  produced.  In  this  way  the  disease  can  be  distin- 
guished from  the  carnation  rust,  with  which  a  careless 
observer  might  confound  it. 


GREENHOtrSE   MANAGEMENT. 


FIG.    121.        CABNA- 
TION     LEAF    MOLD. 


CARNATION  LEAF  MOLD  {Clados])orium  sp.). 
This  disease  shows  itself  in  miuute  circular  spots,  per- 
haps one-tenth  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  upon  the  leaves. 
They  may  become  sufficiently  numerous  to  destroy  the 
leaves  attacked.     At  first  they  are  of  a  gray  color  and 
hear  a  dense  growth  of  mold,  consisting 
of  fruiting  threads,  iTpon  the  extremities 
of  which  the  spores  are  borne  (Fig.  121). 
These  fall  off  and  the  spots  become 
darker  in  color.     The  disease  is  thought 
to  be  Cladosporium  lierharum  var.  nodo- 
sum, by  Prof.  Atkinson. 

It  is  particularly  troublesome  upon 
plants  in  poorly  dra^'ned  soil  and  where 
care  is  not  taken  in  watering  and  syring- 
ing. Under  proper  conditions  and  when 
the  plants  are  only  syringed  early  in  the 
day,  there  slionld  be  no  serious  trouble 
from  the  disease,  while  if  it  does  make  its  appearance 
the  usual  fungicides  will  hold  it  in  check. 

BOTRYTIS   OR    ROT   OF   CARNATIONS. 

When  the  houses  are  kept  quite  warm  and  the  soil 
and  air  are  damp,  the  open- 
ing buds  and  the  petals  of 
the  expanded  flowers  soften 
and  turn  yellow,  and  soon 
become  covered  with  a  slimy 
mold.  This  is  the  work  of 
a  fungus  known  as  Botrytis 
(Fig.  122,  J),  which  devel- 
ops an  immense  number  of 
spores  (Fig.  122,  B).  The 
temperature  and  moisture 
should  be  regulated,  all  dis- 
eased portions  should  be  destroyed,  and  the  plants 
sprayed  with  cnpram,  or  a  solution  of  copper  sulphate. 


22.       BOTRYTI8     OF    CARNA" 

TIONS  (^magiiitied). 


FUNGOUS  DISEASES   OF  THE   CARNATION.  337 

BACTERIOSIS   OF   CARNATIONS. 

Aside  from  the  rust,  no  disease  of  the  carnation  is 
more  to  be  dreaded.  It  appears  upon  the  immature 
leaves  as  small,  circular  and  slightly  sunken  yellowish- 
white  spots;  but  before  the  spots  appear,  by  holding  thr 
leaves  up  to  the  light,  minute,  translucent  dots  can  be 
seen.     Sometimes  watery  pimples  form,  but  at  any  rate 


FIG.  123.     BACTEKIOSIS  OF  CARNATIONS. 

the  tissues  affected  soon  dry  out  and  sink  beneath  the 
surface  of  the  leaf.  The  spots  enlarge  and  the  leaves 
wither  (Fig.  123). 

The  "  disease "  was  observed  by  Prof.  Arthur  of 
Purdue  University  in  January,  1889,  but  it  was  not  until 
more  than  a  year  later  that  he  was  able  to  announce 


338  GEEExnousr:  management. 

what  he  considered  to  be  tlie  cause.  From  the  fact  tliat 
he  found  bacteria  present  it  was  thought  to  be  of  a 
bacterial  nature,  and  the  name  "  Bacteriosis"  was 
given  it. 

The  Division  of  Patliplogy  of  the  National  Depart- 
ment of  Agriculture  has  recently  proven  that  the  bacte- 
ria are  but  a  secondary  cause  of  the  disease,  and  that  it 
-^/ill  not  appear  if  the  plants  are  kept  free  from  the 
attacks  of  aphides,  thrips,  and  other  insects  through 
whose  punctures  the  bacterial  germs  gain  entrance. 

FUNGOUS  AND  OTHER  DISEASES  OF   VIOLETS. 

The  following  notes  ivere  kindly  2)i'€pared  by  Prof.  Byron 
D.  Halsted,  of  the  New  Jersey  Experiment  Station, 
■who  is  an  authority  on  the  subject. 
At  the  outset  it  may  be  said  that  there  are  more 
enemies  to  violets  than  most  practical  growers  are  at 
first  willing  to  admit.  Much  has  been  published  upon 
the  general  subject  in  the  florists'  journals  and  quite 
uniformly  under  the  title  of  —  The  Violet  Disease. 
There  are  enemies  of  all  sorts  and  frequently  the  worst  is 
man  himself.  In  other  words,  lack  of  proper  treatment 
of  soil,  of  the  watering  can,  of  ventilation,  of  tempera- 
ture, exposure  to  gases,  cold  winds,  and  many  other  things, 
can  be  charged  with  much  of  the  luck  of  vigor  of  the 
plants  and  failure  to  produce  profitable  amounts  of 
blooms.  It  is,  however,  not  our  purpose  to  treat  of  these 
things.  There  are  several  species  of  fungi  that  alone, 
or  two  or  more  working  together,  do  much  to  destroy 
the  crop.  These  will  be  briefly  treated  below,  and  it  is 
hoped  that  light  will  be  thrown  upon  the  obscure  sub- 
ject that  may  possibly  assist  in  the  difficult  labor  of 
finding  remedies  that  will  check  their  ravages. 

THE  VIOLET  LEAF  SPOT  (Cercos])ora   ViolcB,  Sacc). 

This  is  one  of  the  most  conspicuous  as  well  as  com- 
mon of  the  fungous  diseases  of  the  violet.     As  its  naro<s 


FUNGOUS  DISEASES   OF  THE  VIOLET. 


339 


FIG.  124.    VIOLET  LEAF  SPOT  {Photographed  by  P.  H.  Dorsetl). 


340  GREEKHOUSE   MAKAGEMElJrT. 

indicates,  it  procl^^ces  spots  upon  the  foliage  which  at 
first  are  not  larger  than  the  head  of  a  pin,  but  increase 
in  size  until  a  third  of  a  leaf  may  be  included  in  a  single 
spot.  As  there  are  other  distinct  species  of  fungi  that 
produce  leaf  sjiots  upon  the  violet  foliage,  it  is  necessary 
to  place  some  stress  upon  the  characteristics  of  the  cer- 
cospora  spot. 

When  the  microscope  is  used  upon  the  spots  it  is 
seen  that  the  blanched  surface  of  the  leaf  is  covered  with 
small  tufts  or  rosettes  of  irregular  brown  threads.  This 
fungus  produces  its  spores  outside  of  the  infested  tissue 
and  the  spores  are  thus  in  easy  reach  of  any  fungicide  that 
may  be  applied  to  the  surface.  This  Cercospora  is  closely 
related  to  the  one  upon  the  celery  (^Cercospora  apii,^Y.) 
and  no  doubt  can  be  controlled  in  the  same  way  by  the 
use  of  the  compounds  of  copper. 

VIOLET  LEAF  SPOT  NO.  2  {Phyllosticta  ViolcB,  Sacc). 

A  second  form  of  leaf  spot  of  the  violet  can  be  dis- 
tinguished by  the  naked  eye.  The  spot  is  remarkably 
white  and  breaks  near  the  margin,  Avhich  consists  of  a 
ring  of  a  cream  color.  Very  often  the  central  portion  of 
the  spot  has  disappeared,  leaving  the  affected  leaf  with  a 
number  of  holes.  If  viewed  closely,  the  thin,  white  cen- 
tral portion  of  the  spot  is  seen  to  contain  a  number  of 
minute  specks  that  are  imbedded  in  the  thin  substance 
of  the  dead  tissue.  The  spores,  as  the  moisture  dries 
away,  are  carried  by  the  moving  currents  of  air  and  fall- 
ing upon  healthy  leaves  produce,  shortly,  new  spots  of  the 
disease.  This  fungus  needs  the  same  treatment  as  the 
Cercospora,  and  as  they  often  grow  together  upon  the 
same  leaf,  the  spraying  for  the  one  will  answer  for  the 
other. 
VIOLET  LEAF  SPOT  NO.  3  (Ascoc7ii/fa  ViolcB,  Sacc). 
Somewhat  like  the  last  described  leaf  spot  is  one 
that  is  caused  by  a  species  of  Ascochyta.     This  is  quite 


FUNGOUS   DISEASES   OF   THE   VIOLET.  3il 

frequently  met  with,  particularly  upon  specimens  re-' 
ceived  from  Massachusetts.  The  differences  between 
this  and  the  Phyllosticta  are  chiefly  microscopic.  The 
spores,  for  example,  instead  of  consisting  of  one  cavity, 
have  a  cross  partition  dividing  them  in  two  near  the 
middle.  The  spore-bearing  vessels  (pycnidia)  are  pale 
pink  colored  and  the  hole  upon  the  free  side  has  a  dark 
border.  The  diseased  portion  is  a  less  well-defined  spot 
than  in  previous  cases,  and  is  more  like  a  brown  patch. 

VIOLET  ANTHEACNOSE    {GlCBOSpoHum    ViolCB,    B.  &   M.). 

A  genuine  anthracnose  is  met  with  upon  the  violet. 
This  does  not  produce  a  spot,  but  the  side  of  the  leaf 
may  be  attacked  and  become  brown  and  shrivelled,  the 
trouble  sj^reading  over  the  whole  leaf  in  the  worst  cases. 
When  viewed  under  the  microscope  the  surface  of  the 
diseased  portion  shows  many  patches  where  the  spores 
are  borne  upon  the  surface.  The  fungus,  after  running 
in  all  directions  through  the  tissue  of  the  leaf,  concen- 
trates at  certain  points  and  there  rupturing  the  skin 
produces  large  numbers  of  small  spores  upon  the  exposed 
surface. 

A   SECOND   FORM   OF   ANTHRACKOSE    {ColletotricJlUm). 

Closely  related  to  the  last  is  a  second  species  of 
anthracnose  that  belongs  to  the  genus  Colletotrichum. 
This  causes  a  deadening  of  irregular  patches  in  the  leaf, 
and,  owing  to  the  numerous  dark,  stiff  hairs,  the  affected 
parts  may  appear  almost  black. 

There  is  a  bacterial  disease  that  causes  the  central 
portion  (crown)  of  the  plant  to  decay,  and  ruin  is  quickly 
effected.-  It  frequently  works  in  connection  with  the 
other  fungous  diseases  and  no  satisfactory  treatment  is 
suggested  for  it. 

But  few  satisfactory  results  have  been  obtained  by 
treating  the  violets  for  fungous  diseases.  Several 
growers  have  been  faithful  in  applying  the  ammoniacal 


343  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

carbonate  of  copper  mixture,  with  fair  rcpiilts.  But  the 
beginning  of  the  trouble  is  often  below  ground  and  quite 
out  of  the  reach  of  fungicides,  as  shown  below. 

THE   VIOLET   EEL   WOKMS   [Root  Gcills). 

One  of  the  serious  pests  of  the  violet  is  the  eel  worm 
or  nematode.  These  are  microscopic  worms  that  mul- 
tii)ly  in  the  substance  of  the  violet  roots,  and  cause 
enlargements  called  galls,  that  may  be  very  numerous 
and  sometimes  of  considerable  size.  The  worms  enter 
the  tender  roots  from  the  soil  and  there  increase  rajiidly. 
Their  presence  seems  to  poison  the  tissue  and  induces  an 
abnormal  growth,  similar  to  that  which  takes  place  upon 
many  sorts  of  leaves  when  stung  by  gall  flies  and  other 
insects.  Many  plants  have  their  roots  affected  in  this 
way,  and  the  same  species  of  nematode  probably  inhabits 
scores  of  kinds  of  jilants. 

So  far  as  known,  the  gall  trouble  of  roses  is  the 
same  as  that  of  the  violet,  and  if  this  be  true,  it  follows 
that  the  infection  may  pass  from  one  kind  of  plant  to 
another.  It  would  not  be  well  to  grow  violets  in  soil 
where  roses  had  been  galled,  or  vice  versa. 

There  is  no  remedy  for  a  plant  that  is  badly  infested, 
for  nothing  harmless  to  the  plant  can  be  used  to  kill  the 
worms.  The  main  point  is  to  keep  the  nematodes  out 
of  the  roots.  The  soil,  therefore,  should  be  free  from 
them,  and  this  is  a  difficult  matter.  .  The  soil  could  be 
heated  to  a  high  temperature  and  the  worms  would  be 
killed.  Freezing  would  accomplish  the  same  end;  but 
either  of  these  two  extremes  is  not  always  possible.  Lime 
water  is  said  to  kill  them.  The  less  manure  used, 
the  better,  so  far  as  the  galls  are  concerned.  Violets 
could  probably  be  grown  profitably  with  no  manure. 
With  the  soil  free  from  the  worms,  and  the  plants  also, 
there  ought  to  be  no  trouble  in  having  violets,  exempt 
from  the  nematodes.  In  setting  out  the  plants,  it  is 
well  to  look  at  the  roots  and  reject  all  with  galls. 


THE  BERMUDA  LILY  DISEASE. 


343 


Underground  troubles  are  the  least  readily  investi- 
gated, but  none  tbe  less  fatal.  If  a  plant  looks  pale  and 
there  is  a  drying  of  the  edges  of  the  leaf,  it  is  always  well 
to  look  for  mischief  at  the  roots. 

THE  BERMUDA   LILY    DISEASE. 

For  a  number  of  years  florists  have  been  troubled  by 
a  disease  that  has  attacked  their  Easter  lilies.  While 
Lilium  Harrisii  has  been  most  commonly  attacked,  it 


FIG.  125.     PliANTS  AFFECTED  BY  LILT  DISEASE. 

has  also  appeared  on  L.  lo7igifloi'U'm  and  occasionally  on 
L.  auratum  and  L.  candidum.  It  shows  in  the  spotthig 
of  the  leaves  and  of  the  bulbs  themselves,  and  in  the 
dwarfing  and  distorting  of  the  leaves  and  flowers.  Upon 
the  leaves,  where  they  show  as  yellowish-white  sunken 
streaks,  the  spots  are  often  quite  numerous.  These  en- 
large and  finally  the  leaves  severely  attacked  shrivel,  and 
dry  so  that  the  plant  is  ruined  ^Fig.  125).     Tbe  disease 


344  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

attacks  the  bulbs  while  growing  in  the  field  and  is  com- 
mon not  only  in  Bermuda,  but  in  Holland,  France 
and  Japan. 

Tlie  disease  is  due  to  the  weakening  of  the  plants  by 
the  attacks  of  various  mites,  fnngi  and  bacteria,  and  its 
appearance  is  also  undoubtedly  induced,  and  the  extent  of 
tiie  injury  increased,  by  improper  selection  and  propa- 
gation, as  well  as  by  the  cutting  of  the  flowers,  and  the 
harvesting  of  the  bulbs  before  they  are  matured.  In  the 
greenhouse,  the  effect  of  the  disease  is  increased  and  per- 
haps caused  by  the  attack  of  aphides  and  mites  upon  the 
leaves  and  flowers,  while  the  syringing  of  the  plants,  so 
that  water  will  remain  between  the  young  leaves  at  night 
may  have  its  effect.  From  the  above,  which  is  the  result 
of  the  investigations  of  the  Department  of  Agriculture, 
it  is  evident  that  the  condition  of  the  bulbs  at  the  time 
they  are  imported  will  have  much  to  do  Avith  the  extent 
to  which  they  will  be  attacked  while  in  the  hands  of  the 
florist.  Stunted  and  unripe  bulbs  should  be  avoided, 
and  if  they  show  the  cliaracteristic  spots  due  to  the  work 
of  the  fungi  and  mites,  they  should  be  discarded. 
Before  the  bulbs  are  potted,  they  should  be  disinfected 
by  dipping  them  into  a  solution  of  copper  sulphate  (one 
to  one  thousand)  or  of  liver  of  sulphur  (one  to  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty),  and  the  mites  and  aphides  should  be 
destroyed  by  using  strong  tobacco- water  or  some  other 
efficient  insecticide. 

In  order  that  a  close,  firm  texture  may  be  secured, 
tlie  chief  reliance  should  be  upon  chemical  manures, 
rather  tlian  animal  manures,  rich  in  nitrogen.  Careful 
attention  should  be  paid  to  the  destruction  of  mites  and 
aphides,  and  if  any  of  the  plants  show  signs  of  the  dis- 
ease, they  should  be  isolated  or  at  once  destroyed,  if  the 
attack  is  a  severe  one.  As  will  be  seen  from  the  above, 
the  remedies  are  preventives  rather  than  cures,  and  the 
most  important  thing  is  to  secure  strong,  healthy  bulbs. 


OTHSR  DISEASES.  345 

DISEASES  OF  THE  CHRYSANTHEMUM. 

This  plant  is  subject  to  the  attack  of  several  forms 
"of  what  are  commonly  called  *'leaf-spot."  In  two  of 
these  forms,  which  the  botanist  calls  Septoria  Ghrysan- 
themi,  E.  and  D.,  and  Cylindrosporium  Chrysanthemi, 
E.  and  D.,  the  first  appearance  is  as  small  brown  spots, 
wtiich  quickly  enlarge  until  they  cover  considerable  areas, 
when  the  leaves  turn  yellow  and  drop.  In  anothar  form 
{Phyllosticta  Chrysanthemi,  E.  and  D.),  the  spots  have 
more  of  a  reddish  color  and  seem  quite  velvety.  If 
there  are  many  of  these  spots  upon  a  leaf,  the  portions 
between  them  turn  yellow  and  the  leaves  droop. 

The  Bordeaux  mixture  is  one  of  the  most  effectual 
remedies  and  if  the  disease  appears  when  the  plants  are 
small,  it  should  be  used  frequently.  Although  less 
effectual,  if  the  use  of  a  fungicide  is  necessary  after  the 
flowers  open,  cupram,  or  some  of  the  other  solutions, 
should  be  used  instead.  Infected  leaves  should  be  at 
once  picked  off  and  burned,  and  if  the  plants  are  badly 
injured  it  will  be  best  to  throw  them  out  at  once.  Cut- 
tings for  a  new  stock  should  be  selected  only  from 
healthy  plants  and  should  be  frequently  sprayed. 

The  chances  of  injury  from  these  diseases  will  be 
greatly  lessened,  if  mineral  manures,  such  as  wood  ashes 
and  ground  bone,  are  freely  used.  Keeping  the  houses 
cool  and  well  ventilated,  and,  if  the  plants  are  very  thick, 
the  removal  of  some  of  the  lower  leaves  from  plants 
growing  closely  in  beds,  will  aid  in  keeping  off  the  disease. 

A  MIGNONETTE  DISEASE  {Cevcospora  Resedce). 

In  the  American  Florist  for  September,  1887,  Pro- 
fessor Seymour  figured  and  described  a  disease  of  the 
mignonette,  which  has  become  quite  troublesome  in  some 
sections.  The  first  sign  of  the  disease  is  a  reddish  dis- 
coloration, which  spreads  over  the  leaf  and  is  followed 
by  the  appearance  of  small,  sunken  spots  with  yellowish 


346 


GEEENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


LEAF    BLIGHT    OF   MIG- 

KONETTE.    (Cercosjwra  liestda:'.) 
Threads,    c.  Spores,    (b  and 


borders.  The  spots  (Fig.  120)  increase,  and  running 
together  may  destroy  the  entire  leaf.  They  have  a  gran- 
ular appearance  caused  by  clusters  of  fungus  threads 
(B)  upon  which  the  septate 
spores  (C)  are  borne.  The 
disease  sju-eads  very  rapidl}' 
and  may  become  quite  trouble- 
some. If  taken  in  time,  the 
disease  may  be  kept  in  check 
by  the  use  of  the  copper  com- 
pounds. It  will  be  well  to 
remove  all  diseased  portions 
and  spray  the  plants  with  Bor- 
deaux mixture. 

LEAF    BLIGHTS. 

Nearly  all  plants  are  sub- 
c  magnified.)    '  Jcct  to  the  attack  of  certain 

fungi  that  are  known  as  leaf  blights.  They  belong  to 
several  species,  but  are  alike  in  causing  the  appearance  of 
yellow  spots  ujDon  the  leaves,  which  may  spread  until 
they  assume  large  proportions,  and  if  they  are  very 
numerous  the  leaves  may  be  destroyed.  Generally  at 
the  place  where  the  spot  first  showed,  a  dark  brown  dot 
will  later  on  appear;  this  is  due  to  the  development  of 
a  large  number  of  spores,  by  Avhich  the  disease  will  be 
scattered.  When  the  spots  first  show,  the  leaves  attacked 
should  at  once  be  removed  and  burned.  Sometimes, 
there  are  but  one  or  two  spots  upon  large  leaves,  and  it 
will  be  possible  to  cut  off  the  portion  of  the  leaf  upon 
which  the  spot  is  situated,  but  to  be  effectual  a  consid- 
erable amount  of  the  leaf  should  be  taken  off,  as  the 
mycelium  of  the  fungus  has  probably  spread  to  some 
distance  beyond  the  margin  of  the  discolored  portion. 
Most  of  these  fungi  work  within  the  tissues,  and  no  sur- 
face application  wall  stop  their  spread  within  the  leaf, 
but  by  applying  the  Bordeaux  mixture,  or  cupram,  we 


DISEASES   OF   LETTUCE.  347 

will  be  able  to  destroy  any  spores  that  form  on  the  out- 
side of  the  leaves,  and  if  the  entire  surface  of  the  leaves 
is  thus  protected,  any  spores  that  may  come  in  contact 
with  the  healthy  leaves  will  be  kept  from  germinating, 
and  the  spread  of  the  disease  will  be  prevented. 

DISEASES  OF  LETTUCE. 

If  properly  handled,  thei-e  is  little  danger  from  the 
attack  of  any  disease,  but  unless  the  soil,  the  temper- 
ature and  moisture,  are  suited  to  the  crop,  one  or  more 
troubles  may  make  their  appearance,  and  greatly  injure, 
if  they  do  not  entirely  destroy  it. 

The  one  most  to  be  feared  is  commonly  known  as 
**Rot."  It  attacks  the  under  leaves  in  some  cases  and  in 
others  the  inner  leaves,  causing  them  to  rot  off.  If, 
when  the  lettuce  is  nearly  grown,  the  air  is  too  warm 
and  close,  especially  if  a  large  amount  of  water  has  been 
used,  the  disease  is  quite  likely  to  appear.  Heavy,  com- 
pact soil  that  does  not  dry  out,  is  also  favorable  to  the 
appearance  of  the  disease.  The  remedies  Avill  be  entirely 
preventive  and  will  be  merely  to  correct  the  conditions 
under  which  the  plants  are  grown,  by  using  a  light, 
sandy  soil,  made  very  rich ;  keeping  the  temperature 
under  45  degrees  at  night  for  the  cabbage  varieties,  and 
not  allowing  it  to  get  to  50  for  Grand  Eapids  and  similar 
varieties ;  giving  an  abundance  of  fresh  air  during  the 
day;  and  carefully  regulating  the  amount  of  water  sup- 
plied. If  the  disease  has  appeared,  after  correcting,  so 
far  as  possible,  the  conditions  that  have  brought  about 
its  appearance,  the  spores  of  the  disease  can  be  destroyed, 
and  its  further  spread  prevented  by  evaporating  sulphur 
in  the  house,  taking  care  that  it  does  not  take  fire. 

The  fungus  that  causes  the  rot  is  known  as  Botry- 
Us  vulgaris,  and  as  it  can  develop  in  decaying  vegetable 
matter,  care  should  be  taken  that  the  manure  is  well 
worked  into  the  soil. 


348  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

Another  disease  is  the  lettuce  "Mildew."  It  is  seldom 
troublesome,  except  in  dark  houses,  where  the  plants  are 
making  little  or  no  growth,  on  account  of  a  cold,  wet  soil. 

A  third  trouble  is  "Leaf-burn,"  which  causes  the 
edges  of  the  leaves  to  turn  brown.  This  is  a  common 
trouble  with  the  head  varieties,  and  greatly  reduces  the 
value  of  the  crop.  It  is  much  less  likely  to  appear  in 
the  variety  known  as  Grand  Eapids  than  in  most 
other  sorts.  The  usual  cause  of  the  trouble  is  growing 
the  lettuce  at  too  high  a  temperature,  especially  if  the 
changes  are  sudden  and  extreme.  A  deficiency  of  water 
in  the  soil,  especially  if  the  air  is  hot  and  dry,  will  also 
lead  to  its  appearance.  In  short,  it  may  be  attributed 
to  anything  that  will  cause  the  water  to  be  given  off 
from  the  tissues  at  the  edges  of  the  leaves  faster  than 
it  can  be  supplied  to  them.  If  the  soil  is  light,  the 
roots  will  penetrate  deeply  and  water  will  be  supplied 
much  more  readily  than  if  it  is  heavy. 

DISEASES   OF  THE   CUCUMBER    AND    MELON. 

Both  of  these  vines  are  attacked  by  a  downy  mil- 
dew {Plasmopara  Culensis,  B.  and  C),  which  first  shows 
in  the  yellow  color  of  the  spots  where  the  fungus  is  at 
work,  followed  by  the  appearance  of  the  frost-like 
patches  of  spores  on  the  underside  of  the  leaves.  In  the 
case  of  the  cucumber,  the  spores  are  of  a  yiolet  color. 
This  disease  appears  when  the  houses  have  been  cold  and 
damp,  and  unless  a  radical  change  can  at  once  be  made, 
the  chance  for  a  crop  will  soon  be  lost.  The  vines 
should  at  once  be  treated  with  Bordeaux  mixture,  after 
picking  off  all  leaves  that  are  affected  and  throwing  out 
the  plants  that  have  been  much  injured. 

CUCUMBER    POWDERY   MILDEW. 

The  cucumber,  when  grown  under  glass,  especially 
if  the  air  has  been  kept  too  dry,  is  sometimes  attacked 
with  a  fungus  that  is  thought  to  be  Erysi;phe  dehor  a- 


ANTHEACNOSE  OF  THE  BEAN.  34^ 

cearum,  D.  C.  It  shows  on  the  upper  side  of  the  leav^es 
as  small  white  patches,  composed  of  a  mass  of  fine 
threads  and  spores.  This  gives  it  a  flour-like  appear- 
ance, whence  the  common  name.  It  also  attacks  the 
stems  and  even  the  fruits.  The  portions  attacked  soon 
turn  brown,  and,  if  the  spots  are  numerous,  the  plant  is 
soon  killed.  As  a  preventive,  the  temperature  and 
moisture  in  the  house  should  be  carefully  regulated^  but 
as  the  disease  lives  upon  the  outside  of  the  plants,  it, 
like  all  powdery  mildews,  readily  yields  to  treatment. 
Spraying  with  sulphide  of  potassium,  or  cupram,  or  evap- 
orating sulphur  in  the  house,  will  destroy  it.  If  the 
disease  has  ajipearcd  in  a  house,  during  the  summer 
everything  should  be  cleaned  out  of  the  house,  and  a 
pound  of  sulphur  should  be  burned  for  each  3,000  cubic 
feet.  Care  will  be  required,  as  this  will  be  fatal  to 
animals  and  plants,  as  well  as  to  the  spores  of  the  fungus. 

ANTHKACNOSE   OF  THE   BEAK. 

When  grown  under  glass,  the  bean  is  very  subject 
to  the  attack  of  this  fungus,  which  appears  on  the  stems 
and  leaves,  as  well  as  on  the  pods,  causing  spots  to  form 
that  quickly  enlarge,  until  they  cover  a  considerable 
area.  Upon  the  stems  and  pods  the  tissues  dry  up  and 
appear  sunken.  To  succeed  with  this  crop,  the  seed 
used  must  be  free  from  disease.  Although  soaking  the 
seed  in  copper  sulphate  solution  may  aid  in  destroying 
the  spores,  it  is  not  entirely  effectual.  As  soon  as  the 
first  spot  shows,  the  affected  portions  should  be  removed 
and  burned,  and  the  plants  sprayed  with  Bordeaux  mix- 
ture. After  the  pods  form,  some  of  the  solutions  should 
be  used.  "We  have  had  good  results  when  using  copper 
sulphate  solution,  1  to  2,000,  but  others  report  failures 
with  it. 

DAMPITSra   OFF. 

Considerable  losses  often  occur  in  the  cutting  bed 
and  seed  boxes  from  what  is  commonly  known  as  "damp- 


350  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

ing  off,"  and  the  disease  that  causes  the  trouble  is  often 
spoken  of  as  the  "fungus  of  the  cutting  bed."  Really, 
there  are  several  fungi  that  may  be  the  cause  of  the 
trouble,  but  the  one  that  is  most  destructive  has  been 
named  Artotrogus  deharyanns  (Hesse)./  Not  only  does 
it  grow  upon  living  plants,  but  it  may  subsist  ujDon 
decaying  vegetable  matter  ;  hence,  one  of  tlie  conditions 
that  is  likely  to  lead  to  its  appearance  in  a  bed  of  cut- 
tings is  the  use  of  sand  in  which  several  batches  of  cut- 
tings have  been  rooted.  If  we  combine  with  this  a  high 
temperature  and  a  close  and  moist  atmosphere,  the  ajopear- 
ance  of  the  trouble  in  a  batch  of  cuttings  will  be  more 
than  i^robable.  The  same  is  true  with  seedlings,  and  for 
this  reason  clean  sand  forms  the  best  seed  bed  in  which 
to  start  plants  that,  like  the  cucumber,  require  a  high 
temperature. 

The  remedy  against  this  disease  is  self-evident,  and, 
in  addition  to  a  frequent  change  of  the  sand  in  the  cut- 
ting bed,  we  must  avoid  the  conditions  that  have  been 
mentioned  as  promoting  its  develoj)ment.  It  has  also 
been  found  that  extremes  of  temperature  and  frequent 
sprinklings  of  the  surface,  thus  keeping  it  wet  while  the 
soil  beneath  is  comparatively  dry,  favor  the  appearance 
of  the  fungus.  If  the  soil  is  too  wet,  it  should  be  stirred, 
thus  aiding  its  drying  out. 

The  conditions  that  are  mentioned  as  favoring  the 
appearance  of  the  fungus  act  in  two  ways,  as  they  cause 
a  soft,  watery  growth,  thus  making  the  cuttings  or  seed- 
lings more  subject  to  attack,  and  they  are  also  favorable 
to  the  development  of  the  spores  and  the  growth  of 
the  fungus. 

If  it  appears  in  a  batch  of  seedlings,  the  healthy 
plants  should  at  once  be  pricked  out  in  a  box  of  f lesh 
soil,  while  in  the  cutting  bed  the  sand  should  be  thrown 
out,  the  boards  coated  with  a  thick  wash  of  Bordeaux 
mixture,  and,  if  of  a  valuable  variety,  the  healthy  cut- 


INSECTICIDES.  351 

tings  may  be  replaced  in  fresh  sand.  If  others  can  be 
readily  obtained,  however,  it  will  generally  be  better  to 
burn  them  u^  and  make  new  ones. 

Aside  from  the  form  mentioned  above,  "'damping 
ofE"  may  be  caused  by  one  or  more  species  of  Botrytis 
and  Phyllosiida,  and  upon  beans  by  CoUetotricum  Lin- 
cUmuthianum,  which  thrive  under  about  the  same  con- 
ditions and  which  require  the  same  treatment. 


CHAPTER  XXVIL 

INSECTICIDES. 

In  selecting  material  for  the  destruction  of  insects, 
it  is  quite  necessary  that  the  nature  of  the  insect  to  be 
treated  should  be  understood.  Frequently  insecticides 
are  applied  without  effect,  when  a  little  knowledge  of 
the  insect  would  have  shown  that  the  materials  used 
were  not  adapted  to  the  purpose. 

AESENITES. 

While  Paris  green,  London  purple  and  other  arsen- 
ites,  hellebore,  etc.,  are  valuable  when  the  insects  EAT 
the  flowers,  foliage,  or  other  external  portions  of  the 
plants,  they  are  in  no  way  effective  against  the  plant  lice, 
scale,  and  similar  insects. 

If  the  above  mentioned  arsenites  are  mixed  with  one 
hundred  parts  (by  weight)  of  plaster,  and  dusted  over 
the  plants  when  the  foliage  is  wet,  or  used  in  water  at 
the  rate  of  a  teaspoonfnl  to  twelve  quarts,  such  insects  as 
eat  the  portions  to  which  they  are  applied  will  be 
destroyed.  Hellebore  can  be  diluted  with  five  times  its 
weight  of  plaster,  or  a  teaspoonful  can  be  used  to  a 
gallon  of  water. 


352  GKEEISTHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

Another  class  of  insecticides,  in  order  to  be  effectual, 
should  be  applied  directly  upon  the  insects,  as  they 
destroy  by  contact,  and  their  effect  is  not  lasting. 

KEROSENE    EMULSION. 

Another  remedy  th;it  is  coming  rapidly  into  favor 
for  the  destruction  of  aphides,  scale,  mealy  bugs,  and  all 
other  insects  to  which  it  can  be  directly  ai)plied,  is 
known  as  kerosene  emulsion.  Various  pumps  and  noz- 
zles have  been  designed  for  the  mixing  of  water  with 
kerosene,  but  as  yet  the  emulsion  is  safest  to  be  used. 
It  is  prepared  with  either  hard  or  soft  soap,  kerosene 
and  water,  as  follows:  Take  a  quart  of  soft  soap  that  has 
been  heated  until  it  has  become  liquid  (or  two  ounces 
of  hard  soap  dissolved  in  a  gallon  of  hot  water),  add  one 
pint  of  kerosene  and  mix  together  nntil  a  thick,  cream- 
like material  is  obtained.  It  can  be  best  prepared  by 
using  a  small  force  pump,  such  as  is  used  in  applying 
the  mixture  to  the  plants.  Care  should  be  taken  to 
form  a  perfect  emulsion  that  will  not  separate  upon 
standing.  Before  using,  the  emulsion  should  be  diluted 
with  water,  so  that  the  kerosene  will  constitute  one-six- 
teenth of  the  entire  mixture,  or,  in  other  words,  one 
pint  of  kerosene  will  make  eight  quarts  of  insecticide. 
This  should  be  applied  with  considerable  force  and  in  a 
fine  spray,  covering  every  part  of  the  plants,  as  it  must 
come  in  contact  with  the  insects,  to  be  effectual.  When 
properly  prepared,  this  mixture  can  be  used  with  safety 
upon  nearly  all  plants.  The  cucumber  and  similar 
plants,  and  a  few  others  with  rough  leaves,  Avill,  how- 
ever, be  injured  by  it.  For  the  more  tender  plants. 
Professor  "Webster  recommends  one  ounce  of  hard  soap 
dissolved  in  two  gallons  of  hot  water,  and  mixing  with  it 
one  ounce  each  of  oil  of  cloves  and  kerosene.  In  this, 
while  at  a  temperature  of  135  degrees  F.,  the  plants 
are  dipped. 


INSECTICIDES.  353 


PYRETHRUM. 


Pyi-ethrum  or  buliacli  is  another  valuable  insect 
destroyer.  It  contains  a  volatile  oil  that  is  supposed  to 
act  npon  the  insects  through  their  breathing  organs.  It 
can  be  applied  as  a  powder  with  a  bellows,  or  in  water 
Avith  a  force  pump  or  a  syringe,  using  a  teaspoonful  to 
a  gallon.  To  be  most  effectual,  it  should  be  used  in  a 
closed  loom,  but  even  then  the  liquid  application  will 
often  succeed  where  the  powder  will  fail.  Care  should 
be  taken  to  have  a  fresh  supply,  and  if  it  is  to  be  kept 
any  length  of  time,  it  should  be  placed  Id  an  air- 
tight vessel. 

TOBACCO. 

For  many  insects,  tobacco  is  an  effective  remedy. 
If  the  houses  are  filled  with  smoke  from  burning  tobacco 
stems,  the  plant  lice  can  be  kej^t  in  check,  provided  they 
have  not  too  much  of  a  start.  As  in  other  cases,  pre- 
vention is  easier  than  cure,  and  if  the  houses  are  fumi- 
gated once  or  twice  a  week,  no  aphides  will  appear.  The 
tobacco  stems  should  be  slightly  dampened,  and  either 
placed  in  fumigating  cans,  made  of  galvanized  sheet 
iron,  with  openings  in  the  sides  near  the  bottom  to  afford 
a  draft,  or  in  piles  upon  the  cement  or  dirt  walk.  Shav- 
ings, paper,  or  better  yet,  a  few  live  coals,  may  be  used 
for  kindling  the  stenis.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the 
tobacco  does  not  blaze.  The  amount  of  smoke  that  can 
be  used  will  vary  with  the  plants,  but  if  so  thick  that 
one  cannot  see  more  tlian  ten  feet,  it  will  generally 
answer.  A  strong  tobacco  tea  sprayed  upon  the  plants 
is  also  valuable  as  an  insecticide,  and  in  houses  where 
fumigation  cannot  be  relied  upon,  the  sprinkling  of 
tobacco  dust  or  of  tobacco  stems  about  the  plants  will 
assist  in  keeping  the  insects  in  check.  The  stems  ^ve 
the  house  an  untidy  look  and  the  dust  is  washed  off 
in  ^syringing. 


36-i  GTtEENnoLTSE   MANAGEMENT. 

Evaporated  sulphur  is  also  a  valuable  insecticide  foi 
red  spider,  scale  and  apliides. 

AVhale  oil  soap  is  a  useful  material  for  washing 
plants,  or  as  a  solution  for  spraying  ])lants  that  cannot 
be  readily  washed,  using  one  i"»ound  to  eight  or  ten  gal- 
lons of  water  for  tentler  plants,  and  a  pound  to  three  or 
four  gallons  for  the  hardier  ones.  It  is  also  much 
used  in  making  kerosene  emulsion,  being  jireferable  to 
common  soap. 

There  is  also  a  great  variety  of  patent  mixtures  that 
are  used  as  insect  destroyers,  auiong  the  most  valuable 
of  which  is  Hughes's  fir  tree  oil,  which  can  often  be  used 
to  advantage  upon  plants  that  may  be  injured  by  the 
kerosene  emulsion.  At  the  rate  of  a  half  pint  to  a  gal- 
lon of  water,  it  is  an  efEective  and  safe  wash. 

TOBACCO    EXTRACT. 

In  large  ranges  of  jiouses,  where  steam  is  used  for 
heating  or  pumping,  tlie  application  of  the  vapor  of 
tobacco  will  be  found  easier,  safer  and  more  effective 
than  the  use  of  smoke.  It  can  readily  be  applied  by 
placing  the  stems  in  a  barrel  or  tank  and  admitting 
steam  through  a  steam  pipe  to  the  bottom.  Three  bar- 
rels will  answer  for  a  100-foot  house.  Galvanized  sheet 
iron  pans  may  be  placed  upon  the  steam  pipes  and' used 
for  the  evaporation  of  strong  tobacco  water.  They  are 
generally  about  forty  inches  long,  four  inches  wide  and 
nearly  as  deep,  and  if  two  are  placed  upon  each  side  of  a 
house  100  feet  long,  and  the  pans  filled  twice  a  week,  it 
will  generally  keep  the  aphides  in  ciieck.  The  commer- 
cial tobacco  extract  can  be  evaporated  in  the  same  way, 
but  only  a  pint  will  be  required  for  4,000  square  feet. 
The  extract  may  also  be  used  as  a  paint  upon  hot  water 
pipes,  applying  it  with  a  brush.  It  will  soon  dry  on  and 
in  a  day  or  so  should  be  moistened  with  clear  water. 
Another  application  of  the  extract  should  be  made  in  a 
day  or  two,  as  is  necessary. 


IJy'SECTICIDES.  355 

If  the  extract  is  to  be  extensively  nsed,  it  will  pay 
to  put  in  a  specially  arranged  tank  and  pijnng  for  the 
purpose.  This  consists  of  a  galvanized  iron  tank,  in 
which  a  quart  of  the  extract  is  placed  for  8,000  feet  of 
glass.  The  steam  supply  pipe  enters  at  the  top  and 
extends  nearly  to  the  bottom.  From  this  tank,  the 
vapor  is  carried  in  pipes  to  the  various  houses,  wliere 
there  sliould  be  a  vent  every  twenty-five  feet.  The  size 
of  the  jDipes  sliould  vary  from  one  inch  to  one  and  one- 
half  inches  or  larger,  according  to  the  amount  to  be 
treated.  The  pipes  leading  from  the  tank  should  have 
a  downward  slope,  so  that  any  condensed  licpiid  will  not 
collect.  To  prevent  injury  to  the  plants,  the  pipes 
should  be  carried  in  the  walks  or  under  the  benches,  and 
at  each  outlet  there  should  be  an  ell  and  a  valve,  the 
former  to  turn  t'le  steam  horizontally  so  that  it  will  not 
reach  the  plants,  and  the  valve  to  regulate  and  control 
the  escape  of  the  vapor.  The  ])iping  and  tank  should 
bo  provided  with  drip  cocks  wherever  n?cessary,  and 
such  valves  as  will  be  required  to  ccmtrol  the  steam,  and 
to  permit  the  washing  out  of  the  tank  and  pipes. 

As  compared  with  tobacco  stems,  dust  or  tea,  the 
concentrated  extract,  the  one  most  commonly  used  being 
the  ''Rose  leaf,"  is  clean,  easily  and  quickly  applied 
and  it  has  but  little  od!)r.  For  a  house  200  by  twenty 
feet,  the  cost  is  about  twenty  cents. 

Aside  from  throwing  the  toliacco  dust  over  the 
plants,  it  may  be  placed  over  an  oil  stove.  The  fumes 
should  be  slowly  driven  off,  but  the  flame  should  be  so 
regulated  that  it  does  not  take  fire.  The  burning  of  a 
pound  of  tobacco  upon  stoves,  thirty  feet  apart  in  a 
bouse,  will  be  effectual. 

HOT   WATER. 

Especially  for  house  plants,  hot  water  forms  a  sim- 
ple and  effectual  remedy,  as  nearly  all  insects  are  killed 


356  GIlEEi^HOUSE  MANAGEMEKT. 

by  water  at  135  to  140  degrees,  while  tender  pLints  will 
not  be  injured  by  water  at  150  degrees,  and  many  of  the 
hardier  species  will  withstand  its  use  at  180  degrees.  If 
the  plants  are  small,  they  can  readily  be  dipped  quickly 
two  or  three  times  in  the  water,  which  should  be  from 
150  to  175  degrees,  or  the  water  may  be  thrown  over 
them.  "While  a  coarse  stream  could  be  used,  it  Avill 
hardly  answer  to  apply  it  as  a  fine  spray,  as  the  water 
will  be  cooled  before  it  reaches  the  plant. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

FUNGICIDES,  THEIR    PREPARATION   AXD    USE. 

Many  of  the  diseases  of  plants  are  indirectly  due  to 
some  unfavorable  condition  of  temperature  or  moisture, 
that  enfeebles  them  and  i)rovides  surroundings  that  are 
particularly  favorable  to  tlie  development  of  the  germs 
of  disease.  It  has  long  been  known  that  sulphur  could 
be  used  for  the  destruction  of  some  of  the  mildews,  and 
various  sulphur  compounds  are  among  the  most  valualjle 
fungicides.  Within  the  last  ten  years,  several  salts  of 
copper  have  also  come  into  use,  and  as  the  slightest  trace 
will  destroy  the  spores  of  fungi,  they  are  employed  as 
fungicides,  to  the  almost  entire  exclusion  of  other  forms. 
The  following  materials  and  methods  of  application  arc 
particularly  worthy  of  mention: 

Sulphur  is  a  chief  and  simple  remedy  that  is 
destructive,  particularly  to  the  powdery  mildews.  As 
flower  of  sulphur,  it  may  be  thrown  upon  the  jilants  Avitli 
a  bellows,  and  if  the  temperature  of  the  house  is  allowed 
to  reach  90  degrees  upon  a  bright  morning,  before  ven- 
tilation is  given,  it  will  have  a  good  effect.  A  more 
rapid  evaporation  of  the  sul]>hur  can  be  secured  if  it  is 


rui^GiciDES.  357 

applied  as  a  wash  to  tlie  steam  or  hot  water  pipes. 
When  made  into  a  thick  wash  with  an  eqnal  quantity  of 
lime,  it  can  be  apjilied  with  a  brush  and  its  effects  will 
be  noticed  for  a  w^ek  or  more,  according  to  the  amount 
used  and  the  temperature  of  the  pipes. 

Another  method  of  obtaining  evaporated  sulphur  is 
by  the  use  of  a  small  oil  stove,  over  which  the  sulphur 
can  be  placed  upon  an  iron  dish.  If  sulphur  is  evapo- 
rated in  this  way  about  twice  a  week,  until  its  presence 
can  be  detected  by  the  eye,  it  will  destroy  many  of  the 
insects  as  well  as  fungi.  Great  care  should  be  taken 
that  the  sul^jhur  does  not  in  any  way  become  overturned 
or  take  fire,  as  that  would  destroy  the  plants.  The  lat- 
ter danger  will  be  lessened  if  an  iron  dish  containing  a 
half-inch  of  sand  is  placed  beneath  the  dish  containing 
the  suljihur. 

Liver  of  Sulphur,  or  sulphide  of  potassium,  dis- 
solved in  water  at  the  rate  of  two  ounces  to  ten  gallons 
of  water,  is  also  a  valuable  fungicide.  Although  its 
effects  are  less  lasting  than  those  of  the  copper  com- 
pounds, it  can  be  relied  upon  for  the  destruction  of  pow- 
dery mildew  and  other  superficial  fungi,  and  has  the  two 
strong  points  of  being  readily  prepared,  and  of  not  dis- 
coloring the  foliage. 

COPPER   COMPOUNDS. 

During  the  past  six  or  eight  years,  the  use  of 
various  salts  of  copper  as  fungicides  has  rapidly 
increased.  The  simplest,  cheapest,  and  most  efficient 
form  is  a  preparation  of  copper  sulphate  (blue  vitriol) 
and  lime,  known  as  Bordeaux  mixture.  For  some  pur- 
poses, this  fungicide  is  not  desirable,  as  it  leaves  a  coat- 
ing of  lime  upon  the  plants,  but  when  this  is  not  objec- 
tionable, the  effect  of  the  application  will  be  rendered 
more  lasting  by  the  adhesive  qualities  of  the  lime. 

This  mixture  is  made  in  various  strengths,  accord- 
ing to  the  severity  of  the  disease  and  the  nature  of  the 


358  GREENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

plants.  If  the  attack  i.s  widespread,  and  if  the  fungus 
is  a  difficult  one  to  destroy,  upon  all  plants  where  a 
thick  coating  of  lime  will  not  be  objectionable  the  fol- 
lowing mixture  may  be  used:  Four  j)ouiids  of  copper 
sulphate,  three  pounds  of  lime,  forty  gallons  of  water. 
Dissolve  the  copper  sulphate  in  hot  water  (it  can  readily 
be  done  by  placing  it  in  a  piece  of  burlap  and  suspend- 
ing in  a  pail  of  water),  and  in  another  vessel  slake  tlie 
lime  (also  v/itli  hot  water),  pour  together,  and  add  the 
remainder  of  the  water.  This  mixture  should  be 
strained,  in  order  to  remove  all  lumps  that  might  clog 
the  pump.  It  is  well  to  test  the  mixture  by  adding  a 
few  drops  of  solution  of  ferrocyanide  of  potassium.  If 
it  turns  the  mixture  brown,  more  lime  should  be  added. 

For  the  powdery  mildews,  and  upon  plants  where 
the  lime  is  not  desirable,  the  mixture  may  be  made  half 
as  strong  as  above,  using  two  pounds  of  copper  sulphate, 
two  pounds  of  lime  and  forty  gallons  of  water.  The 
fungicide  should  be  applied  in  a  fine  sj)ray,  covering 
every  part  of  the  plants.  Except  in  cases  where  the  dis- 
ease has  a  firm  foothold,  the  weaker  mixture  will 
generally  answer. 

For  use  when  the  lime  mixtures  are  not  desirable, 
the  modified  eau  celeste,  or  the  ammoniated  copper  car- 
bonate, may  be  used:  The  former  is  made  from  2  pounds 
copper  sulphate,  11-2  pounds  sal  soda,  1  1-2  quarts 
ammonia  water  (FFFF),  32  gallons  of  water. 

Dissolve  the  copper  sulphate  and  sal  soda  in  sepa- 
rate vessels,  pour  together  and,  when  action  has  ceased, 
add  the  ammonia  and  dilute  before  using. 

The  ammonia  solution  of  copper  carbonate,  or 
cupram,  as  it  is  called  for  short,  is  made  by  dissolving  two 
ounces  of  precipitated  copper  carbonate  in  one  quart  of 
ammonia  (FFFF),  and  diluting  to  tliii'ty-two  gallons. 
The  last  two  preparations  form  clear,  dark  blue  solu- 
tions and,   although  less  effective  than  the  Bordeaux 


FUNGICIDES.  359 

mixture,  will  generally  be  preferred  for  use  upon  plants  in 
the  greenhouse,  as  they  are  less  unsightly.  Various  othei 
mixtures  have  been  used  for  the  destruction  of  fungous  dis- 
eases, but  none  of  them  are  as  valuable  as  those  described 
above.  We  have  also  had  fair  results  from  the  use  of  a 
solution  of  copper  sulphate,  which  is  easily  prepared  and 
is  quite  inexpensive.  We  have  used  it  at  the  rate  of  one  to 
one  thousand,  or  of  one  ounce  to  eight  gallons  of  water, 
upon  most  plants,  but  in  the  case  of  the  beet,  bean,  and 
other  plants  with  smooth  leaves,  the  strength  should  be 
reduced;  for  some  plants,  like  the  carnation,  it  can  be 
doubled  to  advantage.  To  be  effectual,  soft  water 
should  be  used  in  making  the  solution. 

WHITE   ARSEKIC. 

Good  results  from  the  use  of  a  solution  of  arsenic, 
as  a  remedy  for  the  rust  of  the  carnation,  are  reported 
by  E.  G.  Hill  and  others.  If  only  a  few  plants  are 
grown,  it  will  be  best  to  buy  "Fowler's  solution''  of 
arsenic  at  a  drug  store,  and  use  it  at  the  rate  of  an  ounce 
to  eight  gallons  of  water.  With  a  little  care,  a  solution 
can  be  readily  made.  The  following  formula  is  recom- 
mended: Take  of  arsenious  acid  C.  P.,  616  grains; 
bicarbonate  of  potash,  1236  grains;  water,  four  ounces. 
Heat  until  a  solution  has  been  made  and  add  enough 
water  to  make  five  ounces  by  measure.  TJse  one  ounce 
of  the  solution  to  eight  gallons  of  water.  Care  should 
be  taken  not  to  inhale  any  of  tlie  vapor  when  making 
the  solution.  A  thorough  application  seems  to  kill  the 
spores  and  the  body  of  the  fungus,  and  at  the  same 
time  causes  the  injured  leaves  to  drop  off,  thus  cleaning 
up  the  plants. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

SOIL,    MANURES   AND  WATERING. 

Brief  allusions  have  several  times  been  made  to  the 
preparation  of  soil  for  various  greenhouse  crops,  but  a 
few  words  in  a  general  way  may  not  be  amiss. 

In  the  past,  there  has  been  great  mystery  thrown 
over  the  preparation  of  potting  soil  by  the  florist  of  the 
old  school,  whose  recipes  have  been  as  exact  and  as  com- 
plex as  the  physician's  prescription.  To-day,  however, 
the  veil  has  been  thrown  back,  and  the  whole  matter  has 
been  found  to  be  simplicity  itself.  The  materials  that 
form  the  basis  of  the  potting  soil  for  nearly  all  green- 
house plants,  are  rotten  pasture  sods  and  cow,  horse,  or 
sheep  manure,  in  the  proportion  of  one  of  the  latter  to 
from  two  to  five  of  the  former.  The  sods  should  be  cut 
in  the  spring  or  fall,  several  months  before  the  soil  will 
be  needed,  and  should  be  obtained  if  possible  from  an 
old  pasture  that  has  a  thick  fibrous  turf,  the  slice  being 
made  from  two  to  four  inches  thick,  according  to  the 
thickness  of  the  sod.  They  should  be  piled  up  and 
decomposed  manure  added,  using  a  layer  of  manure  tc 
two  or  three  layers  of  sods.  If  the  sods  come  fi-om  a 
clay  soil,  the  additicm  of  sharp  sand  will  be  of  benefit 
and,  for  most  crops,  a  portion  at  least  of  tlie  manure 
should  come  from  the  horse  stable.  On  the  other  hand, 
if  the  turf  contains  more  or  less  sand,  cow  manure  will 
be  preferable  and,  if  from  a  very  light  soil,  the  addition 
of  a  very  small  quantity  of  clay  loam  will  be  of  value. 
As  a  rule,  however,  when  the  turf  can  be  obtained  from 
a  moderately  hea-vy,  sandy  loam  soil,  the  addition  of  th^ 

m 


SOIL,   MANURES  AKD  WATERING.  361 

manure  alone  is  all  tliat  will  be  necessary.  When  the 
sods  have  become  perhaps  half  rotted,  the  pile  should  be 
cub  down  and  worked  over.  If  this  is  done  the  first  of 
May,  the  compost  can  be  used  for  filling  the  benches,  in 
three  or  four  weeks,  and  by  August  it  will  be  in  good 
condition  for  potting.  When  it  can  be  readily  obtained, 
sheep  manure  is  of  value,  either  for  mixing  with  soil  for 
potting,  as  a  top-dressing  or  for  preparing  liquid  manure. 

For  seed  pans  and  for  potting  cuttings,  it  is  well  to 
pass  the  compost  through  a  coarse  sieve,  but  for  most 
purposes  this  will  be  an  injury,  as  much  of  the  fibrous 
portion  of  the  compost  will  be  removed.  With  a  com- 
post prepared  as  above,  almost  any  kind  of  plants  can 
be  grown,  but  the  intelligent  florist  will  prefer  to  modify 
it  to  suit  the  wants  of  the  different  species. 

For  bulbs,  in  particular,  and  for  cuttings  of  nearly 
all  plants,  the  amount  of  sand  can  well  be  increased. 
Leaf  mold  is  a  valuable  addition  to  a  potting  soil,  but, 
for  most  plants,  its  use  is  not  essential,  and  the  same 
can  be  said  of  peat.  Many  of  the  stove  plants,  however, 
do  best  in  a  light,  porous  soil,  and  leaf  mold  and  peat 
can  be  added  to  advantage,  in  tlie  proportion  of  one  part 
of  each  to  eight  of  the  compost. 

SAND  FOE  THE  CUTTING  BENCH. 

The  use  of  "silver  sand"  has  been  insisted  upon  as 
necessary  for  success  in  growing  cuttings,  but  florists 
now  take  no  especial  pains  to  obtain  it,  although  it  is 
desirable  if  it  can  be  secured  near  at  hand.  The  main 
thing  is  to  use  sharp  sand  of  medium  fineness,  that  is 
free  from  organic  matter.  Anything  that  partakes  of  a 
quicksand  nature,  where  the  angles  of  the  grains  have 
been  worn  off,  will  pack  around  the  cuttings,  and 
extremely  fine  sand  has  the  same  fault.  Coarse  sand,  on 
the  other  hand,  dries  out  too  quickly,  unless  it  is  flooded, 
and  admits  air  too  freely  to  the  cut  surface  of  the  cut- 


362  GREENHOUSE    MANAGEMENT. 

tings.  Soil  coiitiiining  organic  matter  is  also  to  be 
avoided,  as  its  fermentation  will  lead  to  the  development 
of  bacteria  and  fungi,  which  are  likely  to  cause  the 
decay  of  the  cuttings.  It  is  probable,  too,  that  the 
])resence  of  organic  matter  in  the  soil  hinders  the  proper 
aeration  of  tlie  cutting  bed. 

FERTILIZERS. 

Although  stable  manure  should  be  the  principal 
reliance  for  plant  food,  some  of  the  chemical  manures 
can  be  used  to  advantage.  Aside  from  their  value  in 
supplying  plant  food,  they  will,  if  judiciously  applied, 
promote  a  firm,  healthy  growth  of  the  plants,  and  im- 
prove the  texture  and  keeping  qualities  of  the  flowers. 
Great  care  should  be  taken  in  the  use  of  chemical  fer- 
tilizers, as  many  of  them  are  of  a  strong  alkaline,  while 
others  are  of  an  acid,  nature,  and  if  used  to  excess,  they 
will  have  an  injurious  ratlier  than  a  beneficial  effect. 

With  the  exception  of  ground  bone,  it  is  not  safe  to 
use  any  of  them  in  seed  pans,  or  in  soil  for  cuttings  or 
young  seedlings.  A  large  amount  of  water  is  given  off 
from  the  surface  ol  the  soil  by  evaporation.  The  alka- 
lies held  in  solution  are  deposited  on  the  surface  of  the 
soil,  and  may  be  strong  enough  to  destroy  the  tender 
plant's.  Even  when  used  in  small  quantities  in  solution 
in  wr.ter,  if  applied  frequently,  they  may  accumulate 
and  become  strong  enough  to  injure  the  plants. 

Ground  bone  is  one  of  the  most  valuable  mineral 
fercilizers,  as  it  promotes  a  strong,  yet  firm  and  healthy, 
growth  and  can  be  used  in  almost  an  unlimited  quantity, 
witliout  danger  of  injuring  the  plants.  Pure  bone,  only, 
should  be  used,  and  to  produce  the  best  effects  it  should 
be  finely  ground.  Whatever  the  plants  to  be  grown, 
bone  meal  can  be  added  to  the  soil  to  advantage,  taking 
the  place  of  a  part  of  the  manure,  and  it  will  be  found 
equally  valuable  whether  they  are  in  seed  boxes,  cut- 


SOIL,   MAKURES  AND  WATERIKG.  363 

tings,  or  to  be  repotted.  For  plants  grown  either  in 
shallow  or  in  solid  beds,  the  addition  of  bone  meal  to  the 
soil,  both  at  time  of  planting  and  at  intervals  during  the 
season,  will  be  of  value.  One  quart  of  pure,  fine  ground 
bone  to  a  bushel  of  soil  will  answer  for  this  purpose,  but 
two  or  three  times  as  much  can  be  used  for  seed  boxes, 
or  for  repotting.  Ground  bone  furnishes  about  twenty 
to  twenty-five  per  cent  phosphoric  acid,  of  which  less 
than  one-half  per  cent  is  soluble,  and  about  six  per  cent 
is  reverted  (available  to  plants).  It  also  contains  about 
four  per  cent  of  nitrogen.  There  is,  however,  a  consid- 
erable variation  in  the  amount  of  the  constituents. 
Mildly  acidulated  bone,  if  used  at  all,  should  be  first 
carefully  tested. 

Bone  superphosphate  is  made  by  dissolving  bones  in 
sulphuric  acid,  thus  rendering  nearly  all  the  phosphoric 
acid  available  to  the  plants.  If  used  carefully,  it  is  of 
value  in  the  garden  and  for  deep  beds,  but  as  the  com- 
mercial brands  generally  contain  some  free  acid  and  pot- 
ash, its  use  by  the  florist  in  the  greenhouse  cannot 
be  recommended. 

Dissolved  bone  black  consists  of  the  refuse  bone 
charcoal  from  sugar  refineries  and  other  sources,  dis- 
solved in  acid,  and  ground.  It  is  of  varying  strength, 
and  contains  all  the  way  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  per 
cent  of  phosphoric  acid.  The  j^hosphorus  is  in  a  solu- 
ble form,  and  were  it  always  free  from  sulphuric  acid,  it 
would  be  preferable  to  raw  bone.  It  should  be  used 
with  great  care  in  pots  or  shallow  beds,  but  when  it  can 
be  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil  in  the  garden  or  in 
deep  beds,  it  forms  a  valuable  source  of  phosphoric  acid. 
When  used  in  repotting  soil,  or  in  shallow  beds,  one 
pound  to  the  bushel  can  generally  be  used  with  safety, 
while  half  that  quantity  will  be  as  much  as  any  crop  will 
need.  It  is,  however,  particularly  desirable  as  a  top- 
dressing,  using  perhaps  one  pound  to  twenty  square  feet 


364  GKEENHOUSE   MANAGEMENT. 

of  bed,  and  in  water,  either  alone  or  combined  with 
other  cliemicals.  Two  or  even  tliree  tablespoonfuls  in  a 
twelvc-qiuirt  watering  pot  of  water  will  be  perfectly  safe. 

Sulphate  and  Muriate  of  Potash  are  the  usual 
materials  used  as  a  source  of  potash,  and  when  wood 
ashes  cannot  be  obtained,  are  extremely  valuable.  The 
snli)liate  is  the  best  form  for  greenhouse  use,  and  may  be 
applied  either  broadcasted  and  mixed  with  the  soil,  or  in 
solution  in  watei*.  They  should  never  be  used  in  seed 
boxes,  or  for  young  plants  of  any  kind,  but  in  repotting 
large  plants  or  in  shallow  beds,  a  tablespoonful  to  a 
bushel  of  the  soil  can  be  used  to  advantage.  In  water, 
a  tablespoonful  to  twelve  quarts  will  be  safe. 

Kainit  is  a  crude  form  of  potash  salts  that  is  of 
value  for  supplying  jiotash,  and,  on  account  of  its  strong 
alkaline  nature,  it  is  often  used,  about  the  same  as  the 
sulphate  of  potash,  for  the  destruction  of  insects,  worms, 
etc.,  in  the  soil. 

Nitrate  of  Potash  or  saltpeter,  is  also  u*ed  as  a 
source  for  both  nitrogen  and  potash.  While  its  cost  is 
an  objection  to  its  use  in  large  quantities,  it  will  be 
found  valuable  when  dissolved  in  water  at  the  rate  of  a 
tablespoonful  in  eight  or  ten  quarts,  and  used  as  a 
liquid  manure. 

Nitrate  of  Soda  is  higlily  recommended  for  fur- 
nishing nitrogen  for  greenhouse  crops,  and  has  been 
tried  by  many  florists.  As  a  rule,  however,  it  has  been 
found  a  liindrance  to  the  growth  of  the  plants.  This  is 
owing  to  the  fact  that  it  has  been  used  in  too  great 
strength.  When  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil,  at  the 
rate  of  a  teaspoonful  to  a  bushel,  it  will  benefit  large 
plants,  or  use  one  pound  to  100  square  feet  of  bench. 
As  a  liquid  manure,  it  will  be  found  snfest,  and  at  tl.e 
rate  of  a  teaspoonful  to  throe  gallons  of  water  it  Mill  be 
useful.  If  used  too  frequently  it  may  cause  too  rank  a 
growth  of  the  plants. 


SOIL,    MANURES   AND    WATERING.  365 

Sulphate  of  Ammonia  is  also  used  for  its  nitro- 
gen, and  is  less  likely  to  injure  the  plants  than  nitrate 
of  soda.  For  all  plants  in  which  a  large  leaf  develop- 
ment or  rapid  growth  is  desired,  this  chemical  is  a  very 
valuable  fertilizer.  One  pound  to  fifty  square  feet  of 
bench,  or  a  tablespoonful  to  a  bushel  of  soil,  or  three 
gallons  of  water,  can  be  safely  used. 

MIXED   CHEMICAL   MANURES. 

Nearly  every  fertilizer  manufacturer  puts  up  a  fer- 
tilizer prepared  for  greenhouse  use,  and,  if  purchased  in 
large  quantities,  they  can  be  obtained  at  rates  but  little 
above  the  market  rates  for  the-materials. 

The  following  mixtures  will  be  found  useful  to  be 
added  to  the  soil  for  nearly  all  greenhouse  crops:  Two 
hundred  pounds  pure  ground  bone,  30  pounds  sulphate 
of  potash,  50  pounds  sulphate  of  ammonia,  or  50  pounds 
of  nitrate  of  soda;  or  200  pounds  ground  bone  and  50 
pounds  nitrate  of  potash.  Either  of  the  above  can  be 
used  at  the  rate  of  one  pound  to  twenty  square  feet  of 
bench  surface,  or  to  two  bushels  of  soil  for  repotting. 

If  desired  for  use  as  a  liquid  manure  in  water,  dis- 
solved bone  black  should  be  emjDloyed  instead  of  ground 
bone,  in  the  following  proportions:  One  hundred 
pounds  of  dissolved  bone  black,  50  pounds  sulj^hate  of 
potash  and  50  pounds  nitrate  of  soda,  or  50  pounds  sul- 
phate  of  ammonia.  Or,  100  pounds  dissolved  bone  black 
and  50  pounds  nitrate  of  potash,  used  at  the  rate  of  a 
tablespoonful  of  either  mixture  to  a  gallon  of  water. 

LIQUFD   MANURES. 

In  addition  to  the  use  of  the  above  chemicals  dis- 
solved in  water,  every  florist  should  employ  at  frequent 
intervals,  especially  during  the  summer,  liquid  fertilizers 
made  from  the  animal  manures,  for  which  purpose  the 
manure  of  the  sheep,  hen,  pigeon,  cow,  or  horse,  may 


3GG 


GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 


be  used,  A  tank  or  barrel  should  be  located  at  some 
convenient  point,  and  in  it  should  be  placed  about  one 
foot  of  manure.  If  filled  with  water  and  allowed  to 
stand  a  few  hours,  it  will  be  ready  for  use.  Plants  of  all 
kinds,  either  growing  in  beds  or  that  have  received  their 
last  shift  in  pots,  and  have  filled  the  soil  with  their  roots, 
should  receive,  during  the  growing  season,  an  application 
of  liquid  manure,  either  animal  or  chemical,  from  once 
to  three  times  a  week. 

To  secure  quick  results  and  for  application  in  solu- 
tion, sixty  pounds  of  nitrate  of  soda,  twenty-five  of 
nitrate  of  potash  and  fifteen  of 
phosphate  of  ammonia,  form 
a  good  mixture.  A  firmer, 
but  less  rapid,  growth  will  be 
secured  from  fifty  pounds  ni- 
trate of  soda,  thirty  of  nitrate 
of  potash,  and  twenty  of  phos- 
phate of  ammonia,  Elmer  D. 
Smith  of  Adrian,  Michigan, 
has  been  very  successful  in 
growing  chrysanthemums  with 
the  above  mixture,  applying 
one  pound  in  one  hundred  gal- 
lons of  water  for  a  house  one  hundred  by  eighteen  feet, 
every  five  days  until  the  flowers  are  half-o]ien.  Phos- 
l)hate  of  potash  is  also  used  in  place  of  the  nitrate  of 
potash  and  phosphate  of  ammonia. 

Commercial  brands  are  put  up  by  several  manufac- 
turers, which  give  good  results,  but,  like  all  concentrated 
fertilizers,  they  must  be  used  with  care. 

For  the  application  of  liquid  fertilizers  the  Kinney 
pump  (Fig.  127),  made  by  the  Kingston  (R.  I.)  Hose 
Connection  Co.,  will  be  found  very  useful.  It  is  at- 
tached to  a  hose  and  draws  from  a  barrel  or  tank  a 
strong  solution  and,  after  mingling  it  with  the  clear 


THE    KINNEY    PUMP, 


SOIL,   MANURES  AND   WATERING.  367 

water,  applies  it  to  the  plants  with  no  more  trouble  than 
if  the  water  alone  is  used.  The  rate  of  dilution  can 
be  readily  varied. 

JADOO   FIBRE   AND   LIQUID. 

These  materials  have  been  recently  introduced  as  a 
potting  soil  and  liquid  manure.  While  rather  expensive 
for  general  use,  good  plants  can  be  grown  in  the  fibre, 
and  it  is  particularly  valuable  for  decorative  plants.  It 
retains  moisture  and  lessens  the  danger  of  injury  from 
drying  out  of  the  plants.  Professor  Galloway,  who  has 
tested  it  thoroughly,  recommends  the  fibre  for  hanging 
baskets,  Jardinieres,  liouse  pot-plants,  palms,  etc.  Good 
results  can  also  be  obtained  with  the  liquid,  diluted  with 
forty-eight  parts  of  water. 

WATERING. 

In  the  past,  the  practice  has  been  to  apply  water  to 
the  surface  of  the  soil  and  allow  it  to  soak  in.  While  this 
method  is  still  used  for  pot-plants,  many  persons  are 
securing  good  results  from  tlie  sub-irrigation  of  plants 
grown  in  beds.  When  plants  are  surface  watered,  unless 
one  is  familiar  with  the  work,  there  is  danger  on  the  one 
hand  of  over-watering  and,  on  the  other,  of  keeping  the 
soil  too  dry.  When  plants  are  watered,  the  amount 
applied  should  be  sufficient  to  thoroughly  moisten  the 
soil,  and  no  more  water  should  be  given  them  until  they, 
in  some  way,  manifest  a  need  of  it.  An  experienced  florist 
can  tell  from  the  appearance  of  the  plants,  even  before 
they  begin  to  wilt,  as  to  their  need  of  further  applica- 
tion of  water.  The  appearance  of  the  pots  and  soil 
should  also  be  considered.  While  plants  are  at  rest,  or 
in  the  case  of  young  plants  before  they  have  established 
themselves,  especially  if  they  are  in  large  pots,  little 
water  will  be  required,  and,  unless  withheld,  there  will 
be  danger  of  injury.  As  a  rule,  the  early  morning  is  the 
best  time  for  watering,  but  during  the  hot  days  of  sum- 


368  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

mer,  the  plants  should  be  examined  two  or  three  times 
and  should  receive  water,  if  they  show  the  need  of  it. 
While  cistern  water  can  be  used  for  most  plants,  it  is 
desirable  that  the  chill  be  taken  from  water  brought 
directly  from  springs.  For  stove  plants  and  others 
requiring  a  moderately  high  temperature,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  provide  some  method  for  warming  the 
water.  This  can  generally  be  done  by  providing  tanks 
through  Avliich  steam  or  water  pipes  can  pass. 

SUB-IREIGATION. 

For  several  years,  experiments  have  been  carried  on 
in  watering  plants  growing  in  greenhouse  beds,  through 
subterranean  pipes.  In  nearly  every  case  good  results 
have  been  obtained,  as  there  was  not  only  a  larger  and 
earlier  development  of  the  plants,  but  the  labor  of  api)li- 
cation  was  greatly  reduced,  and  a  smaller  amount  of 
water  suflBced.  In  many  cases,  too,  the  danger  from 
attack  of  various  plant  diseases  was  lessened.  Among 
those  who  have  had  most  experience  with  sub-irrigation 
in  the  greenhouse  is  Professor  W.  J.  Green,  of  the  Ohio 
Experiment  Station,  who  has  prepared  the  follow- 
ing notes: 

SUB-IRRIGATION  IN  THE   GREENHOUSE. 

Sub-irrigation  in  the  greenhouse  grew  out  of  the 
necessity  of  devising  ways  and  means  to  prevent  the  let- 
tuce rot.  After  several  conversations  on  the  subject, 
between  Mr.  W.  J.  Green,  horticulturist  of  the  Ohio 
Experiment  Station,  and  Mr.  W.  S.  Turner,  assistant, 
the  latter  set  some  lettuce  plants  in  a  box  in  which  a 
tile  was  so  placed  as  to  admit  of  watering  without  wet- 
ting the  foliage.  The  subsequent  development  of  the 
method  is  due  to  the  combined  efforts  of  W.  J.  Green, 
E.  C.  Green  and  W.  S.  Turner. 

The    experiments   were    begun    in    the   winter  of 
1890-91,  but  in  addition  to  some  box  trials  a  bed  seveu 


SOIL,   MANURES  AND  WATERING.  369 

by  ten  feet  was  planted,  and,  giving  satisfactory  results, 
the  work  was  extended  the  next  season,  when  still  better 
results  were  obtained.  Tlie  third  year  nothing  was  done 
by  the  station,  because  of  removal  to  Wooster,  Wayne 
county,  but  the  work  was  carried  on  at  the  university  in 
Columbus,  in  the  houses  first  used  for  the  purpose,  and 
along  the  same  lines,  but  on  a  larger  scale,  under  the 
management  of  Mr.  Turner.  The  fourth  season  the 
experiments  were  extended  and  the  scope  widened, 
under  favorable  circumstances,  in  the  four  new  houses 
built  by  the  station  at  Wooster,  Ohio. 

The  experiments,  although  not  fully  completed 
with  all  classes  of  plants  which  may  be  grown  in  the 
soil  on  greenhouse  benches,  show  that  all  species  do 
not  respond  in  the  same  degree  to  the  treatment,  some 
being  but  slightly  benefited,  while  with  others  the 
crop  is  often  doubled.  It  is  somewhat  unexpected, 
but  no  plants,  not  even  roses,  have  been  injured  by 
the  treatment. 

Thus  far  the  experiments  seem  to  show  that  the 
various  classes  of  plants  which  have  been  tested  are  ben- 
efited by  sub-irrigation  in  about  the  following  order, 
beginning  with  those  which  show  the  greatest  gain  : 
Radishes,  lettuce,  cucumbers,  cauliflower,  beets,  carna- 
tions, violets,  smilax,  roses,  tomatoes.  It  is  quite  prob- 
able that  further  experiments  will  change  the  order, 
but  the  list  is  a  provisional  one  simply,  and  is  given  for 
the  general  guidance  of  those  who  contemplate  making 
a  trial  of  the  method.  Eadishes  have  generally  shown 
more  marked  gains  by  sub-irrigation  than  any  other 
crop,  but  in  some  trials  lettuce  has  taken  the  first  place. 
By  this  method  radishes  grow  quicker,  hence  come  to  a 
marketable  size  earlier  than  by  surface  watering.  It 
usually  happens  that  marketable  radishes  will  be  found 
in  both  the  surface  and  sub-irrigated  beds  at  the  same 
time,  but  the  larger  numl^er  in  the  latter,  and  of  greater 
^4 


SI'O  GllEENHOUSE   MANAGEMENt. 

average    weight.      The    following    trial    with    French 
Breakfast  illustrates  the  above  : 


No.  marketable 
Feb.  23. 

Weight, 
ounces. 

77 
40 

41 

18 

Sub-irrigated, 
Surface  irrigated, 

The  total  number  in  each  bed  was  155,  thus  in  the 
sub-irrigated  bed  about  one-half  were  fit  for  the  market 
at  the  first  gathering,  and  four  days  later  the  remainder 
were  marketable,  whereas  in  the  surface-watered  bed  but 
little  more  than  one-fourth  were  ready  on  the  23d,  and 
three  pullings  instead  of  two  had  to  be  made,  and  the 
average  size  was  less.  The  market  value  of  the  sub-irri- 
gated was  more  than  double  that  of  the  others,  even 
though  earliness  is  not  taken  into  account.  The  chief 
gain  due  to  earlier  maturity,  however,  is  because  of  the 
fact  that  the  beds  may  be  cleared  several  days  sooner, 
which  is  a  matter  worthy  of  consideration. 

Lettuce  is  a  much  more  profitable  crop  than  rad- 
ishes, and  some  of  the  results  with  it  have  been  quite 
equal  to  the  above.  The  following  are  some  of  the 
results  with  the  Grand  Rapids,  taken  at  random  from 
notes  of  recent  experiments : 

Experiment  No.  1. 

No  plants.  Weight. 

Sub-irrigated,  55  17  lbs.  8  oz. 

Surface  irrigated,  55  9  lbs.  8  oz. 

Experiment  No.  3. 

Sub-irrigated,  75  23  lbs.  15  oz. 

Surface  irrigated,  75  18  lbs.    3  oz. 

Experiment  No.  3, 

Sub-irrigated,  50  14  lbs.  12  oz. 

Surface  irrigated,  50  9  lbs.  13  oz. 

Some  cases  can  be  given  where  other  varieties  have 

shown  even  better  results,  and  a  number  in  which  the 

crop  has  been   more  than   doubled,  by  sub-irrigation. 

Fifty  per  cent  is  considered  a  fair  average  gain,  and 


SOIL,    MANUKES   AND   WATERING.  371 

some  cases  have  occurred  where  it  has  been  as  low  as 
twenty.  Several  causes  contribute  to  make  the  results 
vary  so  greatly.  Generally  it  has  been  found  that  the 
gain  by  sub-irrigation  is  less  in  the  early  part  of  the 
winter  than  toward  spring,  owing  largely  to  the  compar- 
ative quantities  of  water  required  at  these  dates. 

The  character  of  the  soil  has  something  to  do  Avith 
the.  results  also.  Surface  watering  compacts  the  soil, 
but  sub-irrigution  does  not,  hence  with  a  naturally  heavy 
soil  it  is  somewhat  difficult  to  give  the  needed  quantity 
of  water  when  applied  to  the  surface,  without  producing 
a  water-logged  condition,  and  there  is  danger  also  of 
inducing  rot,  no  matter  what  the  character  of  the  soil. 
When  the  lettuce  becomes  so  large  as  to  cover  the  sur- 
face of  the  bed,  the  difficulty  of  watering  on  the  surface 
is  much  increased,  hence,  uniform  and  thorough  watering 
at  this  critical  period  requires  much  skill  and  patience. 
Care  has  been  taken  to  give  the  surface-watered  beds  the 
best  of  attention,  but  it  has  not  been  possible  to  water 
them  so  thoroughly  and  well  as  by  sub-irrigation,  since 
by  the  latter  method  the  watering  can  be  done  as  easily 
at  one  period  of  growth  as  another,  and  the  requisite 
quantity  of  water  more  certainly  supplied. 

The  true  explanation  must  await  further  experi- 
ments, but  at  present  the  opinion  may  be  ventured 
that  the  amount  of  water  and  physical  condition  of  the 
soil  have  much  to  do  with  the  results,  and  are  probably 
the  most  important  factors.  An  important  consid- 
eration in  the  case  of  lettuce  is  the  fact  that  there  is 
less  rot  among  the  plants  on  the  sub-irrigated  plots 
than  where  surface  watering  is  practiced.  There  is 
a  difference  in  waste  in  the  way  of  trimmings,  due 
both  to  rot  and  soiled  lower  leaves,  ranging  from  ten 
to  fifteen  per  cent  in  favor  of  the  sub-irrigated.  It 
should  not  be  inferred,  however,  that  rot  will  not  occur 
where  sub-irrigation  is  practiced,  for  it  will  appear  if 


372  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

proper  precautions  are  not  taken  in  keeping  the  h(Aises 
cool  and  in  ventilating  properly. 

There  is  quite  a  marked  difference  in  the  quantity 
of  bloom  and  size  of  flowers  with  carnations  grown  by 
the  two  methods,  but  no  data  can  be  given,  as  the  ex- 
periments are  incomplete.  Since  the  i:»lants  do  not 
shade  the  soil  to  any  extent,  it  soon  becomes  quite  hard 
where  water  is  applied  to  the  surface,  which  necessitates 
frequent  digging.  In  the  sub-irrigated  beds,  however, 
the  soil  does  not  become  compacted,  and  the  surface  re- 
mains loose  and  friable,  in  a  condition  to  be  permeated 
by  the  air,  even  Avithout  digging.  This  physical  effect 
upon  the  soil,  of  sub-irrigation,  makes  quite  a  difference 
in  the  amount  of  work  required  to  care  for  a  given  space 
by  the  two  methods  of  watering.  The  carnation  is  not 
an  extreme  case,  but  is  a  good  example,  as  showing  this 
difference. 

Smilax  and  violets  seem  to  resj)ond  well  to  this 
treatment,  but  comparative  data  cannot  be  given  at 
present.  The  result  of  the  experiment  on  roses  has  been 
lost  because  of  nematodes,  and  it  is  worthy  of  note  that 
this  pest  was  less  destructive  upon  the  sub-irrigated  than 
upon  the  surface-watered  bed. 

In  speaking  of  lettuce,  the  fact  was  referred  to,  that 
less  care  and  skill  are  required  to  water  properly  by  sub- 
irrigation  than  by  the  ordinary  method,  and  it  maybe 
further  stated  that  the  labor  is  less  also.  The  water  is 
applied  quickly  and  it  runs  where  it  is  needed.  The 
gardener  judges  as  to  the  amount  required  by  tlie  con- 
dition of  both  plants  and  soil,  as  by  the  old  methods. 
Contrary  to  what  might  be  inferred,  he  is  less  liable  to 
over-water  by  the  new  than  by  the  old  plan,  for  with  a 
loose,  friable  soil  a  water-logged  condition  is  not  liable 
to  occur.     In  our  experience  it  has  never  happened. 

Do  we  syringe  the  foliage  of  sub-irrigated  plants  ^o 
destroy  the  red  spider,  and  do  we  sprinkle  the  walks  to 


SOIL,   MANURES    AND   WATERING.  373 

supi)ly  moisture  to  the  air  ?  These  questions  are  fre- 
quently asked,  and  seem  to  be  uppermost  in  the  minds 
of  many.  The  answer  to  the  first  is,  yes,  of  those  that 
need  it,  and  to  the  second,  no.  Lettuce,  and  most  veg- 
etables, in  fact,  need  not  be  syringed,  and  never  receive 
water  on  the  foliage,  except  once  at  planting.  Almost 
the  entire  houses  are  watered  by  sub-irrigation,  but 
there  is  enough  moisture  in  the  air  to  keep  the  plants 
in  a  healthy  growing  condition,  derived  from  transpira- 
tion through  the  foliage  and  evaporation  from  the  soil. 
The  necessity  of  supplying  more  moisture  to  the  air  than 
this,  for  the  plants  above  named,  is  not  recognized. 

HOV\r   SUB-IRRIGATION   IS   OPERATED. 

With  plants  that  are  transplanted  one  or  more 
times,  sub-irrigation  is  begun  as  soon  as  the  seed  is 
sown.  Flats  sixteen  by  twenty-four  inches,  and  two 
inches  deep,  with  slatted  bottoms,  are  used  for  seed 
sowing.  As  soon  as  the  seed  is  sown  the  flats  are  placed 
in  a  shallow  vat  containing  an  inch  or  two  of  water,  and 
allowed  to  stand  until  the  moisture  shows  on  top.  They 
are  then  set  in  any  convenient  spot  until  water  is  again 
required,  which  is  not  so  soon  as  when  surface  watering 
is  practiced.  This  method  of  watering  is  followed  until 
the  plants  are  set  in  the  beds,  or  benches.  Probably 
this  method  of  watering  involves  more  labor  than  the 
old  plan,  but  the  j^lants  do  so  much  better  and  it  is  so 
much  more  satisfactory  in  every  way,  that  it  must  be 
counted  as  an  improvement.  Referring  to  experiment 
No.  1,  with  lettuee,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  results  were 
better  than  in  the  other  cases.  The  plants  in  this  ex- 
periment were  carried  through  from  the  beginning  by 
the  two  methods.  The  sub-irrigated  were  watered  in 
that  manner  from  the  time  the  seed  was  sown,  while  the 
surface-watered  were  treated  in  the  old  way  throughout 
the  experiment.     In  the  other  experiments  the  differ- 


374  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

ence  in  treatment  was  begun  when  the  plants  ■were  set 
in  the  benches. 

By  sub-irrigation,  clamping  off  is  reduced,  the  soil 
does  not  harden,  and  less  attention  is  required  than 
when  surface  watering  is  practiced.  It  is  particularly 
recommended  for  the  first  watering  after  the  seed  is 
sown,  to  prevent  washing  of  the  soil  and  baking  of 
the  surface. 

In  the  benches  sub-irrigation  is  accomplished  by 
means  of  two  and  one-half  or  three-inch  drain  tile  laid 
two  feet  apart  on  the  bottom,  either  lengthwise  or  cross- 
wise, and  covered  with  soil  to  the  ordinary  depth.  Gas 
pipe,  with  holes  drilled  at  frequent  intervals,  may  be 
employed,  but  the  cost  is  greater.  Our  best  results 
have  been  obtained  with  tile  laid  on  a  level,  crosswise  of 
the  benches.  Long  runs  of  tile  are  not  always  satisfac- 
tory. If  iron  pipe  is  used  the  holes  should  not  be  more 
than  two  feet  apart,  and  not  larger  than  one-fourth 
inch.  If  long  runs  are  used  the  pipe  must  be  larger 
than  for  short  runs,  and  in  all  cases  the  capacity  of  the 
pipe  must  be  greater  than  the  combined  capacity  of  the 
small  holes.  The  tile  may  be  laid  end  to  end  closely, 
without  cement,  but  ordinarily  a  moi-e  even  flow  is  se- 
cured if  the  joints  are  liglitly  cemented  and  then  broken 
just  before  hardening,  so  as  to  make  cracks  of  uniform 
size. 

The  water  may  be  introduced  by  boring  holes 
through  the  side  boards  of  the  benches,  or  a  T  joint 
used,  or,  what  is  still  better,  a  curved  joint  of  sewer 
pipe  of  same  size  as  the  tile.  When  the  beds  are  to  be 
irrigated,  water  is  introduced  into  the  pipe  or  tile 
quickly,  and  allowed  to  run  full  length,  when  it  soaks 
out  uniformly  through  the  adjacent  soil. 

Sub-irrigation  pre-supposes  a  water-tight  bench 
bottom.  This  may  be  constructed  in  various  ways,  but 
the  cheapest  plan  is  to  use  ordinary  barn  boards,  with 


SOIL,   MAN'URES  AN"D  WATERING.  375 

no  shakes  or  loose  knots.  These  are  laid  so  as  to  nearly 
touch,  and  battened  with  lath,  after  which  a  coating  of 
thin  cement  makes  a  water-tight  bottom.  Matched 
lumber,  laid  in  white  lead,  answers  the  same  purpose, 
bnt  costs  more.  The  best  bottom  is  made  of  tile,  either 
hexagonal,  octagonal  or  flat,  and  covered  with  cement. 
Ordinary  liexagonal  (six-sided)  tile  laid  on  iron  snpj)orts 
makes  a  very  satisfactory  bottom,  and  is  as  cheap  as 
anything  in  the  shape  of  tile.  When  cemented  prop- 
erly, this  makes  a  durable  and  satisfactory  bottom. 
Lumber  may  be  used  for  the  sides,  but  is  not  satisfac- 
tory, as  it  warps  and  springs  away  from  the  tile,  causing 
leakage.  Slate,  seven  or  eight  inches  wide,  is  the  best 
material,  and  this  is  held  in  place  by  galvanized  iron 
strips  at  the  top  and  bottom.  These  strips  are  cut  two 
inches  wide,  and  bent  in  the  form  of  TJ-shaped  troughs. 
The  slate  sets  into  the  bottom  trough,  while  the  upper 
trough  fits  over  the  top  of  the  slate,  holding  them 
together  firmiy.  These  slate  sides  rest  on  the  iron  sup- 
ports to  the  tile,  and  are  fastened  to  the  iron  gas  pipes 
which  support  the  purlins. 

Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  to  construct  a  bench  for 
sub-irrigation  adds  but  little  to  the  cost  over  one  equally 
durable  made  in  the  ordinary  manner  for  surface  water- 
ing. Where  beds  are  on  the  ground,  it  might  be  neces- 
sary, in  some  cases,  to  make  a  water-tight  bottom  with 
cement,  but  not  so  if  the  subsoil  is  sufficiently  retentive. 

In  conclusion,  it  might  not  be  out  of  place  to  answer 
some  theoretical  objections  iirged  against  the  plan  be- 
cause drainage  is  not  provided  for,  and  humidity  of  the 
air  is  not  taken  into  account,  but  it  is  proposed  to  let 
facts  stand  in  the  place  of  arguments,  and  to  place 
the  whole  matter  in  the  hands  of  practical  men  for 
confirmation. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

FUEL — COAL,   WOOD  A]S"D  CEUDE  OIL. 

The  location  and  extent  of  the  establishment  will 
have  much,  to  do  in  determining  what  kind  of  fuel  will 
be  most  satisfactory  and  economical. 

The  use  of  hard  wood,  in  localities  where  it  is  plen- 
tiful and  where  coal  is  dear,  may  be  advisable,  especially 
when  flues  are  used,  or  in  large  establishments  where  a 
night  fireman  is  employed.  For  small  heaters  in  which 
coal  is  used,  the  nut  anthracite  will  be  preferable,  and 
as  the  size  of  the  heater  increases,  a  choice  must  be  made 
between  the  egg  or  pea  sizes,  and  bituminous  coal. 
Most  of  our  modern  heaters  are  made  for  either  hard  or 
soft  coal,  and  the  choice  that  is  made  will  depend  lai'gely 
upon  the  cost  of  each.  In  large  establishments  some 
form  of  bituminous  coal  would  probably  be  used. 

When  situated  near  the  mines,  some  of  the  low- 
priced  grades  of  pea  or  slack  coal  will  make  cheap  fuel, 
but  they  are  not  worth  more  than  two-thirds  as  much  as 
good  lump  coal,  and  as  the  fieight  and  handling  make 
up  the  principal  cost  of  the  former,  when  they  have  to 
be  transported  any  great  distance,  the  latter  will  be  the 
cheapest  fuel. 

CRUDE    OIL  AS  FUEL. 

Various  devices  have  been  invented  for  the  burning 
of  crude  oil  in  greenhouse  heaters.  This  material  can 
only  be  used  when  steam  under  a  moderately  high  pres- 
sure can  be  used  to  vaporize  the  oil.  In  order  to  use  it 
in  a  hot  water  heater,  a  small  steam  boiler  will  also  be 
needed  as  an  auxiliary.  One  of  the  best  of  these  burners 
376 


FUEL. 


377 


(Fig.  128)  is  that  patented  by  James  B.  Moore,  of  Read- 
ing, Pa.,  which  consists  of  an  oil  tube  with  a  tapered 
nozzle,  surrounded  by  a  steam  pipe  also  with  a  tapered 
nozzle.  The  combustion  chamber  is  of  solid  metal  and 
is  placed  in  the  ash  pit,  the  gi'ate  having  been  taken 
out.  The  air  for  combustion  is  admitted  through  oj)en- 
iugs  on  three  sides  of  the  base  of  the  boiler.  The 
burner  is  inserted  through  a  hole  on  the  fourth  side,  and 
is  surrounded  by  a  conical  tube  through  which  the  air 
for  combustion  enters. 

The  oil  tube  is  connected  with  the  oil  tank,  and  the 
steam  pipe  with  the  steam  dome,  and  also  with  an  air 


FIG.  128.     CRUDE  OIL  BURNER. 

pump,  by  which  a  blast  is  supplied  while  getting  up 
steam.  The  steam  pipe  does  not  go  directly  from  the. 
dome  to  the  burner,  but  first  makes  a  circuit  of  the  com- 
bustion chamber,  and  the  steam  is  there  superheated. 
In  passing  through  the  tube  to  the  nozzle,  the  oil,  being 
surrounded  by  the  superheated  steam,  is  considerably 
heated,  and  flowing  through  the  spiral  grooves  in  the 


378  GREENHOUSE  MANAGEMENT. 

valve  escapes  from  the  nozzle,  but  is  at  once  vaporized 
by  and  mixed  with  the  steam.  It  is  thus  carried  into 
the  combustion  chamber,  and  may  be  scattered  by  a 
daflector.  While  a  pressure  of  steam  of  from  ten  to  fif- 
teen pounds  is  desirable,  the  burner  Avill  give  a  perfect 
combustion  of  fuel  with  eight  ])ounds,  and  even  less. 

In  the  past  many  persons  have  been  prejudiced 
against  the  use  of  crude  oil  as  fuel,  on  account  of  the 
offensive  odor  given  off  when  it  is  handled,  and  from 
the  many  fires  and  explosions  that  have  occurred  from 
its  use.  Crude  oil  cannot  be  used  to  advantage  unless  a 
pipe  can  be  run  from  the  greenhouse  to  a  large  iron  tank 
in  which  the  oil  is  stored.  This  tank  must  be  several 
hundred  feet  from  any  building,  and  so  situated  that  it 
can  be  readily  connected  with  a  tank  car  on  a  side  track. 
In  this  way  there  will  be  but  little  odor.  The  oil,  by 
opening  a  valve,  will  run  down  hill  to  the  greenhouse, 
and  if  the  joints  are  all  tight  there  will  be  no  danger 
from  explosions.  The  burners  will  require  but  little 
attention,  there  is  no  stoking  to  be  done,  no  ashes  to 
be  carried  out,  and  there  will  be  no  dirt  and  smoke  to 
annoy  one. 

About  one  hundred  gallons  of  oil  will  be  equal  to  a 
ton  of  Anthracite,  jiea  coal,  and  making  allowance  for 
the  extra  labor  required  when  coal  is  burned,  it  is  gen- 
erally  estimated  that  with  oil  at  11.25  per  barrel,  it  will 
be  as  cheap  as  soft  coal  at  11.80  per  ton,  and  although 
the  relative  price  may  vary,  the  usual  opinion  is  that 
with  a  good  burner  the  oil  is  about  twenty-five  per  cent 
cheaper  than  steam  lump  coal. 

GAS  AND   GASOLINE. 

Natural  gas  has  been  used  with  good  results,  but  it 
cannot  always  be  relied  upon,  and  the  supply  is  even 
now  giving  out  in  some  places,  while  the  limited  terri- 
tory in  which  it  is  found  precludes  its  general  use. 


Water  gas  is  found  in  many  places  to  be  an  econom- 
ical heating  material.  It  costs  only  abont  twenty-five 
cents  per  thousand  feet,  and  at  that  price  is  less  than 
one-half  as  expensive  as  coal,  and  is  regarded  by  many 
as  cheaper  than  natural  gas  at  current  prices.  While  it 
may  come  into  general  use  in  cities,  few  florists  are  so 
situated  that  they  can  obtain  it  except  at  a  considerable 
expense  for  the  laying  of  mains,  and  it  has  not  as  yet 
been  thoroughly  tested  for  greenhouse  heating.  Gaso- 
line can  be  readily  handled,  and  florists  are  now  looking 
to  it  as  a  valuable  source  of  fuel.  When  a  burner 
adapted  for  its  use  has  been  invented,  it  may  revolution- 
ize our  present  heating  plants. 


INDEX. 


Page 

Achyranthes,  varieties  of 276 

Aleyrodes(w)iite  flies) 311 

Alocasias 180 

Alternaiitlieia,  pi-opagalion  of,  276 

Andromeda,  forcing  of 141 

Antliracnose  of  tlie  bean ;*19 

of  carnat ions 332 

of  the  rose 328 

of  violets 341 

AntliiirinniR,  prouagation  and 

care  of *      177 

Aphis,  tlie  male  and  female  ...  309 

Aquariums 272 

Aralias 166 

Araiicarias —  166 

Ardisias 138 

Arsenites 351 

Asparagus  as  a  florist's  green  . .  158 

winter  forcing  of 226 

Aspidistras,  propagation   and 

uses  of 168 

Azaleas,  jiotting  and  care  of...  131 

Hacteriosis  of  carnations 337 

Hean,  antliracnose  of  tlie 349 

Beans,  the  forcing  of 2.32 

Bedding  plants,  the  growing  of,  274 

Beets  for  forcing 232 

Begonias,  tuberous,  care  of 103 

Bermuda  lilv  <lisease 343 

Black  spot  of  the  rose 324 

Bordeaux  mixture  as  a  fungi- 
cide    3.'i7 

Budding,  propagation  by 305 

Bugs,  plant,  and  remedies  for 

them 310 

Bulbs  and  their  culture 88 

for  the  lawn 279 

Cacti,  care  of 284 

Caladium    esculentnm,    treat- 
ment of 279 

fancy 113 

Calatlieas  174 

Calceolaria?,     growing    the 

plants 143 

Call  as,  how  to  grow 98 

Cannas  as  greenhouse  olants..  108 
propagation  and  care  of —  280 

varieties  of 109 

Care  of  and  soil  for  house  plants  2.'>9 
Carnation  ' 
rust . . . 


Carnations,  care  of  the  house 

for 48 

disbudding 46 

diseases  of 328 

growing  plants  in  houses...    34 

history  of 26 

in  beds  and  benches 36 

planting  out  and   cultiva- 
tion      31 

planting  the  houses 37 

potting  ofE 29 

propagation  of 27 

soilfor 30 

staking  and  trellising 40 

topdressing  and  manuring,    48 

varieties  of 49 

watering  and  ventilating..     39 

Carrots,  the  forcing  of 232 

Caulilluwer,  forcing  of 228 

Cereus,  night  blooming,  varie- 
ties of 285 

Chemical    manures  and   their 

effects 365 

Chrysanthemums 60 

care  of  the  plants 57 

diseases  of 345 

fleld  culture 69 

growing  for  cut  flowers 57 

history  of 54 

insects  and  diseases 76 

lionid  manure  for 70 

propagation  by  cuttings  ...    56 

proiirigation  bv  seeds 55 

single  stem  plants  in  pots,    66 

specimen  jihmts 67 

Slaking  the  pot  plants 70 

standards 6t^ 

taking  the  buds   and    dis- 
budding     63 

varieties  and  their  classi- 
ficjition 70 

Cinerarias,    jiropagation     and 

care  of  1'6 

Coal,  hard  and  soft  as  fuel 370 

Ooleus,  propagation  and  care 

of  270 

Copper  carbonate  and  its  use..  .3.57 
comi>ounds  as  fungicides. .  358 

Cordylines,    propagation    avid 

care  of 108 

Crocuses,  care  of 93 


380 


INDEX. 


381 


Crotons 170 

Crude  oil  a.s  fuel 376 

Cucumber  and  melon,  diseases 

of  348 

as  a  winter  crop 198 

forforeiiigr,  vaiielies  of...,  205 

planting;  and  training, 201 

pollination  of 203 

Cupram,  iis    preparation    and 

use 357 

Cutting  bed,  the 295 

bed  fungus 350 

Cuttings,  propagation  by 291 

Cyjinopliyllunis 173 

Cyclamen,  planting  and  care 

of  100 

Cytisus 136 

Dahlias,  propagation  and  care,  281 

Dampi II g  off . . .'. 350 

Dleffen  bachias,  prop  a  g  a  t  i  o  ii 

and  care  of 177 

Diseases  and  insects  of  house 

plants 263 

of  the  carnation 328 

of  tlie  rose 324 

Of  violets 338 

Dracaenas,     propagation      and 

care  of 168 

Easter  lilies,  planting  and  care 

of  95 

Eel  worms 317 

on  violets 342 

Electro  culture  of  lettuce 194 

Eulalias,  propagation  and  care 

of 283 

Extrnct  of  tobacco 354 

Eye  cuttings 297 

Fairy  ring  spot  of  carnations..  334 
Ferns,  propagation  and  care  of,  153 

vnrieiies  of 154 

Fertilizers,  clieniical 362 

Flock  in  mushrooms 319 

Flowering  plants  for  bedding.  277 
Foliage  plants,  the  growing  of,  274 

Freesias,  cave  of   ...     95 

Fruit  trees  tinder  glass 253 

Fuel — coal,  wood  and  oil 376 

Fumigation  with  hydrocyanic 

acid  gas  320 

Fungicides,  their  preparation 

and  use    356 

Fiincous  diseases  of  plants 324 

OardeniMs 1.39 

Gas  and  gasoline  as  fuel 378 

Ghidiolus,  forcinerof 101 

Grafting,  propagation  by 301 

wax,  preparat  \ou  of 305 

Grape  growing  in  pots 246 

growing  under  glass 2.34 

Grapes,  care  of  vines  in  winter,  245 
dislnnldiiia  and  thinnirg...  241 

keeping  the  fruit 241 

propagating  the  plants 245 

temperature    and    ventila- 
tion   243 

the  border  for 2.34 

the  forcing  of 244 


Page 
Grapes,  training  and  pruning..  239 

under  glass,  care  of 237 

varieties  for  forcing 236 

watering  an<l  syringing....  242 

Gloxinias,  growing  of 109 

Grasses,  hardy  oiii.-iniental 283 

Gioniid   I'oiie  "ms  a  fertilizer 362 

Glowing  bediliigiihints 274 

Hulf-liard  cutting 299 

Hanging  Imskets 271 

Hard  ciittii  gs 298 

Hardy  plants,  forcing  ot 140 

Hotbeds  for  lettuce 195 

Hot  w  ater  !is  an  insect  icide 355 

House  plants,  ni;iiiaj.'cnient  of,  258 

plants,  ?eleclion  of 265 

Hyjicinth,  tbe  Roman 90 

Hyacinths,    Dutch    and    their 

cine 91 

pliuiting  and  care  of 88 

water  culture  of 92 

Hydrangeas,    growing    in    the 

greenhouse 133 

Hyflrocyjinic  acid  gas,  fumiga- 
tion witli 320 

Insecticides,  their  preparation 

and  use 351 

Insects  iiiid  diseases  of  house 

plants 263 

of  the  preenhouse 308 

Intermediate  oicliids 121 

J:idoo  fiber  and  lionid 367 

^alniia,  loicingol*. 141 

Kerosene  emulsion 352 

Kinney  pump,  the 366 

Layering,  propagation  by 300 

Leaf  cuttings 300 

mold  of  camations 336 

spot  of  carnations 331 

spot  of  violets 338 

Lettnce,c,omn)ercial  growingof  186 

diseases  of 347 

ele<-tro  culture  of 194 

forcing  of  in  greenhouses..  182 
growing,   iirejjaration    and 

care  of  beds 189 

houses  for 184 

in  hotbeds 195 

piickint;  for  market 192 

pot  culture  of 188 

varieties  of 184 

Lilacs,  forcing  of 141 

I^iiies,  i)lanting  iind  care  of 95 

Lily    of    the    v:illey,    planting 

and  care  of ...      96 

Liquid  manure  and  its  prepa- 
ration   365 

Liver  of  sulphur 357 

Lung  cuttings 299 

Manures,  soil  and  watering 360 

Marantiis 174 

Mealy  bugs 315 

Melons,  forcing  of 211 

Mignonette,  disease  of 346 

forcing  of 149 

Mildew  of  the  cucumber 348 

Mushroom,  the  new 223 


382 


GUEEXHOUSE  JVJAXAGEMENT. 


Pase 

Mushrooms,  beds,  care  of 220 

beds,  spawning  of 220 

bails,  watering  of 221 

enemies  and  diseases 318 

liouse,  a  cheap 224 

Mushrooms,   culture    of    in 

greenhouses 211 

patliering  the  crop 221 

making  tlie  beds 216 

preparation  of  material  for 

beds  213 

spawn  for 217 

Narcissus,  planting  and  care  of    88 

Nepenthes 175 

Oil  as  fuel 376 

Orchids,  care  during  growth...  128 

cool  house 121 

cidtmeof 116 

diseases  and  insects 130 

for  beginners 119 

for  intermediate  houses 121 

management    while    in 

bloom 129 

the  potting  of 121 

the  watering  of 127 

treatment  wliile  resting —  128 

varieties  of 120 

Ornamental  grasses 283 

•Oxalis,  the  cultivation  of 99 

Palms,  propagation  and  care  of  162 

varieties  of 164 

Panda n us,  how  to  grow 1G5 

Peach  culture  under  glass 254 

I'ear  culture  under  glass 254 

I'edigree  plants 292 

Plant  bugs  and  remedies  for 

them 310 

Plants  for  the  house 207 

Plum  cultuie  under  jrlass 254 

I'otash  salts  as  fertilizers 364 

Potting  and  repotting  of  house 

plants 261 

I'owdery  mildew  of  the  rose. ..  325 
Primulas,  single  and  double...  148 
Propagation  by  layering,  graft- 
ing and  budding 300 

by  seeds  and  cuttings 287 

of  plants 287 

Pyrethrnm    353 

Radishes,  forcing 230 

Red  spider 312 

Rhubarb,  winter  growing  of. ..  228 

Rootcuttiners 297 

galls  of  the  violet 342 

Rose  beetle  (Fuller's) 311 

rust 326 

Roses,  d  iseases  of 324 

forcing  liybrid  perpetual. . .    21 
liqui'l   manures   and   ferti- 
lizers      10 

planting  the  houses 7 

in  pots  and  boxes 24 

potting  and  care  of  plants .      4 


Page 
Roses,  propagating  the  plants.      1 

soil  for 4 

solid  beds  vs.  raised  bench- 
es       6 

staking  and  trellising 20 

the  forcing  of 1 

varieties  for  forcing 13 

watering  and  ventilating..      8 

Rotot  carnations 336 

of  letttice 347 

Rubber  trees 172 

Sinid  lor  I  he  cutting  bed 361 

S.iucci-  i.inpa^ation 296 

Scale  iiisicis  and  lemedies....  314 

Sf.-ds,  iiicipagatiou  by 287 

Slutis,  snails  and  sowbngs 316 

Sniilax,  iiluntingand  care  of..  157 

Soft  cultinus 293 

Soil  for  ami  care  of  house  plants  259 

manures  and  watering 360 

SphEEiogynes 173 

Spiraeas,  forcing  of 141 

Spot  of  carnations 331 

Strawberries,   forcing   under 

glass 248 

pottineand  care 249 

varieties  for  forcing 252 

Sub-irrigation  in   the   green- 
house   368 

Succulents,    propagation    and 

care  of 2&1 

Sulphur   as    a   fungicide    and 

insecticide 356 

Sweet  peas,  cultivation  of 277 

Temperature  for  house  plants.  264 

Thrips  in  the  greenhouse 313 

Tobacco  as  an  insecticide 3.53 

Tomatoes,  forcine:  of 205 

training  and  pruning  208 

varieties  for  forcing 209 

Topdressinsz  house  plants 262 

Tuberose,  jilanting  and  care. ..    98 

Tiihorons  beuonias,  care  of 103 

Tulips,  planting  and  care  of...     88 

varieties  of 93 

Violets,  diseases  of 338 

growingplants  in  the  house    85 

houses  for —     78 

propagation  of 82 

varieties,  securing  new 290 

soil  and  jilanting  out 83 

varieties  of 86 

ventilation  and  care  of  the 

house 84 

Wardiati  cases 273 

Water  and  liquid  manure  for 

house  plants 262 

Watering,  manures  and  soil ...  360 

yilants 367 

White  arsenic  as  a  fungicide..  359 

Window  boxes 269 

Window  gardening 258 


flDPERTr 


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nature  of  the  hemp  plant.  The  various  chapters  are  devoted 
to  the  soil  and  climate  adapted  to  the  culture  of  hemp  for 
seed  and  for  fiber,  irrigating,  harvesting,  retting  and  machin- 
ery for  handling  hemp.  Illustrated.  112  pages.  5x7  inches. 
Cloth $0.50 

Alfalfa. 

By  F.  D.  CoBURN.  Its  growth,  uses  and  feeding  value. 
The  fact  that  alfalfa  thrives  in  almost  any  soil;  that  without 
reseeding,  it  goes  on  yielding  two,  three,  four  and  sometimes 
five  cuttings  annually  for  five,  ten,  or  perhaps  loo  years ;  and 
that  either  green  or  cured  it  is  one  of  the  most  nutritious 
forage  plants  known,  makes  reliable  information  upon  its  pro- 
duction and  uses  of  unusual  interest.  Such  information  is 
given  in  this  volume  for  every  part  of  America,  by  the  highest 
authority.    Illustrated.    164  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.      $0.50 

Talks  on  Manure. 

By  Joseph  Harris,  M.  S.  A  series  of  familiar  and 
practical  talks  between  the  author  and  the  deacon,  the  doctor, 
and  other  neighbors,  on  the  whole  subject  of  manures  and 
fertilizers;  including  a  chapter  especially  written  for  it 
by  Sir  John  Bennet  Lawes  of  Rothamsted,  England.  366 
pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.        .        .        .        *        •       $i'50 


STANDARD    BOcKS. 

Practical  Forestry. 

By  Andrew  S.  Fuller.  A  treatise  on  the  propagation, 
planting  and  cultivation,  with  descriptions  and  the  botanical 
and  popular  names  of  all  the  indigenous  trees  of  the  United 
States,  and  notes  on  a  large  number  of  the  most  valuable 
exotic  species.  Illustrated.  300  pages,  5x7  inches. 
Cloth $1.50 

Irrigation  for  the  Farm,  Garden  and  Orchard. 

By  Henry  Stewart.  This  work  is  offered  to  those 
American  farmers  and  other  cultivators  of  the  soil  who,  from 
painful  experience,  can  readily  appreciate  the  losses  which 
result  from  the  scarcity  of  water  at  critical  periods.  Fully 
illustrated.     276  pages,     ^xy  inches.     Cloth.       .         .        $1.00 

Irrigation  Farming. 

By  Lute  Wilcox.  A  handbook  for  the  practical  applica- 
tion of  water  in  the  production  of  crops.  A  complete  treatise 
on  water  supply,  canal  construction,  reservoirs  and  ponds, 
pipes  for  irrigation  purposes,  flumes  and  their  structure, 
methods  of  applying  water,  irrigation  of  field  crops,  the 
garden,  the  orchard  and  vineyard,  windmills  and  pumps, 
appliances  and  contrivances.  New  edition,  revised,  enlarged 
and  rewritten.  Prc/^usely  illustrated.  Over  500  pages.  5x7 
inches.      Cloth. $2.00 

Ginseng,  Its   Cultivation,  Harvesting,   Marketing  and 
Market  Value. 

By  Maurice  G.  Kains,  with  a  short  account  of  its  history 
dnd  botany.  It  discusses  in  a  practical  way  how  to  begin  with 
either  seed  or  roots,  soil,  climate  and  location,  preparation, 
planting  and  maintenance  of  the  beds,  artificial  propagation, 
manures,  enemies,  selection  for  market  and  for  improvement, 
preparation  for  sale,  and  the  profits  that  may  be  expected. 
This  booklet  is  concisely  written,  well  and  profusely  illus- 
trated, and  should  be  in  the  hands  of  all  who  expect  to  grow 
this  drug  to  supply  the  export  trade,  and  to  add  a  new  and 
profitable  industry  to  their  farms  and  gardens,  without  inter- 
fering with  the  regular  work.  New  edition.  Revised  and  en- 
larged.    Illustrated.    5x7  inches.     Cloth.     .         .         .        $0.50 

Truck  Farming  at  the  South. 

By  A.  Oemler.  A  work  giving  the  experience  of  a  suc- 
cessful grower  of  vegetables  or  "garden  truck"  for  northern 
niarkets.  Essential  to  anyone  who  contemplates  entering  this 
profitable  field  of  agriculture.     Illustrated.      274  pages.     5x7 

inches.     Cloth. $1.00 

4 


STANDARD    BOOK'S. 

Henderson's  Practical  Floriculture. 

By  Peter  Henderson.  A  guide  to  the  successful  propa^- 
tion  and  cultivation  of  ilorists'  plants.  The  work  is  not  one 
for  florists  and  gardeners  only,  but  the  amateur's  wants  are 
constantly  kept  in  mind,  and  we  have  a  very  complete  treatise 
on  the  cultivation  of  flowers  under  glass,  or  in  the  open  air, 
suited  to  those  who  grow  flowers  for  pleasure  as  well  as  those 
who  make  them  a  matter  of  trade.  New  and  enlarged  edition. 
Beautifully  illustrated.     325  pages.     5x7  inches.     Cloth.     $1.50 

MiisJirooins.    Hozv  to  Grozv  Tlicm. 

By  William  Falconer.  This  is  the  most  practical  work 
on  the  subject  ever  written,  and  the  only  book  on  growing 
mushrooms  published  in  Amert-:a.  The  author  describes  how 
he  grows  mushrooms,  and  how  they  are  grown  for  profit  by 
the  leading  market  gardeners,  and  for  home  use  by  the  most 
successful  private  growers.  Engravings  drawn  from  nature 
expressly  for  this  work.    170  pages.    5x7  inches.    Cloth.    $1.00 

Play  and  Profit  in  My  Garden. 

By  E.  P.  Roe.  The  author  takes  us  to  his  garden  on  the 
rocky  hillsides  in  the  vicinity  of  West  Point,  and  shows  us 
how  out  of  it,  after  four  years'  experience,  he  evoked  a  profit 
of  $1000,  and  this  while  carrying  on  pastoral  and  literary 
labor.  It  is  very  rarely  that  so  mi;ch  literary  tastt  and  .skill 
are  mated  to  so  much  agricultural  experience  and  good  sense. 
Illustrated.    350  pages.    5x7  inches.     Cloth.  $I-.X 

Fumigation  Methods. 

By  Willis  G.  Johnson.  A  timely  up-to-date  book  on 
the  practical  application  of  the  new  methods  for  destroymg 
insects  with  hydrocyanic  acid  gas  and  carbon  bisulphid,  the 
most  powerful  insecticides  ever  discovered.  It  is  an  indispen- 
sable book  for  farmers,  fruit  growers,  nurserymen,  gardeners 
florists,  millers,  grain  dealers,  transportation  companies,  col- 
lege and  experiment  station  workers,  etc.  Illustrated.  313 
pages.    5x7  inches.     Cloth $i.oc 

Fungi  and  Fungicides. 

By  Prof.  Clarence  M.  Weed.  A  practical  manual  con 
cerning  the  fungous  diseases  of  cultivated  plants  and  the 
means  of  preventing  their  ravages.  The  author  has  endeav- 
ored to  give  such  a  concise  account  of  the  most  important 
facts  relating  to  these  as  will  enable  the  cultivator  to  combat 
them  intelligently.  90  illustrations.  222  pages.  5x7  inches. 
Paper,  50  cents;  cloth        ....,,        $i.qo 


STANDARD    BOOKS. 

Insects  and  Insecticides. 

By  Clarence  M.  Weed,  D.  Sc,  professor  of  entomology 
and  zoology,  New  Hampshire  college  of  agriculture.  A  practi- 
cal manual  concerning  noxious  insects,  and  methods  of 
preventing  their  injuries.  Many  illustrations.  334  pages. 
5x7    inches.      Cloth $1.50 

Hozv  Crops  Grozv. 

By  Prof.  Samuel  W.  Johnson  of  Yale  college.  New  and 
revised  edition.  A  treatise  on  the  chemical  composition, 
structure  and  life  of  the  plant.  This  book  is  a  guide  to  the 
knowledge  of  agricultural  plants,  their  composition,  their 
structure  and  modes  of  development  and  growth ;  of  the  com- 
plex organization  of  plants,  and  the  use  of  the  parts ;  the 
germination  of  seeds,  and  the  food  of  plants  obtained  both 
from  the  air  and  the  soil.  The  book  is  indispensable  to  ail 
real  students  of  agriculture.  Wilh  numerous  illustrations  and 
tables   of   analysis.     416    pages.    5x7    inches.     Cloth.        $1.50 

Tobacco  Leaf. 

By  J.  B.  Killebrew  and  He-^dert  IMyrick.  Its  Culture 
and  Cure,  IMarketing  and  Manufacture.  A  practical  handbook 
on  the  most  approved  methods  in  growing,  harvesting,  curing, 
packing  and  selling  tobacco,  with  an  account  of  the  opera- 
tions in  every  department  of  tobacco  manufacture.  The 
contents  of  this  book  are  based  on  actual  experiments  in  field, 
curing  barn,  packing  house,  factory  and  laboratory.  It  is  the 
only  work  of  the  kind  in  existence,  and  is  destined  to  be  the 
standard  practical  and  scientific  authority  on  the  whole  subject 
of  tobacco  for  many  years.  506  pages  and  150  original  en- 
gravings.   5x7  inches.    Cloth.     .....        $2.00 

Cohurn's  Szvine  Husbandry. 

By  F.  D.  CoBURN.  New,  revised  and  enlarged  edition. 
The  breeding,  rearing  and  management  of  swine,  and  the 
prevention  and  treatment  of  their  diseases.  It  is  the  fullest 
and  freshest  compendium  relating  to  swine  breeding  yet 
offered.     Illustrated.    312  pages.     5x7  inches.     Cloth.        $1.50 

Home  Pork  Making. 

The  art  of  raising  and  curing  pork  on  the  farm.  By 
A.  W.  Fulton.  A  complete  guide  for  the  farmer,  the  country 
butcher  and  the  suburban  dweller,  in  all  that  pertains  to  hog 
slaughtering,  curing,  preserving  and  storing  pork  product — 
from  scalding  vat  to  kitchen  table  and  dining  room.  Illus- 
trated. 125  pages.  5x7  inches.  Cloth.  .  •  .  $o-50 
6 


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